- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and long sleeves; turbochargers run extremely hot and components can cut.
- Work on a cool engine; wait until the engine and exhaust are cold before starting.
- Disconnect the battery to avoid accidental cranking or electrical shorting.
- Use jack stands whenever you lift the truck — never rely on a jack alone.
- Keep work area well ventilated and clear of loose debris that could fall into intake or oil passages.

- Basic approach overview (for a beginner)
- Diagnose symptom → remove turbo assembly → inspect → decide repair or replace → install new/overhauled components → prime oil supply → run and test.
- For most beginners, replacing the turbo or the turbo cartridge (CHRA) is safer and more reliable than full teardown/repair because rebuilding and balancing the rotating assembly requires specialist equipment.

- Tools you should already have and how to use them (detailed)
- Combination wrench set (metric sizes)
- Use to hold or turn nuts/bolts in tight spots. Fit wrench fully on fastener; pull toward the long side of the wrench to avoid slipping.
- 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive ratchet and socket set (metric)
- Use correct socket size; apply steady force. 3/8" for most engine bolts; 1/2" for larger exhaust studs. Use extensions and universal joints to reach awkward fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click-type, covering typical automotive range)
- Essential for tightening exhaust/turbo mounting bolts and oil lines to spec. Set the required torque and apply slowly until it clicks. Overtightening can strip threads or fracture studs.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Use correct tip size to avoid cam-out when removing hose clamps and smaller fasteners.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose)
- For hose clamps, cotter pins, and pulling hoses. Needle-nose for accessing tight clips.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Spray on rusty or seized bolts; allow time to soak to make removal easier and reduce risk of rounding bolts.
- Breaker bar
- Provides extra leverage for stubborn bolts; use with care to avoid sudden breakage of studs.
- Hammer and soft-faced mallet
- Gentle taps to free stuck flanges or heat shields. Avoid heavy blows to turbo housings.
- Pry bar / flat bar
- Used gently to separate stuck flanges; protect surfaces with a block to avoid marring.
- Wire brush and rags
- Clean mating surfaces and remove carbon/soot before reassembly.
- Drain pan
- Catch oil and coolant when disconnecting oil/coolant lines.
- Funnel and clean oil
- For topping up and priming oil feed after installation.
- Safety jack stands and wheel chocks
- Secure vehicle support if raised.
- Flashlight or work light
- Illumination for tight spaces.

- Extra / recommended specialist tools and why they’re needed
- Torque angle gauge (if required by service manual)
- Some bolts require angle tightening; gauge ensures correct angle.
- Turbo oil feed/return line socket set or crowfoot wrench
- Oil lines can be in tight spaces; these let you torque fittings properly.
- Vise with soft jaws
- If you must remove the CHRA from the housings, a vise holds parts steady without damaging castings.
- Dial indicator and micrometer
- For measuring shaft runout and bearing play accurately. Useful if you attempt rebuild; otherwise a shop will do this.
- Snap ring pliers, circlip pliers
- For removing internal retaining rings if disassembling cartridge.
- Clean-room-type compressed air and lint-free cloths
- To avoid contamination of turbo internals during rebuild.
- Balancing equipment
- Required to balance the rotating assembly after wheel rework; without this, rebuilt turbo will fail quickly. This is why cartridge replacement or buying a remanufactured turbo is recommended over home balancing.

- Diagnosis (what to look for)
- Symptoms pointing to turbo issue
- Excessive smoke (blue = oil burning, black = rich/unburnt fuel), loss of power, whine/screeching, loud exhaust leaks, oil in intake piping, foreign object damage.
- Quick checks
- Inspect intake and intercooler piping for oil or debris.
- Check turbo compressor wheel for play by moving shaft gently (axial and radial). Any metal-to-metal contact noise or rubbing indicates internal damage.
- Look for oil leaks at oil feed and return lines.
- Listen for unusual noises during run (whine, grinding).
- When to replace vs repair
- Replace turbo or CHRA if there is:
- Excessive shaft play (noticeable wobble or scraping).
- Broken/chipped compressor or turbine blades.
- Scored bearing surfaces or metal shavings in oil return.
- Seized or stuck variable geometry mechanism (if applicable).
- Consider replacing oil lines, gaskets, and studs whenever the turbo is removed.

