Tools & consumables
- Floor jack (capacity ≥ 2–3 t) and heavy-duty axle stands or wooden blocks
- Wheel chocks
- Socket set and ratchet (metric, up to 24 mm), combination wrenches
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench (0–300 Nm) and torque extension
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster / WD-40)
- Hammer, drift/punch, pry bar
- Ball joint/strap puller or large puller (if lower eye is tight)
- Bench vise or hydraulic press (for pressing out/in rubber bushings)
- Large sockets or bushing driver set (for using vise as press)
- Punch & cold chisel
- Wire brush, rags, brake cleaner
- Anti-seize, thread locker (medium strength)
- New mounting bolts & self-locking nuts (recommended replacement)
- New strut/shock absorber assembly (OE or aftermarket) and replacement rubber bushings/washers
- Safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Park on level ground; chock rear wheels; set parking brake and remove key.
- Never work under an axle supported only by a jack—use stands/blocks rated for the load.
- Support the front axle or chassis with stands before removing any load-bearing fasteners.
- Release any stored energy (springs/pressure) before disassembly. If front suspension has coil springs or a spring strut, treat like a compressed spring—use proper spring compressors or workshop tools.
- Wear PPE; keep hands/limbs clear of pinch points.

Parts required (typical)
- Complete replacement strut/shock (match model & length)
- New rubber bushings (upper and lower) and washers
- Replacement bolts & nuts (heavy-duty grade; some manufacturers recommend replacing these each time)
- Grease for bushings (if applicable)
- Thread locker / anti-seize

Overview
On Fiat 55–60 / 60–90 / 79–90 / 80–90 / 90–90 / 100–90 tractors the “strut” is normally a telescopic shock/damper that mounts between the chassis and the axle/steering carrier. Procedure below covers removal and replacement of the shock/strut assembly and its bushes.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Ensure tractor is on firm, level ground. Chock rear wheels.
- Remove any implements or ballast that could shift weight.
- Clean area around strut top & bottom mounts so bolts and nuts are accessible.

2) Raise & support
- Loosen wheel lug nuts if needed.
- Use floor jack under front axle or front crossmember to raise front of tractor until weight is off wheels.
- Place heavy-duty stands or timber blocks under axle and lower jack so stand supports load. Confirm secure.
- If removing both struts, support chassis additionally to prevent tilting.

3) Relieve load on strut
- With axle supported, gently lower jack so the suspension is at normal ride height (or slightly drooped) so the strut is unloaded. You must not have the strut under full compressed load when removing fasteners.
- If there are spring elements (coil springs) in the strut assembly, use correct spring compressor or follow factory procedure for safe decompression.

4) Access & free seized fasteners
- Spray penetrating oil on top and bottom mounting bolts/nuts. Let soak 5–15 minutes.
- Use breaker bar/socket to break free nuts. Watch for rusted studs—heat with an oxy-propane torch only if trained and safe to do so.

5) Remove lower mount first (recommended)
- Support the strut with a small jack or a second tech to prevent it dropping.
- Remove the lower nut/bolt securing the strut to the axle/steering arm. If the eye is rusted on the pin, use a drift/punch or puller to separate. A hammer on the bolt head while supporting the nut side often releases it.
- If a circlip or split pin secures the nut, remove that first.

6) Remove upper mount
- Support the strut as you remove the upper mounting nut(s). On many Fiat tractors the top is a single bolt through a bracket with rubber bush. Remove nut, then pull strut down/out.
- If strut does not clear, rotate steering/axle slightly to create clearance.

7) Inspect parts & remove old bushings
- Clean mounting eyes. Inspect bolts, studs, brackets for wear or elongation. Replace any damaged hardware.
- Press out worn rubber bushings from top/bottom eyes using hydraulic press or bench vise with suitably sized sockets as drivers. If no press, a large socket and bolt with backing plate can be used as a puller—heat bushing lightly and use penetrating oil. Do not pry on metal housing as you can distort the eye.

8) Fit new bushings
- Lubricate new rubber bushings only with recommended grease (not petroleum if bushing incompatible—use silicone or rubber-safe grease).
- Press new bushings into the eyes using press, vise or bushing driver until fully seated. Ensure alignment of internal sleeve.

9) Install new strut
- Fit strut into upper bracket first (or as factory recommends). Insert new bolt/sleeve through bushing and loosely fit nut.
- Align lower eye and insert new bolt/sleeve. Use a pry bar to align holes if necessary.
- Hand-tighten nuts only at this stage.

10) Torque fasteners to spec
- Lower tractor slightly so normal ride height and bushings are loaded (important: torquing with suspension at full droop can pre-load/warp rubber).
- Torque bolts to factory specifications. If you don’t have the manual, use typical torque guidelines and replace hardware: M12 ≈ 70–100 Nm, M14 ≈ 100–140 Nm, M16 ≈ 160–220 Nm. Confirm with the Fiat workshop manual where possible.
- Apply thread locker to upper nut if recommended; use anti-seize on exposed threads if corroding is an issue.

11) Final checks
- Ensure clearance between strut and brake hoses, wiring, steering components—nothing rubbing.
- Lower tractor completely and remove stands.
- Re-torque after first 50 km/30 miles of operation.
- Check for oil leaks from strut (if replacing with new damper) and re-check nuts.

How each tool is used (key ones)
- Floor jack & stands: lift and support heavy tractor safely; never rely on jack alone.
- Penetrating oil: frees corroded nuts to avoid rounding/wrenching damage.
- Breaker bar: provides leverage to loosen tight bolts without risking damage to torque wrench.
- Torque wrench: final tightening to specified torque; use correct torque range and follow click or digital reading.
- Hydraulic press / bench vise with sockets: presses bushings in/out. Use matching diameter sockets to push on bushing outer metal shell while blocking inner sleeve so you press evenly.
- Puller/hammer & drift: to separate stuck strut eye from mounting pin—use controlled blows and punches to avoid damaging mount.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Working with suspension loaded: always support axle/chassis and unload the strut before removing bolts.
- Re-using old bolts and nuts: replace with new grade hardware—old nuts can fail and bolts elongate.
- Not replacing rubber bushings: old bushings cause noise, alignment errors, and premature wear of new strut.
- Torquing at full droop: torquing bolts with rubber unloaded will pre-load the bushing and cause binding or rapid wear. Set to ride height before final torque.
- Damaging bushing housing when using improper tools: use proper press or socket driver; do not pry between bushing and eye with metal tools.
- Ignoring alignment/clearance: check steering stops and brake hoses—installing strut incorrectly can bind steering or damage hoses.

Testing after replacement
- Walk-around inspection for clearance and tightness.
- Start engine, cycle steering lock-to-lock, listen for knocks.
- Road-test at low speed, check for noise and proper damping. Re-check torque after initial running.

Notes specific to Fiat models (use manual for exact details)
- These Fiat tractor series can have different shock lengths and mounting arrangements by year and optional front axle. Always match the replacement strut to original part number or measure eye-to-eye length.
- Some models use a two-bolt top bracket vs single-pin top on others—observe orientation and bush sleeve length.

Done. Follow the tractor workshop manual for exact torque values, parts numbers and any model-specific precautions.
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