Below is a practical, workshop-style guide to front-wheel alignment on Fiat tractor models in the 55–100 hp families you listed (55-60, 60-90, 79-90, 80-90, 90-90, 100-90). It’s written for a beginner mechanic: I explain the parts, the theory, a step-by-step alignment procedure (what to measure, how to adjust), common failure modes and how to avoid them, and useful tips/analogies. Read safety points first and always follow the factory workshop manual for exact torque values and any model-specific procedures.

Safety first
- Work on level, hard ground. Chock rear wheels and put transmission in park/neutral with parking brake on (as required).
- Use a jack and heavy-duty jack stands if lifting a wheel. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Keep hands away from pinch points while turning steering.
- If you have doubts about lifting or supporting the tractor, get help or use a lift.

Overview — why alignment matters (theory, in simple terms)
- Wheel alignment means setting the geometric angles of the front wheels relative to the tractor’s centerline and to each other so they roll straight, steer correctly, and wear tires evenly.
- Main angles:
- Toe: the difference in distance between the front and rear of the two front tires. “Toe-in” means the front edges of the tires are closer together than the rear edges. Too much toe causes scrubbing and rapid, even wear and heavy steering effort; too little (or toe-out) causes instability and uneven wear.
- Caster: the tilt of the steering axis fore-aft (viewed from the side). Positive caster helps the wheel return to center (self-centering) and improves stability; negative caster reduces stability. Caster affects steering feel, not tire wear directly.
- Camber: the tilt of the wheel in/out at the top (viewed from the front). Excess camber causes edge wear of the tire.
- Thrust angle: the direction the rear axle points relative to the tractor centerline; if rear axle is off, front wheels must be adjusted so the tractor tracks straight.
- Analogy: imagine your feet shod in boots. If your toes point slightly inward (toe-in), you shuffle and your soles wear oddly. If your ankles are tilted, you’ll put uneven pressure on the tread. Alignment is getting your “boots” pointed and angled correctly so you walk straight and your feet last longer.
- Why tractors need alignment: steering parts wear (tie rod ends, kingpins, bushes), a bump or hitting stubble/obstacle can bend a spindle/tie rod, or repairs/replacements change geometry. Incorrect inflation, load and ballast changes also change handling.

Main components and what they do (detailed)
- Tire & Rim: the tire is the contact surface; uneven wear is the usual symptom of misalignment. Always set tire pressures to spec before measuring.
- Hub & Wheel Bearings: allow wheel rotation. Excessive endplay or worn bearings change wheel position and alignment. Check bearing preload and endplay.
- Wheel Studs/Nuts: secure wheel. Loose wheel nuts can kill alignment and are dangerous.
- Spindle / Stub Axle / Kingpin assembly:
- Spindle (stub axle) is where hub rides. It mounts to the steering knuckle and pivots about the kingpin or bushings; it sets the wheel’s camber/caster geometry.
- Kingpin or swivel bushings provide the pivot axis for steering. Worn kingpins or bushes create play and change caster/camber under load.
- Steering Knuckle / Steering Arm / Pitman Arm:
- Steering arm (arm on spindle) connects to tie rod end/drag link and transfers steering input to the wheel.
- Pitman arm on the steering box transmits box output to the drag link.
- Tie rods (track rod, center link) and left/right tie ends:
- Tie rods connect the two front wheels so adjusting them changes toe. They typically have an adjuster sleeve or threaded ends with locknuts.
- Drag link connects steering box/pitman arm to one spindle steering arm; determines steering travel and centering.
- Tie-rod adjuster sleeves / turnbuckles: used to lengthen/shorten track width between spindles to set toe. Locknuts secure the setting.
- Steering box / worm & sector (or recirculating ball): converts steering wheel rotation into lateral motion. Excessive play here shows up as free play at the wheel and can confuse alignment checks.
- Steering damper (if fitted): reduces oscillations and shimmy.
- Front axle beam / main axle / crossmember: holds the spindles at set spacing; bent beams change track and alignment.
- Shackles/bushings (if tie-rod anchored to frame): excessive play changes toe when loaded.

Common failure modes (what can go wrong)
- Worn tie rod ends: produce looseness, wandering, and variable toe under load.
- Loose or worn kingpin/bushings: cause steering play, change caster/camber on movement, uneven tire wear.
- Bent tie rod, bent spindle or bent axle beam: physical deformation shifts geometry and can’t be corrected by adjustments alone.
- Seized adjusters due to rust: prevents accurate adjustment; forcing can break threads.
- Incorrect tire pressure or mismatched tires: measurement must be with correct, equal pressures—unequal pressure changes effective rolling diameter and perceived toe.
- Loose wheel bearings or hub play: changes wheel position and produces runout and uneven wear.
- Steering box wear or too much free play: gives steering play independent of alignment; must be corrected first.
- Wrong re-tightening sequence or not locking locknuts: adjustments move during use and alignment is lost.
- Improper ballast or weight distribution: changes wheel loading and can change caster slightly or track under working conditions — but static alignment is still the starting point.

