1) Quick definition and symptoms (so you know what you’re fixing)
- Lifters (tappets) are the interface between cam lobes and pushrods/rocker arms. Two types: hydraulic (self-adjusting, use oil to eliminate lash) and solid/mechanical (require set valve clearance).
- Typical faults: loud ticking/knock over valves, misfire/rough running, loss of power, uneven valve seating (low compression), accelerated cam lobe wear.
- Root causes: collapsed or blocked hydraulic lifter, worn lifter face, clogged oil feed passages, stuck plunger, improper valve lash (mechanical), worn pushrod/rocker or cam.

2) Theory (how the parts work and why faults cause symptoms)
- Hydraulic lifter theory: a body contains a small plunger and a check valve. Engine oil pressurizes the lifter and pushes the plunger out to take up clearance between cam and valve train. When the plunger collapses or oil flow is restricted, clearance appears and the valve train bangs (noise), valve timing/closure changes and compression/power fall.
- Mechanical lifter theory: fixed height tappet that must have a specified clearance (lash) so valves fully close at the right time. Too much lash = noise and late/insufficient valve lift; too little = valves not fully closed, burning, loss of compression.
- How repair fixes it: restoring correct preload or clearance (by replacing/cleaning/setting lifters) removes excess clearance, restores correct valve timing and seating, eliminates the hammering loads that cause noise and cam wear, and restores compression and smooth running. Cleaning/repair also restores oil feed to hydraulic lifters so they can maintain preload.

3) Preparation (tools, parts, safety)
- Required: service manual for your exact Fiat model (torques, clearances, sequence), good quality replacement lifters or a lifter set, new rocker cover gasket, basic hand tools, torque wrench, feeler gauges (for mechanical), clean oil, parts trays, solvent, paper towels, magnetic pick-up, small dial indicator (optional), compressed air/ultrasonic cleaner (optional).
- Safety: disconnect battery, work on cool engine, support tractor securely, keep dirt out of the cylinder head.

4) Diagnosis sequence (ordered checks before teardown)
1. Listen and localize the noise with the engine at idle and at speed (use a long screwdriver stethoscope). Confirm noise comes from valve cover area/cam area.
2. Check oil level and condition; low oil or very dirty oil commonly causes hydraulic lifter complaints.
3. Check oil pressure (service manual spec). Low oil pressure means lifters won’t fill.
4. Remove valve cover(s) and inspect rocker assembly, pushrods and lifter bores for leaks, sludge or metal.
5. Rotate engine slowly by hand to TDC on each cylinder and observe pushrod movement; excessive play indicates lifter problem.
6. Compression or leak-down test on suspicious cylinders to confirm valve sealing problems.

5) Removal and inspection (ordered workshop steps)
1. Drain or catch any oil that will leak; remove air intake components as needed for access.
2. Remove valve cover(s) and gaskets; keep fasteners in order.
3. Mark or photograph rocker arm positions and pushrod locations so each pushrod goes back into its original bore (important).
4. Rotate engine to TDC for cylinder 1 (base circle on cam lobe for that cylinder). This puts lifter on base circle for removal if needed.
5. Loosen and remove rocker arms or the rocker shaft assembly per manual so pushrods can be removed. Keep pushrods in order, standing them upright in order.
6. Remove pushrods and inspect straightness and wear at ends.
7. Extract lifters: either drop them out of lifter bores following manual (some engines require camshaft or lifter retainer removal). Keep lifter bores covered to prevent dirt entry.
8. Inspect lifters:
- Hydraulic: plunger must move smoothly with some resistance and hold position when compressed; look for collapsed units (no plunger travel), scoring, clogged oil holes, or sludge. If you can compress a hydraulic lifter easily with finger or tool and it doesn’t build back up when placed under oil pressure, it’s failed.
- Mechanical: check top face for concavity/wear, measure the length against spec.
- Check cam lobes and follower faces for pitting, glazing or wear; score marks indicate deeper issues.
9. Inspect lifter bores for sludge or scoring; inspect oil feed holes for blockage.

