Summary first (very short): a sway bar link (endlink) connects the anti‑roll bar (sway bar) to the suspension (control arm or strut). If it’s worn/broken you get clunks, sloppy cornering, and uneven body roll. Replace both sides, use jack stands, follow correct torque, and check for rusted fasteners. Below is a beginner‑level, detailed guide: what every part is, why it fails, tools, step‑by‑step instructions for common link types, how to avoid mistakes, and what can go wrong.

What the system is and why it matters (theory, with an analogy)
- Sway bar (anti‑roll bar): a torsion bar that joins the left and right suspension. Analogy: imagine a thin metal clothes hanger spanning two poles; when one side moves up, the hanger twists and resists the motion on the other side. The sway bar reduces body roll in turns.
- Endlink (sway bar link): the short link that connects the sway bar to the suspension (control arm, trailing arm, or strut). Analogy: the hinge or short rod that ties the hanger to a pole so the twist gets transferred.
- Bushings/brackets: rubber or polyurethane blocks that clamp the bar to the body; they allow controlled flex and isolate noise.
- Ball joint (in some endlinks) or through‑bolt with bushings: the joint that allows angular movement without binding.
Why it fails:
- Rubber bushings and ball‑joint boots degrade with age, salt, and oil — they tear or collapse.
- Corrosion seizes studs or bolts, and shock loads can shear studs.
- Wear/looseness in the joint causes clunking and loss of roll control.
Symptoms you will notice:
- Clunk or rattle over bumps.
- Increased or sloppy body roll in turns.
- Noise only when turning or going over bumps.
- Visual: torn boots, play at the link, or loose nut.

Components — detailed description of every part you’ll touch
- Sway bar (anti‑roll bar): a steel bar bent to run across the vehicle. It twists when one wheel moves relative to the other.
- Endlink shaft/stud: the threaded rod or forged stud that secures the link to the bar and suspension.
- Ball joint (if equipped): a spherical joint pressed/assembled into the link, often covered by a rubber dust boot.
- Rubber bushing (on many links): cushions the connection, often sandwiched with a steel sleeve/washer.
- Metal spacer/sleeve: steel tube inside the bushing for the bolt to pass through.
- Nut(s) and washers: secure the stud or bolt; sometimes a castellated nut with cotter pin is used.
- Bracket and bushings (for sway bar mounting): clamp the bar to the chassis; made up of a metal bracket and a rubber/polyurethane bushing.
- Locking features: nylon insert in the nut or torque‑to‑yield threads that prevent back‑off.
- Dust boot: protects the ball joint from dirt and water.
- Fasteners: could be single hex nut, through‑bolt with nut, or nut with Allen/hex insert in stud so it doesn’t spin.

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Socket set and ratchet (metric sockets typical).
- Combination wrenches (matching sizes).
- Torque wrench (essential).
- Jack and properly rated jack stands (never rely on the jack alone).
- Wheel chocks and parking brake.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster).
- Hammer and a punch or pry bar.
- Ball joint separator or pickle‑fork, or an open‑end wrench for hex flats on the stud.
- Allen key or hex bit (some studs accept an Allen to hold while you remove the nut).
- Vice grips (to hold a rounded stud).
- Wire brush to clean threads.
- Anti‑seize compound and/or medium strength threadlocker (check part recommendations).
- New endlinks (always buy the correct replacement part) and new fasteners if supplied.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection.

Preparations and safety (non‑optional)
- Work on a flat surface. Chock rear wheels and set parking brake.
- Slightly loosen the wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground (do not remove).
- Use the manufacturer jacking point(s) and place jack stands under a solid part of the subframe or pinch welds. Never work under the car supported only by a jack.
- Wear eye protection. Rust removal can throw debris.
- If bolts are severely rusted, have a plan (penetrating oil, heat, backup tools) and be prepared to replace bolts.

Two common endlink types and their removal/installation sequences
Type A — Ball‑joint stud endlink (most common): threaded stud with nut, sometimes has an internal hex or flats on the stud.
Removal
1. Loosen wheel lugs before lifting. Lift the car and put on stands. Remove the wheel.
2. Inspect: locate the endlink between the sway bar and the control arm/strut.
3. Apply penetrating oil to the nut/stud and let soak 5–10 minutes.
4. If the joint has an Allen/hex recess in the top of the stud, insert the appropriate Allen key or hex bit through the nut to hold the stud while you undo the nut. If it’s rounded, clamp vice grips on the stud or use a second wrench on the flats if present.
5. Put a wrench on the nut and turn counterclockwise while holding the stud from turning (Allen, hex, or vice grips). If it won’t budge, tap the nut with a hammer to break corrosion, or use penetrating oil again; use heat only if safe and necessary.
6. Once the nut is removed, you may have to free the stud from the sway bar or control arm. Use a ball‑joint separator or a hammer to strike the side of the joint to dislodge it (avoid damaging the bar or control arm).
7. Remove the link. If the ball joint is pressed through the control arm, it should pull out. If there are washers/bushings, note their order and orientation — you’ll install the new link in the same way.
Installation
1. Compare the new link to the old one. Length and orientation must match. Replace both sides if one was bad.
2. Assemble new bushings/spacers exactly as the old one was oriented. Lightly coat threads with anti‑seize or use the lubricant specified by the part maker.
3. Insert the stud into its holes (sway bar and control arm/strut). If ease is an issue, lift/lower the suspension slightly with a jack (support the control arm with a jack under the lower arm) so holes line up — but keep the vehicle on stands.
4. Fit washers and start the nut by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
5. Torque the nut to manufacturer spec. If you cannot find the spec for your model, a typical range for endlink nuts is 35–75 Nm (26–55 ft‑lb) depending on vehicle and whether it’s a through‑bolt or small stud — but this is only a guideline. Use the official service manual for exact torque.
6. If a cotter pin or torque‑to‑yield nut was used originally, follow the original locking method (replace cotter pins, replace nuts with same type).
7. Reinstall the wheel, lower the car, torque wheel nuts to spec, test drive.

Type B — Bolt‑through endlink with bushings (sleeve and rubber bushings)
Removal
1–3. Same prep steps: loosen lugs, lift, remove wheel.
4. There will usually be a bolt through the link connecting the sway bar eye and the control arm. Remove the nut and pull the bolt out.
5. The bolt may be rusted; use penetrating oil and a hammer if needed. If the bolt rotates, hold the head with a socket or wrench while turning the nut off.
6. Remove washers, bushings, sleeves; note their order.
Installation
1. Install new bushings onto the bolt/sleeve in the correct order. Lightly grease only if the new bushings require it (check part recommendations — some polyurethane bushings should not be greased in ways that produce noise).
2. Push bolt through sway bar eye and control arm, fit washers and nut, start by hand.
3. Torque to spec, replace locking hardware as originally used.
4. Refit wheel, lower car, torque wheel nuts to spec.

Important technique notes and beginner tips
- Support the suspension: when you remove the link, the control arm or strut can drop or move; support it with a jack or stand to avoid straining brake lines or ABS wires.
- Alignment: replacing endlinks normally does not require a wheel alignment, but if you disturbed control arm bolts or ride height, check alignment.
- Always replace both sides when one side shows wear; matched parts perform better.
- If bolts are corroded and you need to cut them off: be careful not to damage adjacent components (brake lines, wiring). Have replacement bolts ready.
- On some cars the top of the stud has an internal hex or flats; insert the correct tool to prevent stud spinning while removing the nut. If unavailable, use vice grips carefully.
- Thread condition: clean threads with a wire brush before installing new nuts. If threads are damaged, replace studs/bolts.
- Don’t overtighten: overtorqueing can break studs or crush bushings and lead to premature failure or a seized assembly.

Common things that can go wrong and how to avoid them
- Seized nuts/studs: penetrating oil, patience, tapping, or heat. Avoid rounding heads — use proper sized tools. If you shear a stud, you may need an extractor or to replace the sway bar or control arm fastener; have spares.
- Binding joints after installation: if installed with suspension unloaded in an odd position, the link can pre‑load and bind. Install with the suspension at normal ride height if possible or with the control arm supported to approximate normal geometry.
- Incorrect torque: under‑torqued = noise and possible nut loosening; over‑torqued = damaged joint or broken stud. Use a torque wrench.
- Cross‑threading: always start nuts by hand first.
- Using wrong part: an incorrect length or style will stress components and may cause handling issues. Match OEM specs.
- Not supporting the suspension: removing the link without supporting the arm may rip or stretch brake lines/ABS sensors or pinch hoses.

Testing after replacement
- Check visually that bushings sit squarely and nuts are seated.
- With car on ground (wheels installed and torqued), bounce the corner by hand and listen for noise.
- Take a short low‑speed test drive on a quiet road and listen for clunks over bumps and feel for restored confident cornering.
- Recheck fastener torque after a short test drive (recommended for many suspension fasteners).

Final checklist before finishing
- Both sides replaced or inspected.
- All nuts/bolts torqued to spec (or within manufacturer’s guidelines).
- Wheel nuts torqued to spec.
- Jack removed, vehicle safely lowered.
- No rubbing or interference with brake lines or ABS wires.
- Old parts discarded or kept for reference (compare new/old).

If you can’t find exact torque specs for a particular model (F9Q1/F9Q2 equipped Mitsubishi/Renault variants), get the factory service manual or a reliable repair database for your specific vehicle and axle (front/rear). When in doubt about seized or corroded fasteners, or if you’re uncomfortable with jacking/standing procedures, have a shop handle removal — it’s safer than improvising.

That’s it — orderly steps, components, theory, pitfalls, and how to test. Follow the safety steps exactly and use the correct part and torque specs for your exact vehicle variant.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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