- Safety (read before starting)
- Wear eye protection, gloves and steel-toe boots; use jack stands whenever vehicle is lifted.
- Work on a level surface, chock wheels, disconnect battery, relieve drivetrain loads before unbolting.
- If you are unsure at any stage or lack lifting/press equipment, stop and use a professional — gearbox work can cause serious injury.

- Essential basic tools (you said you have basic tools; these explain use)
- Combination wrench set (open-end and box-end)
- Description: Standard wrenches in metric sizes for nuts/bolts.
- Use: Fit the correct size, pull/turn with steady force; use box end for higher torque, open end for tight spaces.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric)
- Description: Ratchet handle + sockets; extensions to reach deep bolts.
- Use: Choose correct socket, attach to ratchet; apply controlled force; use breaker bar for stubborn bolts (see below).
- Breaker bar
- Description: Long non-ratcheting bar for extra leverage.
- Use: Fit to socket, apply slow steady pressure to break loose tight fasteners—don’t use cheater pipes on ratchets.
- Torque wrench (click type)
- Description: Calibrated wrench to tighten bolts to specified torque.
- Use: Set required torque, tighten bolt until wrench clicks; critical for bellhousing, trans bolts, and axle nuts.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: Assorted heads and sizes.
- Use: For prying small clips, removing cover screws; avoid using screwdrivers as chisels.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose)
- Description: Grip and manipulate clips and wires.
- Use: Hold small parts, remove cotter pins and clips.
- Circlip / snap-ring pliers
- Description: Internal and external types to remove/install circlips.
- Use: Fit tips into ring holes, squeeze to compress/expand ring and remove/install safely.
- Hammer and brass/soft-faced drift
- Description: Steel hammer for heavy tasks; brass or soft-faced to avoid marring parts.
- Use: Tap stubborn parts loose; use soft drift when reassembling bearings/gears to avoid damage.
- Punches and drifts
- Description: Center punches and drift pins for driving out pins and alignment.
- Use: Align holes and drive out roll pins/circlips.
- Flat pry bar
- Description: For separating housings and shifting components.
- Use: Apply gradual, even pressure to avoid bending flanges.
- Jack and jack stands
- Description: Hydraulic floor jack plus rated stands.
- Use: Lift vehicle, place stands under recommended points; never rely on jack alone.
- Drain pan and funnel
- Use: Catch gear oil when draining transmission.
- Wire brush and cleaning solvent
- Use: Clean mating surfaces and parts before inspection/reassembly.
- Marker or scribe
- Use: Mark positions of shafts/gears before disassembly to preserve orientation.

- Recommended additional / specialist tools and why they are required (detailed)
- Transmission jack or engine hoist with adapter
- Description: Low-profile jack specifically for supporting/removing transmissions.
- Why required: Transmissions are heavy and awkward—jack allows safe lowering/removal. Alternative: two people and floor jack, but risky.
- Use: Center under gearbox, secure with strap, lower slowly after bellhousing bolts removed.
- Hydraulic press (or access to machine shop)
- Description: Press to remove/install bearings, bushings, and gear-on-shaft fits.
- Why required: Bearings and gears are interference-fit; trying to hammer them risks damage. If you don't own one, use a machine shop for bearing removal/installation.
- Use: Support workpiece, press using correct adapters; press straight and slow.
- Bearing puller / gear puller
- Description: Mechanical tool to pull off bearings or gears.
- Why required: To remove stubborn bearings/gears without damage when a press is not available.
- Use: Seat jaws behind bearing, tighten center bolt to pull; protect shaft ends and apply even force.
- Micrometer and vernier caliper
- Description: Precision measuring tools for shaft diameters, tooth thickness and clearances.
- Why required: Gear lash, bearing fit and endplay must be checked to OEM specs; guessing leads to failure.
- Use: Measure diameters and thickness, take multiple readings, record values.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- Description: Measures runout and backlash.
- Why required: To set backlash between mating gears when reassembling; improper backlash causes noise and rapid wear.
- Use: Mount indicator on stable surface, probe gear tooth, rotate and read variation.
- Seal puller and installer
- Description: Remove and install oil seals without damage.
- Why required: Output/input seals often replaced when gearbox split.
- Use: Hook behind seal lip and pull; press new seal evenly using installer tool or suitable socket.
- Bearing heater or induction heater (optional)
- Description: Heats bearings to expand them for press-fit installation.
- Why required: Makes installing bearings easier and avoids hammering; useful for reassembly.
- Use: Heat evenly to recommended temperature; slide onto shaft quickly.
- RTV gasket sealant and OEM gasket kit / transmission gasket
- Why required: Prevent fluid leaks at split housings and covers.
- Use: Clean surfaces, apply a thin continuous bead as per manual, assemble within skin time.
- Clutch alignment tool (if removing clutch)
- Description: Aligns clutch disc to pilot bearing for bellhousing reinstallation.
- Use: Insert through clutch disc splines into pilot bearing, tighten pressure plate so mainshaft slides in easily when fitting transmission.

