Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Fiat Tractor 55-60 60-90 79-90 80-90 90-90 100-90 tractor factory workshop manual download

Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: socket set (8–13 mm), screwdriver set (flat/Phillips), Torx set (if fitted), pliers.
- Hose/clamp pliers or screwdriver for intake clamps.
- Multimeter (digital, DC volts/ohms).
- OEM or universal MAF cleaner aerosol (do NOT use brake or carb cleaner).
- Small soft brush (optional, only for external debris).
- Clean lint‑free cloths.
- Replacement parts you may need: MAF sensor (OEM Bosch or Fiat-specified part), sensor gasket/O‑ring, intake elbow/boot, hose clamps.
- Diagnostic scanner that reads engine ECU or at least can show live RPM/MAF data (helpful).
- Optional: small mirror, camera/phone for photos, dielectric grease for connectors.

Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine when possible. If hot, allow cooling to avoid burns.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal before unplugging electrical connectors to avoid shorts.
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Use only MAF cleaner on the sensing element. Do not touch the element or use compressed air/solvents.
- Support the intake/hose so it doesn’t strain the sensor or wiring when removed.

Overview of what you’ll do
1) Locate the MAF/airflow meter in the intake between the air filter housing and the turbo/intake manifold. 2) Remove sensor from housing, visually inspect and test wiring. 3) Clean the sensing element or replace sensor if faulty. 4) Reinstall, check for air leaks, clear codes and verify operation.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1. Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, set parking brake, shut off engine and remove key.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Take photos of the sensor, hoses and connector orientation to aid reassembly.

2. Access & removal
- Locate the airflow sensor: usually mounted in the intake duct directly downstream of the air cleaner housing on Fiat 55–100 series tractors.
- Loosen hose clamps on both ends of the intake duct that secures the sensor.
- Unplug the electrical connector: depress tab and pull straight out. If connector is tight, gently pry the locking tab — do not pull on wires.
- Remove mounting screws/bolts (usually 3–4) and lift sensor straight out. Support the intake boot so it doesn’t pull on the sensor.

3. Visual inspection
- Inspect sensor housing, wiring harness and plug for corrosion, broken pins or water ingress.
- Inspect intake boot and clamps — cracked boots or loose clamps cause air leaks and false MAF readings. Replace if damaged.
- Inspect air filter condition; a saturated/dirty filter often causes contaminated MAF.

4. Electrical check (before cleaning or replacement)
- Reconnect battery negative if you had removed it for safety (you can test with battery connected but do not run engine).
- With multimeter set to DC volts, backprobe the connector pins (refer to wiring diagram or note power/ground pins). Typical checks:
- Ignition ON (engine off): check for +12 V (or switched supply) on power pin.
- Check ground pin for continuity to battery negative (<1 Ω).
- If there’s no power/ground, diagnose wiring/fuse first.
- If you have a scanner, connect it and look at live MAF sensor readings or air mass/frequency values at key ON/idle conditions.

5. Cleaning the sensor
- If the sensor is a hot‑wire or hot‑film type: use only MAF cleaner spray. Hold the sensor so the element faces up. Spray short bursts (10–15 cm distance) across the element until visibly clean. Do not touch the element.
- If it’s a vane‑type AFM (mechanical flap with potentiometer): gently blow out loose dirt and use MAF cleaner on the flap pivot and inside body. Do not force the flap or touch the potentiometer surfaces.
- Allow sensor to air dry completely (10–20 minutes). Do not use compressed air or cloth to wipe element.

6. Re‑inspection & replace if necessary
- If cleaning did not restore correct operation or if electrical tests failed (no output signal, open circuit, erratic voltage), replace the sensor.
- Replace MAF gasket/O‑ring when reinstalling to ensure a proper seal.
- If wiring connector pins are corroded/damaged, repair the harness or replace the connector.

7. Reinstallation
- Fit the sensor back into the intake with new gasket/seal if used. Tighten mounting bolts evenly (avoid overtightening).
- Reattach intake hoses/clamps, tightening to secure but not crushing silicone boots.
- Reconnect the electrical connector (apply a small smear of dielectric grease to pins if desired).
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.

8. Post‑repair checks
- Start engine and check for smooth idle and response to throttle.
- With scanner, watch live MAF values; when you rev engine, the MAF reading should rise smoothly with RPM. No sudden drops or flatlines.
- Check for intake air leaks by feeling around the joints for hissing or using soapy water (engine off).
- Clear any stored fault codes in the ECU and perform short road/test run observing engine behavior.

How to use the key tools (quick)
- Multimeter: set to DC volts for supply & output checks; backprobe connector (tap behind the rubber boot) and read voltage. With ignition ON you should see supply voltage on power pin, and output voltage should change with airflow when engine runs.
- MAF cleaner: spray 2–4 short bursts across the sensing element from a distance; do not touch or scrub. Let dry fully.
- Scanner: connect to tractor ECU port, read fault codes, view live data (MAF grams/sec, frequency or voltage) while varying RPM to confirm sensor response.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Using brake/carbon cleaner or compressed air — these damage the hot wire/film.
- Touching the sensing element with fingers or tools — oils and mechanical damage will ruin it.
- Replacing the sensor without checking air hoses, clamps, air filter and intake leaks — the new sensor will fail or show poor readings if the intake leaks continue.
- Ignoring wiring/connectors — intermittent faults often come from corroded pins, not the sensor itself.
- Over‑tightening mounting screws or clamps and cracking the housing.
- Assuming MAF is the problem while a clogged filter, faulty MAP sensor, or injection fault is the real cause — use diagnostic data before parts swap.

Replacement parts & when required
- Replace MAF if:
- Cleaning doesn’t restore correct output.
- Element is physically damaged.
- Electrical tests show open/short or no output.
- Also consider replacing:
- MAF gasket/O‑ring (recommended every time).
- Intake boot/ducts/clamps if cracked or softened.
- Wiring connector or pins if corroded.
- Use OEM Bosch or Fiat-specified parts for reliable fit/function.

Final verification
- After repair, clear ECU codes and verify no new codes appear.
- Confirm smooth idle, good throttle response and correct live MAF signal behavior during revs.
- Road test under load and re‑check for leaks and codes.

Done — follow these steps and avoid the common pitfalls.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions