Tools & consumables
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet and extensions
- Combination wrenches (8–17 mm)
- Long-nose pliers, slip-joint pliers
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers
- Needle files / small pick (for clips and grommets)
- Utility knife / cable cutter if trimming sheath
- Penetrating oil (WD‑40) and light grease (white lithium)
- Cable lubricator (or disposable syringe with light oil)
- Zip ties and metal clamps
- Replacement retaining pins / circlips, grommet(s)
- New OEM throttle cable for Hino FG17/FG19 (match year/engine), possible pedal bushings/return spring
- Wheel chocks, gloves, eye protection

Safety precautions (must-follow)
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels. Key off and remove key from ignition.
2. Work with engine cold. If you must run engine for testing, ensure adequate ventilation and keep clear of moving parts.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be working near electrical components or risk accidental engine start.
4. Wear gloves/eye protection. Keep loose clothing/jewellery away from linkages.
5. Support cab panels or dash trim properly when removing; some parts are fragile.

Overview of job
- Remove/replace or adjust the accelerator (throttle) cable that connects the pedal to the throttle lever (fuel injection pump or throttle body) on Hino FG17/FG19. Steps cover removal, installation, routing, lubrication and final adjustment.

Step-by-step procedure

1. Preparation
- Confirm correct replacement cable for your FG17/FG19 (year and engine). Verify lengths and end fittings match.
- Chock wheels, engage parking brake, remove key, disconnect negative battery if desired.
- Open hood and locate throttle cable at engine side (connected to throttle lever on injection pump or throttle body). Note routing and attachment points — take photos.

2. Access pedal end (cab)
- Remove lower dash panel or kick panel to access accelerator pedal assembly.
- Locate cable end at pedal — typically secured with a clevis pin/retaining clip or a ball/socket end.
- Remove retaining clip or cotter pin with pliers and slide the clevis/ball end off the pedal. Support pedal so it does not drop.

3. Free cable from firewall & clamps
- Under dash, pull back carpet/grommet to expose cable through firewall. Remove cable grommet if needed.
- Inside engine bay, locate where cable passes through firewall and all clamps along the frame/engine. Remove or loosen clamps/retainers (use penetrating oil if seized).
- Note all routing ties and bracket locations; you must replicate exact path to avoid chafing or binding.

4. Detach cable at throttle lever (engine end)
- At throttle lever, remove retaining clip/washer/pin holding cable nipple or clevis. Some setups use a threaded stud with locknut — loosen jam nut.
- If cable end uses a socket or ball, pry out gently with screwdriver or pliers while supporting linkage. Do not bend lever.

5. Remove old cable
- Pull cable out through firewall after freeing all clamps. Inspect grommet and sheath for damage. Replace grommet if hardened or cracked.

6. Inspect linkage components & replace wear items
- Check throttle lever, pivot bushings, pedal bushings, return spring. Replace any worn bushings or broken springs before fitting new cable.
- Clean and lightly grease pivot points with white lithium grease.

7. Fit new cable — routing
- Route new cable following exactly the original path. Ensure smooth curves — avoid sharp bends or kinks. Use same clamps/brackets.
- Feed cable through firewall grommet first (replace grommet if needed), then into cab to pedal location.
- At engine end, fit the cable into the throttle lever: slide nipple/clevis onto lever and secure with new pin/clip or tighten jam nut as applicable.
- At pedal end, seat the cable end into pedal clevis/ball socket and secure with pin/clip. Ensure pedal moves freely.

8. Preliminary adjustment
- Set cable so there is a small amount of free play at the pedal — typically 2–5 mm (0.08–0.20 in) pedal travel before throttle linkage moves; check OEM spec if available.
- If cable has an adjustable threaded end with lock nut, back off to create free play then tighten lock nut to hold.

9. Secure and protect
- Reinstall all clamps and brackets. Use new zip ties or metal clamps where necessary.
- Ensure grommet seals firewall, cable sheath not chafing metal edges. Use rubber grommet or wrap with protective tape if required.
- Reinstall dash panels.

10. Function test (engine off)
- With ignition off, have an assistant depress pedal while you observe throttle lever movement through full travel. Verify smooth, full range without binding, and full return by pedal spring.
- Check for any interference with steering or brake lines.

11. Engine test and final adjustment
- Start engine (ventilated area). Slowly operate throttle through full travel. Check idle, throttle response, and that throttle returns to idle promptly when released.
- If needed adjust free play: loosen lock nut, turn adjuster to achieve correct free play, tighten lock nut.
- Re-check with repeated cycles to ensure no sticking.

12. Final inspection
- Inspect for rubbing, heat sources, or contact with suspension/engine movement. Re-torque any brackets. Confirm clips/pins fully seated and safety clips installed.

How tools are used (practical notes)
- Pliers: remove/install retaining clips and cotter pins; use long-nose for confined spaces.
- Sockets/wrenches: remove bracket bolts and jam nuts; use correct metric sizes to avoid rounding.
- Penetrating oil: free seized clamps/bolts; apply and let soak a few minutes.
- Cable cutter/utility knife: trim excess sheath only if necessary, then neatly seal end.
- Cable lubricator/syringe: if cable has inner wire lubrication point, inject light oil; otherwise cables are usually sealed—do not over-lubricate near engine heat.
- Screwdrivers/picks: help remove grommet and pry small clips without damaging parts.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Correct OEM throttle cable for Hino FG17/FG19 (match serial/year/engine). Non‑OEM may not match routing or end fittings.
- Firewall grommet(s), cable clamps or retaining clips, clevis pin/cotter pins.
- Pedal bushings and throttle lever bushings if worn.
- Throttle return spring if weak or broken.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong cable length or end fittings: verify part number and compare old cable before installation.
- Improper routing: causes binding — always replicate original path and avoid sharp bends or hot contact with exhaust.
- Not replacing worn brackets/bushings: leads to premature wear and play; inspect and replace as needed.
- Over-tightening adjuster/locking nut: can pre-load cable causing binding; set correct free play first then snug lock nut.
- Forgetting grommet or reusing a hardened grommet: leads to chafing and cable failure—replace rubber grommet if any doubt.
- Not testing return at idle: missed sticking can cause runaway throttle — always verify full return under engine power.
- Using grease near heat sources: heavy grease can attract dirt; use light, appropriate lubricants only on pivot points.

Final checks
- Verify throttle returns instantly and smoothly from full throttle to idle with engine running.
- Road test in safe area: low speed checks, then full-throttle verification; monitor throttle behavior and engine rpm response.
- Recheck clamps and adjuster lock after a short test drive.

End.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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