Job: Replace the intake manifold gasket (intake_gasket) on Fiat tractor series 55-60, 60-90, 79-90, 80-90, 90-90, 100-90. Procedure below is workshop-style, step-by-step with tools, safety, how tools are used, replacement parts and common pitfalls. Consult the factory service manual for model-specific bolt torque and tightening sequence—values noted are typical ranges only.

Tools & materials
- Metric socket set (6–24 mm), deep sockets for studs
- Ratchet and extensions
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm), 1/2" drive recommended
- Combination wrenches
- Screwdrivers (flat + Philips)
- Hex/Allen keys and Torx as needed
- Gasket scraper / razor blade / plastic scraper
- Wire brush and brake cleaner or diesel-safe degreaser
- Straightedge and feeler gauge (to check flange warpage)
- Pick set and small brushes
- Drain pan (coolant)
- Clean rags, lint-free shop towels
- New intake manifold gasket (correct part for engine)
- Replacement bolts/studs and washers if corroded or stretch-marked
- RTV silicone / gasket sealant only if manual specifies
- Anti-seize compound (on bolt threads only if specified)
- Thread locker (medium strength) only if specified by manual
- New coolant and funnel; hose clamps if needed
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, jack stands (if lifting), work light

Safety precautions
- Work on a cool engine. Hot coolant and metal = burns.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent shorts.
- Drain coolant into a container and dispose/recycle properly.
- Support heavy parts (turbo, intake manifold) before removing mounting bolts—manifold can be heavy and awkward.
- Keep dirt and debris out of intake and ports: stuff clean rags into ports if needed.
- Use eye protection when scraping and cleaning.
- Use jack stands if lifting tractor; never rely on a jack alone.

Replacement parts & consumables
- New intake manifold gasket (correct OEM or quality aftermarket)
- New manifold-to-head studs/bolts if corroded, stretched, or torque-to-yield type
- New turbo or intake pipe gaskets/ seals if applicable
- Coolant (as specified for the tractor)
- Optional: small tube of high-temp RTV only if manual calls for it (do not use where gasket is specified)
- New hose clamps, hoses if brittle or leaking

High-level procedure (step-by-step)
1) Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, engage parking brake, remove key, disconnect negative battery.
- Let engine cool completely.
- Gather all tools and replacement parts.

2) Drain coolant
- Place drain pan under radiator/cockpit drain.
- Open radiator drain and header tank cap to speed draining.
- Remove coolant hoses connected to intake manifold (label hoses for reassembly).

3) Remove air intake & associated components
- Remove air cleaner housing and ducting to manifold/turbo.
- Disconnect intake sensors, vacuum lines, and throttle linkage if present—label every connection.
- If tractor has turbo/intercooler, disconnect charge pipes from manifold; support turbo so weight isn’t on pipes.

4) Remove adjacent components that obstruct access
- Remove injector lines clamps/harness if they block manifold bolts (do not disconnect injector lines from injectors unless necessary; if you must, cap and mark them).
- Remove heat shields, EGR pipes, sensors, and oil/coolant lines attached to the manifold (note: some intake manifolds contain coolant passages—handle carefully and plug/openings).
- Support the manifold: use a jack with wood block or sling to hold weight if it’s heavy.

5) Loosen bolts/studs in sequence
- Using the appropriate sockets, gradually loosen manifold-to-head bolts in a crisscross pattern working from the outside toward the center (or from center outward depending on head design) — the point is to avoid uneven stress and warpage.
- Loosen each bolt a little at a time until free, then remove.

6) Remove manifold
- Carefully remove the manifold. If it’s stuck, tap lightly with soft mallet to break gasket seal—don’t pry with screwdriver directly into flange face.
- Immediately cover intake ports with clean rags to prevent debris entry.

7) Clean mating surfaces
- Remove old gasket material with plastic scraper or gasket scraper held nearly flat. Avoid gouging the aluminum head or manifold flange.
- Use brake cleaner or diesel-safe degreaser and a clean rag to remove residue.
- Inspect surfaces with straightedge and feeler gauge. Flange warpage tolerance usually very small (<0.1–0.2 mm). If warped beyond spec, manifold may need machining or replacement.
- Clean bolt threads in head with thread chaser or tap if corroded; ensure bolts pass freely.

