Ordered procedure (concise, with theory). Follow factory torques, clearances and fluid types from the Hino workshop manual.

Preparation and safety
1) Safety first — park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect battery, lift and support truck securely on axle stands. Theory: solid support prevents movement and injury while removing driveline components that can drop or torque suddenly.

Tools & parts
2) Gather: correct replacement output-shaft seal (match OEM part), seal driver or socket, torque wrench, sockets, pry tools, puller if needed, soft-faced hammer, gasket remover, cleaning solvent, lint-free rags, light oil/gear oil for pre-lube, dial indicator (for runout), feeler gauges, axle/shaft grease, new gaskets/lockwashers. Theory: correct seal geometry and seating tool are required to avoid distortion of the seal lip and ensure concentricity.

Access and fluid control
3) Drain transmission/transfer/differential oil if the seal is behind a housing that will vent oil during disassembly. Capture oil safely. Theory: removing the seal or housing will allow oil to escape; draining prevents contamination and spills and gives an opportunity to inspect oil condition for root causes (metal, varnish).

Remove driveline components
4) Mark and remove propeller/drive shaft from the output flange (match-mark orientation). Remove flange/retaining bolts, flange bearing retainer or dust cover as required to expose the seal. Theory: the shaft/flange must be removed to get access and to avoid damaging the new seal during reassembly; match-marking maintains balance and driveline phasing.

Remove seal housing / retainer
5) Remove any seal retainer, snap ring or bearing retainer to access the lip seal. If the seal is integral to a housing, remove the housing as per manual. Theory: many output seals are held by a pressed retainer; removing it allows direct access to the seal for extraction without distorting surrounding parts.

Extract the old seal
6) Carefully pry/extract the old seal using a seal puller or small screwdriver under the outer metal case — pry progressively around circumference, taking care not to score the shaft or bore. If a puller is needed, use even pressure. Theory: the seal is interference-fit; removing it without damaging the shaft journal or housing bore preserves the sealing surface for the new seal. Damage here is a common cause of re-leakage.

Inspect shaft and housing
7) Inspect the shaft journal where the seal lip rides: look for scores, grooves, corrosion, pitting, heat discoloration. Measure runout with a dial indicator and check radial/axial play of bearings. Inspect the housing bore and seal seat for burrs. Theory: seals rely on a smooth, concentric shaft surface and proper shaft alignment. Grooves or excessive runout prevent lip contact and allow leakage. Bearing wear or looseness causes shaft eccentricity that destroys seal life.

Decide repair scope
8) If shaft surface has light scuffs, polish with fine emery (very light) to restore smooth finish; deep grooves or pitting require shaft repair (sleeve) or shaft replacement. If bearings or retainer are worn or loose, replace them. Theory: a new seal cannot compensate for a damaged or out-of-round shaft or for axial/radial shaft movement; those are root causes and must be fixed or seal life will be short.

Prepare housing and new seal
9) Clean bore and shaft thoroughly, remove old sealant. Pre-lubricate the seal lip with gear oil/light oil. Confirm the seal orientation (lip toward fluid). If the seal has a garter spring, ensure spring is intact and faces correct direction. Theory: lubricant reduces dry run wear on first start and helps seating; correct orientation ensures hydrodynamic pumping direction of the lip prevents leakage.

Install new seal
10) Use a proper driver or suitably sized socket that contacts the outer metal case evenly. Press the seal squarely into the bore to the specified depth/seating stop—tap gently and evenly around the face until flush or to specified dimension. Do not cock the seal or hammer the lip. Theory: even seating preserves the circular shape and concentricity; skewing or excessive force distorts the lip and compromises the interference fit, producing immediate or early leaks.

Reassemble and torque
11) Reinstall any retainer, snap ring, flange and prop shaft in reverse order. Replace gaskets or apply specified sealant. Torque bolts to factory values and reinstall prop shaft matching marks. Theory: correct bolt torque and proper flange seating maintain concentric alignment and prevent flange movement that would damage the seal lip.

Refill and check
12) Refill to specified fluid level with correct oil. Start engine/operate driveline to bring system to temperature, then inspect for leaks while rotating the shaft slowly if possible. Road test under light load and recheck fluid level and seal area. Theory: running fills cavities, seating the lip fully, and reveals leaks under pressure and rotation. Recheck to ensure no slow seepage or pooling.

How the repair fixes the fault (theory)
- The seal lip forms a controlled interference contact with the shaft journal and often uses a garter spring to maintain radial loading; this creates a barrier preventing oil migration. Replacing a worn or hardened lip restores this elastic contact and the ability to maintain the hydrodynamic and elastohydrodynamic film that prevents leakage.
- Proper seating depth and concentricity ensure the lip contacts the shaft uniformly; that prevents localized leaks which occur when the lip rides on a high spot or gap from eccentricity.
- Addressing root causes (shaft damage, bearing play, misaligned flange, contaminated oil) removes the mechanical or surface conditions that destroy seals. Without correcting those, a new seal will fail prematurely.
- Pre-lubrication and correct orientation prevent initial dry rubbing and allow the seal to run-in to a correct surface finish matching the shaft.

Quick failure causes to check and correct (short list)
- Shaft scoring/grooves/corrosion
- Excessive shaft runout or axial/radial play from worn bearings
- Incorrect seal part, wrong size/orientation, or damaged spring
- Contaminants/abrasives in oil or ingress past dust seals
- Overfilled system, pressure from vents blocked, or incorrect fluid degrading elastomer

Post-repair verification
- Visually inspect while rotating; verify no seepage at running temperature and after 50–100 km.
- Monitor fluid level and oil appearance for metal or rapid loss.
- If leak recurs, recheck shaft finish, concentricity, and bearing play.

Done.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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