Purpose (one line)
- Clean the intake manifold, EGR passages and related parts on a Hino FG17/FG19 diesel to restore airflow, proper EGR function and engine performance by removing soot/carbon buildup.

Quick overview of how the system works (analogy)
- The intake manifold is like a tree trunk with branches: the turbo and charge-air cooler feed pressurized air into the “trunk” (manifold) and the manifold splits that air to each cylinder. The EGR system reconnects a controlled amount of exhaust back into that trunk to lower combustion temperatures. Over time that exhaust deposits soot and carbon, like creosote in a chimney, choking flow and fouling valves and sensors. Cleaning restores the “chimney” so air and EGR flow normally.

Safety first (must-do)
- Work on a cooled engine. Hot coolant and turbo oil are dangerous.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Wear eye protection, nitrile gloves, and a NIOSH-approved respirator for soot/dust.
- Drain and contain coolant if you open coolant passages. Dispose of waste according to local rules.
- Use non-chlorinated, manufacturer-approved cleaners. Avoid getting solvents into cylinders. Work in a ventilated area.

Parts & consumables (replace as needed)
- New intake manifold gasket(s) and EGR gaskets (always replace).
- New O-rings, pipe seals, hose clamps as required.
- Brake/clutch cleaner or non-chlorinated solvent; EGR-specific cleaner.
- Shop rags, plastic scraper, brass/nylon brushes, picks, small wire brush.
- Torque wrench, sockets, ratchet, extensions, swivel, combos, pliers.
- Vacuum or compressed air (low pressure) and blow gun with safety.
- Coolant (if drained), thread sealer/anti-seize per manual.
- Replacement bolts if torque-to-yield (check manual).
- Small container for bolts, marker tape to label hoses.

Major components you will encounter (what they are and why they matter)
- Intake manifold (plenum + runners): cast/bolted assembly distributing charge air. Contains EGR inlet ports on many diesel Hino engines. Carbon builds up on inner surfaces and in runners.
- EGR valve: meters exhaust gas into intake. Soot fouls it; sticking causes poor idle, rough running.
- EGR cooler: cools EGR before it enters intake. Often full of soot and can leak coolant internally.
- Throttle/air control (if equipped) or intake air control devices: may be present on some models to control idle/airflow — can stick from deposits.
- MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor / pressure sensors: measure boost/pressure for ECU; contamination or broken connectors cause wrong readings.
- Intake piping / charge-air cooler (intercooler): upstream of manifold; can be oily/sooty and should be inspected/cleaned.
- PCV / breather circuits: return crankcase gases into intake — contribute to deposits.
- Coolant passages and hoses that attach to the manifold: some manifolds carry coolant to EGR cooler or heater passages — must be drained and reassembled correctly.
- Gaskets, seals, bolts/studs: provide sealing and clamping. Old gaskets must be replaced; bolts often have specified torque and sequence.
- Vacuum lines, electrical connectors: label & disconnect carefully.

Symptoms that indicate cleaning is needed
- Loss of power, reduced boost response.
- Rough idle, surging, or unstable idle.
- Increased fuel consumption and smoke.
- Diagnostic trouble codes (EGR fault, MAP sensor, boost control).
- Persistent low power after turbo and fuel checks.

Preparation (before you start)
1. Obtain OE service manual for FG17/FG19 (engine code/serial-specific torque specs, bolt sizes, sequences).
2. Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
3. Disconnect negative battery cable.
4. Let engine cool fully.
5. Drain coolant if manifold or EGR cooler passage will be opened; capture in container.
6. Relieve intake pressure (remove airbox, inlet piping) and mark/remove intake ducting and intercooler pipes so you can reassemble exactly.
7. Label and photograph all connectors/hose locations — this prevents mistakes.

Step‑by‑step procedure (detailed)
Note: This is a general, workshop-level walk-through. Follow your model’s manual for torque values and any model-specific steps.

A. Access and preliminary inspection
- Remove air filter housing and intake ducting to expose turbo outlet/intercooler piping. Disconnect and remove charge-air pipes to the manifold. Inspect intercooler and pipes for oil/soot; clean if heavily fouled.
- Remove engine covers and any obstruction to access manifold (battery tray, harness brackets, etc.). Keep fasteners organized in labeled trays.

B. Disconnect sensors, lines and EGR components
- Disconnect electrical connectors: MAP sensor, temperature sensors, EGR valve actuator connector(s), any intake air control sensors. Use safe prying — don’t damage tabs.
- Remove vacuum hoses and PCV breather hoses from manifold. Cap hoses to prevent contamination.
- Remove coolant hoses to manifold/EGR cooler (if present). Have rags to catch coolant. Drain coolant first if necessary.
- Disconnect EGR cooler inlet/outlet pipes and bolted EGR valve connections. Label them.

C. Removing the manifold
- Loosen and remove intake manifold bolts in a cross pattern gradually (like removing a head — even release). Keep track of washer/bolt lengths and positions.
- Carefully lift the manifold straight up; some soot will fall — cover ports with clean rags or tape right away to prevent debris entering cylinders.
- If EGR cooler is integral or bolted, remove it now; it may be heavy and full of coolant—handle carefully and drain into container.

D. Inspection of removed parts
- Inspect manifold inner walls and runners. Expect heavy black dry/sooty deposits primarily around EGR inlets and runners.
- Check bolt threads and mating surfaces for corrosion, warpage, cracks or erosion.
- Inspect EGR valve and cooler for holes, coolant leaks, and severe corrosion.
- Inspect sensors and PCV — replace if sticking or contaminated beyond cleaning.

