What a “shock mount” is here: on F9Q1/F9Q2 diesel installations this usually means an engine mount (rubber or hydraulic insulator plus metal brackets and bolts) or torque/anti‑vibration link that supports the engine/transmission and damps vibration. Below is a beginner‑mechanic, detailed but practical guide: theory, components, inspection, complete step‑by‑step replacement procedure, common failure modes and how to handle them, safety notes and final checks. Read everything first, have the right tools, and consult a factory service manual for vehicle‑specific bolt sizes and torque values.

Why this repair is needed (theory, in plain terms)
- Purpose: Engine mounts locate the engine/transmission, carry their weight, and absorb vibration and torque reactions. Without a good mount the engine can shift, vibrate, bang into other parts, or overload driveline components.
- How it works: A mount is a spring‑damper assembly:
- The elastic element (rubber or hydraulic bladder) acts like a spring to support weight and isolate engine vibration from the chassis.
- Many mounts include damping (rubber hysteresis or fluid chambers) to dissipate vibrational energy so vibration doesn’t transmit into the cabin.
- Torque arms/links limit rotation of the engine under load (accel/decel).
- Analogy: The mount is like a mattress with shock absorbers under a washing machine — it holds the machine in place and soaks up the shaking so the floor doesn't bounce.
- Why they fail: Rubber ages, cracks, or is contaminated by oil; hydraulic mounts can leak fluid; studs/bolts corrode and shear; mounts can be overloaded by engine misalignment, worn adjacent mounts, or external damage.

Components you’ll deal with (every part, what it does)
- Engine bracket (engine side plate): bolted to the engine block or bellhousing; rigid metal piece that transmits load to the mount.
- Chassis bracket / subframe bracket: connects to the body or subframe and receives the mount’s other face.
- Mount body (insulator): rubber block or hydraulic element that insulates vibration and supports load.
- Rubber mount: solid molded rubber bonded to metal plates.
- Hydraulic mount: rubber with internal fluid chamber(s) for damping.
- Top and bottom metal plates / saddle: metal end plates that sandwich the insulator and attach to brackets.
- Stud(s) / bolt(s): fasteners that hold mount to engine and chassis. Some mounts have captive studs that screw into the engine; others use bolts and nuts.
- Washers / locking elements: flat washers, spring washers, self‑locking nuts or nyloc nuts.
- Torque arm / dogbone (if present): a link that resists engine rotation.
- Subframe / engine cradle: large structure the mount may bolt onto; sometimes needs partial support removal to access mount bolts.
- Ancillary components you may remove: battery, airbox, intake ducts, heat shields, engine cover, intercooler pipes, wiring harness clips — these are removed to access the mount.

Tools & materials
- Vehicle service manual (for torque specs, order of removal, and any specific notes)
- Floor jack + hardwood block (to support engine) OR engine support bar/hoist (preferred)
- Jack stands (always use stands if vehicle is raised)
- Socket set (metric), deep sockets, extensions
- Breaker bar, swivel/ratchet
- Torque wrench (for final tightening to spec)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40 specialist) for rusty bolts
- Pry bar
- Hammer and punch (cautiously, for freeing stuck studs)
- Torque angle gauge if required by manual
- New mount (OE part or equivalent); replace bolts/studs/nuts if recommended
- Threadlocker (medium strength blue) or anti‑seize (per manual)
- Safety glasses, gloves, wheel chocks
- Optional: impact wrench, heat source (propane torch) — use with caution

Safety first (non‑negotiable)
- Work on a flat surface, car in gear/park, handbrake on, wheels chocked.
- Never rely on a single jack. If the vehicle is raised, use jack stands under rated points.
- Support the engine independently (engine support bar or jack with wood block) BEFORE removing any mount bolts.
- Do not put hands under the engine unsupported. Keep clear of pinch points.
- If you must cut or heat rusty bolts, be aware of fuel/lines nearby and take fire precautions.
- If a stud snaps, be prepared for extraction procedures or professional help; don’t let the engine drop.

Inspection and diagnosing before replacement
- Visual: look for cracks in rubber, separation between rubber and plates, collapsed sections, or oil staining/bleeding from hydraulic mounts.
- Physical check: with car in neutral and handbrake on, have an assistant rev engine while you watch engine movement; excessive rocking or clunks = failed mount/torque link.
- Pry test: with engine supported, use a pry bar between engine bracket and chassis bracket to check play, but don’t pry beyond what’s safe.
- Check adjacent mounts: often one failed mount is accompanied by others being near end of life; replace the obvious failed one and inspect the rest.
- Note orientation and alignment of the old mount before removal; mark bolt positions with paint or chalk.

Step‑by‑step replacement (beginner friendly)
You must adapt location/access specifics to your vehicle. This is the full logical sequence.

