- Safety and setup
- Work only on a level surface, handbrake on, engine cool for several hours (hot exhaust burns).
- Chock front wheels (if working at rear) to prevent the car rolling.
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, and long sleeves; have a fire extinguisher nearby if you cut metal.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use jack stands rated for your vehicle weight.

- What "muffler" means here
- The muffler (rear silencer) is the rear section of the exhaust that reduces noise. On Renault/Mitsubishi F9Q cars you will typically remove the rear silencer and associated pipe clamps/hangers; sometimes the intermediate pipe or clamps/gaskets must be replaced.

- Basic tools you likely already have (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: Low-profile jack with a handle to pump hydraulic fluid to lift the car.
- How to use: Place under the car's jacking point, pump until desired height is reached, then lower vehicle onto jack stands; do not work under a car supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Description: Adjustable metal stands that support the car once lifted.
- How to use: Place under manufacturer-recommended support points and lower the car onto them; set the pin/ratchet to lock height.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Wedges placed behind wheels to stop movement.
- How to use: Put them behind the wheels on the ground before lifting.
- Socket set (metric) with ratchet
- Description: Set of metric sockets (10–19 mm common sizes) and a ratchet handle; includes extensions.
- How to use: Fit correct socket to nut/bolt, use ratchet to loosen/tighten; use extensions to reach tight places.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Description: Open/box-end wrenches for bolts where sockets won't fit.
- How to use: Use the correct size; box end gives better grip, open end good for quick turning.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist Penetrant)
- Description: Liquid that soaks into rusty threads to free seized bolts.
- How to use: Spray on nuts/bolts, wait 10–30 minutes, reapply if needed, tap lightly with a hammer to help penetration.
- Breaker bar
- Description: Long non-ratcheting bar used for extra leverage.
- How to use: Fit a socket to the bar, apply steady pressure to break very tight bolts; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench
- Description: Wrench that clicks at set torque to tighten fasteners to specification.
- How to use: Set desired torque, tighten until it clicks; prevents under- or over-tightening.
- Exhaust hanger removal tool or large flathead screwdriver / pry bar
- Description: Tool shaped to pry rubber hangers off metal pegs easily.
- How to use: Push hanger toward muffler, slip tool between hanger and peg, pry down to free; protect hanger with cloth if reusing.
- Wire brush / wire wheel on drill
- Description: Cleans rust and old gasket material from flanges or pipe ends.
- How to use: Scrub mating surfaces until clean metal is visible; use drill attachment for faster work.
- Hammer and mallet
- Description: Metal hammer and rubber mallet for persuading stuck parts.
- How to use: Tap bolts/nuts gently to break corrosion; use rubber mallet to reposition parts without denting.
- Reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade or angle grinder with cutoff wheel (extra, see below)
- Description: Power tool to cut rusted exhaust sections that cannot be unbolted.
- How to use: Use cutting blades rated for metal, hold guard firmly, cut with slow steady strokes; wear respirator and eye protection.
- Exhaust clamps and gaskets (new)
- Description: U-clamps or band clamps and ring gaskets used to seal pipe joints.
- How to use: Position gasket between pipe ends, fit clamp over joint, tighten evenly with wrench and torque wrench if specified.
- Replacement muffler (OEM or aftermarket)
- Description: Direct-fit or universal muffler sized for your vehicle; direct-fit matches hanger locations and pipe diameters.
- How to use: Fit onto pipe, install gaskets/clamps/hangers, tighten to seal.
- O2 sensor socket (if applicable)
- Description: Socket with a slot to clear O2 sensor wire when removing a sensor.
- How to use: Fit over sensor hex and loosen with ratchet if sensor must be removed.

- Recommended extra tools (why they may be required)
- Reciprocating saw or angle grinder
- Why required: Exhaust bolts and flanges are often heavily rusted; cutting may be the only way to separate sections.
- Heat gun or propane torch (use with caution)
- Why required: Heating a seized nut can expand metal and break corrosion bond; must be used outdoors with care.
- Exhaust paste/sealant
- Why required: Helps seal small leaks where pipes meet, especially on universal repairs.
- New rubber hangers / mounting hardware
- Why required: Original hangers often dry-rot; new hangers prevent rattling and premature failure.
- Replacement clamps or OEM flanges
- Why required: Corroded clamps won’t tighten or seal; flanged connections may have ruined bolts and need replacement.