- Preliminary diagnosis steps (do before removing gearbox)
- Check shifter linkage and cables for damage, bushings, binding or misadjustment; lubricate pivot points.
- Check clutch operation: free play, pedal travel, fluid (if hydraulic); a slipping or dragging clutch can prevent reverse engagement.
- Check transmission fluid level and condition; metal shavings indicate internal wear.
- Try engaging reverse with engine off and hand-turning driveshaft (safely lifted) to feel if gear meshes or grinds—helps isolate gearbox vs driveline.
- If linkage and clutch OK and fluid low/dirty or metal in fluid → likely internal gearbox issue and removal required.

- Transmission removal (high-level bench-to-repair sequence)
- Prepare: Disconnect battery, chock wheels, jack vehicle, place on stands, drain gearbox oil into pan.
- Remove driveshaft / prop shaft: mark orientation, unbolt flange or U-joints, support shaft.
- Disconnect shifter linkage, speedo cable/pulse sensor, reverse light switch wiring and connectors; label connections.
- Remove starter and any crossmembers or exhaust components blocking gearbox access.
- Support transmission with transmission jack, unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts in a star pattern; slide transmission back slowly to clear input shaft.
- Lower gearbox to bench.

- Bench disassembly and inspection (do on clean bench, take lots of photos/mark parts)
- Clean exterior, then open gearbox by removing cover bolts; mark positions of forks, rails, and shafts to preserve orientation.
- Inspect reverse gear and mating idler gear:
- Look for chipped, rounded, or worn teeth, pitting, scoring.
- Inspect shift fork ends for wear or bending; worn forks prevent proper engagement.
- Inspect bearings (input, output, intermediate/layshaft bearings) for roughness, play or metal flakes.
- Inspect synchronizers (if present) and synchro rings for wear — reverse often unsynchromesh but adjacent gear condition matters.
- Inspect shafts for scoring, bluing (overheat), and splines.
- Inspect bushings and needle bearings for wear or collapse.
- Check for metal debris in sump/magnet—indicates internal damage.

- Common faults that cause reverse problems and what to replace
- Worn/damaged reverse idler gear (reverse gear / idler)
- Why replace: Broken/chipped teeth or excessive wear prevent proper engagement and cause grinding/noise.
- Replacement: Replace idler gear assembly (OEM or equivalent). If gear is integral to shaft, replace whole layshaft or idler assembly.
- Worn shift fork or rail
- Why replace: Forks that are bent or worn at contact points cannot fully engage reverse dog teeth.
- Replacement: Replace worn forks/rails; measure fork thickness and compare to spec.
- Damaged main/lay shaft gears or splines
- Why replace: Worn teeth or splines lead to poor engagement and slippage.
- Replacement: Replace damaged gears or entire shaft assembly if gears are integral.
- Worn bearings or bushings
- Why replace: Excessive end play/backlash leads to misalignment and poor gear mesh.
- Replacement: Replace bearings (roller/needle/ball) and bushings. Always replace bearings as matched sets per service manual.
- Broken or worn shift linkage parts (detent springs, selector forks, collars)
- Why replace: Internal selector mechanism failure prevents the shift collar from engaging reverse.
- Replacement: Replace worn selector collars, detents, springs.
- Seals and gaskets
- Why replace: Any time gearbox opened, seals/gaskets should be replaced to prevent leaks.
- Replacement: Input/output seals, case gasket or RTV.

