Ordered explanation (theory first, then the step sequence), no fluff.

1) What the band is and how it works (theory)
- In band‑type automatic transmissions a steel band with a friction lining wraps partway around a drum that is tied to a planetary gear element. When the transmission applies hydraulic pressure to a servo piston, the servo pulls the band tight around the drum and that locks the drum so the planetary set delivers the selected ratio.
- The band is not a clutch plate — it relies on correct preload/clearance so it is fully released when not commanded and fully clamps when commanded. That clearance (freeplay) is set mechanically at the servo/anchor.
- Proper band torque and lining thickness determine how much hydraulic force is needed to stop slip; over time linings wear and clearances increase, or linkage/servo seals wear, so the band doesn’t grip properly and the drum slips under load.

2) Symptoms caused by incorrect band clearance (how the fault appears)
- Slipping on specific ratios (usually low gears), delayed engagement, soft or harsh shifts, burnt ATF smell, loss of reverse or certain gears, shudder under load, metal/liner debris in pan.
- If clearance is too large: delayed engagement and slipping; if clearance is too small: dragging, overheating, harsh engagement and early wear.

3) What the repair changes (how adjustment fixes the fault)
- Adjustment reduces or increases the mechanical freeplay at the servo so the band starts gripping at the correct point and achieves full clamp under normal hydraulic pressure. That restores correct clutch timing and friction capacity and stops slip or drag.
- If linings are worn beyond service limits the adjustment only compensates a little; replacement is required if lining thickness is below spec. Also hydraulic faults (low pressure, leaking servo) can mimic band problems — adjustment won’t fix those.

4) Preparation and safety (brief)
- Work on a level surface, chock wheels, apply parking brake, secure vehicle on stands if you’ll be under it. Warm the transmission to operating temperature (driving or idling until fluid is at normal temp) so clearances reflect real conditions.
- Have correct ATF, new pan gasket/filter if you must drop the pan, feeler gauges/dial indicator, basic hand tools, torque wrench. Consult the service manual for model-specific specs.

5) Inspection & basic diagnosis (ordered)
- Check ATF condition: color, smell, metal particles. Excessive wear suggests band lining damage.
- Road‑test to identify which ratio slips.
- If slipping in a band‑controlled ratio, raise vehicle, drain pan, remove pan and filter to inspect internal condition and note debris.
- Locate the band/servo assembly (servo slave, anchor, adjustment screw or access cover). Visually inspect band lining for obvious wear, glazing or contamination.

6) Measure what matters (ordered)
- Determine band freeplay: common methods —
- Measure servo piston protrusion and compare to spec with a feeler/dial indicator.
- With the band released, measure radial clearance between band and drum using a feeler gauge or measure movement at the anchor/lever (spec depends on transmission).
- Measure lining thickness and compare to service limit.
- Also check hydraulic pressure to the servo at apply and release if available; low apply pressure can cause slip independently of clearance.

7) Adjustment procedure (ordered, conceptual steps you can map to the F9Q‑paired gearbox)
- NOTE: exact bolts/turns/specs are transmission‑specific. The generic sequence is:
a. Remove access plate/cover to reach the servo adjustment/anchor.
b. Put the band in the released position (usually by ensuring linkage is free or piston is backed out).
c. Seat the adjustment screw: tighten the servo/anchor screw until the band just makes contact with the drum (or until a specified preload / torque seats the screw). This removes slack but does not clamp.
d. Back off the screw by the prescribed amount (usually a specified fraction of a turn or to a specified clearance measured with a gauge). That establishes correct freeplay.
e. Lock the adjustment (locknut, tab, or retainer) to prevent movement.
f. Reassemble the servo cover/pan/filter and refill with correct ATF to the service level.
- If the manual gives a “tighten then back off X turns” method, follow that exact number. If it gives a feeler/dimension (e.g., piston protrusion or band clearance), set to that dimension.

