Below is a beginner‑friendly, detailed guide to diagnosing and repairing the drivetrain components you’ll encounter when working on a Renault F9Q‑series diesel (F9Q1 / F9Q2) installations (used in Renault and some Mitsubishi applications). I’ll cover theory, each component’s purpose, what commonly fails, tools and safety, step‑by‑step repair flow for a typical manual‑transmission clutch/gearbox/driveshaft job, checks and measurements, and reassembly/testing tips. Read safety and factory‑spec notes carefully before you start.

Quick theory — what the drivetrain does and why repairs are needed
- The drivetrain transfers engine torque to the wheels and controls torque delivery:
- Engine produces rotating power at the crank.
- Flywheel evens out pulses and provides a friction surface for the clutch.
- Clutch (disc + pressure plate + release mechanism) connects or disconnects the engine from the gearbox so you can change gears.
- Gearbox/transmission converts engine speed/torque to wheel speed/torque through gearsets.
- Driveshafts / CV axles transfer torque from the gearbox/differential to the wheels while allowing suspension movement and steering.
- Differential allows wheels to rotate at different speeds in a turn.
- Why repairs are needed:
- Wear (friction materials, bearings, seals) over time.
- Contamination (oil on clutch discs) reduces friction.
- Heat warping (flywheel or pressure plate) causes vibration/noise.
- Hydraulics can leak or lose pressure (clutch master/slave cylinders).
- CV joints and seals fail due to boot tears and loss of grease.
- Analogy: Think of the drivetrain like a bicycle system — the engine is your legs, the flywheel is a heavy pedal wheel that smooths motion, the clutch is the hand braking the wheel to let you change gears, the gearbox is the bicycle gears, and the driveshafts are the chain/link that moves the wheel.

Major components — what they are and how each works
(Explain every component you’ll see during a clutch/gearbox/driveshaft job)

- Flywheel
- What it is: bolted to the engine crank. On some engines it’s a single‑mass flywheel (solid). Some modern diesels use a dual‑mass flywheel (DMF) to dampen vibration.
- Function: stores rotational energy, smooths crank pulses, provides a friction surface for the clutch disc.
- Failure modes: scored or glazed friction surface, excessive axial or radial play (DMF wear), cracks, oil contamination.

- Clutch disc (friction plate)
- What it is: splined to the gearbox input shaft, contains friction material and usually springs to damp driveline shock.
- Function: squeezes between flywheel and pressure plate to transmit engine torque.
- Failure: worn friction material, broken springs, oil contamination.

- Pressure plate
- What it is: bolted to the flywheel, contains the diaphragm/springs that clamp the disc.
- Function: generates clamping force to engage the clutch disc.
- Failure: weak/warped plate causes slipping or chatter.

- Release (throw‑out) bearing and clutch fork
- What it is: bearing slides on input shaft to push the pressure plate release fingers; fork/actuator moves the bearing.
- Function: transfers pedal input to the pressure plate.
- Failure: noisy or seized bearing causes noise, rough disengagement; fork wear leads to misalignment.

- Pilot bearing / bushing
- What it is: supports the input shaft inside the crankshaft/flywheel center bore.
- Function: centers the input shaft.
- Failure: wear causes misalignment, vibration.

- Clutch hydraulics (master and slave cylinder) — if fitted
- What it is: master converts pedal push to hydraulic pressure, slave applies force to the fork/release bearing.
- Function: operate the release mechanism.
- Failure: leaks, spongy pedal, insufficient release.

- Gearbox (manual transmission)
- What it is: case with input/output shafts, gears, synchronizers, bearings.
- Function: select gear ratios and transmit torque to the output shaft/differential.
- Failure: broken synchros (grinding), worn bearings (howling/whine), gear tooth damage, leaks.

- Bellhousing
- What it is: covers region where gearbox mates to engine, contains input shaft and sometimes starter engagement area.
- Function: mounting location and alignment.

- Driveshafts / CV joints / constant‑velocity boots
- What it is: axles that carry torque from gearbox/differential to hubs; CV joints allow for articulation.
- Function: transmit torque while allowing steering and suspension movement.
- Failure: torn boots → grease loss → CV joint wear → clicking on turns; shaft imbalance → vibration.

- Differential (if separate)
- What it is: gearset that allows wheels to rotate at different speeds.
- Failure: wear/metalflake in fluid, whining noise, limited slip clutch wear.

- Engine/transmission mounts
- What it is: rubber/metal mounts that locate and damp the powertrain.
- Failure: broken mounts cause vibration, misalignment that harms joints and fasteners.