- How to decide whether part replacement is required (inspection cues)
- Visual holes, large rusted-through areas, or flapping metal = replace the muffler.
- Loud exhaust noise that changes with RPM, rattling, or internal baffles failing = replace.
- Small leaks at a clamp/flange may be repairable by replacing clamps/gasket and reseating; large corrosion at pipe ends may need entire rear silencer or pipe replaced.
- If hangers are broken or heavily worn, replace hangers even if muffler body is fine.
- If the catalytic converter or sensor upstream is damaged, that’s a separate repair and must be replaced by part number specific to the vehicle.

- Typical replacement parts you may need
- Rear muffler (direct-fit OE replacement or a quality aftermarket equivalent)
- Exhaust gasket(s) for flanged joints (if present)
- Exhaust clamps (U-bolt style or band clamps sized to pipe diameter)
- Rubber hangers/mounts
- Short section of pipe or intermediate pipe (if pipes are damaged or cut)
- Bolts/nuts/studs for flange connections (often sell as kits)

- Step-by-step procedure (bulleted)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, allow exhaust to cool completely.
- Raise the rear of the car with the floor jack at the manufacturer jacking point and support with jack stands.
- Locate the muffler and note hanger locations, clamp positions, and any flanged joints; photo-document for reassembly.
- Spray penetrating oil liberally on every nut/bolt and on the hangers’ peg/eye; wait 10–20 minutes and reapply if needed.
- If there are bolts at a flange, use the socket/ratchet or breaker bar to loosen them; use penetrating oil and breaker bar leverage if seized. If still stuck, apply heat carefully or cut the bolt off.
- Remove clamps by loosening nuts; slide clamp back off the joint. If the clamp is welded or seized, you may need to cut the pipe near the joint with a saw or grinder.
- Pry the rubber exhaust hangers off their pegs using the hanger tool or a pry bar/large screwdriver; protect the hangers with a cloth if you intend to reuse them.
- Remove the muffler assembly. If it’s heavy, support it so it doesn’t drop and damage other parts.
- Inspect mating pipe ends, clean with a wire brush to remove rust or residue so new gasket/clamp can seal.
- Compare new muffler inlet/outlet diameters and hanger locations to the old part; if you bought a direct-fit unit they should match.
- Fit any required gasket onto the pipe flange or coat pipe end with a thin layer of exhaust sealant if using a clamp-style joint (follow sealant instructions).
- Slide the new muffler onto the pipe and into hangers. If a clamp is used, position clamp over joint before sliding fully home so you can tighten it.
- Hand-tighten clamp nuts first to allow adjustment, then tighten gradually and evenly with the socket/ratchet. Finish tightening with a torque wrench to the manufacturer’s specification if available (typical clamp torque is modest — check parts or manual; tighten until firm and clamp mates evenly).
- Inspect alignment so the muffler and tailpipe are centered in bumper cutouts and hangers are not under tension.
- Lower the car from the jack stands and start the engine. Listen and feel for leaks and rattles; retighten clamps after the first heat cycle if needed.
- Re-torque clamps and bolts after a short test drive once everything has expanded and seated.

- How to use the tools during steps (quick references)
- Jack and jack stands: Lift only at jacking points; always support on stands before crawling under.
- Penetrating oil: Spray, wait, then try loosening; repeat if needed.
- Ratchet/socket: Use for removing nuts; if a socket slips, switch to a box-end wrench for better grip.
- Breaker bar: Use for stubborn fasteners; keep body clear in case the bar slips.
- Hanger tool/pry bar: Place under rubber hanger and lever away from peg; work slowly to avoid tearing the hanger.
- Reciprocating saw/grinder: Cut slowly; keep sparks away from fuel lines and boots; use a mask for dust.
- Torque wrench: Set required torque and tighten until it clicks; store it at 0 after use to preserve calibration.