1) Preparation
- Gather tools and replacement mount.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be removing near electrical components.
- Chock rear wheels. Raise vehicle with jack and support on jack stands if required for access. Remove any undertrays as needed.
- Remove obstruction components (battery, airbox, intake piping, heat shields, intercooler piping, wiring clips) to give clear access to the mount.

2) Support the engine
- Position a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan or transmission where safe to press gently. Do NOT press directly on oil pan without a block. Alternatively use an engine support bar or engine hoist attached to lifting points on the engine.
- Raise jack slightly so it supports the engine weight but don’t lift the engine — just take the weight. You want to relieve the mount, not change engine angle excessively.

3) Free the mount
- Spray penetrating oil on all mount bolts/studs and let soak (15–30 min if very rusty).
- Loosen and remove nuts/bolts in a sensible order: usually chassis bolts first, then engine bracket bolts, but consult manual for any order requirement. Keep track of bolts and washers.
- If studs are seized, try penetrating oil, then carefully use a socket on the nut with an impact wrench or breaker bar. If the stud spins in the threaded hole instead of the nut turning, you’ll need to secure the stud from spinning (vice grip on stud or access to hold it) or plan extract/replace.

4) Remove old mount
- Once bolts removed, tilt or pry mount out of its position. There may be tight fits or rubber bonded to bracket — a pry bar helps. Be careful not to stress metal brackets.
- Compare old and new mounts to ensure orientation and that the new part is correct.

5) Clean and prepare surfaces
- Clean mounting surfaces on engine and chassis (wire brush, rag). Remove rust and paint flaking so new mount seats fully.
- If replacement includes new nuts/bolts/studs, use them. If reusing bolts, inspect threads for damage and clean; apply a small amount of anti‑seize or threadlocker according to manual.

6) Install new mount
- Position new mount in place: align studs/holes exactly. Use light taps if needed but don’t distort rubber.
- Start bolts/nuts by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Install washers and lock nuts as per original.
- Do not fully tighten yet — leave bolts snug but able to move slightly so the engine can settle to correct orientation.

7) Lower engine onto mount and torque
- Slowly lower the engine support so the engine weight seats onto the new mount. Ensure correct seating, no misalignment or pinched hoses/wires.
- With engine resting, torque bolts to factory specifications (very important). If you don’t have specs: get them from the factory manual or a reputable online database before final torque. If specs are unknown, torque wrench use is mandatory — do not guess high.
- If the manual requires torque plus angle, follow that exactly.
- If any bolts require threadlocker, apply as specified.

8) Reassemble ancillary parts
- Reinstall removed components: airbox, battery, intake piping, heat shields, clips. Reconnect battery negative if disconnected.
- Remove jacks/supports and lower vehicle if raised.

9) Test and re‑check
- Start engine and observe for abnormal movement, clunks, or increased vibration.
- With engine warmed up, re‑inspect bolts for looseness. After 100–200 km (or one day) re‑check torque on mount bolts — many mechanics recommend re‑torquing after a short break‑in.

Common problems and how to handle them
- Rusted/seized bolts or studs:
- Penetrating oil, impact wrench, heat (careful), or use an extractor if stud breaks.
- If a stud is corroded where it threads into the block, you may need an insert (Helicoil) or replacement stud; this can be more advanced.
- Broken stud nub inside the block:
- Extractor tools, left‑hand drill bits, or weld a nut to the remaining stud if safe and permitted.
- If extraction damages threads, repair with thread insert or helicoil.
- Mount bracket bent or cracked:
- Replace bracket or subframe if damaged — do not re‑use a bent bracket.
- Wrong mount type installed:
- Hydraulic vs rubber have different damping; ensure correct part number.
- Engine sag / alignment change after install:
- Reposition and re‑install with engine properly supported. Ensure torque arm is correctly connected and other mounts aren’t worn.
- Increased vibration after replacement:
- Possible causes: wrong mount, other mounts failed, improper installation orientation, or engine misalignment.
- If you can’t access bolts:
- Remove additional components (exhaust heatshield, alternator, etc.) as needed. Follow manual access steps.

When to replace other mounts at the same time
- If one mount fails, others are often partially degraded. Replacing front and rear or all mounts at once is common and prevents additional stress on a new mount.

Final notes (concise)
- This job is straightforward mechanically but requires correct engine support and correct torque values. Never let the engine drop — that’s the primary hazard.
- Always use the correct replacement mount and follow factory torque specs. If bolts/studs break or threads are damaged, consider professional help if you’re not comfortable with extraction or thread repair.
- After replacement, drive gently at first and re‑check everything.

If you need vehicle‑specific torque values or diagrams, consult the Mitsubishi/Renault factory repair manual for the model and year.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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