6) Bench testing and decision
- Hydraulic lifters: attempt cleaning (ultrasonic and strong solvent) only if moderately contaminated; if collapsed or pitted, replace. Bench test by filling with clean oil: push plunger down and see if it returns. If sticky or won’t hold oil pressure, replace.
- Mechanical lifters: replace if face worn or out of spec. Replace in matched sets if cam wear is evident.
- If multiple lifters failed, likely oil feed or cam wear — inspect cam and consider camshaft replacement.

7) Repair / replacement procedure (ordered)
1. If cam lobes are badly worn, replace camshaft and lifters as a set. If only a few lifters failed and cam is OK, replace failed lifters and clean system.
2. Clean lifter bores and oil passages thoroughly. Blow out oil galleries to ensure lifter feed holes are open.
3. Fit new or restored lifters into original bore positions (unless replacing cam etc). For hydraulic lifters, prime them: submerge in clean engine oil and compress repeatedly until oil fills the plunger cavity.
4. Reinstall lifters and pushrods in their original order. Ensure pushrods seat properly in lifter cups and rocker ends.
5. Reinstall rocker arms/shaft per manual. Torque fasteners to factory specs and in the correct sequence.
6. Valve adjustment:
- Mechanical lifters: set valve lash cold/hot as specified by the manual with feeler gauge. Typical sequence: rotate engine to TDC and set intake/exhaust clearances per cylinder order.
- Hydraulic lifters (if adjustable rockers): set preload per procedure — commonly: loosen rocker nut, rotate to base circle, tighten nut until slight resistance then back off a fixed amount or tighten to spec then rotate a set amount; follow model-specific hydraulic preload procedure in the workshop manual. If non-adjustable hydraulic systems, simply torque rocker mounting and ensure lifters are primed.
7. Reinstall valve cover with new gasket, torque to spec.
8. Refill/replace oil and filter if oil contamination suspected.
9. Start engine and run at idle. Listen for noise. Re-torque rocker fasteners after warm-up if manual requires.

8) How each repair action fixes the fault (concise cause→fix relationship)
- Replacing a collapsed hydraulic lifter: restores the oil-filled plunger that removes lash; noise stops, valve closure timing returns to spec, compression restored.
- Cleaning blocked oil passages and priming lifters: restores oil supply so hydraulic lifters can operate; prevents starvation-related collapse and noise.
- Replacing worn lifter faces or mechanical lifters and setting correct lash: restores correct valve lift and seating geometry; prevents leakage at the valve seat, restores compression and reduces noise.
- Replacing camshaft when lobes are worn: prevents rapid repeat failure of new lifters and restores correct valve lift profile and timing.
- Replacing bent/worn pushrods or rocker components: ensures accurate transfer of cam motion to valves, preventing misalignment and premature wear.

9) Final checks and prevention
- After repair, verify oil pressure at idle and under load, run the engine through warm-up cycles and recheck clearances where required.
- Recheck for oil leaks, re-listen at different RPMs.
- Prevent recurrence: keep oil and filter changes on schedule, use correct oil viscosity, ensure oil pickup/sump not clogged, keep engine clean to avoid sludge.

10) Notes specific to Fiat tractor series
- These Fiat models use both hydraulic and mechanical setups depending on engine/build year. Use the exact workshop manual for model-specific preload/adjustment sequences and torque values. If cam and lifters are replaced, follow timing and cam phasing procedures in the manual.

That is the ordered workshop procedure plus the theory and exactly how each repair action resolves the symptoms.
rteeqp73

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- Purpose and quick overview
- Replacing the front strut/shock absorber restores ride control, steering stability and prevents further damage. Procedure below assumes front strut/shock on Fiat 55-60 / 60-90 / 79-90 / 80-90 / 90-90 / 100-90 family (telescopic shocks or strut-like front dampers). If your tractor has a different front suspension, adapt using the same safety and basic removal/fit principles.

- Safety first
- Work on firm, level ground with engine off, keys removed.
- Engage parking brake and block rear wheels.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always support the machine with rated axle stands or suitable supports.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots.

- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Socket set (metric, 10–32 mm common) and ratchet
- Use the correct socket size that fits the bolt head. Turn ratchet clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen. Use long-handled ratchet for leverage on tight bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open + box end)
- Useful where a socket cannot reach. Use box end for final turning to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (range covering approx. 20–200 Nm or imperial equivalent)
- Calibrated tool to tighten bolts to manufacturer torque. Set desired torque and apply steady force until it “clicks.” Prevents over- or under-tightening.
- Breaker bar (long handled non-ratcheting bar)
- Provides high leverage to break loose seized bolts. Fit socket on end and apply steady force.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Apply to rusty or seized bolts, let soak 10–30 minutes to ease removal.
- Hammer (ball-peen or dead-blow)
- Tap stuck components or pins free. Use dead-blow to reduce damage.
- Punch / drift and cold chisel
- Drive out split pins, roll pins or stubborn bolts once loosened.
- Pry bar (medium)
- Separate bushings or lever the shock out of its mount.
- Vice grips / locking pliers
- Hold rounded nuts or turn where wrenches slip. Use carefully to avoid damage.
- Jack (hydraulic trolley jack or heavy farm jack rated for tractor weight on front axle)
- Lift the front so wheel is off ground. Use only to lift — do not work under machine on jack alone.
- Axle stands / blocks / timber cribbing rated for load
- Support tractor securely after lifting. Place under axle or frame manufacturer-recommended points.
- Wheel chocks
- Block rear wheels to prevent rolling.
- Impact wrench (12V/air/electric) — optional but speeds removal
- Use to quickly remove tight wheel or mount bolts. If used, follow up with torque wrench to achieve correct torque.
- Grease, anti-seize compound and thread locker (Loctite)
- Anti-seize on bolts that may corrode; thread locker where bolts must not back out. Grease for bushings where specified.
- New parts and fasteners (see parts list below)
- Always have replacement mounting hardware if originals are corroded or damaged.
- Shop light, wire brush, rags
- Improve visibility and clean parts before reassembly.

- Extra tools you may need and why
- Hydraulic press or bushing driver set
- Needed if old bushings/pins are pressed in; avoids damaging housing.
- Ball joint separator / puller
- If tie rod ends or lower control components block access and must be separated.
- Service manual for your exact model
- Required for correct torque specs, lift points, and any model-specific steps. Saves trial-and-error and prevents damage.

- Parts that commonly require replacement and why
- Strut / shock absorber assembly
- Worn seals, leaking oil, reduced damping or broken internal components means replace the entire shock.
- Mounting bolts, nuts, washers, and split pins
- Often corroded or stretched; always replace if damaged. New hardware ensures correct clamping and safety.
- Rubber bushings or poly bushes
- Worn bushings cause play and noise; replace to restore correct alignment and damping.
- Pins, sleeves, circlips or shims
- Pins can wear; new sleeves prevent premature wear and ensure correct fit.
- Spring components (if fitted) or top mounts
- If top mount is worn, it transfers noise and vibration; replace as needed.
- Steering link / tie rod hardware (if disturbed)
- If you separate steering links, inspect for wear and replace if loose or damaged.

- Preparatory checks and parts ordering
- Inspect the old shock: look for oil leaks, excess play, dented body or broken mounts. If leaking or soft on hand compression, replace.
- Order exact replacement shock/strut for your tractor model or a direct-fit aftermarket. Obtain new mounting bolts and bushings if corroded.
- Get the workshop/service manual PDF or printed copy for your exact model to confirm torque values and lift points.