8) Reassembly, fill, and verification (ordered)
- Reinstall filter/pan/gasket, torque fasteners to spec.
- Refill to specified level of the correct fluid type, start engine, cycle selector through all gears to distribute fluid and seat components, re‑check level at operating temperature.
- Road test the vehicle under the same conditions that produced symptoms to confirm engagement timing and that slipping/harshness are resolved.
- Recheck pan for metal particles after a short driven period; persistent debris suggests lining failure and the unit needs overhaul.

9) When adjustment is not enough
- If after correct adjustment the band still slips or drags, inspect lining thickness and replace band/servo or rebuild transmission. Also investigate valve body, worn drums, low hydraulic pressure (pump), or leaking servo seals.

10) Why follow temperature/specs and proper technique
- Band clearances change with temperature and fluid viscosity. Adjusting cold gives wrong preload; adjusting to wrong spec either leaves slip or causes drag. Also overtightening during “seat” step can damage linings or hydraulics.

Concise summary: the band is a friction device that must have a controlled freeplay so the servo can reliably clamp the drum. Adjustment restores that freeplay; the procedure is remove access, measure, seat the adjustment, back off to spec, lock and test. If linings or hydraulics are beyond limits, adjustment only masks the problem and a rebuild is required.

End — follow the specific Renault/Mitsubishi transmission service manual for the exact access points, turn counts, clearances and torques for the F9Q‑paired gearbox.
rteeqp73

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1) Define the fault and objective (theory)
- Faults a bad pressure plate produces: clutch slip under load (engine revs rise without acceleration), poor bite or grab, judder/vibration on engagement, noise from diaphragm or rivet looseness, or inability to disengage fully.
- What the pressure plate does: it clamps the clutch friction disc against the flywheel. The diaphragm/springs provide clamping force; face friction transfers engine torque. Replacing the pressure plate restores clamping force, corrects spring geometry, and renews the friction faces (or removes warped surfaces) so torque transmits correctly and engagement disengagement become consistent.

2) Preparation and safety (why it matters)
- Disconnect battery and secure vehicle on stands or lift; use correct supports for gearbox/engine.
- Theory: removing the transmission is heavy and dangerous; safe supports prevent sudden drops that would damage splines, alignment surfaces, or cause injury.

3) Accessing the clutch (order + purpose)
- Remove transmission, propshafts, starter motor, and any ancillary that blocks gearbox removal.
- Theory: the input shaft must be free from the clutch disc; gearbox removal exposes the pressure plate/flywheel for removal. Any remaining connection will distort or prevent correct disassembly.

4) Mark relative orientation if necessary
- Mark gearbox housing to engine and flywheel to crank orientation if service manual advises.
- Theory: retaining original alignment markers can speed reassembly and ensure ancillary items (starter, dowels) return to correct positions; prevents misalignment of bellhousing.

5) Release pressure plate bolts gradually and evenly
- Loosen the pressure plate bolts in a diagonal/star pattern, a couple of turns at a time until the diaphragm relaxes. Then remove bolts.
- Theory: the pressure plate is under spring preload; uneven or sudden release can warp the flywheel or damage the pressure plate. A controlled, symmetric release avoids distortion.

6) Remove pressure plate and clutch disc; inspect components
- Pull the pressure plate and clutch disc free; inspect flywheel face, clutch disc rivets, spline hub, and release bearing.
- Theory/what to check:
- Flywheel: look for heat spots, scoring, grooves, or warpage. Heat spots and glazing reduce friction and cause judder; deep scoring or warpage requires resurfacing or replacement.
- Clutch disc: check friction thickness, rivet clearance, oil contamination, and torsional spring condition. Contamination or worn lining causes slip; broken springs cause noise/judder.
- Release bearing/fork/pivot: worn or seized bearing prevents full disengagement. Replace bearing when replacing pressure plate.

7) Measure and decide flywheel action
- Measure flywheel surface for flatness/runout and disc contact area condition. Resurface (grind) or replace if beyond spec or if heat checks/grooves present.
- Theory: an uneven flywheel surface prevents full face contact and causes uneven clamping, local overheating and slip; resurfacing restores a flat mating face so the pressure plate and disc clamp evenly.

