1) Quick theory summary (what the automatic clutch does)
- The clutch transmits engine torque to the gearbox by friction between a driven disc and the flywheel/pressure plate. Automatic-clutch systems replace a conventional pedal with an actuator (air/hydraulic + sensors + ECU) that applies/releases clamp load at the pressure plate.
- Failures are due to: worn/contaminated friction material (slip), warped flywheel or weak diaphragm spring (chatter/poor clamp), worn release bearing/fork (poor release), actuator leaks/pressure loss or sensor/calibration faults (no or inconsistent engagement).

2) Diagnose and isolate the root cause (ordered checks)
- Read fault codes from vehicle/AMT ECU; note sensor failures and actuator faults.
- Verify actuation medium: check air pressure reservoir and lines for leaks or loss of pressure, or hydraulic fluid level/pressure if hydraulic.
- Do a functional test: command engage/disengage from diagnostics while engine off; listen for actuator movement, note travel and pressure. Theory: differentiates actuator/control faults from mechanical wear.
- Check for slip: run engine at set RPM in a safe place and command engagement; slipping under load indicates friction loss or low clamp force.
- Inspect for contamination: smell/visual signs of oil on clutch housing (rear main seal or transmission input shaft seal). Theory: oil contamination reduces friction coefficient and causes glazing.

3) Preparation and safety
- Chock wheels, set park brake, block vehicle.
- Relieve air/hydraulic pressure and pump down reservoirs; disconnect battery negative to avoid ECU actuator commands during work.
- Use appropriate stands/jacks and transmission support. Theory: transmission must be supported before separation.

4) Remove driveline and access clutch
- Remove propshaft(s), PTO drives if fitted, transmission crossmember, gear linkage, electrical connectors, actuator lines and sensors from gearbox.
- Support gearbox with transmission jack; remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts and separate gearbox from engine. Theory: the clutch assembly is between flywheel and gearbox input; separation needed for access.

5) Inspect clutch, pressure plate and flywheel
- With gearbox removed, inspect clutch disc for wear, glazing, rivet exposure, grease/oil contamination and spline wear.
- Inspect pressure plate for diaphragm spring condition, heat spots, cracks.
- Remove flywheel and check surface for hot spots, scoring, runout (measured with dial indicator). Theory: uneven flywheel surface or excessive runout causes chatter, uneven friction and accelerated wear.

6) Decide repair scope
- Replace clutch disc and pressure plate as a kit if worn or contaminated. Theory: restores friction material and clamp characteristics.
- Resurface or replace flywheel if glazed, scored or beyond runout/specs. Resurfacing restores a flat, consistent friction surface and removes hotspots; replacing restores correct mass and runout if damaged.
- Replace pilot bushing/bearing and transmission input shaft seal if contaminated. Theory: worn pilot or leaking seals lead to contamination and misalignment.
- Replace release bearing/actuator interface parts and inspect release fork and guide sleeve. Theory: worn release bearing causes rough release and uneven engagement; actuator interface wear affects travel.

7) Component replacement and detailed steps (in order)
- Remove clutch cover bolts in a star pattern gradually to relieve spring preload evenly.
- Remove clutch disc and pressure plate; inspect spline and input shaft.
- Install new pilot bushing/bearing into crankshaft if required.
- If flywheel is resurfaced/replaced, ensure correct orientation and torque for crank bolts (use new bolts if required).
- Use alignment tool to center the new disc on the flywheel; fit pressure plate and tighten bolts progressively in a star pattern to specified torque (consult Hino torque specs). Theory: centering and even torque ensure correct clutch disc position and uniform clamp load.
- Replace release bearing (and any actuator rod/clevis sleeves). If pneumatic/hydraulic slave is serviceable, replace seals or the entire actuator if leaking or sticky.
- Clean splines and lightly grease only the splines (avoid contaminating the friction surfaces). Theory: correct spline condition ensures smooth input-shaft movement and engagement.

8) Reassemble transmission and connect controls
- Mate transmission to engine, making sure input shaft aligns with clutch disc; torque bellhousing bolts to spec.
- Reconnect actuator air/hydraulic lines, sensors and electrical connectors.
- Refit propshaft, crossmember and any removed linkage.
- Reconnect battery and restore air/hydraulic pressure.

9) System bleeding, leak check and actuator/ECU calibration
- If hydraulic, bleed clutch actuator lines per procedure until no air. If pneumatic, verify correct reservoir pressure and absence of leaks.
- Run the AMT/clutch relearn/calibration routine with diagnostic tool so the ECU learns the zero/clutch travel and engages at the correct position. Theory: the automatic system needs correct reference points and pressure/position feedback for smooth automated engagement.

10) Functional static tests
- With engine idling, command engagement/disengagement and observe clutch position sensors, actuator pressure and engine load response. Check for excessive slip, dragging or noise.
- Check for oil leaks at rear main and transmission input shaft.

11) Road test and verification
- Conduct a staged road test: light load, then normal load, observing engagement smoothness, absence of slip, chatter, or delayed engagement across gear shifts. Monitor AMT fault codes after test. Theory: under load the restored friction surface and proper actuator pressure will show correct torque transfer and smooth engagement.

12) How each repair action fixes specific faults (concise mapping)
- Replacing disc/pressure plate: fixes slip from worn friction material, restores correct clamp force and engagement torque.
- Flywheel resurfacing/replacement: fixes chatter, vibration and uneven engagement caused by hot spots, glazing or runout.
- Replacing release bearing/fork/guide: fixes rough or incomplete disengagement, noise, and uneven pressure that cause judder.
- Replacing seals/pilot bushing: eliminates oil contamination and misalignment that cause rapid wear and slip.
- Repairing actuator leaks/hoses/valves: restores required actuation pressure/force so clutch can fully engage/disengage under ECU command.
- Calibrating ECU/actuator: ensures correct travel and timing of engagement so shifts are smooth and torque transfer is predictable.

13) Final checks and documentation
- Tighten and re-torque critical fasteners after a short test period (per manufacturer recommendation).
- Clear ECU codes and record replaced parts and calibration results.

Notes and cautions (brief)
- Always use OEM parts or equivalent and follow Hino workshop torque and calibration procedures exactly.
- Work is heavy-duty and hazardous — use certified lifting equipment and obey shop safety practices.
- If uncertain about AMT calibration steps or actuator replacement, perform with official Hino diagnostic tool and procedure.

This is the ordered repair flow with the theory behind each action and how each fix corrects common clutch faults.
rteeqp73

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