Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, extensions
- Torque wrench (capable down to 5–50 Nm)
- Combination wrenches + flare/line wrench set (10–19 mm)
- Screwdrivers, pliers
- Brake/clutch fluid DOT spec (consult vehicle — usually DOT 4 for Renault/Mitsubishi F9Q)
- Small clear hose + catch bottle for bleeding
- Vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder (recommended) or helper for two-person bleed
- Drain pan, rags, gloves, eye protection
- Jack, jack stands or vehicle lift, wheel chocks
- Wire brush, parts cleaner (brake cleaner)
- New slave cylinder (correct part for F9Q1/F9Q2), new banjo bolt crush washers (if banjo-style), new mounting bolts if required by OEM
- Optional: transmission jack or support if you remove the gearbox or need to relieve linkage

Safety first
- Work on a level surface. Chock rear wheels and set parking brake.
- Support car with quality jack stands; do not rely on the jack.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and skin — keep rags and water nearby.
- Dispose of used fluid properly.
- If you must loosen hydraulic line with engine hot, allow to cool.

Overview of the job
On F9Q1/F9Q2-equipped cars the clutch slave cylinder is an external hydraulic cylinder mounted on the gearbox bellhousing that operates the clutch release fork. Replacement does NOT usually require removing the gearbox — access from wheel well/underbody or engine bay depending on model. Main tasks: remove hydraulic line, remove cylinder, install new unit (with new crush washers if applicable), refill reservoir and bleed system until firm pedal and no air.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Prepare vehicle
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be working near sensors/wiring (optional).
- Raise and support vehicle with jack stands or place on a lift. Remove wheel or undertray as needed for access to the slave cylinder.
- Place drain pan under the slave cylinder and have a supply of rags.

2) Locate the slave cylinder
- Find it mounted on the bellhousing where it pushes on the clutch fork. Identify hydraulic connection type: banjo bolt with copper crush washers, or threaded pipe fitting.
- Clean area with parts cleaner to prevent contamination.

3) Drain/prepare hydraulic line
- Remove the reservoir cap or cover to allow air in while bleeding.
- Using a flare/line wrench, loosen the hydraulic line fitting. If banjo bolt, remove the bolt (have new crush washers ready). Catch leaking fluid in drain pan and route clear hose if you plan to reuse hose during bleeding.
- Important: use a flare-line wrench to avoid rounding the fitting. If the line is corroded, apply penetrating oil and wait.

4) Remove slave cylinder
- Remove the mounting bolts (usually 2) with appropriate socket.
- Pull the cylinder off the bellhousing and release it from the fork/pushrod. Inspect the pushrod and fork for wear and correct orientation.
- Clean mating surface and threads.

5) Prepare and inspect new parts
- Compare old and new slave cylinder. Replace crush washers for banjo fitting. Check pushrod length and adjust if the new unit has an adjustable pushrod — set so there is a small free play at pedal per factory spec (if adjustable).
- Lightly lubricate pushrod pivot with a small amount of grease only where it contacts the fork (do not contaminate the friction surfaces or get grease in hydraulic passages).

6) Install new slave cylinder
- Fit new cylinder onto the bellhousing, align pushrod with clutch fork.
- Start and tighten mounting bolts by hand, then torque to OEM spec. If you don’t have the exact spec, snug to a firm setting and check manual for correct torque — typical small bellhousing bolts are 10–30 Nm (consult service data).
- Install hydraulic line. If banjo-type, place new copper washers on both sides of the banjo fitting, torque banjo bolt to spec (commonly 20–35 Nm; check manual). If pipe fitting, use flare wrench and ensure leak-free engagement. Never reuse crush washers.

7) Refill and bleed hydraulic system
- Fill master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 4 (or manufacturer-specified) fluid.
- Bleeding methods (choose one):

A) Two-person bleed (common):
- Person A slowly depresses clutch pedal several times and holds it to the floor.
- Person B opens slave cylinder bleed nipple with a wrench, attaches clear hose to nipple, and lets fluid/air out into a bottle until flow slows. Close nipple while pedal down.
- Person A releases pedal slowly. Repeat until no air bubbles and pedal is firm. Always keep reservoir topped up during bleeding to avoid introducing more air.

B) Vacuum bleeder (recommended for convenience):
- Attach a vacuum pump to the slave bleed nipple, pump to create vacuum, open nipple and let fluid draw out until clear and bubble-free. Keep reservoir topped.
- Close nipple, release vacuum, verify pedal firmness.

C) Pressure bleeder (fastest for single-person):
- Pressurize master cylinder reservoir per tool instructions, open bleed nipple until fluid runs clear, then close.

- Final steps: tighten bleed nipple to spec. Wipe away fluid.

8) Check and test
- Ensure all fittings and bolts are torqued and leak-free.
- Top up fluid to correct level and replace reservoir cap.
- Reinstall wheel/undertray, lower vehicle.
- Press clutch pedal by hand to verify firm feel. Start engine and check clutch engagement while stationary (careful parking brake on). Road test at low speed checking clutch engagement, no noise, and no leaks.
- Recheck fluid level after a short drive and inspect for leaks.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Rounding hydraulic fittings: use a flare/line wrench and penetrating oil. If rounded badly, replace line fitting rather than risking leaks.
- Reusing crush washers: always replace banjo bolt crush washers — old ones leak.
- Introducing air: don’t let reservoir run dry during bleeding. Keep reservoir topped.
- Wrong fluid: use the correct DOT fluid (DOT 4 usually). Mixing incorrect fluid can damage seals.
- Not seating pushrod correctly: ensure the pushrod engages the fork correctly; misalignment can cause improper clutch operation.
- Over-tightening banjo or mounting bolts: use torque wrench and correct specs. Over-torquing can shear bolts or crush washers incorrectly.
- Paint damage: brake fluid damages paint — protect surfaces and rinse spills immediately.
- Assuming all problems fixed: if pedal still spongy after thorough bleeding, inspect master cylinder, lines, and clutch hydraulics for leaks or internal master cylinder failure.
- Incorrect part: some models use concentric slave cylinders inside the bellhousing — verify external vs concentric and get the correct part for F9Q1/F9Q2 application.

Notes on service data
- Exact torque values and any pushrod length/adjustment specs are model-specific; use the vehicle’s service manual for final torque numbers and any special procedures (some Renault-based cars have specific bleeding sequences).

End checklist before finishing
- All bolts torqued to spec
- No leaks at fittings or around cylinder
- Fluid at correct level
- Firm pedal feel, correct clutch engagement
- Clean work area and properly disposed fluid

Done.
rteeqp73

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

Надежный или неудачный? Разбираем все проблемы дизел... Двигатель F9Q, появившийся в 1997 году на Renault Megane, стал первым французским дизелем с непосредственным ...

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rteeqp73