Tools required
- Full metric/AF socket set, impact and hand ratchets, extensions
- Torque wrench (capable to spec range)
- Transmission jack or engine hoist with gearbox cradle
- Hydraulic shop press (10–30 ton) and press adapters/drifts
- Bearing pullers / gear pullers
- Snap‑ring/circlip pliers (internal and external)
- Soft‑face hammer, brass drift set
- Drift punches and alignment dowels
- Dial indicator with magnetic base and travel gauge
- Micrometer / vernier calipers and feeler gauges
- Depth/bore gauge or plate for end‑float checks
- Heat source for ring installation (electric oven or hot oil bath) and infrared thermometer
- Parts cleaning tank / solvent, compressed air
- Gasket scraper, RTV sealant, thread locker
- Safety PPE: eye protection, gloves, steel‑toe boots, hearing protection
- Shop manual for Ford Trader T3000/T3500/T4000 (service data: torques, clearances, oil type)
- Replacement parts kit (listed below)

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat surface; use wheel chocks and disconnect battery.
- Support vehicle securely on appropriate jacks/stands if gearbox left in vehicle. Prefer removal.
- Use a transmission jack/engine hoist and proper slings to avoid dropping heavy gearbox.
- Drain fluids before disassembly; capture and dispose of oil per regulations.
- Use gloves and eye protection around solvents, heated parts, and when using press.
- Keep hands clear when pressing components. Use blocks/soft jaws to avoid part damage.
- Mark and bag fasteners and parts to avoid assembly errors.
- If unsure about a measurement or fit, refer to factory manual before applying force.

Typical replacement parts to have on hand
- Synchro ring(s) (blocking rings) — all gears serviced
- Synchro hub(s) and sleeves (if worn/damaged)
- Spring clips / anti‑friction springs for synchronizer
- Bearings (mainshaft/layshaft/bearing cups)
- Oil seals and O‑rings
- Gaskets/cover seals / drain/fill plugs
- Shims for end‑float/backlash correction (may be required)
- Bearings races / cones (if worn)
- Fasteners (nuts/bolts) if factory recommends replacement

Overview of what you will do
1) Remove gearbox from truck (recommended).
2) Drain and strip external ancillaries, disconnect linkages.
3) Split gearbox housing and remove shafts.
4) Remove synchronizer assemblies, inspect cones, rings, springs, hubs and gears.
5) Replace worn components, press and fit bearings and rings properly.
6) Reassemble with correct shims/clearances and torque values; test end‑float and ring engagement.
7) Reinstall transmission, refill oil, test.

Step‑by‑step procedure

A. Preparation and removal
1. Park truck on level surface, chock wheels and disconnect battery. Place transmission jack under gearbox with cradle.
2. Drain gearbox oil into a drain pan; remove fill and drain plugs to speed draining.
3. Disconnect clutch linkage, PTO lines (cap and plug), speedometer, electrical connectors, shift linkage and any heat shields.
4. Support engine/transmission if required, unbolt transmission bellhousing from engine block and slide unit back on input shaft; lower transmission onto jack and remove from vehicle. Label and bag fasteners and linkage.

B. External strip and split case
5. Remove external covers, shift forks, selector shaft, and shift tower components. Keep forks with their selector rod and note orientation.
6. Remove bellhousing bolts and any case bolts; separate case halves using pry bars and protect edges. Use dowel pins for alignment on reassembly.

C. Shaft and synchro removal
7. With case split, mark orientation of all gears/shafts relative to case for reference. Remove retaining nuts/circlips holding mainshaft/layshaft.
8. Use hydraulic press/gear puller to remove gears and bearings from shafts. Support shafts in press blocks; apply steady pressure to avoid bending. Use soft jaws to prevent marring.
9. Remove synchronizer hubs, sleeves, blocking rings and springs. Use snap‑ring pliers to extract circlips that retain hubs.

How the tools are used
- Press: place shaft on support blocks that keep it parallel; press off bearings or gears by pressing on the bearing inner/outer race only. Use drift/jaw adapters sized to contact the correct surface to avoid race damage.
- Bearing puller/gear puller: hook jaws behind shoulder of gear or race, draw part off shaft slowly; use penetrating fluid on rusted parts before attempting.
- Snap‑ring pliers: spread internal/external clips enough to clear groove; remove slowly to avoid clip launching.
- Heat (oven/hot oil): to fit synchro rings to cone without forcing, warm the ring uniformly to expand slightly. Temperature: moderate — warm until ring fits over cone without force (do not overheat or quench — follow ring supplier temp if available).
- Dial indicator: measure axial end‑float and backlash with indicator magnetic base fixed to case; rotate shafts and measure runout/clearance per manual.

D. Inspection and measurement
10. Clean all components with solvent; blow dry and inspect visually for pitting, scoring, chips, bruised dog teeth, or heat discoloration.
11. Inspect synchronizer ring friction face for uneven wear, glazing, cracked ramps or chipped teeth. If wear beyond service limit → replace ring.
12. Inspect hub and sleeve engagement surfaces for notching; excessive groove depth requires replacement of hub or sleeve.
13. Check blocker (synchronizer) ring ramp contact surface for wear and fit to gear cone. Small wear is normal but must be within spec.
14. Check bearings for play/noise; check races for brinelling. Replace any bearing with roughness or play.
15. Measure mainshaft axial end‑float and lateral runout; compare to service limits. If out of spec, inspect shims, bearing seats and splines.

E. Rebuilding synchronizer assemblies
16. Replace all worn synchro rings and springs; install new rings with correct orientation (bevel or chamfer side faces the cone — check ring markings). Ensure blocking ring teeth seat into hub teeth properly.
17. If a ring is interference‑fitted, heat ring gently in oven/hot oil until it expands and slip it onto cone; allow to cool and seat. Use mandrel or drift as required to position ring fully.
18. Reinstall anti‑friction springs and retainers; ensure springs sit in the hub groove correctly. Some designs use single‑piece springs — verify correct orientation.
19. Replace worn sleeves or hubs. Do not attempt to weld or file dog teeth — replace components that show notch/rounded teeth.

F. Bearing and gear installation
20. Press new bearings onto shafts using the press, only loading on the race you want to move; do not press on rolling elements.
21. Install gears, spacers, and thrust washers in the correct order. Replace any thrust washers/seals that show damage.
22. Refit circlips and securing nuts. Apply thread locker where specified by manual.

G. End‑float, shim and backlash set‑up
23. Assemble shafts loosely in case; install mainshaft nut finger tight and use dial indicator to check axial end‑float. Adjust with shims as specified in factory manual until end‑float is within spec.
24. Check gear mesh/backlash where applicable; if adjustable, set per OEM spec using shims or spacer method. Improper backlash causes premature wear and noise.

H. Final assembly and testing
25. Fit case halves together with new gaskets or RTV as specified and torque all case bolts to spec in the recommended sequence. Ensure dowels align.
26. Reinstall external components, linkages, forks and ensure shift mechanism moves smoothly across all gears. Confirm synchronizer sleeve smooth engagement by hand.
27. Refill with OEM‑specified gear oil (heavy truck manual transmissions commonly use GL‑5 gear oil — confirm grade and capacity in the service manual).
28. Bench test rotation through gears while gearbox supported to confirm no binding, and that synchronizers engage and hold smoothly.
29. Reinstall transmission to vehicle, reconnect linkages and clutch, torque bellhousing bolts to spec. Reconnect battery, fill and check for leaks.
30. Road test under controlled conditions: verify shift quality and absence of gear slip or noise. Check for leaks and re‑check oil level after break‑in.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing worn synchro rings, springs or sleeves — replace all rings/springs of affected synchronizers.
- Not marking part orientation — mark or label every shaft/gear assembly to avoid reassembly errors.
- Pressing on the wrong bearing race and destroying bearing — always press on correct race or use appropriate adapters.
- Overheating rings or springs — heat only enough to fit; overheating changes temper and destroys spring memory.
- Not replacing seals and gaskets — leads to leaks.
- Incorrect shimming/end‑float — causes noise, premature wear, or bearing failure. Always measure and set to OEM spec.
- Forcing damaged dog teeth — do not file or try to repair; replace the hub or gear.
- Ignoring contamination — metal debris indicates internal failure; clean case thoroughly and inspect for damaged gears.
- Improper torque on critical nuts (mainshaft, hub nuts) — always use service torque values; incorrect torque can change preload and end‑float.
- Skipping bench testing — assemble and check movement before final installation to avoid tearing down after vehicle installation.

When replacement components are necessary
- Replace any synchromesh ring showing notches, glazing, or missing teeth.
- Replace hub or sleeve if engagement teeth are rounded/notched.
- Replace bearings and races showing pitting or roughness.
- Replace gears with chipped or broken teeth — do not weld or attempt field repair on running gear.
- Replace all seals, O‑rings and gaskets removed during disassembly.

Notes on measurements and specs
- Exact torques, bearing preload, end‑float and backlash values vary by transmission model/serial number. Obtain the Ford Trader service manual or OEM gearbox manual for T3000/T3500/T4000 for the precise numbers and sequence. Use the specified oil grade and capacity.

Post‑repair recommendations
- Change the gearbox oil after a short break‑in run (50–200 miles) to remove any remaining break‑in debris.
- Monitor for noise or shifting issues and re‑check linkage adjustment after initial road testing.

Finished.
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