- Common beginner pitfalls and quick fixes
- Forcing seized bolts without penetrating oil often rounds heads — use penetrating oil + breaker bar or cut and replace the bolt.
- Reusing very rusty clamps usually leads to leaks — replace clamps.
- Misaligned hangers lead to stress and premature failure — adjust before final torque.
- Not supporting the muffler weight while removing bolts can cause it to fall and injure you or damage parts — always hold or support.

- Disposal and final checks
- Dispose of the old muffler and clamps at a scrap metal center or local recycling. Some shops accept old parts.
- Re-check for leaks after 50–100 km and re-torque clamps if necessary.
- If noise or vibration continues, inspect hangers and intermediate pipes; consider replacing the entire section rather than piecemeal.

- If you are uncomfortable or if there are welded connections / catalytic or sensor involvement
- Seek a professional exhaust shop; cutting and welding require experience and a safe workspace. Replacing flanges, welded sections, or catalytic converters is more advanced and may require specialized tools and legal compliance.

End.
rteeqp73

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Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (8–24 mm), deep sockets, extensions, 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (capable 5–150 Nm)
- Crankshaft/harmonic balancer puller (3‑arm or correct Renault/Mitsubishi type)
- Water‑pump pulley puller / small gear puller (if pulley is press‑fit)
- Cam/crank locking/timing pin set for Renault F9Q (or factory timing tool kit)
- Long 1/2" ratchet or serpentine belt tensioner tool
- Allen/hex set, screwdrivers, pliers
- Drain pan, funnel, coolant, new gasket or O‑ring, threadlocker (blue), anti‑seize
- Jack and stands or ramps; engine support bar if several motor mounts removed
- Clean rags, safety glasses, gloves, torque specs / factory manual

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on a cold engine. Hot coolant/parts cause severe burns.
- Park on level ground, engage handbrake, chock wheels. Use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before removing belt/pulleys.
- Drain coolant into a container and dispose/recapture per local regs.
- Use cam/crank locking tools — do not rely on marks alone when parts are detached.
- Wear safety glasses when using pullers; keep hands clear of rotating parts.
- If you must support engine weight (motor mount removal), use an engine support bar or floor jack with wood block under oil pan.

Overview / notes before starting
- On the Renault/Mitsubishi F9Q1 / F9Q2 (1.9 dCi family) the water pump is driven by the timing belt; removing the water‑pump pulley usually requires removing timing belt access components and the timing belt itself. Treat this as a timing‑belt service: replace the belt, tensioner and idler(s) at the same time if they are not new.
- Have the factory repair manual or torque specs to hand. Bolts and tensioner preload specs must be followed.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Prep
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery. Let engine cool.
- Drain coolant to below water‑pump level into a drain pan.

2) Remove accessory drive items
- Remove engine undertray / splash shield and any obstructing brackets.
- Release accessory/serpentine belt tensioner, remove belt from pulleys and set aside.

3) Remove crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer)
- Remove the central crank bolt (use long breaker bar or impact—use holding tool on flywheel if necessary to prevent rotation).
- Fit crank pulley puller and extract pulley carefully. Do not hammer on pulley; pulleys on F9Q can be tightly seated and can damage the seal if forced.

4) Remove timing covers
- Unbolt and remove upper and lower timing belt covers to expose timing belt and pulleys.

5) Lock engine at TDC and secure
- Rotate engine to TDC on compression stroke for cylinder 1 and align timing marks.
- Install camshaft and crankshaft locking pins (factory tool) to prevent movement. Do not skip this — if cam/crank move relative to each other you must re‑set timing precisely.

6) Remove timing belt
- Loosen timing belt tensioner and remove timing belt. Keep belt routing and marks visible for reference if reusing (but you should replace the belt).
- Inspect idlers/tensioner; plan to replace tensioner/idlers during reassembly.

7) Access water‑pump pulley
- With timing belt removed, you will have clear access to the water pump and its pulley.
- Remove the retaining bolts on the pump pulley (usually small hex/allen or torx bolts — check head type). Keep bolts organized. If bolts appear stretched or corroded, replace.