- Removal procedure (stepwise actions in bullets)
- Park tractor on level ground, chock rear wheels, shut off engine and remove keys.
- Apply penetrating oil to strut mounting bolts and let sit 10–30 minutes.
- Loosen wheel nuts slightly if you must remove wheel; otherwise proceed to support front axle.
- Use jack under recommended lift point to raise front enough to remove wheel and relieve load from strut; place axle stands or timber cribbing under axle/frame securely.
- Remove wheel if it blocks access to lower strut mount.
- Identify upper and lower strut mounts: top mount is near chassis/frame; bottom mount is pinned to axle bracket or lower link.
- Support the strut with a jack or stand while you remove mounting hardware so it does not drop suddenly.
- Remove lower mounting bolt(s) or split pin(s):
- Use appropriate socket/wrench; apply breaker bar if seized.
- If a split pin or circlip is present, use punch and hammer or pliers to remove.
- Remove upper mount nuts/bolts:
- Hold the strut while removing to prevent it falling. If accessible from inside cab/crossmember, remove studs/nuts accordingly.
- Remove the strut assembly:
- Pry out lower eye from bracket if it is seized; use hammer/punch lightly on the bolt end to free.
- Slide out bushings and sleeves; note orientation and any shims for reinstallation.
- Clean mounting surfaces and inspect brackets for damage or excessive corrosion; wire-brush and clean.
- Fit new bushings and sleeves onto the replacement strut before installation if required; apply a light coat of grease or anti-seize where specified.
- Position new strut, align upper mount and loosely fit upper nuts/bolts to hold it in place.
- Lower support and align lower eye into bracket, insert new bolt/pin and fit new washers/nuts; use threadlocker or anti-seize per manual.
- With tractor weight supported on axle stands (not lowered fully), tighten bolts initially so everything seats; then lower tractor to normal ride height (or follow manual instructions) before final torque.
- Torque all mounting bolts to manufacturer specifications using a torque wrench. If you lack the exact torque spec, tighten to firm hand setting and have manual values confirmed before operation.
- Reinstall wheel and torque wheel nuts in a star pattern to correct torque if applicable.
- Remove chocks and lower tractor from stands only after confirming everything is secure.

- Alignment and post-install checks
- Check steering symmetry and tie-rod end tightness. If you disturbed steering geometry, get a professional alignment.
- Test drive slowly and listen for noises, check for oil leaks and confirm damping performance.
- Re-torque bolts after 100 km of operation.

- Common problems and troubleshooting
- Bolt won’t budge: apply penetrating oil, heat gently (propane torch with care), use breaker bar. If rounded, use vice grips or extractors.
- Mount stuck in bracket: use penetrating oil, pry bar, and gentle hammer taps on the pin end; avoid pounding the bracket.
- New strut feels loose after install: ensure bushings and sleeves are correct orientation and bolts tightened to correct torque.

- Disposal and environmental
- Drained oil from a failed shock is hydraulic fluid — dispose of it at an approved hazardous waste facility.
- Old rubber and metal parts can be taken to a scrap yard or parts recycler.

- Final notes (short)
- If you are a complete beginner and any mounting bolts are seized, bushings are pressed, or access is restricted, consider getting help from a workshop with the correct lifting gear and press tools.
- Always follow the tractor’s service manual for torque specs and specific geometry details.

- Quick checklist of items to buy before you start
- Replacement strut/shock for your exact Fiat tractor model
- New mounting bolts/nuts/washers and bushings as needed
- Socket/wrench set, breaker bar, torque wrench, jack and axle stands
- Penetrating oil, grease/anti-seize, safety gear

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

Summary
Step-by-step procedure for removing and replacing the torque converter on Fiat/Fiatagri tractors in the 55‑60 / 60‑90 / 79‑90 / 80‑90 / 90‑90 / 100‑90 family. Procedure assumes an experienced mechanic, proper lifting equipment, and the workshop manual for model‑specific fastener torques, fluid types and capacities. Follow all shop safety rules.

Tools & equipment
- Full metric socket set (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives), deep sockets to cover long bolts
- Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
- Torque wrench (capable of engine/gearbox torque specs)
- Extension bars, universal joints
- Impact gun (optional, use carefully)
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with wood blocks and safety stands (rated capacity > gearbox weight)
- Engine support or hoist (in case engine must be held)
- Pry bars and large screwdrivers (protected with wood blocks to avoid damage)
- Flywheel / crank holding tool (to prevent rotation when removing bolts)
- Slide hammer or torque converter puller/adapter (if converter sticks)
- Needle‑nose pliers, snap ring pliers
- Flat chisel, wire brush, gasket scraper
- Seal driver or appropriate size socket for new seals
- Drain pans and funnels, rags, solvent, threadlocker (medium strength), anti-seize
- Gloves, safety glasses, steel‑toe boots
- Shop manual or service literature (for torque values, fluid types, splines/counts)
- Clean rags, lint‑free paper towels

Replacement parts and consumables
- Correct matched torque converter for your tractor model (confirm part number and spline count)
- New gearbox input shaft seal (input seal) and crankshaft rear seal / converter seal (replace whenever converter is removed)
- New bellhousing gasket(s) or sealant as required
- New bolts if the workshop manual calls for replacement (many flywheel/torque converter bolts are single‑use)
- Threadlocker (as specified)
- Gearbox oil and any converter/transmission fluid specified in manual
- Clean rags, cleaning solvent, new O‑rings/ seals (as applicable)

Safety precautions
- Work on a level, stable surface. Chock wheels; engage parking brake.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal before starting electrical work.
- Never place yourself under any unsupported heavy load. Support gearbox and engine with rated jacks/stands.
- Use lifting equipment rated above the weight being lifted (gearbox, torque converter).
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear when lowering or aligning heavy components.
- Drain fluids and dispose legally/environmentally safely.

