Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Fiat Tractor 55-60 60-90 79-90 80-90 90-90 100-90 tractor factory workshop manual download

- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- Work on a level surface with engine off, key removed, and battery negative disconnected to avoid accidental cranking or sparks.
- Allow engine and exhaust to cool fully before working near intake or injection components.
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area; diesel fumes and cleaning solvents are hazardous.

- What “auxiliary air valve” refers to (brief)
- On Fiat tractors in these ranges the auxiliary air valve is typically a small electrically- or vacuum-actuated valve on the intake/air filter or fuel/air control system that provides extra air at certain throttle/starting conditions. It can be on/near the injection pump or on the intake manifold depending on engine variant. It affects idling, cold running and throttle response.

- Tools you must have (basic set) — each tool explained and how to use it
- Combination wrench set (metric sizes 8–19 mm commonly) — use to loosen/tighten nuts and bolts; hold fastener head while turning the nut or to work where sockets won’t fit.
- Metric socket set with ratchet (1/4" and 3/8" drive, sockets 8–19 mm) — use for faster removal/installation of bolts; ratchet allows work in confined spaces.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips, multiple sizes) — use to remove hose clamps, covers and electrical connector clips; choose tip that fits snugly to avoid cam-out.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint) — use to remove and install hose clamps, pull electrical connectors, and manipulate small parts.
- Torx/Allen key set (metric) — some valve mounting screws/fasteners use these; keep both sets handy.
- Adjustable wrench — backup for odd-size nuts or holding fittings.
- Wire brush and clean rags — use to clean mating surfaces and remove corrosion/deposits.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) — soak stuck bolts or fittings to ease removal without rounding heads.
- Small container or magnetic tray — keep small bolts and parts organized so they don’t get lost.
- Flashlight or headlamp — illuminate tight areas.
- Safety gloves and goggles — protect your hands and eyes while working and cleaning.
- Multimeter (digital) — use to check electrical continuity, supply voltage to the valve and resistance of the valve coil if electrically actuated.
- Hand vacuum/pressure pump or small vacuum gauge (recommended) — use to test vacuum-actuated valve operation; draws a controlled vacuum and shows whether valve holds vacuum.
- Torque wrench (recommended) — use to tighten bolts to manufacturer specifications on reassembly; prevents over/under-torquing.

- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Service/repair manual for your exact Fiat model (highly recommended) — provides location diagrams, wiring, torque specs, and exact procedures; avoids guesswork and mistakes.
- Replacement hoses and hose clamps — intake or vacuum hoses may be brittle or damaged; replacing prevents leaks that cause malfunction.
- Electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease — clean connectors and protect against corrosion after reassembly.
- Small pick set — helps remove old O-rings/gaskets without damaging mating surfaces.
- Replacement gasket or O-ring kit for the valve — seals often deteriorate and cause leaks; necessary if you find worn seals.
- Replacement valve assembly (if diagnostic shows failure) — required if valve is electrically or mechanically failed and not serviceable.
- Injector pump/engine-specific tools (only if valve is mounted to injection pump) — some pump-mounted valves may require specific locking tools or shaft alignment procedures; service manual will list these.

- Locating the auxiliary air valve (general)
- Look along the intake tract between air filter housing and intake manifold and around the injection pump housing; check for a small black/silver cylindrical valve with electrical connector or vacuum port.
- Trace small vacuum hoses from intake or throttle lever — they often lead to the auxiliary valve.
- Refer to a workshop manual or the parts diagram for the exact position on your specific model.

- Initial inspection (visual and simple checks)
- Use flashlight to inspect valve body, connectors, and hoses for cracks, splits, or brittle rubber.
- Check electrical connector for corrosion or loose pins; wiggle while observing engine idling (if safe) to see if idle changes.
- Smell for diesel/fuel leaks nearby and visually inspect for oil/soot deposits that indicate leakage.

- Electrical test (if electrically actuated)
- Set multimeter to DC volts; reconnect battery negative for this test only and take care not to crank engine.
- Backprobe the connector (or use the harness side) and have a helper turn ignition to ON and operate starter/controls as appropriate; confirm proper supply voltage to the valve (usually battery voltage with ignition ON or when solenoid commanded).
- Measure coil resistance with multimeter set to ohms (engine off and battery disconnected): remove connector, read resistance across the coil terminals. Compare to manual spec if available. A very high or infinite resistance indicates an open coil; very low (near zero) could indicate short.
- If voltage present but coil not energizing or resistance incorrect, valve is likely faulty and replacement is recommended.

