- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and chemical-resistant gloves to protect eyes/skin from hot oil and coolant.
- Work on a cool engine; if you must start warm, be careful—hot oil/coolant scalds.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid accidental engine starts.
- Use jack stands on a level surface if you must raise the truck; never rely on a jack alone.
- Have a fire extinguisher and absorbent pads nearby for spills.

- What the job is (short)
- Service/replace the engine oil cooler (heat exchanger that cools engine oil, often by engine coolant) — involves draining fluids, disconnecting oil/coolant lines, removing the cooler, replacing seals or the cooler if damaged, then refilling and checking for leaks.

- Tools you need (each tool explained and how to use it)
- Metric socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Use to remove bolts that hold the oil cooler, brackets, and any engine covers. Pick the correct socket size, fit squarely, use extension for deep bolts, and turn steadily to avoid rounding heads.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- For bolts/nuts in tight places where a ratchet won’t fit. Place wrench fully on the nut and pull steadily; use a flare-nut wrench for soft fittings (see below).
- Flare-nut (line) wrench set
- Thin-sided wrench that grips three sides of a tube fitting; use to loosen/tighten oil or coolant hard line fittings without rounding them. Essential for banjo or flare fittings on oil/cooler lines.
- Torque wrench (click-type, metric range)
- Required to tighten bolts and line fittings to manufacturer specs. Set required torque and tighten until the wrench clicks — prevents under- or over-tightening that leads to leaks or stripped threads.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Remove hose clamps, clips, or small fasteners. Use the correct tip size to avoid damaging screws.
- Pliers (needle-nose and locking/vice-grip)
- Remove hose clamps, hold components, or pull pins. Use locking pliers to hold a stubborn part, but avoid crushing lines.
- Oil drain pan (large capacity)
- Catch used engine oil safely. Use a wide, shallow pan under the oil filter and cooler area to catch draining oil.
- Coolant drain container / coolant catch pan
- Catch coolant if you open the coolant side of the cooler or drain the system.
- Funnel and clean refill containers
- For refilling engine oil and coolant without spillage.
- Shop rags and absorbent pads
- Clean up spills and wipe mating surfaces.
- Plastic zip-lock caps or plugs (sized)
- Temporarily cap open oil/coolant lines to prevent contamination and leaks while parts are off.
- Gasket scraper / plastic scraper
- Remove old gasket material without gouging mating surfaces.
- O‑ring / pick set
- Remove old O-rings from fittings and recesses safely for replacement.
- New crush washers / copper washers and O‑rings (spares)
- Replace on banjo bolts/fittings to ensure a seal.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Spray on corroded bolts before attempting removal; helps avoid rounding or breaking bolts.
- Brake cleaner or parts cleaner and brush
- Clean mating surfaces and oil cooler exterior before reinstall.
- Service manual or access to Hino 500 Series workshop data
- Use to find exact torque specs, bolt locations, and model-specific steps. A must-have for correct reassembly.
- Oil filter wrench
- Remove the oil filter cleanly. Use the correct size/type (strap or cap style).
- New engine oil and new oil filter
- Required after drain and reassembly; use the grade and capacity specified by Hino.
- New coolant (and replaced coolant hoses if cut/old)
- If coolant was drained or the cooler was on the coolant circuit, refill with the correct type and concentration.

- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Bench vice or soft-jaw vice
- Helpful for holding the oil cooler or banjo fittings while you work; protects parts from damage.
- Inspection mirror and flashlight
- For seeing bolts and lines tucked behind the engine.
- Torque angle gauge / specialty torques
- Some bolts may require angle tightening; the workshop manual will say if needed.
- Hydraulic jack + heavy-duty jack stands (if the truck must be lifted)
- Trucks are heavy; use appropriately rated stands and a heavy-duty jack.
- Diagnostic scan tool (optional)
- Some modern engines require clearing codes or monitoring oil-temperature or pressure sensors after work.

- When parts must be replaced and why (what to replace)
- Replace the oil cooler assembly if:
- Oil and coolant are mixing (milky oil or oil in coolant) — indicates internal cooler failure.
- Visible cracks, corrosion, or coolant/oil leaks from the cooler body or internal seams.
- Internal blockage that can’t be cleaned or fins severely corroded/damaged.
- Replace seals and consumables every time:
- O-rings, gaskets, crush washers on banjo bolts/lines — soft copper washers and O-rings compress and won’t seal reliably when reused.
- Oil filter — required whenever oil is drained and replaced.
- Engine oil — required after draining.
- Coolant (if drained or contaminated) — if coolant was opened or contaminated by oil, flush and replace.
- Replace lines or hoses if:
- They are cracked, collapsed, or show signs of leakage — old rubber hoses can fail when disturbed.
- Replacement parts to order (model-dependent):
- Oil cooler assembly (OEM part number for your Hino 500 engine/model)
- Oil cooler gasket(s) or O‑ring kit
- Banjo bolt(s) and copper crush washers
- Oil filter (correct spec)
- Engine oil (correct grade and quantity)
- Engine coolant (correct type)
- Hose clamps or hoses if required