- Reassembly critical checks and measurements
- Replace all bearings and seals as inspected; press-fit with correct drivers; use gentle, even pressure.
- Check gear backlash with dial indicator; adjust shims/bearings as per manual to achieve specified backlash.
- Check endplay on shafts with dial indicator and adjust thrust washers/shims to spec.
- Ensure shift forks locate correctly; check fork-to-collar clearance and gear engagement travel.
- Clean all parts, apply assembly lube on sliding surfaces and gear teeth during reassembly.
- Use new case gasket or proper RTV bead, torque bolts to OEM torque in correct sequence with torque wrench.
- Reinstall transmission using clutch alignment tool so input shaft enters easily; torque bellhousing bolts to spec.
- Reconnect linkage, sensors, driveshaft; refill gearbox with manufacturer-specified oil to correct level.

- How to use critical tools during tasks (quick how-to)
- Torque wrench: Set required torque, snug bolt, then torque to value slowly; check calibration periodically; store at lowest setting.
- Transmission jack: Center gearbox, strap securely, lift to mating height, guide into bellhousing while supporting weight; lower after bolts are engaged.
- Bearing puller / gear puller: Ensure puller is centered on the shaft, jaws engage behind the bearing lip, tighten center bolt slowly and evenly; use lubrication on threads to reduce force.
- Hydraulic press: Use correct diameter sleeves to press only on the bearing race being moved; keep workpiece square; press slowly and stop if binding occurs.
- Dial indicator: Mount base on stable surface, tip on gear tooth face, zero indicator, rotate gear several revolutions and record max/min to get backlash/runout.
- Micrometer/caliper: Close gently, take 3 readings at different positions and average; don't over-tighten measuring faces.

- Fluids, parts sourcing, and special notes
- Always use Hino-specified gearbox oil and quantity—check workshop manual. Typical heavy-duty transmissions use hypoid gear oil, but confirm.
- Purchase OEM parts where available: reverse idler gear, shift forks, bearings, seals, gasket kit, selector parts and any worn shafts. A rebuild kit for that transmission model is often available and saves hunting individual parts.
- If multiple gears or shafts are damaged, replacing the entire transmission or fitting a remanufactured gearbox may be more cost-effective.

- Final checks and road test
- Check for leaks, fill oil to correct level, and check clutch engagement.
- Test engagement of all gears (engine off and engine running) in a safe area; confirm reverse meshes smoothly and no grinding under load.
- Recheck torque on major bolts after first short run.

- When to get professional help / unavoidable shop procedures
- If you lack a press, dial indicator, transmission jack or ability to measure backlash and endplay, use a reputable transmission rebuilder or machine shop.
- Heavy repairs (shaft replacement, reseating bearings, setting backlash) require precision tools and are standard machine-shop work — trying to improvise will likely cause failure.

- Short parts checklist to have ready before starting
- Reverse idler gear / reverse gear assembly
- Shift forks and selector collars (or rebuild kit)
- Bearings (input, output, layshaft/intermediate)
- Seals (input/output) and case gasket/RTV
- Thrust washers/shims specified by manual
- Transmission oil (manufacturer spec)
- Optional: replacement layshaft or mainshaft if damaged

- Final note
- Follow the Hino FG17/FG19 workshop manual for exact disassembly order, torque specs, shim thicknesses and measurements. If you do not have the manual, obtain a copy before proceeding.


rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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