- Removal procedure (high-level steps; follow service manual torque/specs)
- Prepare vehicle: park on level ground, set parking brake, disconnect battery, allow engine to fully cool.
- Remove obstructing components: engine covers, heat shields, intake and intercooler pipes between turbo and intercooler, and air filter housing as needed.
- Drain oil/collect drips: position drain pan under oil return line and remove return line to capture oil.
- Disconnect oil feed line and return line: clean connection points and cap/plug lines to avoid contamination.
- Disconnect coolant lines if turbo is water-cooled: drain small amount or plug lines to prevent coolant loss and contamination.
- Remove intake and exhaust connections: loosen clamps and remove downpipe or exhaust flange bolts. Spray penetrating oil on rusty studs and allow time to soak.
- Remove actuator/vacuum lines or wiring connectors: label or photograph routing for reassembly.
- Unbolt turbo mounting bolts and carefully lift turbo assembly out. Support turbo while removing last bolts to avoid dropping and damaging it.

- Inspection after removal
- Visual
- Compressor/turbine wheel condition: check for chips, bent or missing blades and foreign object damage.
- Housing cracks or distorted flanges.
- Oil leakage: oil in compressor housing or excessive soot indicates internal seal failure.
- Shaft play
- Radial play: gently move shaft side-to-side. Small finger movement is okay; noticeable wobble or contact with housing = replaced.
- Axial play: push/pull along shaft. Excessive axial movement indicates bearing wear.
- Internal contamination
- Metal shavings or heavy carbon deposits in housings or oil return indicate catastrophic wear.
- Actuator/wastegate
- Check operation and vacuum lines. If stuck, the actuator may be faulty and should be tested and replaced if inoperative.

- Repair decisions and recommended replacements
- Replace entire turbo assembly
- Best for beginners. Comes remanufactured or new, pre-balanced and ready. Avoids need for balancing equipment and precise bearing preload setup.
- Replace when heavy damage, blade breakage, severe bearing wear, or oil contamination exists.
- Replace CHRA (cartridge)
- If housings and actuator are good but bearings/wheels are worn. CHRA replacements are common and cheaper than full turbo. Still pre-balanced in most reman CHRAs.
- Replace oil feed and return lines, gaskets and seals
- Always replace these whenever turbo is removed to prevent leaks and ensure proper oil flow. Old lines can be clogged or cracked.
- Replace actuator or wastegate parts
- If actuator is stuck, leaking, or not holding set pressure; causes boost control issues.
- Replace mounting studs/nuts and exhaust gaskets
- Rusted studs or damaged nuts should be replaced to ensure secure installation and proper sealing.
- Replace intake hoses and intercooler seals if oil-contaminated
- Oil contamination degrades seals and hoses; clean or replace as needed.

- How to use important tools in the reassembly context
- Torque wrench
- Use for critical bolts (turbo to manifold, exhaust flange, oil line fittings). Tighten to service manual torque. Use slow steady motion to the click.
- Ratchet and sockets
- Use correct size; avoid using rounded/chipped sockets which can damage bolt heads.
- Penetrating oil, breaker bar, and heat
- Use penetrating oil first, then breaker bar. If still stuck, safely apply heat to the flange area with a torch (if comfortable and safe) to expand metal — only if you know how and have fire safety measures. Otherwise have a shop help.
- Vise and soft jaws (if fitting a CHRA)
- Clamp housings gently using soft jaws to avoid crushing castings. Align and press fits straight to avoid misalignment.
- Clean rags and wire brush
- Clean mating surfaces: remove old gasket material, carbon, and rust until smooth. Ensure no debris enters intake or oil passages.

- Installation and priming
- Fit new gaskets and seals: use new exhaust gaskets, oil seals and any crush washers on oil fittings.
- Reinstall turbo, torque bolts to spec in a cross pattern for flanges where applicable.
- Reconnect oil feed and return lines; ensure oil feed has clear path — some recommend pre-filling feed to CHRA with fresh engine oil to prevent initial dry start.
- Reconnect coolant lines, intake and exhaust pipes, actuator/vacuum lines, sensors.
- Tighten clamps on intake/intercooler pipes to avoid boost leaks.
- Prime oil system: before cranking, disable fuel or ignition and crank engine to build oil pressure and circulate oil to turbo for a few seconds (follow vehicle-specific safety and procedure). If unsure, pour a small amount of clean engine oil into the turbo oil inlet and rotate compressor by hand to distribute.
- Reconnect battery.

- Testing after installation
- Start engine and let idle; watch oil pressure and check for leaks at oil lines and exhaust flange.
- Bring to operating temperature and check for boost and any abnormal noises.
- Road test under safe conditions: check for loss of power, smoke, or warning lights.
- Recheck torque on bolts after initial heat cycling.

- Common pitfalls and why they matter
- Not priming oil feed: will cause dry start, rapid bearing failure.
- Reusing old gaskets/lines: can cause leaks leading to loss of oil/boost and turbo damage.
- Allowing debris into intake/oil passages: foreign debris will damage turbine/compressor blades and bearings.
- Attempting to rebuild and balance a turbo without equipment: improper balance causes vibration and rapid failure.

- Parts you will likely need to buy
- Turbocharger assembly or CHRA (specify Hino FG17/FG19 model/engine code when ordering)
- Oil feed banjo bolts or fittings and crush washers
- Oil return pipe gasket or new return pipe and flange gasket
- Exhaust flange gasket and studs/nuts if corroded
- Intake and intercooler hoses/clamps (if oil-soaked or damaged)
- Wastegate/actuator (if faulty)
- New engine oil and oil filter (recommended after repair)
- Coolant top-up (if coolant lines disturbed)

- Final notes and recommended actions for a beginner
- Buy a replacement turbo or a remanufactured CHRA instead of attempting a full internal rebuild at home.
- Have torque specs and tightening sequence from the Hino FG17/FG19 service manual — this prevents mistakes.
- If you find shaft play, broken blades, metal in oil, or seized VNT mechanism, replace the turbo.
- If uncertain about dismantling CHRA or balancing, use a reputable turbo reman shop — they have balancing equipment and can provide a reliable rebuild.
- After repair, monitor oil pressure, boost and sounds for the next few drives; check for leaks again.

- Safety reminder (final)
- If any bolt or stud is seriously corroded or you are unable to remove components safely, stop and get professional assistance. Turbo/exhaust hardware can be dangerous to force, and broken studs often require extraction tools and welding skills.

No yapping — follow the above steps and replace the turbo or CHRA if you find shaft play, blade damage, oil contamination, or actuator failure; always replace oil lines, gaskets and seals when the turbo is removed.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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Japanese Truck Parts - MaxiPARTS hino BUS AC140 1983-1988 AD2J [BD190] 08/1996-11/1999 AK176 1990-1992 AM100 BC144 BD186 BG100 BG300 BT51 BX340 BX341 CG277 CM277 HX9JLKE PONCHO 2016- RB145 1986-1993 RB8 MK1 434R 2006-2009 RB8 MK2 437R 2009-2013 RC320 RG197 RG1J 1996-2003 RK176 RK1JSLL [RK250] 2000-2003 RK1JSML [RK260] 2004-2007 RK8JSKA 2008-2010 RK8JSMA-UJU 2011- RM2KSKA 1998-2008 RN8JSKA 11/2007-07/2008 RN8JSMA 2011-