Tools & gauges you need
- Tape measure (accurate, metric preferred) or a measuring stick.
- Straightedge or a pair of strings + stakes (string alignment method).
- Plumb bob or digital inclinometer (for camber/caster).
- Jack and stands; wheel chocks.
- Wrenches and sockets to fit locknuts/adjuster sleeves.
- Soft hammer or mallet.
- Penetrant and lubricant for seized fasteners.
- Torque wrench (for final tightening to spec).
- Optional: toe plates or alignment turntables, camber/caster gauge, dial indicator for hub runout.

Preparation (before measuring)
1. Warm tractor to normal operating condition if the workshop manual recommends (suspension/tires settle).
2. Inflate front tires to recommended pressure (same both sides). Check rear brakes off, tractor unloaded (but if you have ballast normally fitted, align with that ballast in place — alignment should be done in the configuration it will be used).
3. Park on level ground; chock rear wheels; steering wheel centered and locked if possible.
4. Inspect components: check for damaged tires, loose wheel nuts, play in tie rod ends, drag link, kingpins, steering box. Replace any worn components before aligning.
5. Check wheel bearings: ensure no excess endplay.
6. Clean threads and adjusters; apply penetrating oil if needed.

Measuring methods — simple and reliable ways
Method A — String method (best for a home workshop):
- Goal: establish two parallel reference lines that represent the tractor centerline.
- Steps:
1. Put the steering straight and center the wheel.
2. Place two stakes or stands in front and two behind the tractor, roughly in line with the outer edges of the front tires.
3. Run a string along the outside of the rear tire edges, pulled tight and parallel across front and rear sides. Repeat on the inner edges or use two strings to bracket the tractor center.
4. Measure from the string to the rim at the front and at the rear of each front wheel (same rim reference point top/bottom). Difference between front and rear measurement for left vs right gives toe reading.
5. Total toe = (front edge distance left minus front edge distance right) minus (rear edge distance left minus right). The math is simpler using a consistent measuring method: many people measure at the same vertical location on the rim front and rear of wheel and compare differences.
- Benefit: inexpensive and accurate enough for farm tractors.

Method B — Tape measure across rims:
- Measure the distance between the front edges of the rim lips (outside to outside) and between the rear edges. Difference (front minus rear) is total toe (positive means toe-in).
- Repeat by measuring inside faces if preferred; just be consistent.

Checking caster and camber (if adjustable on your tractor)
- Many older tractors have limited caster/camber adjustability (shims, eccentric bushes, or kingpin adjustments). If not adjustable, you can only check if they’re within acceptable limits.
- Camber:
- Use a straightedge across the rim face and a feeler gauge at top/bottom, or use a camber gauge. If camber is off beyond spec, check for bent spindle or worn kingpin bushes.
- Caster:
- Use a caster/inclinometer gauge or use a plumb-bob method: lock the steering so wheel is straight, hang a plumb bob from the top of the rim/steering arm and measure its relation to rim front/back when wheel is turned 20° left/right; compute caster—this is more advanced and often measured with a specialized gauge. If caster is off, check kingpin condition or adjustable eccentric.

How to set toe (walkthrough)
- Typical target: many tractors are set with slight toe-in (small amount). Because models vary, consult the Fiat workshop manual for exact mm/inch specs. If you don’t have the manual, aim for a small total toe-in (a few millimeters total between the two wheels) and confirm by road test. Too much detail here can’t replace checking the manual.
Step-by-step:
1. Center steering wheel and ensure front wheels point straight ahead.
2. Measure current toe using string or tape method. Record front and rear measurements for both wheels.
3. Loosen the locknuts on the tie-rod adjusters (both sides). There are usually two locknuts per adjuster sleeve or one per rod end—free them so you can turn the sleeve/rod.
4. Adjust both ends evenly: rotating the center sleeve (turnbuckle concept) lengthens or shortens the tie rod and changes toe. Turn the same amount on both sides to keep wheels parallel.
- To decrease toe-in (make wheels point more straight or toe-out), lengthen the tie rod (turn sleeve to increase distance).
- To increase toe-in, shorten the tie rod.
- Move the tie rod ends the same amount on each side so steering wheel remains centered. If steering wheel moves, correct by adjusting drag link/pitman arm or center tie rod to re-center steering wheel, then re-measure toe.
5. Re-measure after each small adjustment until desired toe is achieved.
6. Tighten locknuts to specified torque. If you don’t have the torque, tighten firmly and secure with lockwasher or cotter pin where provided, and check after a short test drive.