8) Prepare parts and mating faces
- Clean the flywheel, crankshaft pilot bore, and pressure plate contact areas with solvent (no oily residue). Replace pilot bush/bearing if worn. Fit new pressure plate/clutch disc and alignment tool to center the disc on the input shaft.
- Theory: contamination with oil/grease reduces friction coefficient causing immediate or rapid slip. Proper pilot support keeps the disc centered; if pilot or disc off-center, transmission input shaft will not enter easily and will cause mis-engagement and wear.

9) Fit clutch disc and pressure plate with alignment tool
- Place clutch disc on alignment tool pushed into the pilot/bushing so the disc is perfectly centered. Fit the pressure plate over the disc, start bolts finger-tight in a diagonal/star pattern.
- Theory: centering ensures the transmission input shaft will pass smoothly through the disc hub into the pilot bearing when the gearbox is reinstalled. Star tightening keeps the plate parallel to the flywheel to avoid warping and uneven clamp.

10) Torque bolts in progressive stages to spec
- Tighten bolts in a star pattern in progressive stages to the manufacturer torque (consult service manual; typical M8 torque ~20–40 Nm but confirm). Replace pressure plate bolts if they’re single-use.
- Theory: staged tightening compresses the diaphragm evenly so the clamping force is uniform across the friction disc. Correct torque ensures bolts stay secure without overstressing threads/dowels.

11) Check release mechanism and input shaft engagement
- Inspect and, if necessary, replace the release bearing and any grease points on pivot pins. Ensure correct bearing orientation and free movement of clutch fork. Clean and lightly lubricate contact points only (not rubbing faces).
- Theory: poor release action (sticking/rough bearing) prevents full disengagement, causes drag/judder and gear selection problems. A smooth bearing and correctly lubricated pivot give consistent travel and reduce wear.

12) Refit gearbox and ancillary parts
- Carefully align gearbox to clutch using the alignment tool as a guide, slide gearbox input shaft into clutch disc/hub/pilot. Torque bellhousing/gearbox bolts to spec and reconnect all removed components (starter, propshafts, linkages, hydraulics). Reconnect battery.
- Theory: careful alignment avoids forcing the gearbox and avoids damage to input shaft splines, disc splines, or pilot bearing. Proper torquing and reassembly restores drivetrain geometry and eliminates leaks/vibrations.

13) Bleed clutch hydraulics (if hydraulic) and check pedal free-play
- Bleed system to remove air; set pedal free play per spec.
- Theory: air in the hydraulic line reduces clamping/disengagement travel; correct free-play ensures diaphragm spring operates through its design range and wear is compensated.

14) Test and bed-in procedure
- Initial test: start engine, check that clutch engages/disengages smoothly; without moving the vehicle, slowly engage to verify bite. Road test with gentle starts and avoid towing/heavy loads for first ~100–300 km.
- Theory: new friction material and mating faces need to mate under controlled conditions so contact pattern bed-in forms uniformly; aggressive use before bedding-in can glaze surfaces or unevenly heat them causing premature slip or judder.

15) How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Replacing the pressure plate fixes slip/judder/no-disengage by restoring correct clamping force and spring geometry that press the friction disc to the flywheel uniformly. Removing warped or heat-damaged flywheel surfaces and replacing contaminated or worn friction discs and bearings removes the root causes of reduced friction, uneven contact and poor release. Correct alignment, torque and hydraulic/adjustment work ensures the replaced parts operate within design tolerances so torque is reliably transmitted and gears can be selected without drag.

Key practical theory notes (concise)
- Clutch transmits torque via normal force × friction coefficient. Pressure plate supplies normal force; contamination or weakened springs reduce effective force so transmitted torque drops -> slip.
- Diaphragm spring geometry: if springs are fatigued/warped, clamp becomes uneven or reduced. Replacing restores spring stiffness and clamping uniformity.
- Runout/flatness: small tilts produce non-uniform loading under clamping causing chatter/judder and localized overheating. Resurfacing corrects that.
- Always replace or inspect release bearing and pilot support: poor disengagement causes wear and can mimic pressure plate faults.

Done.
rteeqp73