Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set and ratchet (3/8" and 1/2" drive) — sockets 12–22 mm (common sizes for accessory bolts and tensioner).
- Long breaker bar or dedicated serpentine-belt tool (long-handled 3/8" or 1/2" drive) to operate the tensioner.
- Torque wrench for final tightening to factory specs.
- Combination wrenches (metric).
- Screwdrivers and small pry bar.
- Belt dressing NOT recommended (do not use).
- New serpentine (multi‑rib) belt — correct OEM part/length for Hino FG17 / FG19.
- Replacement tensioner and/or idler pulley(s) if worn (recommended to replace if bearings noisy, pulleys glazed, or tensioner weak).
- Gloves, safety glasses, rags, penetrating oil.
- Wheel chocks and jack stands if you need to raise vehicle for access.
- Workshop manual or belt routing diagram.

Safety precautions
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Engine cold. Do not work on a hot engine.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when removing components or when you could inadvertently start the engine.
- Keep hands, tools and clothing away from moving parts when engine is running (only run engine for final check).
- Support hood securely.
- Use correct size tools to avoid rounding fasteners. Use torque wrench to factory specs.

Preparation
1. Obtain the correct replacement belt part number for the FG17/FG19 engine variant from the parts catalog or workshop manual.
2. Locate/photograph the belt routing diagram — usually on underside of hood or near radiator. If there isn’t one, draw/photograph routing before removal.
3. Inspect belt and components: check belt rib wear, glazing, cracks, oil contamination. Spin each pulley by hand to check bearing play/noise. If any pulleys or the tensioner feel rough or have excessive play, plan to replace them.

Step-by-step replacement
1. Access
- Remove any splash shields or accessory covers blocking access to the front of the engine.
- If necessary, raise and support the vehicle for better access to lower pulleys.

2. Relieve belt tension
- Identify the automatic belt tensioner (single movable pulley with spring).
- Fit the appropriate socket or serpentine tool to the square drive or hex on the tensioner (commonly 3/8" or 1/2" square hole or a 19–22 mm hex head).
- Apply steady force to rotate the tensioner in the direction that reduces belt tension (only rotate in the permitted direction). Typical action: pull the breaker bar toward you or rotate clockwise when facing the engine, but confirm direction — the tensioner should move to loosen the belt.
- Hold the tensioner in the released position.

How the tool is used: use the long breaker bar or serpentine tool inserted into the tensioner’s square drive or socket on the tensioner pulley bolt. The long handle gives leverage so you can smoothly compress the tensioner spring. Do not use sudden jerks that can snap the tool or strip the tensioner head. Keep one hand on the tool to control movement while you slip the belt off a pulley with the other hand.

3. Remove the belt
- While holding the tensioner released, slip the belt off one of the easiest-to-access pulleys (usually the alternator or idler).
- Slowly release the tensioner back to its rest position.
- Remove the belt completely and compare with the new belt to verify length and rib count.

4. Inspect pulleys and tensioner
- Rotate each pulley by hand and feel for roughness or play.
- Inspect pulley grooves and belt routing surfaces for cracks, sharp edges, or corrosion.
- If any pulley or the tensioner shows wear, replace it now. To replace tensioner/idler:
- Remove mounting bolts (retain bolts for reuse unless specified).
- Install new part, tighten to factory torque (use torque wrench and manual spec).
- Confirm new tensioner moves freely and returns when released.

5. Fit the new belt
- Route the new belt per the routing diagram. Make sure ribbed side mates with pulley grooves and ribless back runs over smooth pulleys where applicable.
- Leave the belt off one pulley (usually the easiest accessory to access) so you can re-tension easily.

6. Re-tension
- Rotate the tensioner again using the same tool/direction as before.
- Slip the last section of the belt over the final pulley.
- Carefully release tensioner so it applies full tension to the new belt. Ensure belt fully seats in all pulley grooves and that it sits squarely on pulleys.

7. Verify belt seating and run
- Double-check routing against diagram.
- Use a straightedge (or visually inspect) to ensure belt is centered in each groove.
- Rotate the engine by hand two full revolutions (using crankshaft pulley socket) to help the belt seat. Re-check alignment and tension.
- If you have a belt tension gauge, verify tension per factory spec. If not, check for proper deflection — belt should be snug with no significant slack and should not be over-tightened.

8. Final assembly and check
- Reinstall splash shields/guards.
- Reconnect battery if disconnected.
- Start engine and observe belt operation at idle — watch for noise, wobble, or misalignment.
- Re-check pulley bolt torques and that tensioner mounts are secure after a short run (~5 minutes) and again after 100–200 km.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong belt: Don’t substitute an incorrect length or rib count. Always match OEM part.
- No routing diagram: Photograph/diagram routing before removal. Improper routing will damage accessories.
- Not replacing worn tensioner/idlers: A new belt on worn components will fail quickly. If pulleys/bearings are noisy or have play, replace them.
- Over-rotating tensioner or forcing beyond travel: Can damage spring or break tool. Use controlled pressure.
- Allowing belt to ride on pulley edges or not seat in ribs: Causes noise and premature failure. Ensure full seating.
- Contamination: Do not allow oil/coolant/grease on belt — replace if contaminated.
- Starting engine immediately without inspection: Always visually check alignment and seating before running engine.
- Rounding tensioner fastener: Use correct-fit tools; use breaker bar/serpentine tool rather than pliers.

Replacement parts recommended
- New serpentine belt (OEM or high-quality aftermarket match).
- Tensioner assembly (if weak/noisy or > recommended service interval).
- Idler pulley(s) and any accessory pulley found worn.
- Mounting bolts if corroded or if specified as one-time-use in manual.

Torque and specs
- Use torque values from the Hino FG17/FG19 workshop manual for tensioner/alternator/accessory bolts. If manual is not available, do not guess torque — use a torque wrench and factory spec.

Estimated time
- 30–90 minutes depending on access and whether pulleys/tensioner are replaced.

Follow the workshop manual for any engine-specific notes. Completion checklist: correct belt fitted, pulleys/bearings good, tensioner functions, belt seated, no contamination, torques per manual, final run check.
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From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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