Fiat 55-60 60-90 79-90 80-90 90-90 100-90 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual
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The PDF manual covers
CONTENTS:
GENERAL INFORMATION
SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE REMOVAL
ENGINE INSTALLATION
ENGINE BLOCK-CYLINDER
FUEL SYSTEM
INJECTION PUMP
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
COOLING SYSTEM
CLUTCH SYSTEM
TRANSMISSION SYSTEM
BRAKE SYSTEM
FINAL DRIVE
POWER TAKE-OFF
CREEPER & REVERSER
BEVEL DRIVE SYSTEM
DIFFERENTIALS
AXLE SYSTEM
STEERING SYSTEM
FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
HYDRAULIC LIFT UNIT
REMOTE CONTROL VALVES
AUXILIARY CYLINDER
TRAILER BRAKE REMOTE
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
CHARGING SYSTEM
BATTERY SYSTEM
LIGHTING SYSTEM
CONTROLS & INSTRUMENTS
SERVICE TOOLS
TIGHTENING TORQUE
SERVICE TOOLS
2710 cc 3-CYLINDER, 4-STROKE, NATURALLY ASPIRATED DIESEL
2931 cc 3-CYLINDER, 4-STROKE, NATURALLY ASPIRATED DIESEL
3613 cc 4-CYLINDER, 4-STROKE, NATURALLY ASPIRATED DIESEL
3908 cc 4-CYLINDER, 4-STROKE, NATURALLY ASPIRATED DIESEL
4885 cc 5-CYLINDER, 4-STROKE, NATURALLY ASPIRATED DIESEL
5419 cc 6-CYLINDER, 4-STROKE, NATURALLY ASPIRATED DIESEL
Fiat 55-60 60-90 79-90 80-90 90-90 100-90 Tractor factory workshop and repair manual
- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- Work on a level surface with engine off, key removed, and battery negative disconnected to avoid accidental cranking or sparks.
- Allow engine and exhaust to cool fully before working near intake or injection components.
- Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area; diesel fumes and cleaning solvents are hazardous.
- What “auxiliary air valve” refers to (brief)
- On Fiat tractors in these ranges the auxiliary air valve is typically a small electrically- or vacuum-actuated valve on the intake/air filter or fuel/air control system that provides extra air at certain throttle/starting conditions. It can be on/near the injection pump or on the intake manifold depending on engine variant. It affects idling, cold running and throttle response.
- Tools you must have (basic set) — each tool explained and how to use it
- Combination wrench set (metric sizes 8–19 mm commonly) — use to loosen/tighten nuts and bolts; hold fastener head while turning the nut or to work where sockets won’t fit.
- Metric socket set with ratchet (1/4" and 3/8" drive, sockets 8–19 mm) — use for faster removal/installation of bolts; ratchet allows work in confined spaces.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips, multiple sizes) — use to remove hose clamps, covers and electrical connector clips; choose tip that fits snugly to avoid cam-out.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint) — use to remove and install hose clamps, pull electrical connectors, and manipulate small parts.
- Torx/Allen key set (metric) — some valve mounting screws/fasteners use these; keep both sets handy.
- Adjustable wrench — backup for odd-size nuts or holding fittings.
- Wire brush and clean rags — use to clean mating surfaces and remove corrosion/deposits.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) — soak stuck bolts or fittings to ease removal without rounding heads.
- Small container or magnetic tray — keep small bolts and parts organized so they don’t get lost.
- Flashlight or headlamp — illuminate tight areas.
- Safety gloves and goggles — protect your hands and eyes while working and cleaning.
- Multimeter (digital) — use to check electrical continuity, supply voltage to the valve and resistance of the valve coil if electrically actuated.
- Hand vacuum/pressure pump or small vacuum gauge (recommended) — use to test vacuum-actuated valve operation; draws a controlled vacuum and shows whether valve holds vacuum.
- Torque wrench (recommended) — use to tighten bolts to manufacturer specifications on reassembly; prevents over/under-torquing.
- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Service/repair manual for your exact Fiat model (highly recommended) — provides location diagrams, wiring, torque specs, and exact procedures; avoids guesswork and mistakes.
- Replacement hoses and hose clamps — intake or vacuum hoses may be brittle or damaged; replacing prevents leaks that cause malfunction.
- Electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease — clean connectors and protect against corrosion after reassembly.
- Small pick set — helps remove old O-rings/gaskets without damaging mating surfaces.
- Replacement gasket or O-ring kit for the valve — seals often deteriorate and cause leaks; necessary if you find worn seals.
- Replacement valve assembly (if diagnostic shows failure) — required if valve is electrically or mechanically failed and not serviceable.
- Injector pump/engine-specific tools (only if valve is mounted to injection pump) — some pump-mounted valves may require specific locking tools or shaft alignment procedures; service manual will list these.
- Locating the auxiliary air valve (general)
- Look along the intake tract between air filter housing and intake manifold and around the injection pump housing; check for a small black/silver cylindrical valve with electrical connector or vacuum port.
- Trace small vacuum hoses from intake or throttle lever — they often lead to the auxiliary valve.
- Refer to a workshop manual or the parts diagram for the exact position on your specific model.
- Initial inspection (visual and simple checks)
- Use flashlight to inspect valve body, connectors, and hoses for cracks, splits, or brittle rubber.
