Preparation — purpose and safety
1. Symptoms & diagnosis (theory)
- Confirm fault: slipping under load (engine revs rise without vehicle speed), judder/engagement shudder, clutch drag (hard to select gears), noise, or pedal free-play issues. These symptoms point to worn friction material, contaminated surfaces, distorted pressure plate, failed release bearing, or linkage/hydraulic faults.
- Theory: clutch transmits torque between engine flywheel and transmission via friction. Problems arise when friction coefficient/area is reduced, clamping force is insufficient or contact surfaces are uneven/contaminated, or release mechanism fails.

2. Prepare vehicle and workspace
- Secure level workshop, chock wheels, set parking brake, disconnect battery negative.
- Raise and support vehicle on certified stands or hoist. Use a transmission jack rated for the gearbox weight.
- Theory: safe, stable support prevents movement and injury and allows proper alignment when reinstalling gearbox.

Removal — gain access and separate driveline
3. Drain fluids and remove peripheral components
- Drain gearbox/transfer case fluids if needed. Remove driveshaft/prop shafts, starter motor, engine undercovers, intake/exhaust obstructing removal, and any wiring harnesses between engine and gearbox. Label connectors/lines and cap hydraulic lines.
- Theory: Removing obstructions gives access to gearbox bellhousing; draining prevents spillage and allows safe removal.

4. Support and detach transmission
- Support gearbox with jack. Remove gearbox-to-chassis mounts and engine/transmission alignment fasteners. Unbolt gearbox from bellhousing. Carefully withdraw gearbox straight back from engine using jack to control weight; avoid twisting drivetrain.
- Theory: The gearbox must separate from the clutch assembly so you can expose the pressure plate and clutch disc. Support prevents damage to synchronizers and gearbox input shaft.

Clutch assembly removal and inspection
5. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc
- Loosen bolts in a star pattern to relieve pressure evenly, remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Inspect wear pattern, rivet-to-face clearance, and contamination.
- Theory: Even loosening prevents warping of pressure plate. The clutch disc and pressure plate reveal the root cause: worn friction, glazing, oil contamination, broken springs, or heat damage.

6. Inspect flywheel and input shaft
- Inspect flywheel face for scoring, heat spots, cracks, and runout. Measure thickness and runout with dial indicator. Inspect pilot bearing/bushing and gearbox input shaft splines for wear or damage.
- Theory: A damaged or glazed flywheel surface will prevent proper friction and cause slip/judder. Runout causes engagement chattering. Damaged splines cause sticking or uneven loading.

7. Inspect release mechanism and hydraulics
- Check release bearing (throw-out bearing), clutch fork, pivot points, slave/master cylinder (if hydraulic), pushrod and pedal free play. Replace any worn parts.
- Theory: A seized/rough release bearing or mis-adjusted linkage prevents full release, causing hard gear selection; worn pivot causes misalignment and uneven pressure.

Decide repair action
8. Resurface vs replace flywheel; replace components
- If flywheel minor glazing/scoring and within thickness/runout limits — resurface (machine) on a bench lathe, then recheck runout. If heat-cracked, over-min thickness or excessive runout — replace. Always replace the clutch disc and usually the pressure plate and release bearing as quality set.
- Theory: Resurfacing restores a flat, uniform friction surface. Replacement ensures clamping force and friction coefficient meet design; mixing old/new parts often shortens life.

Installation — correct assembly and alignment
9. Clean and prepare mating surfaces
- Degrease flywheel and pressure plate faces; clean pilot bore; lightly lubricate splines with proper high-temp grease on splines only (avoid contaminating friction surfaces). Replace pilot bearing/bushing if worn.
- Theory: A clean, dry friction surface and free sliding on splines ensure even torque transfer and proper seating; excess grease on friction surfaces causes immediate slippage.

10. Fit clutch disc and pressure plate using alignment tool
- Use alignment tool to center disc on the pilot bore, then bolt pressure plate hand-tight in a star pattern to seat evenly. Torque bolts in stages to manufacturer torque spec in star pattern.
- Theory: Centering ensures input shaft will enter smoothly without tilting; even torque prevents distortion of the pressure plate and ensures uniform clamping force across the disc.

11. Reinstall gearbox and connect components
- Reinstall gearbox carefully onto dowels; ensure input shaft slides into clutch disc splines and pilot bearing without forcing. Refit starter, prop-shaft, mounts, and any removed lines or wiring. Refill fluids and reconnect battery.
- Theory: Proper mating prevents misalignment and bearing damage; torqueing mounts to spec maintains alignment and reduces vibration.

Adjustment, bleeding, and verification
12. Adjust free play or hydraulic system
- If mechanical linkage: set correct pedal free play per manual. If hydraulic: bleed master/slave to remove air using proper sequence; check for leaks and correct stroke.
- Theory: Proper free play guarantees full engagement and full release at correct pedal travel. Air in hydraulic lines reduces travel and causes incomplete release.

13. Torque recheck and runout checks
- After a short test run then cool-down, recheck clutch cover bolts and mount torques. Verify no leaks. Check pilot bearing endfloat if accessible.
- Theory: Thermal cycling can change bolt stretch; re-torquing ensures continued clamp. Early recheck catches issues before failure.

14. Break-in (bedding) procedure and road test
- Perform staged break-in: smooth takeoffs under light load for first 200–500 km with gradual load increases; avoid heavy towing and slipping for initial period.
- Theory: New friction materials need controlled heat cycles to mate surfaces; proper bedding stabilizes friction coefficient and lifespan.

How the repair fixes common faults (concise)
- Slipping: Worn friction lining or glazed flywheel reduces friction coefficient. Replacing disc and resurfacing/replacing flywheel restores friction area and clamping force so torque transmits without slip.
- Judder/chatter: Uneven or warped flywheel or contaminated surfaces produce stick–slip. Resurfacing/removing contamination and replacing disc removes unevenness; centering/alignment eliminates misalignment-induced vibration.
- Hard gear selection/drag: Faulty release bearing, misadjusted linkage, or hydraulic issues prevent full release. Replacing bearing and correcting adjustment/bleeding restores full disengagement clearance so gears synchronise.
- Noise or vibration: Damaged springs or broken components in the disc or pressure plate transmit noise; replacement removes the source and restores damping.
- Short clutch life after service: Common causes are contaminated grease, misalignment, incorrect torquing, or using only some components. Fix by cleaning, correct spline lubrication, correct torques, full component replacement when needed, and correct alignment.

Special notes and cautions
- Always use Hino workshop manual for model-specific procedures, bolt torques, part numbers, and safety lifts for FG17/FG19.
- Replace clutch as an assembly kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bushing when applicable) where possible.
- Never sand or grind friction surfaces with com-pound that leaves residues; avoid any grease on friction faces.
- Use correct tools: transmission jack, clutch alignment tool, torque wrench, dial indicator, pilot bearing puller, and a clean environment for assembly.

End.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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