Tools and parts you’ll need (minimum)
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets and wrenches, breaker bar, ratchet, extensions.
- Torque wrench (essential).
- Transmission jack or sturdy floor jack + gearbox support.
- Floor jack + jack stands (rated) or lift — DO NOT rely on a jack alone.
- Clutch alignment tool (plastic/metal spigot to center disc).
- Pry bars, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Flywheel ring gear locking tool or a helper to hold crank (or engage parking pawl safely).
- Drain pan for fluids.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner, rags, gloves, safety glasses.
- New parts: clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing), pilot bearing if separate, flywheel resurfacing or replacement (or DMF replacement if worn), gearbox seal(s) if leaking, new gearbox fluid, axle nuts, possibly CV axles if bad, hydraulic lines or cylinders if leaking.
- Threadlocker (medium strength like blue), anti‑seize for some bolts per manufacturer’s guidance.
- Service manual for exact torque specs, sequence, fluid types.

Safety first
- Work on a flat level surface. Use jack stands; never crawl under a car supported only by a jack.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before major disassembly.
- Support the engine before removing the gearbox (engine support bar or additional jack).
- Mark mating surfaces and connectors for accurate reassembly.
- Keep hands and clothing clear of pinch points, and watch for heavy components (gearbox can be 50–100+ lbs).

Diagnostic checklist — how to know what needs repair
- Symptoms and likely causes:
- Slipping clutch (engine revs up without acceleration): worn clutch disc, weak pressure plate, oil on disc.
- Clutch chatter/judder on engagement: warped flywheel, contaminated disc, loose bolts, damaged engine mounts.
- Hard to engage gears or grinding when shifting: clutch not fully disengaging (hydraulic issue, maladjustment), worn synchros, bent linkage.
- Clutch pedal spongy or low: air in hydraulic system or leaking master/slave.
- Clicking on turns: worn CV joint or torn boot.
- Vibration under acceleration: imbalanced driveshaft, worn splines, failing engine mount, warped flywheel.
- Growling/whine from gearbox: worn bearings or differential gears.
- Oil leak near bellhousing/input shaft area: gearbox input shaft seal leaking; oil on clutch = cause of clutch slippage.

Measurements & checks to perform before disassembly
- Check for oil on clutch or flywheel by inspecting bellhousing area (remove starter if necessary for access).
- Check clutch pedal free play — some play is necessary; completely solid or very loose indicates linkage/hydraulic problems.
- Spin CV axles manually (with wheel off) and check boot condition and play in joints.
- Test drive and note RPMs where slipping occurs, noises and whether they correlate with engine rpm or vehicle speed.

Step‑by‑step repair flow (manual transmission clutch/gearbox removal and replacement)
This is a generic flow. Exact bolt counts, locations, and torque specs vary by vehicle — consult the factory service manual for F9Q variants and your specific car.

1) Preparation and safety
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Raise vehicle, support on jack stands, remove road wheels on work side(s).
- Place a drain pan under transmission and engine bay where needed.

2) Remove obstacles and ancillary parts
- Remove intake ducting, airbox, battery tray, any ECU or wiring harnesses in the way.
- Remove starter motor to access bellhousing bolts and to make flywheel/clutch accessible.
- On some cars remove subframe or lower engine mount if it blocks gearbox removal (some cars require subframe drop).
- Label and disconnect wiring, sensors, and harness clips on transmission.

3) Drain transmission fluid (where applicable)
- Drain gearbox oil into pan; keep drain plug and magnet debris checked.

4) Disconnect driveshafts / CV axles
- Remove axle nut, disconnect lower ball joint or hub as needed to free driveshafts from hub.
- Slide shafts out from the gearbox — be prepared for some gearbox oil leakage.
- Support the shafts so they don’t drop and damage CV joints or hubs.

5) Disconnect clutch hydraulics and shift linkage
- Disconnect slave cylinder (or release the hydraulic line) from the bellhousing — tie it up so it doesn’t hang on the line; don’t depress pistons.
- Detach shift linkage or cables.
- Remove gearbox earth straps and mounts.

6) Support engine and gearbox
- Place a transmission jack under the gearbox and also support the engine (engine support or jack under oil pan with block of wood) so engine won’t tilt when bellhousing bolts are removed.

7) Remove bellhousing bolts and separate gearbox
- Remove all bellhousing bolts (often many around periphery). Have someone hold the gearbox or ensure the gearbox jack supports all weight.
- Carefully slide the gearbox rearward enough for the input shaft to clear the clutch disc splines. You may need to rotate slightly to disengage.
- Lower the gearbox on the jack and move it out of the work area.

8) Inspect clutch and flywheel
- Remove pressure plate bolts in a star pattern slowly to avoid warping.
- Pull clutch disc and pressure plate off. Inspect disc thickness, spring condition, surface of flywheel and pressure plate.
- Inspect for oil contamination, heat spots (bluing), and scoring.
- Inspect release bearing and pivot points, fork condition, pilot bearing/bushing.