8) Inspect components and replace parts
- Inspect manifold for cracks, broken studs, or heat damage.
- Replace gaskets, any corroded studs/bolts, pipe gaskets, O-rings and hoses as needed.
- If coolant passages run through the manifold, inspect and clean; replace any hose connecting manifold that is soft or cracked.

9) Install new gasket and manifold
- Place the new gasket onto the head, ensuring correct orientation and that dowel pins (if present) align.
- If manual specifies a thin coating of sealant at specific points, apply sparingly only there.
- Position the manifold onto the gasket carefully; keep rags in ports until actually ready to torque.
- Insert bolts/studs hand-tight to hold manifold.

10) Torque bolts in proper sequence
- Using torque wrench, tighten bolts in the manufacturer’s recommended sequence (usually center outward or crisscross). If sequence not available, tighten from center outward in a spiral.
- Use staged torque increments: first to ~30% of final torque, then ~60%, then 100%.
- Typical intake manifold bolt torque on older diesel engines: 25–60 Nm depending on bolt size—consult factory manual. Commonly 30–40 Nm for M10 bolts. Do NOT exceed correct torque; if unsure, check manual.
- If bolts are torque-to-yield, use new bolts and follow the torque + angle spec in manual.

11) Reassemble removed components
- Reconnect turbo/intercooler pipes, sensors, vacuum hoses, heat shields, EGR pipe, and any coolant/oil lines using new gaskets if removed.
- Reinstall air intake ducting and air cleaner.
- Reconnect any electrical connectors and throttle linkages.

12) Refill coolant and bleed
- Refill cooling system with correct coolant mixture.
- Bleed air from cooling system per model procedure: open bleeder valves, run engine to operating temp with heater on, top off as needed.
- Check for leaks around manifold and hoses.

13) Final checks and test run
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Start engine; watch for leaks (coolant, air, exhaust), listen for intake vacuum leaks (hissing).
- After warm-up, re-check torque on manifold bolts if manual recommends re-torque after heat cycle.
- Road/test under load; re-inspect for leaks after short run.

How specific tools are used
- Torque wrench: set to desired torque, tighten bolts in sequence slowly; use three-stage increment to avoid sudden stress. Hold wrench at handle, apply steady torque until click (click-type) or digital readout.
- Socket set/ratchet: used for removing/installing bolts. Use extensions and swivel joints for awkward angles.
- Gasket scraper / razor: hold nearly flat and scrape gently to avoid scratching flange; finish with solvent and soft brush.
- Straightedge & feeler gauge: lay straightedge across flange, slide feeler gauge to measure gap; any feeler entry indicates warp.
- Thread chaser/tap: clean bolt holes to ensure accurate torque readings; run carefully to avoid damaging threads.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Leaving ports open—dirt/debris into ports: always stuff with clean rags immediately when manifold removed.
- Over-tightening bolts—warped flange or broken bolts: use correct torque and staged tightening.
- Reusing old gasket: leads to leaks—always fit new gasket.
- Not replacing corroded studs/bolts: stripped or weak fasteners will fail under torque.
- Damaging the flange surface with aggressive scraping: use plastic scraper and solvent; if surface is gouged, machining or replacement may be required.
- Not bleeding coolant properly causing overheating: follow bleed procedure; run engine and top off as air escapes.
- Forgetting to support turbo/manifold weight: stress on pipes and joints can crack flange or pipes.
- Applying excessive sealant where gasket is designed to seal alone: causes blockage of coolant passages or gasket squeeze-out.
- Failing to check for manifold warpage or cracks: replacing gasket will not fix a warped or cracked manifold.

Post-repair checks
- After first run and cool-down, re-inspect torque on bolts if manual requires re-torque.
- Check for coolant loss over the next few operating hours.
- Check for black soot/loose fit signs at manifold flange indicating air/exhaust leaks.

That’s the complete workshop-style process. Follow the factory service manual for exact torques, bolt sequences and any model-specific steps.
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