E. Cleaning the manifold and EGR parts (method)
- Containing debris: Do cleaning over a parts tray or parts washer. Don’t let carbon or solvent run into engine or ground.
- Manual cleaning (recommended for workshop):
- Use plastic or brass brushes and stiff nylon pads to remove loose soot. Avoid steel brushes on aluminum to prevent scratching.
- For stubborn carbon, apply an EGR/intake carbon cleaner according to product instructions. Let soak, then scrape gently with a plastic scraper or picks.
- Use a non-chlorinated degreasing solvent to remove oily residues.
- For deep carbon: consider ultrasonic parts washer or heated parts washer if available. Do not heat aluminum manifold above recommended temps.
- EGR cooler cleaning:
- Back-flush with hot water and a mild detergent to remove soot (use a pressure washer carefully on low pressure from exhaust side to inlet). Some shops use chemical flushes specific to EGR coolers. Inspect for internal coolant/exhaust leaks (cross-contamination).
- If EGR cooler is clogged or leaking internally (coolant in exhaust or white deposits), replacement is recommended.
- MAP, sensors, and valves:
- Clean sensor external surfaces with electronic cleaner; do not submerge or use aggressive solvents on sensors.
- For EGR valve, remove pintle/seat deposits with a brush and cleaner; ensure pintle moves freely. Do not damage the valve seat sealing surfaces.
- Avoid getting cleaning residue into oil passages or cylinder bores. Keep ports sealed while working.

F. Drying and final prep
- Blow cleaned passages with low-pressure compressed air to remove loose particles (wear eye/respirator protection).
- Inspect sealing surfaces and scrape old gasket material with plastic scraper; avoid gouging aluminum surfaces.
- Inspect manifold mating face for flatness; a warped manifold may need machine work or replacement.

G. Reassembly (key points)
- Fit new gaskets and replace any O-rings. Do not reuse gaskets.
- Place manifold carefully into position, aligning dowels if present.
- Hand-start bolts then torque in specified sequence and stages per OEM manual (important — progressive tightening prevents warping). If manual unavailable, tighten progressively in a spiral/cross pattern to snug, then final torque per bolt size spec.
- Reconnect EGR cooler, EGR valve, coolant lines, vacuum hoses and electrical connectors. Replace hose clamps if corroded.
- Reinstall intake piping, intercooler pipes, and airbox. Replace any brittle hoses.
- Refill coolant, bleed system per manual to remove air pockets (important to prevent overheating).
- Reconnect battery.

H. Post‑repair checks and testing
- Do a visual leak check for coolant and intake leaks.
- Start engine and allow to idle; watch for abnormal noises, rough idle, smoke. Do not rev hard until temp stable.
- Use diagnostic tool to clear codes and monitor MAP, EGR position, boost and air/fuel parameters. Confirm EGR is operational and closed at idle if commanded.
- Road test under load and check for restored power and boost response.
- Recheck torque and all connections after first run (thermal cycles can settle hardware).

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Debris into cylinders — cover ports immediately to prevent carbon or tools dropping into cylinder (can cause valve damage).
- Damaged sensors/connectors — label and be gentle when unplugging. Replacing sensors if they’re old is often cheaper than chasing intermittent faults.
- Warped or cracked manifold — don’t overtighten bolts; if manifold is warped replace it.
- EGR cooler internal leak — if coolant is found in exhaust or manifold, EGR cooler likely failed; replacement required.
- Cross-threaded or broken bolts/studs — use correct sockets and hand-start bolts, replace if damaged.
- Reused or wrong gasket — always use new correct gaskets; wrong thickness or type causes leaks.
- Improper torque sequence — can warp manifold or leak coolant/air. Use OEM torque and sequence.
- Chemical damage — harsh solvents can damage sensors, plastic parts, and seals. Use recommended cleaners.
- Coolant not bled — causes air lock, overheating, and poor heater performance. Follow bleed procedures.

Diagnostics if problems persist after cleaning
- Persistent codes: read fault codes and check live values for MAP vs. actual pressure, EGR position vs commanded, boost leak tests.
- Low boost or loss of power: pressure check intercooler and piping, inspect turbo for oil leakage or shaft play.
- Rough idle or black smoke: check fueling system, turbo vane operation (if VGT), and injectors.
- Coolant loss after reassembly: pressure-test cooling system and inspect EGR cooler and hose connections.

Tips and workshop best practices
- Photograph each step for reassembly reference.
- Keep small parts organized and labeled.
- Replace any soft hoses or clamps showing age — they often fail later.
- If uncertain about torque-to-yield bolts or studs, replace them.
- Consider professional ultrasonic cleaning for heavily coked manifolds/EGR coolers.
- Document part numbers and torque specs in your job sheet for future maintenance.

Typical turnaround / time estimate
- For a competent beginner with proper tools: expect 4–8 hours (including cooldown, draining and reassembly). More if EGR cooler replacement or intercooler removal is required.
- A professional shop with lift and parts washer: 2–4 hours.

Final note
- Follow your factory workshop manual for engine-specific bolt sizes, torque values and sequences, and any safety precautions unique to your FG17/FG19 build. The steps above cover the full, safe procedure and common failure modes so you can do the job correctly and avoid the usual mistakes.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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