9) Decide flywheel action
- If flywheel only slightly worn: resurface (machine) if within thickness spec; check runout and replace if out of spec.
- If DMF: inspect for excessive axial/radial play and noise — DMFs are not resurfaced; replace if suspect.
- If oil contamination from crankshaft or camshaft seal: fix the leak (rear main seal) and address crankcase venting.

10) Replace clutch components
- Replace clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing as a kit. Replace pilot bearing/bushing if worn.
- Use alignment tool to center the clutch disc on the flywheel.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts incrementally in a star pattern. Torque to factory specification (consult manual). If you don’t have the manual, tighten gradually and evenly; do not over‑torque.

11) Reinstall gearbox
- Check input shaft splines and lightly grease splines if recommended by manual (don’t over‑grease disc surface).
- Support gearbox on jack, align input shaft with clutch disc and slide forward; you may need to slightly turn the input shaft for spline engagement.
- Seat gearbox fully to the engine block and install bellhousing bolts. Torque bolts to spec in sequence.
- Reattach starter, slave/master cylinder lines (bleed hydraulic system), shift linkage, electrical connectors.

12) Reinstall driveshafts and other components
- Refit CV axles, torque axle nuts to spec, reattach hub components, reassemble any suspension or subframe parts removed.
- Refill gearbox with correct type/quantity of oil, check for leaks.

13) Bleed and adjust clutch hydraulics
- Bleed the clutch system until pedal is firm and no air remains. Check pedal free play and adjust if applicable.

14) Final checks & test drive
- Check fluid levels, check for leaks (gearbox, hydraulics, rear main).
- Start engine, with parking brake on, test clutch engagement by selecting gears while stationary (do not ride clutch).
- Lower vehicle and take slow test drive. Watch for slipping, chatter, new noises, or vibrations.
- After 200–500 km, recheck bolt torques (flywheel, pressure plate), fluid levels and look again for leaks.

Measurements and tolerances to check
- Clutch disc thickness: Compare with new kit spec; if near or below minimum, replace.
- Flywheel runout and surface: If grooved or heat‑spotted, machine or replace (if DMF — replace).
- Release bearing lateral movement: should be smooth, no roughness.
- CV joint play: radial/end play greater than small tolerance indicates replacement.
- Gearbox oil: check for metal in drain plug magnet (a few fine particles are normal; chunks or shavings are not).

Common failure modes and fixes (short list)
- Clutch slipping: replace clutch disc/pressure plate; check for oil contamination (repair seals).
- Clutch won’t disengage: air in hydraulics or bad slave/master — bleed or replace cylinders; check pedal free play.
- Grinding shifting into gear: clutch not fully releasing — hydraulic issue or bad pilot bearing; also worn synchros in gearbox.
- Clutch judder: warped flywheel or uneven surface — resurface/replace flywheel; check engine mounts.
- CV clicking on turns: replace CV axle or joint; always replace boots at first sign of tear.
- Gearbox whining: worn bearings, might require gearbox rebuild or replacement.

Tips, analogies and practical advice
- Aligning the gearbox is like threading a shaft into a splined sleeve — it should slide with modest force when centered. If you have to muscle it, you’re misaligned.
- The clutch is a controlled friction brake: contamination or too much heat destroys the “brake pads” (friction material).
- If the flywheel is uneven, it’s like a warped brake disc — you’ll feel vibration.
- Replace the release bearing and pilot bearing whenever you replace the clutch — they’re cheap insurance.
- If you find oil on the clutch, fix the oil leak source before installing a new clutch or it will fail quickly.
- Always use a clutch alignment tool to center the disc — otherwise you’ll have trouble getting the gearbox input shaft to engage.

What I don’t give here
- Exact bolt counts/locations and torque numbers for F9Q1/F9Q2 installations — those vary by vehicle (Renault vs Mitsubishi mounting variants) and by model year. For safety and correct assembly, consult the factory service manual or repair database for the exact vehicle you’re working on before final torque and reassembly steps.

Final checklist before you finish
- Battery reconnected, all electrical connectors attached.
- Brake/clutch hydraulic systems bled and functioning.
- Gearbox oil at correct level and type.
- No leftover bolts or tools in the engine bay.
- Test drive at low risk area; recheck fasteners and fluid levels after first short drive.

If you follow the logical diagnostic steps, carefully document and mark parts during disassembly, replace wear items as a set, and consult the vehicle’s factory manual for torque and fluid specs, you’ll cover virtually all common drivetrain repairs for an F9Q‑powered car.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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