Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set (up to 24 mm), breaker bar, extensions, combination wrenches, hex/torx set.
- Transmission jack (or heavy-duty floor jack + safety stands + wood blocks).
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (to support engine when gearbox removed).
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm).
- Slide hammer / puller set (for stubborn torque converter or input splines).
- Snap‑ring pliers, seal driver set, drift punches.
- Hydraulic press (if rebuilding clutch plates/bearings).
- Torque converter holding tool / spanner for converter bolts (if required).
- Fluid pump for filling torque converter.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner, lint‑free rags.
- New transmission fluid (manufacturer spec), pan gasket, filter, seals/O‑rings.
- Replacement torque converter OR rebuild kit (clutch plates, piston seals, snap rings, one‑way clutch if available).
- New torque converter bolts, flexplate bolts (recommended).
- PPE: gloves, safety glasses, steel‑toe boots.
- Jack stands, wheel chocks, drip trays.

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on a level surface; chock wheels. Use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting. Relieve any stored pressure in fluid lines.
- Support the engine with an engine support bar or hoist once gearbox is removed.
- Drain ATF/gearbox oil into an approved container and dispose properly. Avoid skin contact.
- Do not work under the vehicle unsupported. Avoid clothing/skin contact with rotating parts.
- If using a press, ensure parts are correctly seated; springs/retainers can eject violently.

Overview & decision point
- Lock‑up torque converter (TCC) problems can be electrical (TCC solenoid, wiring, PCM control, pressure), hydraulic (valve body, pressure loss) or mechanical (worn clutch pack, seals, piston). Diagnose electrically/hydraulically first. If mechanical TCC clutch is suspected, transmission removal and either replacing the torque converter or rebuilding its clutch pack is required.
- For most technicians and cost/availability reasons, replacing the entire torque converter is the recommended route unless you have specific rebuild kits and shop equipment.

Step-by-step procedure (typical; refer to OEM service manual for exact fasteners, torque specs and sequences)

1) Preliminary diagnosis (before teardown)
- Scan for codes (TCC solenoid, hydraulic pressures).
- Check transmission fluid level, color, smell (burnt = clutch wear).
- Check TCC solenoid resistance/operation and wiring connectors; verify cooler lines, pressure at TCC apply port if you have a pressure gauge.
- If electrical/hydraulic systems check fine and mechanical clutch is suspected, proceed.

2) Prepare vehicle
- Park level, chock rear wheels, lift vehicle on hoist or use floor jack + stands.
- Remove engine cover/airbox as needed for access.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.

3) Remove driveline components and access
- Remove wheels if needed and disconnect front axle shafts/halfshafts or propshaft (driveline) depending on vehicle layout.
- Remove exhaust sections that obstruct gearbox removal.
- Drain transmission fluid (pan off) into drain tray; remove pan and filter if you plan to replace filter.
- Disconnect transmission cooler lines (cap them to avoid contamination), gear selector linkage, speed/diff sensors, wiring harness connectors from transmission and torque converter area.
- Unbolt starter motor, remove as necessary.
- Support engine with engine support bar/hoist; remove any engine mounts attached to transmission crossmember.
- Remove transmission crossmember and mounts.

4) Unbolt torque converter from flexplate (if accessible) or prepare to separate gearbox
- Rotate engine slowly to access flexplate bolts to torque converter (or remove gearbox to access converter bolts).
- If you can reach converter bolts from bellhousing, remove them (support flexplate if needed). If not accessible, proceed to remove transmission with converter attached — common approach.

5) Separate gearbox from engine
- Use transmission jack to support gearbox. Remove bellhousing bolts in a star pattern.
- Carefully slide gearbox straight back from engine until input shaft clears crank pilot. As you slide back, the torque converter will slide off the crank snout (if unbolted from flexplate it will remain on gearbox input shaft). Watch for wiring, hoses and alignment dowels.
- Lower gearbox off the jack and move clear.

6) Remove torque converter from gearbox/input shaft
- If converter was bolted to flexplate and then gearbox removed, converter may stay on engine. If converter is on gearbox input shaft, support it and remove the torque converter from the input shaft by sliding it off straight — avoid angling. Use a puller or slide hammer if stuck. Mark orientation relative to gearbox/housing if reusing (not recommended to reuse worn converter).
- If you are removing converter bolts from flexplate, gain access and unfasten with appropriate socket; hold crank with a flywheel locking tool or have an assistant. Use a torque wrench to loosen to avoid rounding heads.

7) Inspect and decide rebuild vs replacement
- Cut open converter only if you have a rebuild kit and service manual instructions. Inspect clutch discs, friction material, piston seals, one‑way clutch and bushings.
- Most repairs require replacing the entire converter or a factory rebuild. If rebuilding, press off turbine hub, replace clutch plates and seals, install new snap rings and assemble to spec using hydraulic press and manufacturer torque/clearance specs.