- Step-by-step procedure (concise, beginner-friendly bullets)
- Prepare area: park on level ground, chock wheels, gather tools and fluids, put on PPE.
- Warm engine briefly then turn off (warm oil drains easier); allow to cool slightly so it’s safe to touch but not cold.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Locate the oil cooler — typically mounted near the oil filter housing or on the engine block; consult manual or follow oil filter lines.
- Place oil drain pan under the cooler/filter area; place coolant catch pan under potential coolant drains.
- Remove engine covers or shields that block access using sockets/screwdrivers.
- Drain engine oil:
- Remove oil drain plug and oil filter; allow oil to drain into pan.
- Keep oil drain plug and new crush washer ready for reinstallation.
- If the cooler uses coolant, partially drain coolant to below the cooler connection level, or isolate/cap the hoses to minimize coolant loss.
- Loosen oil lines to the cooler with a flare-nut wrench; remove banjo bolts or fittings carefully and recover crush washers.
- Cap open lines immediately with plugs to avoid contamination and spills.
- Remove coolant hoses from the cooler (if applicable) — remove clamps and pull off carefully; expect some coolant to escape.
- Remove mounting bolts for the oil cooler with socket/wrench; support the cooler with a hand as you loosen bolts to prevent dropping.
- Extract the oil cooler assembly; inspect mating surfaces and the cooler body for damage or contamination (look for milky oil, corrosion, cracks).
- Clean mating surfaces on engine block/housing with a plastic scraper and parts cleaner; avoid metal gouging.
- Replace all seals: fit new O-rings/gaskets and fresh crush washers on banjo bolts.
- If reusing the cooler only after cleaning, flush the cooler externally and internally with parts cleaner or appropriate flush fluid until clean and dry.
- Mount the oil cooler back into position, hand-thread bolts then torque to spec with torque wrench (consult workshop manual for values).
- Reconnect oil lines/banjo bolts and tighten to specified torque with new crush washers.
- Reconnect coolant hoses and clamps; tighten securely.
- Reinstall oil filter and refill with new engine oil to the correct level.
- Refill or top-up coolant and bleed the cooling system per Hino procedure to remove air pockets (manual describes bleed points).
- Reconnect negative battery.
- Start engine, idle and inspect for leaks around oil cooler, lines, banjo bolts, and filter. Monitor oil pressure and temperature.
- After a short run (and when oil has reached normal temperature), shut off engine and re-check torque on accessible fittings per the manual.
- Check oil and coolant levels again and top up as necessary.
- Dispose of used oil and coolant properly at an approved recycling facility.

- Signs you must replace the cooler now
- Milky or foamy oil on the dipstick or in the oil filler cap (coolant in oil).
- Oil in the coolant reservoir (oil slick or brown film).
- Persistent external leaks from cooler body or fittings after tightening with new seals.
- Loss of oil pressure caused by a leaking/blocked cooler.
- Severe corrosion or cracked fins/housing.

- Quick troubleshooting tips
- If fittings resist: apply penetrating oil, let soak, then use flare-nut wrench. Heat (with caution) can help stubborn bolts but be careful near rubber lines.
- Small leaks at banjo bolts usually mean the crush washer or bolt torque is wrong — replace washers and torque to spec.
- If you see coolant in oil after reassembly, stop and don’t run the engine — the cooler is likely leaking internally and must be replaced.

- Final notes
- Always use the Hino 500 Series workshop manual for exact part numbers, torque specs, and engine-specific steps — those specs are essential.
- Replace consumables (O-rings, crush washers, oil filter, oil, coolant) every time; they are inexpensive insurance against leaks.
- If you’re not confident with fluid systems or if the cooler is corroded/ruptured, replacing the whole cooler assembly is safer than attempting repair.

- Safe disposal
- Take used oil, oil filter, and used coolant to a licensed recycling center — don’t pour down drains.

End of instructions.
rteeqp73

Motor Hino 500 Motor hino 500 6 cilindros inspección visual.

How To Do Daily inspections - Hino 500 Series Standard Do you need help with the daily inspection of your Hino 500 Series truck? Watch this Prestige Hino video to how to do a Hino 500 ...

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