- Vacuum/mechanical function test (if vacuum-actuated)
- Use a handheld vacuum pump to apply vacuum to the valve’s vacuum port; watch for movement or for valve to hold vacuum without leaking.
- If valve does not hold vacuum or does not move when vacuum applied, internal diaphragm or sealing surface likely failed — replace valve or its internal diaphragm (if rebuild kit exists).

- Removal (general safe steps)
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Label and photograph hoses and connectors before removal to ensure correct reassembly.
- Remove air cleaner cover or nearby obstructions with screwdrivers/sockets to access valve.
- Disconnect electrical connector by pressing the locking tab and pulling; use needle-nose pliers if connectors are tight but avoid pulling wires.
- Remove vacuum hoses by twisting gently and pulling; use pliers carefully if clamps are stiff.
- Remove mounting bolts with appropriate socket/wrench; apply penetrating oil first if bolts are seized. Keep bolts in tray.
- Clean the area after removal with wire brush and rags.

- Inspection after removal
- Check gasket or O-ring condition; if flattened, cracked, or missing, replacement is required.
- Inspect valve diaphragm or moving parts (if exposed) for tears or stiffening.
- If valve shows severe carbon/soot buildup, soak in appropriate cleaner only if valve design allows disassembly; many modern valves are sealed and not serviceable — replace instead.

- Cleaning and reassembly (when serviceable)
- If valve is explicitly serviceable in manual, disassemble on clean bench, note component order.
- Clean metal parts with carb cleaner or solvent; do not soak electrical coil assemblies.
- Replace O-rings/gaskets with new ones sized to original; lubricate O-rings with a thin film of engine oil or assembly lubricant to ease installation.
- Reassemble in reverse order, ensuring connectors and hoses match the photos/labels.
- Tighten mounting bolts to manual torque with torque wrench; if manual torque is unknown, snug bolts evenly and tighten incrementally to avoid distortion — avoid overtightening.

- Replacement (when required) — why and what to get
- Replace if:
- Valve fails electrical or vacuum tests
- Diaphragm is torn or leaking
- Valve body is cracked or deeply corroded
- Seals are no longer serviceable and no rebuild kit exists
- Valve causes persistent poor idle, stalling or cold-start problems after verifying hoses and electrical feed
- What to order:
- OEM auxiliary air valve assembly for your exact Fiat tractor model and engine variant — match part number from parts manual or existing valve.
- Gasket/O-ring kit for valve mounting or intake mating surface.
- Replacement vacuum hoses and clamps if original hoses are stiff, cracked, or collapse under vacuum.
- Electrical connector or terminal kit if pins are corroded/damaged.
- Why replacement rather than cleaning:
- Many auxiliary air valves are sealed units with diaphragms/coils that degrade; cleaning won’t restore torn diaphragms or electrical coil faults.
- New valve ensures reliable operation and avoids intermittent faults that are difficult to diagnose under load.

- Reinstallation and testing
- Reinstall cleaned or replacement valve with new gasket/O-ring where required.
- Reconnect vacuum hoses and electrical connectors; use dielectric grease lightly in connectors to prevent corrosion.
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and observe idle and response; check for vacuum leaks by listening and by spraying a little carb cleaner around the mounting area (idle should change if leak present).
- Use multimeter to confirm valve is receiving correct signal during operation if applicable.
- Road/field test the tractor under load to ensure problem is resolved.

- Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Don’t assume the valve is the problem — check hoses, clamps, vacuum sources, and wiring first.
- Avoid overtightening bolts which can crack valve housing or deform intake flange.
- Don’t immerse electrical parts in solvent; clean connectors with contact cleaner only.
- Keep dirt out of intake openings while valve is removed — cover openings with a clean rag.
- Replace brittle vacuum hoses proactively; old hoses lead to intermittent faults.

- Final notes (practical)
- If unsure about exact valve type or fitment, get the parts diagram for your chassis/engine and use the exact OEM part number when ordering.
- If the valve is mounted to the injection pump and removal involves pump timing or special locking tools, stop and consult a workshop manual or a professional — incorrect reassembly can cause major engine damage.
- Keep the work area tidy and document the disassembly order with photos for easier reassembly.

- Quick checklist before powering up
- All hoses and electrical connectors reconnected and secure.
- Mounting bolts tightened evenly.
- Old gaskets replaced; no debris in intake.
- Battery reconnected and tools cleared from engine bay.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions