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Ford Trader T3000 T3500 T4000 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Full metric/SAE hand tool set (sockets, ratchets, extensions, breaker bar)
- Torque wrench (suitable range for rod bolts; 0–200 ft·lb or 0–300 N·m), torque-angle gauge if bolts are angle-specified
- Engine support/hoist (if engine needs lifting) and jack stands
- Oil drain pan, catch bottles, funnels
- Cleaning solvent, lint‑free rags, gasket scraper
- Plastigauge (correct type for expected clearance range)
- Micrometer (0.01 mm or 0.0001 in resolution) and outside micrometer for journals, or dial bore gauge if available
- Feeler gauges (auxiliary tasks)
- Soft-face hammer, wooden dowel or piston stop
- New rod bearings (complete set for engine), new rod bolts/nuts if specified (see notes)
- Assembly lube (engine bearing grease) and engine oil
- Sealant/gasket material and new oil pan gasket
- Torque-to-yield bolt replacement set if used on your engine
- Oil filter and new engine oil
- Battery disconnect tool, safety glasses, gloves

Safety precautions (read and follow)
- Work on a flat, level surface; block wheels and use quality jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect battery before starting. Support engine if removing mounts.
- Drain oil before opening oil pan. Dispose of oil properly.
- Use eye protection, gloves, and avoid loose clothing. Keep clear of raised hood/hoist loads.
- If you’re unsure about torque specs, clearances, or reconditioning crank journals, stop and consult the factory service manual or a qualified machinist. Incorrect assembly can cause catastrophic engine failure.

Overview and notes
- Obtain the Ford Trader service manual (T3000/T3500/T4000) for exact rod-cap torque, rod-bolt replacement policy, bearing part numbers, and target bearing clearance specifications. Many rod bolts are single‑use (torque-to-yield) and must be replaced.
- Rod bearings are a matched shell (upper and lower). Do NOT mix shells between rods or invert shells.
- If crank journals are scored or out-of-round beyond spec, the crank must be machined or replaced. Bearing replacement alone only works if journal condition is within spec.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Acquire correct replacement bearings and any specified rod bolts. Clean, well-lit workspace. Have the manual/specs at hand.
- Drain engine oil and remove oil filter. Disconnect battery.

2) Access
- Remove items blocking access to oil pan: skid plates, crossmembers, exhaust sections per manual.
- Support engine if removing mounts. Remove oil pan and inspection covers per manual. Remove oil pickup if needed — keep it clean and capped.

3) Pre-mark components
- Rotate engine to TDC for cylinder 1 (manual per engine). Mark each connecting rod and cap with a unique ID and mark orientation (cap-to-rod and direction of front). Use numbered tags or scribe—caps must return to their original rods in the same orientation unless bearings are being replaced with new matched sets and rods are reassembled per manual.

4) Remove rod caps (one rod at a time)
- Work one rod at a time to prevent pistons from dropping. Loosen and remove rod cap bolts/nuts. Tap rod cap off carefully with soft hammer; don’t pry on bearing.
- Keep caps with their rod and note cap orientation. Remove the lower bearing shell from the cap and the upper shell from the rod. Keep parts in order.

5) Inspect journals, rods, and bearings
- Examine bearings for wear patterns, scoring, discoloration. Light polishing is OK; heavy scoring or cupping requires crank machining.
- Clean rod and cap bores thoroughly of old material and oil. Check rod alignment per manual if suspect.
- Measure crankshaft journal diameter with micrometer at multiple positions and compare to specs. If you have a dial bore or mic to measure bearing shell thickness, calculate clearance (journal diameter minus bearing ID). If you do not have measurement tools, use plastigauge (described below) but if journals are visibly damaged, don’t proceed with new shells only.

6) Fit new bearings
- Install new bearing shells into rod and cap. Ensure tangs/tabs seat into the grooves and oil holes align. Do not use sealant between shell and rod.
- Apply a thin film of assembly lube to the bearing surface (or a short bead of engine oil) so initial startup has lubrication.

7) Plastigauge clearance check (if confirming clearance)
- Cut a 20–30 mm length of plastigauge and lay it across the crankshaft journal on the rod journal (not the cap). Do NOT wrap it around.
- Carefully install the rod cap (with new bearing shell) and hand-start the bolts. Torque to the service manual check torque used for measurement (manual may call for final torque but some use the final torque for plastigauge; follow manual). If manual not available, torque to about 30–50% of final value just to seat without deforming plastigauge — but the correct approach is to use factory-specified torque for plastigauge to simulate true clamp load.
- Remove the cap without rotating the crank. The plastigauge will be squashed into a thin sausage. Measure the widest thickness against the printed plastigauge scale to read clearance.
- Compare measured clearance to the manual’s spec. Repeat for each rod journal.

8) Interpretation and corrective action
- If clearance is within spec: proceed to final assembly (see step 9).
- If clearance is too tight: do not run the engine. Options: confirm measurements; if correct, undersized bearing or oversize journal—use correct bearing undersize (if available) or have crank ground undersize and use matching bearings.
- If clearance is too large: bearings or journals worn; replace with correct size bearings or consider crank regrind/shaft replacement.

9) Final assembly
- Clean mating surfaces and threads; lightly oil bolt threads only if manual calls for it (some bolts must be dry). If bolts are torque-to-yield, install new ones.
- Apply assembly lube generously to bearing surface and journal.
- Fit cap in correct orientation. Tighten rod bolts in the correct sequence in increments if required: snug, then final torque in one shot or in steps per manual. If bolts require angle torque, use torque-angle gauge and new bolts.
- Rotate crank by hand two full revolutions after torquing to ensure free rotation and piston-to-valve clearances (valve timing dependent). Re-check torque if manual specifies retorque after rotation.

10) Reassembly of oil system and oil pan
- Reinstall oil pickup, pump if removed, and oil pan with new gasket and sealant per manual. Fill with recommended oil and replace filter.
- Prime oiling system: either use an external priming tool or crank the engine with fuel/ignition disabled (or using starter with glow disabled on diesel) until oil pressure is indicated. Check for leaks.
- Reconnect battery, start engine and monitor oil pressure, listen for knock, and watch for leaks. Break-in procedures: run at varied rpm for first 30 minutes and recheck torque/clearances per manual if required.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Mixing rod caps or inverting shells: always mark and keep rods and caps together; orient tabs correctly.
- Reusing torque-to-yield bolts: replace them. Reused TTY bolts can fail.
- Not checking journals: installing bearings on damaged journals will cause rapid failure.
- Using incorrect bearing size: order bearings matched to crank journal size (standard, undersize #1, #2, etc.).
- Over-torquing or improper torquing sequence: use calibrated torque wrench and follow manual sequence.
- Not cleaning debris: metal shavings or grit will destroy bearings very quickly — thoroughly clean oil passages and sump.
- Using plastigauge incorrectly: it distorts if rotated or over-torqued. Use it flat, do not rotate crank while plastigauge is installed.
- Not priming oil system before start: dry-starting bearings kills them.
- Not replacing oil filter and oil: contaminants from failure must be removed.

When to replace other parts
- Replace rod bolts/nuts if specified (TTY), replace oil filter and oil, oil pump if worn or contaminated. If journals are scored, machine shop work (grind and undersize bearings) or crankshaft replacement is required.

Final notes
- Exact torque values, rod bolt replacement policy, and target bearing clearances are engine-specific. Obtain the Ford Trader T3000/T3500/T4000 workshop manual and use those values. If any measurement is out of spec or you’re unsure about journal condition, have the crank checked by a machine shop before proceeding.
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