General notes before starting
- Read the tractor workshop manual for model‑specific notes: torque specs, bolt replacement guidance, fluid types and capacities, and any special tools.
- Document locations of linkages, wiring, hoses and mark the orientation of removed components to ease re‑assembly.
- The torque converter is heavy and seated on splines; it often needs careful prying or a puller to remove.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Prepare tractor and drain fluids
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, engage park brake.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Drain gearbox/transmission oil into a catch pan (some tractors allow draining converter separately; consult manual). Remove oil filler to speed draining and avoid a vacuum.
- Remove any attachments or implements that restrict access.
Pitfall: don’t forget to support and cap open lines to prevent debris ingress.

2) Remove external components blocking access
- Remove bonnet/hood panels and grille for better access (keep fasteners organized).
- Remove exhaust pipe/manifold heat shields as needed, and air intake components that block bellhousing area.
- Disconnect PTO driveshaft or rear linkage if it blocks gearbox removal. Mark position of any splined shafts when removed.
- Label and disconnect electrical connectors, sensor wires, linkages, hyd lines and vent hoses from gearbox and bellhousing.
Pitfall: damage to wiring/hydraulic lines if not carefully labeled and moved out of the way.

3) Support gearbox and engine
- Place a transmission jack under the gearbox with a wood pad or cradle. Raise jack to take weight but do not lift yet.
- If the engine may tilt or be unsupported when gearbox is slid back, use an engine support bracket or hoist to steady the engine.
- Ensure the jack is on a stable base and the gearbox is secured to the jack with straps.
Pitfall: insufficient support will let components drop when bolts are removed — huge hazard.

4) Remove bellhousing and gearbox mounting bolts
- Remove all bellhousing-to-engine bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Keep bolts organized by length/location.
- Remove any cross‑members, brackets or mounting plates that secure the gearbox.
- Slowly lower the gearbox jack just enough to create a small gap between gearbox and engine to allow separation.
Pitfall: do not force separation. If stuck, check for missed bolts, and remove speedometer drive, selector rods, or detent linkages that may still be engaged.

5) Separate gearbox and expose torque converter
- Carefully pull gearbox rearwards on the jack away from the engine far enough to access the torque converter mounting area. On some models the gearbox will slide back 40–100 mm to expose the converter bolts; on others full removal of gearbox may be necessary.
- Stop when gearbox input shaft clears the crankshaft pilot and you can see the torque converter flange/boss.
- Secure gearbox in place on the jack to avoid damage.
Pitfall: the converter stays attached to the crank; excessive lateral force can damage input shaft splines. Back the gearbox straight out — no twisting.

6) Access and remove torque converter bolts
- Rotate the crank by hand (with flywheel holding tool) to access the torque converter/drive flange bolts. There are typically multiple bolts (6–12) threaded through the converter into the flexplate/crank flange.
- Use appropriate socket/extension to remove all converter bolts. Keep bolts in order.
- Some bolts may be tight or corroded — apply penetrating oil and let soak. Use breaker bar and possibly impact gun carefully.
Important: use flywheel holder to prevent crank rotation when loosening bolts.
Pitfall: stripped heads or broken bolts. If bolts break, extract carefully; damaged threads in flexplate/crank require repair.

7) Remove torque converter from crankshaft/flexplate
- With bolts removed, the converter may still be stuck on the crank pilot or splines. Using the transmission jack, gently push the gearbox farther back or use a pry bar across the bellhousing edge on both sides using wood to protect surfaces and carefully pry converter away until it clears pilot and splines.
- If converter is reluctant, use a torque converter puller/slide hammer attached to converter bolt holes (if design allows) or use stud adapters to pull it straight off.
- Support and lower converter onto a clean padded surface on the floor jack or separate cradle. Do not let it drop.
Pitfall: pry only at the converter body, not at the flexplate or crank. Avoid bending or scoring the splines.