Centering steering wheel
- Adjustments to toe can rotate the steering wheel. To center the wheel:
- Adjust tie rods equally until wheel is centered while toe is maintained, or
- If toe needs to be set and wheel off-center, adjust the drag link/pitman arm or tie rod end so the wheel is centered with desired toe.
- Note: avoid changing the steering box position (unless the box is adjustable per manual).

Checking and adjusting kingpins/cam/steer bushes (if adjustable)
- If the tractor has eccentric bushes or shim packs to set caster/camber, the workshop manual will give the procedure. Typical steps:
1. Loosen retaining bolts.
2. Rotate eccentric so spindle moves in/out or fore/aft to achieve desired camber/caster.
3. Tighten bolts to spec.
- If kingpin bushings are worn, replace; adjusting a worn bush is only a temporary fix.

Final checks and testing
1. Tighten all locknuts to specified torque.
2. Grease all grease points you disturbed, check for binding.
3. Bounce the front end gently to seat components (if safe to do so) then recheck toe—some play can appear after settling.
4. Road test at low speed: confirm steering is centered, tractor tracks straight, and there’s no wander or shimmy. Drive a short straight distance, then re-check toe and tighten if necessary.
5. Re-check wheel nuts after a short work period.

Troubleshooting — symptoms and likely causes
- Steering pull to one side: unequal toe (one wheel more toe-out), unequal tire pressure, stuck brake, bent spindle, or bent axle beam.
- Rapid, even tire wear across tread: excessive toe-in or toe-out.
- Inner or outer edge wear: camber problem or chronic overload.
- Wandering/high steering effort: toe-out or toe-in too large, or worn tie rod ends/kingpins, or low tire pressure.
- Shimmy/shudder at speed: loose components (bearings, tie rod ends, steering box wear), unbalanced tires/wheels, incorrect toe.
- Steering wheel not centered after toe set: uneven adjustment, drag link or pitman arm mis-position, or asymmetric wear/stretch in steering links.

Maintenance tips and do’s/don’ts
- Do replace worn tie rod ends and steering components before aligning.
- Do set tire pressures and ballast to the tractor’s normal working condition before alignment.
- Don’t over-tighten adjusters; force can strip threads or distort sleeves.
- Don’t attempt alignment if steering box or kingpins are severely worn — replace first.
- Lock nuts must be secured after adjustment — use thread locker or cotter where provided.
- If you must temporarily adjust a seized tie rod, free it carefully with penetrating oil and heat if needed; don’t hammer threads.
- Keep records of alignment specs you set and re-check periodically (every few hundred hours or after shock/bump).

Model-specific notes
- Fiat tractors in the 55–100 hp families generally use relatively simple mechanical steering with adjustable tie rods and kingpin/bushing arrangements. Many alignment actions are the same across the models, but exact toe/caster/camber specs and torque values differ by model/year. Always consult the Fiat workshop manual for:
- Target toe-in (mm or inches total)
- Caster and camber specs and whether they’re adjustable on that model
- Torque values for locknuts, kingpin bolts, pitman arm, etc.
- Specific procedures for centering steering wheel and locking adjusters

Summary checklist (quick)
- Safety: chock wheels, level ground, stands.
- Inspect: tires, bearings, tie rod ends, kingpins, steering box.
- Inflate tires to spec.
- Center steering wheel.
- Measure current toe (string or tape).
- Loosen locknuts, adjust tie rods evenly to spec.
- Re-center steering wheel if needed.
- Tighten locknuts to spec and grease fittings.
- Road test and re-check.

Closing — final practical notes
- Start by making sure steering and suspension components are in good condition; alignment will only be stable if those parts are sound.
- Small adjustments are better than large ones — adjust a little, measure, adjust again.
- Keep thorough notes of initial measurements and the final settings; it makes repeat checks much faster.
- If you find bent components or excessive wear, replace them rather than trying to “dial out” the problem with adjusters.

That’s the full workshop-style overview and step-by-step approach for front-wheel alignment on these Fiat tractor families. If you need the exact toe/caster/camber numeric specs or torque values for a particular model/year, get the model’s Fiat workshop manual or parts manual and follow those numbers when making final adjustments.
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