8) Remove the pump pulley
- If the pulley slides off easily, remove by hand.
- If it is press‑fitted, use a proper small gear/water‑pump pulley puller. Center the puller on the shaft and evenly draw the pulley off. Use a puller to avoid bending the pump shaft or damaging the pump housing.
- Avoid prying on the pump housing with screwdrivers—aluminum housings can crack.

9) If replacing only the pulley
- Clean the shaft and inner bore of the new pulley. Lightly oil the shaft if specified.
- Press/slide the new pulley into place. If interference fit, use a press or the puller in reverse (carefully) or gently heat the pulley (not the pump) to ease fit. Make sure the pulley seats fully against its stop.
- Install and torque pulley bolts to factory spec (do not over‑torque).

10) If replacing water pump
- Unbolt the water pump from the block. Remove pump, clean mating surface thoroughly, remove old gasket material.
- Fit new gasket/O‑ring and new pump. Torque bolts in correct sequence and to spec. Fit new pulley to new pump if separate.
- Check the condition of the coolant seal on the pump shaft; replace pump if seal leaks.

11) Reinstall timing components
- Replace timing belt, tensioner and idlers if not already done. Route belt according to marks.
- Preload the tensioner and set tension to factory specification (important). Many tensioners have a specific method (turning to index, using gauge, or letting hydraulic tensioner set under tension). Follow factory procedure.
- Remove cam/crank locks and rotate engine by hand 2 full revolutions (using breaker bar at crank) and re‑check timing marks and tension. If marks do not align, stop and correct — do not run the engine.

12) Reassembly
- Reinstall timing covers, crank pulley (use correct crank bolt torque; use threadlocker if specified), accessory belt(s), and any removed components.
- Refill coolant with recommended type/mixture. Bleed cooling system of air following factory procedure (open bleed points, run engine to thermostat opening, top up).
- Reconnect negative battery.

13) Test
- Start engine, watch for leaks, abnormal noises from the timing area or water pump pulley.
- Re‑check coolant level after warm up and re‑torque pulley/bolts after a short test drive if manufacturer recommends.

How each special tool is used (short)
- Crankshaft puller: threads into pulley center or onto bosses and uses a central forcing screw to draw the pulley off the crank snout evenly. Always center the forcing screw on the crank snout face to avoid cocking.
- Water‑pump pulley puller: clamps to pulley (or uses center adapter) and draws the pulley straight off the shaft. Use even pressure and protect pump housing.
- Cam/crank locking pins (timing tool): insert into pre‑drilled holes/bosses on cam and crank to lock them at TDC. Install exactly as manual states — they prevent rotation while belt/tensioner removed.
- Serpentine tensioner tool: engages the tensioner square/hex to relieve tension to slip belt off.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not using locking tools: leads to loss of timing and potential engine damage. Always lock cam/crank before removing belt.
- Reusing old timing belt/tensioner/idlers: high risk of failure — replace as a set.
- Damaging the crankshaft seal or pump housing during puller use: use correct puller and press/pull straight; support housing.
- Incorrect belt tension: too loose → jump teeth; too tight → bearing/tensioner failure. Follow factory method/spec.
- Forgetting to bleed coolant of air: causes overheating. Use proper bleed procedure.
- Over‑torquing small bolts or using the wrong threadlocker: strip aluminium threads. Replace damaged bolts and use correct torque values.
- Failing to rotate engine by hand and recheck marks after reassembly: may mask misalignment. Always rotate two full turns and re‑check.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Water‑pump pulley (if damaged)
- Water pump and gasket/O‑ring (recommended if pulley required removal)
- Timing belt, tensioner, idlers (strongly recommended together)
- Crank pulley bolt (inspect; replace if torque‑to‑yield or damaged)
- Coolant

Final notes
- This job is effectively a timing‑belt service on the F9Q family. If you are not equipped with the correct Renault timing tools or comfortable setting timing precisely, have the job done or get the correct tool kit and the factory procedure printed out.
- Follow factory torque specs and timing procedures exactly. Failure there risks catastrophic engine damage.

No further questions.
rteeqp73