8) Inspect components and replace seals
- Inspect converter splines and gearbox input shaft for wear or damage.
- Remove and replace the gearbox input seal and the rear crankshaft converter seal (rear main) as recommended. Clean sealing surfaces thoroughly and install new seals with seal driver.
- Inspect the flexplate/flywheel face for warpage, cracks, or damaged threaded holes. Replace or machine as needed.
- Clean bellhousing mating surfaces and remove old gasket/sealant.
Common pitfall: reusing old seals leads to immediate leaks; do replace seals.

9) Prepare and install new torque converter
- Confirm the new torque converter is the correct model (spline count, diameter, pilot fit).
- If the converter must be prefilled per manual, fill to specified level and rotate to lubricate internal pump until fluid weeps from fill hole; otherwise follow manual instructions.
- Carefully align converter on crank pilot and slide onto splines until it seats. It should slide on smoothly and there is a distinct seating when it engages fully. Avoid hitting with hammer.
- Rotate crank slightly to align bolt holes. Install bolts finger tight in a criss-cross pattern. Use threadlocker if specified.
- Torque bolts to the model‑specific torque sequence and values from the manual.
Pitfall: not seating the converter fully before bolting will result in misalignment and damage. Bolts must be torqued to spec.

10) Reinstall gearbox and align
- With the torque converter bolted, carefully push the gearbox forward onto the engine, aligning the input shaft with the converter hub. Use the transmission jack to raise the gearbox while guiding the input splines into the converter pilot.
- Ensure the gearbox engages straight; do not force. A small rotation of the crank or gearbox input may help spline alignment.
- Once full engagement is achieved, reinsert bellhousing bolts and tighten finger tight, then torque to specifications in a cross pattern.
Pitfall: cross-threading input splines or forcing the gearbox can damage input shaft or converter.

11) Reassemble external components
- Reconnect linkages, selector rods, speedometer drive, wiring, hydraulic lines, vent hoses, exhaust, air intake, and PTO shafts in the reverse order of removal.
- Install new bellhousing gaskets/sealant where used. Replace any single‑use bolts if required.
- Refill gearbox and converter fluids to the correct levels and type per the manual. Use funnel and clean fluid; run engine to circulate and recheck levels.
Pitfall: overfilling or wrong fluid type will cause damage. Bleed any air if necessary.

12) Final checks and testing
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and check for unusual noises, leaks around seals, and proper engagement of PTO/gearbox.
- With tractor safely chocked and on jack stands, run through gear selection to check bearing, sync, and converter function.
- Road/test under light load, recheck torque on critical bolts after first heat cycle if manual advises, and recheck fluid levels.
Pitfall: reluctance to test progressively — gradually load the tractor rather than full heavy-duty use immediately.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not using correct shop manual values: always refer to model manual for bolt torques, fluid types, and splines.
- Improperly supporting heavy parts: always use rated jacks and supports; never rely on hydraulic jack alone.
- Reusing seals and gaskets: always replace seals; reusing invites leaks.
- Forcing parts: if gearbox does not slide on easily, check alignment, missing dowels, or interferences rather than forcing.
- Broken or corroded bolts: apply penetrating oil ahead of time, heat carefully if needed, and be prepared to extract broken bolts.
- Not pre‑filling converter if required: some torque converters require prefill – follow the manual.
- Contamination: keep interior of converter and bellhousing clean; any dirt on seals reduces life.

Notes on specific Fiat models
- These Fiat tractor models are relatively similar in layout but may have differences in bellhousing bolts, converter bolt count, and fluid specification. Always confirm:
- Exact torque converter PN
- Bolt torque values and whether bolts are single‑use
- Whether gearbox input seal and crank rear seal are the same part numbers
- Fluid type and capacities

Post‑installation recommendations
- Re‑check torques after first 10 hours of operation if recommended.
- Inspect for leaks after initial run and again after several hours.
- Keep a maintenance log with parts used and torque values for future reference.

That’s the complete practical procedure. Follow the workshop manual for model‑specific torque figures, fluid types and capacities, and any special tools.
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