- Check electrical connector for corrosion or loose pins; wiggle while observing engine idling (if safe) to see if idle changes.
- Smell for diesel/fuel leaks nearby and visually inspect for oil/soot deposits that indicate leakage.
- Electrical test (if electrically actuated)
- Set multimeter to DC volts; reconnect battery negative for this test only and take care not to crank engine.
- Backprobe the connector (or use the harness side) and have a helper turn ignition to ON and operate starter/controls as appropriate; confirm proper supply voltage to the valve (usually battery voltage with ignition ON or when solenoid commanded).
- Measure coil resistance with multimeter set to ohms (engine off and battery disconnected): remove connector, read resistance across the coil terminals. Compare to manual spec if available. A very high or infinite resistance indicates an open coil; very low (near zero) could indicate short.
- If voltage present but coil not energizing or resistance incorrect, valve is likely faulty and replacement is recommended.
- Vacuum/mechanical function test (if vacuum-actuated)
- Use a handheld vacuum pump to apply vacuum to the valve’s vacuum port; watch for movement or for valve to hold vacuum without leaking.
- If valve does not hold vacuum or does not move when vacuum applied, internal diaphragm or sealing surface likely failed — replace valve or its internal diaphragm (if rebuild kit exists).
- Removal (general safe steps)
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Label and photograph hoses and connectors before removal to ensure correct reassembly.
- Remove air cleaner cover or nearby obstructions with screwdrivers/sockets to access valve.
- Disconnect electrical connector by pressing the locking tab and pulling; use needle-nose pliers if connectors are tight but avoid pulling wires.
- Remove vacuum hoses by twisting gently and pulling; use pliers carefully if clamps are stiff.
- Remove mounting bolts with appropriate socket/wrench; apply penetrating oil first if bolts are seized. Keep bolts in tray.
- Clean the area after removal with wire brush and rags.
- Inspection after removal
- Check gasket or O-ring condition; if flattened, cracked, or missing, replacement is required.
- Inspect valve diaphragm or moving parts (if exposed) for tears or stiffening.
- If valve shows severe carbon/soot buildup, soak in appropriate cleaner only if valve design allows disassembly; many modern valves are sealed and not serviceable — replace instead.
- Cleaning and reassembly (when serviceable)
- If valve is explicitly serviceable in manual, disassemble on clean bench, note component order.
- Clean metal parts with carb cleaner or solvent; do not soak electrical coil assemblies.
- Replace O-rings/gaskets with new ones sized to original; lubricate O-rings with a thin film of engine oil or assembly lubricant to ease installation.
- Reassemble in reverse order, ensuring connectors and hoses match the photos/labels.
- Tighten mounting bolts to manual torque with torque wrench; if manual torque is unknown, snug bolts evenly and tighten incrementally to avoid distortion — avoid overtightening.
- Replacement (when required) — why and what to get
- Replace if:
- Valve fails electrical or vacuum tests
- Diaphragm is torn or leaking
- Valve body is cracked or deeply corroded
- Seals are no longer serviceable and no rebuild kit exists
- Valve causes persistent poor idle, stalling or cold-start problems after verifying hoses and electrical feed
- What to order:
- OEM auxiliary air valve assembly for your exact Fiat tractor model and engine variant — match part number from parts manual or existing valve.
- Gasket/O-ring kit for valve mounting or intake mating surface.
- Replacement vacuum hoses and clamps if original hoses are stiff, cracked, or collapse under vacuum.
- Electrical connector or terminal kit if pins are corroded/damaged.
- Why replacement rather than cleaning:
- Many auxiliary air valves are sealed units with diaphragms/coils that degrade; cleaning won’t restore torn diaphragms or electrical coil faults.
- New valve ensures reliable operation and avoids intermittent faults that are difficult to diagnose under load.
- Reinstallation and testing
- Reinstall cleaned or replacement valve with new gasket/O-ring where required.
- Reconnect vacuum hoses and electrical connectors; use dielectric grease lightly in connectors to prevent corrosion.
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Start engine and observe idle and response; check for vacuum leaks by listening and by spraying a little carb cleaner around the mounting area (idle should change if leak present).
- Use multimeter to confirm valve is receiving correct signal during operation if applicable.
- Road/field test the tractor under load to ensure problem is resolved.
- Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Don’t assume the valve is the problem — check hoses, clamps, vacuum sources, and wiring first.
- Avoid overtightening bolts which can crack valve housing or deform intake flange.
- Don’t immerse electrical parts in solvent; clean connectors with contact cleaner only.
- Keep dirt out of intake openings while valve is removed — cover openings with a clean rag.
- Replace brittle vacuum hoses proactively; old hoses lead to intermittent faults.
- Final notes (practical)
- If unsure about exact valve type or fitment, get the parts diagram for your chassis/engine and use the exact OEM part number when ordering.
- If the valve is mounted to the injection pump and removal involves pump timing or special locking tools, stop and consult a workshop manual or a professional — incorrect reassembly can cause major engine damage.
- Keep the work area tidy and document the disassembly order with photos for easier reassembly.
- Quick checklist before powering up
- All hoses and electrical connectors reconnected and secure.
- Mounting bolts tightened evenly.
- Old gaskets replaced; no debris in intake.
- Battery reconnected and tools cleared from engine bay.
No further questions. rteeqp73
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