8) Replacing clutch pack / seals inside the converter (advanced, shop-level)
- Secure converter in vise with soft jaws.
- Remove snap rings and plates with snap ring pliers/drifts.
- Use hydraulic press to remove/press on components (follow part orientation).
- Replace piston seals/o‑rings with OEM kit using seal driver.
- Reassemble clutch pack and check end‑play and clearance with dial indicator; install new snap rings.
- Spin test to ensure free movement and correct lock‑up engagement (shop-specific hydraulic testing recommended).

9) Install new or rebuilt torque converter
- Pre‑fill converter with correct transmission fluid until internal fill ports are full (pump if necessary). This avoids dry start and ensures immediate lubrication.
- Coat the input splines lightly with recommended fluid.
- Slide the converter onto the transmission input shaft; rotate it and push until it seats fully and engages the pump. You should feel 3 distinct engagements (as it meshes to the pump and splines). If not fully seated, the bellhousing will not bolt flush.
- With the converter installed, align and lift gearbox back into position with transmission jack. Carefully mate gearbox to engine; ensure dowels align and the torque converter remains fully seated into the flexplate. If you removed converter bolts earlier, reattach converter to flexplate with new bolts and torque to OEM spec.

10) Reassembly
- Reinstall bellhousing bolts and torque to spec in recommended sequence.
- Reinstall starter, mounts, crossmember, exhaust, axles/driveshaft, linkages, sensors and wiring.
- Install new transmission filter and pan gasket if removed; refill with specified amount of transmission fluid.
- Bleed the transmission/cooler circuit if required (pump until fluid level stabilizes and no air present). Use fluid pump to get converter full before first start.

11) Final checks & testing
- Reconnect battery. Start engine and check for leaks.
- With brakes applied and transmission in park/neutral, cycle through gears to circulate fluid and check operation.
- Road test and monitor TCC engagement: observe shift quality, RPM drop when lock‑up engages, no shudder.
- Scan for codes and clear if none persist; recheck fluid level and top to spec when warm.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not filling the converter before installation — leads to instant wear/damage. Always prefill or pump fluid into converter.
- Not seating converter fully onto input shaft — gearbox will not mate; forcing can damage pump and splines. Verify 3 positive “clicks”/engagements and that bellhousing clamps flat to block before bolting.
- Reusing worn torque converter or cheap aftermarket converters — can cause repeated failure. Prefer OEM or quality remanufactured converters.
- Damaging seals/O‑rings or contaminating fluid — keep everything clean, replace seals, use clean rags and filtered fluid.
- Not supporting engine when removing gearbox — leads to misalignment or dropped engine.
- Overlooking electrical/hydraulic causes — replacing converter when solenoid or valve body is faulty wastes money. Verify TCC solenoid, wiring and pressure first.
- Incorrect torque on bolts — use torque wrench and OEM specs. Replace torque converter/flexplate bolts once; they can stretch.
- Not replacing transmission filter/gasket — contamination from clutch wear will remain.

Replacement parts typically required
- Torque converter (recommended) OR torque converter rebuild kit (clutch plates, piston seals, snap rings, bearings).
- Torque converter mounting bolts and flexplate bolts (replace if torque‑to‑yield).
- Transmission filter and pan gasket.
- Transmission fluid (mfr spec).
- TCC solenoid (if diagnosed faulty), O‑rings/seals on cooler lines if brittle.
- Misc: engine/transmission mount hardware, cooler hose clamps.

Tool usage notes (how the tool is used)
- Transmission jack: supports and raises/lowers gearbox; cradle and tilt gearbox for alignment. Use safety straps.
- Engine support bar/hoist: prevents engine from dropping when crossmember removed.
- Torque wrench: tighten bellhousing, converter, and flexplate bolts to spec; prevents over/undertorque.
- Slide hammer/puller: used to free a stuck torque converter off input shaft or pull flexplate if needed.
- Seal driver: installs new pump/converter seals squarely without damage.
- Hydraulic press: used only when rebuilding converter internals — presses off/on hubs, bearings and pistons under controlled force.
- Snap‑ring pliers: remove and install internal retaining rings safely.
- Fluid pump: prefills converter and pumps fluid back in during reassembly without spills.

Final note
Follow the factory service manual for F9Q1/F9Q2 models for all torque specs, clearances, OEM part numbers and any model‑specific steps. If you lack the shop tools (press, converter rebuild kit, test bench), replacement of the torque converter with a quality remanufactured or OEM unit is the safest, most reliable option.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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