Below is a compact, workshop‑style, theory‑plus‑practical procedure to test, adjust and replace the throttle‑position sensor (TPS) used on Fiat/Fiatagri tractors in the 55–100 series you listed. Steps are in order; theory is given where it matters; expected readings and how the repair corrects symptoms are explained. Safety first: chock wheels, set parking brake, props/blocks where needed, work with engine cold where possible, disconnect battery when removing electrical parts.

1) What the TPS does (theory, short)
- The TPS is a variable potentiometer or sensor mounted on the throttle lever/shaft. It provides the engine control electronics (ECU, governor controller or throttle limiter) a voltage or resistance proportional to throttle/lever angle.
- The ECU/gov uses that signal to set fuel delivery, governor behavior, cruise/PTO limits, or interlocks. A bad TPS gives wrong or noisy position info → poor throttle response, surging, no idle control, high idle, loss of power or limp behavior.
- Typical sensors are 3‑wire: reference (usually 5 V from ECU), signal (output), and ground. Output is ~0.5–1.0 V at closed throttle, rises smoothly to ~4.0–4.5 V at full throttle (exact figures depend on system). Some units are simple potentiometers (resistance ~1–20 kΩ).

2) Tools and equipment
- Digital multimeter (DC volts, ohms)
- Small screwdriver set, torx/hex sockets as needed for sensor screws
- Insulated pliers, electrical cleaner (contact cleaner)
- Replacement TPS if needed (OEM or equivalent)
- Spray carb cleaner or electrical contact cleaner, rags
- Battery disconnect tools
- Small digital camera or marker to note lever position before removal

3) Preliminary checks (quick, in‑cab)
- Note symptoms and record engine behaviour: idle roughness, surging, no response, limited RPM, fault codes if ECU has diagnostics.
- Visual inspection: check wiring harness to TPS for broken wires, chafing, corrosion, wetness, connector corrosion. Repair broken wires before testing sensor.

4) Identify pins and reference voltage (theory + test)
- Reconnect battery. Backprobe connector or remove connector housing to get to pins.
- With ignition ON (engine off), measure between ground pin and reference pin for the sensor: you should see approx. 5 V (some systems may use 3.3 V or other; if you see ~12 V the system differs — do not assume 12 V; treat as abnormal). Record reference voltage.
- If no reference or reference unstable, fault may be ECU/gov supply — stop and diagnose supply wiring first.

5) Static voltage sweep test (ordered steps)
- Set meter to DC volts. Backprobe the signal pin (signal to ground).
- With throttle at closed (idle) position: note signal voltage. Typical: ~0.5–1.0 V. Record.
- Slowly move throttle lever to wide open throttle (WOT) while watching meter: voltage should rise smoothly and continuously to maximum (typical ~4.0–4.5 V) with no sudden jumps or drops and no dead spots.
- If voltage is noisy, jumps, drops out to 0 V, or is outside expected range → sensor is faulty or wiring intermittent.

6) Resistance (ohm) sweep test (if sensor removed or circuit allows)
- With battery disconnected, remove connector. Measure resistance between the outer two terminals (end‑to‑end) — this is total potentiometer resistance (typical 1–20 kΩ). Then measure between one outer and the wiper while moving throttle: resistance should change smoothly and linearly with lever movement.
- Open circuit, infinite or erratic resistance → replace.

7) Intermittent/noise check (theory)
- Wiggle the wiring and connector while watching voltage: any intermittent changes indicate broken wire or poor connector.
- Spray contact cleaner into connector, recheck. If problem persists, repair wiring or replace connector.

8) Adjustment / calibration (how to set)
- If sensor passes electrical tests but idle or full‑travel voltage off by a little, you can adjust it mechanically:
a) Loosen the TPS mounting screws just enough to rotate body.
b) With ignition ON and engine OFF, set throttle to closed (idle lever stop). Adjust sensor body until signal voltage equals the specified idle voltage (target ~0.5–1.0 V; factory spec should be used if available).
c) Slowly open throttle to full and check max voltage; it should be within expected full‑scale range.
d) Tighten screws, recheck to ensure nothing moved. Start engine and verify idle and throttle response.
- How this fixes faults: correct alignment ensures the ECU sees the true idle position and full‑travel voltage so fuel and governor control are correct.

9) Removal and replacement (ordered)
- Mark throttle lever position relative to sensor before removal (photo or scribe mark) so new sensor mounts in same orientation.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Unplug TPS connector.
- Remove mounting screws and carefully withdraw sensor (note any spacer or gasket).
- Inspect throttle shaft/bore for wear; if excessively worn, shaft play may cause new TPS wear or wrong reading — repair if needed.
- Fit new TPS in same orientation, loosely install screws.
- Reconnect battery, backprobe signal, and adjust sensor as above (idle voltage → tighten screws).
- Secure wiring, apply dielectric grease to connector if desired, start engine and test.

10) Final functional checks
- With engine running: verify smooth throttle response across range. Check for idle stability, no surging.
- Road/field test under load; verify full power and correct behavior of any cruise/PTO interlocks tied to TPS.
- If ECU stores fault codes, clear and recheck for recurrence.

11) Common fault types and how repair corrects them
- Symptom: Eng. surges or hunts at idle. Cause: noisy TPS signal (worn potentiometer produces spiky voltage). Repair fixes it by restoring smooth analog signal so control loop stabilizes.
- Symptom: No response or limp power. Cause: TPS output stuck low/high or open → ECU limits fuel or disables functions. Replacing sensor restores correct position info so normal fueling resumes.
- Symptom: Sudden loss of throttle or intermittent power. Cause: wiring/connector break or intermittent contact. Repairing solder/crimp or replacing connector reestablishes continuous signal.
- Symptom: Wrong idle RPM. Cause: misaligned sensor. Adjustment to correct idle voltage returns idle setpoint to normal.
- Symptom: Engine runs but full throttle not reached. Cause: TPS max voltage low (mechanical misalignment or worn sensor). Replacement/adjustment restores full‑scale reading so fuel delivery increases correctly.

12) When to replace rather than adjust
- Voltage jumps, dead spots, erratic/unsteady sweep, open circuit, or total resistance out of spec → replace.
- Excessive shaft play or worn bore → replace TPS and repair throttle shaft if needed.
- Water/corrosion inside sensor, burnt smell, or mechanical damage → replace.

13) Quick reference expected values (approximate)
- Reference voltage: ~5.0 V (check manufacturer)
- Closed throttle signal: ~0.5–1.0 V
- Full throttle signal: ~4.0–4.5 V
- Potentiometer total resistance: typically 1–20 kΩ (measure and compare to new part spec)

14) Notes and cautions
- Do not rely on assumed 12 V reference — verify. Supplying wrong voltage can destroy a sensor.
- Some Fiat tractors use governor-only mechanical systems without an ECU TPS function; on those models the "TPS" may be an idle potentiometer or specific aftermarket ECU sensor — confirm function by testing signal behavior.
- If the ECU or governor is suspected faulty (no reference or unstable supply), do not replace TPS first — diagnose supply circuit.

Summary: Test the sensor electrically (reference, smooth sweep, correct end values), verify wiring/connectors, adjust mechanical orientation to set idle/full‑scale voltages, and replace the sensor if voltages are erratic, out of spec or resistance is faulty. The repair restores a stable, correct throttle position signal to the engine controller/governor, which corrects poor idle, throttle response, power limitation or surging caused by a bad or misaligned TPS.
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