Tools & consumables
- Floor jack (rated for vehicle weight) and heavy-duty jack stands / axle stands (truck-rated).
- Wheel chocks, wheel brace.
- Socket set (metric), deep sockets, combination wrenches (including large sizes for truck fasteners).
- Breaker bar, extensions.
- 1/2" and 3/8" drive torque wrench calibrated to appropriate ranges; large torque wrench for heavy bolts if needed.
- Impact wrench (use carefully for removal only).
- Pry bar, long pry bar for leverage.
- Hammer, drift/punch.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 specialist).
- Bushing removal/installation tools: hydraulic press or C-clamp with bushing drivers, or bushing puller tool.
- Bench vise (optional).
- Wire brush, rag, brake cleaner.
- Anti-seize compound, thread locker (blue medium strength where specified by manual).
- Grease (EP grease for rubber/urethane bushings) or specific bushing grease.
- Replacement parts: stabilizer (sway) bar bushings, bushing brackets/clamps, stabilizer links (drop links/end-links), mounting bolts/nuts/washers. Consider replacing any heavily corroded bolts or hardware.
- Personal protective equipment (safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots).

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
1. Chock rear wheels and set parking brake. Work on level ground.
2. Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always use properly rated jack stands placed under the frame.
3. Support the axle or control arm when removing links or the bar to prevent sudden movement of suspension components.
4. Use correct rated stands for truck weight; do not crawl under unsupported vehicle.
5. Wear eye protection and gloves. Be cautious of rusted hardware that can break.
6. If springs or other suspension components are compressed, use proper spring compressors/hold-downs. Do not improvise.

General notes before starting
- Consult the Hino 500 Series factory workshop manual for exact fastener sizes and torque specifications for your specific model/year — use those values for final torques.
- Inspect the whole stabilizer system: bar, links, bushings, brackets, mounting points, and nearby brake lines or wiring for interference.
- Replace all worn bushings and links; reusing brittle rubber or damaged hardware leads to rework.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Preparation
- Park on level surface, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while vehicle is on the ground (if wheels must be removed).
- Lift the front of the truck using a floor jack under the recommended lift points; raise high enough to place stands under the frame.
- Place jack stands under the frame or manufacturer-specified support points. Lower vehicle onto stands securely.
- Remove wheels for access if necessary.

2. Support suspension to remove load from stabilizer
- Place a jack or support under the axle or lower control arm to hold the suspension at normal ride height. This prevents the bar from being under unexpected load or twisting during removal.
- If you will remove end-links, supporting the axle prevents the control arm from dropping.

3. Inspect and free fasteners
- Spray all stabilizer mounting bolts, brackets and link nuts with penetrating oil and let soak (15–30 min) for rusted parts.
- Identify fastener sizes; use appropriate sockets/wrenches.
- Use breaker bar to break loose stubborn nuts. Use impact gun for removal if available, but final installation must be torqued by hand with torque wrench.

4. Remove end-links
- Remove the nut(s) securing each stabilizer end-link to the control arm or axle and to the bar (depending on design). For Hino 500 trucks, links may be large studs with nuts; use two wrenches (one to hold stud, one to turn nut) or use an Allen/hex if fitted.
- If link studs spin, use punch/hex to hold the stud or use an impact.
- Remove links. Replace with new links if there is play or damaged studs/bushings.

5. Remove bushing brackets and stabilizer bar
- Remove bushing clamp/ bracket bolts that secure the bar to the frame. On trucks these are heavy bolts—use breaker bar.
- Once bracket bolts are removed, pry the bar out of its rubber bushings/brackets. Use a pry bar if necessary, supporting the bar to prevent sudden movement.
- Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.

6. Disassemble and prepare parts
- Remove old bushings from the bar. If bushings are seized on the bar, use press or vise with suitable drivers to press them off. Heating lightly with a heat gun can help (do not flame).
- Clean bar mounting areas and bracket surfaces with wire brush and solvent. Remove rust and burrs.
- Inspect bar for cracks, bends or damage. If bar is damaged, replace the bar assembly.

7. Install new bushings (if replacing)
- If using rubber bushings: lubricate interior of new bushing with recommended grease (do not use petroleum on rubber unless specified); fit bushings onto the bar with the split oriented per OEM instructions.
- If using polyurethane bushings: use the supplied grease as polyurethane requires lubrication to avoid squeak.
- Press bushings on using press or C‑clamp and bushing driver. Ensure they seat fully in groove/position.

8. Reinstall stabilizer bar
- Position bar into place under the chassis, align bushings with mounting pads.
- Fit new or cleaned brackets over bushings and loosely install bolts/nuts by hand to hold the bar. Do not torque fully yet.

9. Reinstall end-links
- Attach stabilizer end-links to the bar and to the control arm/axle. Insert bolts/studs and hand-tighten nuts.
- Ensure correct orientation and free movement where required (some link designs require a small rotational play).

10. Set suspension to ride height & final torque
- Ensure axle/suspension is supported at normal ride height (use jack to set same position as at start). This prevents pre-loading or binding of bushings when tightening.
- Torque all bracket and link bolts to the factory-specified values. If manual unavailable, example typical torque ranges (verify with manual): M12 ≈ 70–120 Nm, M16 ≈ 200–300 Nm, M20 ≈ 400–600 Nm. Use appropriate torque wrench.
- Apply thread locker where specified by manufacturer. Apply anti‑seize to certain bolts if recommended (check manual).

11. Final checks
- Spin front wheels (if removed) and reinstall lug nuts to spec; lower vehicle off stands carefully.
- Re-check all fasteners after lowering.
- Perform a bounce test and a short low-speed test drive listening for clunks or squeaks.
- Re-torque stabilizer fasteners after 50–100 km or as recommended.

How the tools are used (concise)
- Breaker bar: apply steady force to break loose rusted bolts; use cheater bar only if safe and rated.
- Impact wrench: use for removing seized nuts quickly; avoid using for final torque.
- Torque wrench: use for all final fasteners; set to specified Nm and tighten in a smooth single motion.
- Press / C-clamp with drivers: to remove/install bushings squarely without damaging the bar.
- Penetrating oil + wire brush: frees rusted threads and cleans mating surfaces for reliable torques.
- Pry bar: to manoeuvre bar into/out of mounts; support bar so it doesn’t drop suddenly.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing worn bushings or links: leads to noise and premature failure — replace worn components.
- Tightening brackets with suspension drooped: causes pre-load and rapid bushing wear — support at ride height before torquing.
- Over-tightening bushings: crushing rubber causes binding; torque per manual and use supplied shims if required.
- Stripping bolt heads/studs: use the correct socket size, keep sockets fully seated; use penetrating oil and heat if necessary.
- Ignoring bracket/contact surfaces: rust or high spots will misalign parts — clean mating surfaces.
- Not checking for interference: ensure bar and links do not contact brake lines, wiring, or exhaust.
- Forgetting to re-torque: fasteners can settle — re-torque after short road test.

Replacement parts typically required
- Stabilizer bar bushings (rubber or polyurethane)
- Bushing brackets / clamps (if corroded or damaged)
- Stabilizer end-links/drop-links (recommended to replace both sides)
- Mounting bolts/nuts/washers (replace any stretched or corroded fasteners)
- Stabilizer bar (if bent/cracked)

Finish & verification
- After test drive, re-inspect fasteners and bushings for movement, noise or leaks.
- Document replacements and torque values for future service.

End.
rteeqp73

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