Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Hino Truck FG17 and FG19 Workshop Manual download

Quick note: Hino FG17/FG19 trucks use diesel engines — they do not have spark plugs; they use glow plugs for cold starting and combustion aid. Below is a concise, ordered workshop-style procedure for replacing glow plugs on these Hino models, with the relevant theory and why the repair fixes faults.

Required parts & tools
- Correct glow plugs (OEM or correct spec/type for the engine).
- Torque wrench and appropriate deep socket for glow plugs.
- Ratchet, extensions, penetrating oil, small brush, contact cleaner.
- Multimeter (ohms), 12 V bench supply or battery jumper leads for bench testing (careful).
- Anti-seize only if manufacturer permits; dielectric grease for electrical connectors.
- Battery disconnect tool, protective gloves, eye protection.

Theory (short)
- Glow plugs are resistive heaters that heat the combustion chamber/air in each cylinder to support cold start and initial combustion in diesel engines.
- A working glow plug presents low resistance and draws current to heat quickly; a failed/open plug won’t heat, causing poor cold starting, white/grey smoke, rough idle until engine warms. Carboned or shorted plugs can affect combustion stability.
- Replacing a failed glow plug restores uniform pre-ignition chamber temperatures and proper ignition of the injected fuel during cold/cranking conditions.

Ordered replacement procedure (workshop sequence)
1. Safety first: park on level ground, engine off and cool, key out. Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid shorts when working the electrical connectors.
2. Access: remove engine covers/air intake components as needed to expose the glow plug area and harness. Note routing of wiring/harness for reassembly.
3. Inspect harness/connectors: free connectors with spray contact cleaner. If connectors/cables are corroded/damaged, plan to replace or repair them — a bad lead mimics a bad plug.
4. Label wires if needed so each plug/harness returns to the correct cylinder (important on engines with individual connectors).
5. Test plugs in-situ (optional): with multimeter measure resistance between glow plug terminal and body — a low but finite resistance indicates continuity; open circuit indicates failed plug. Record results. (See manual for expected ranges; open = replace.)
6. Apply penetrating oil around each plug base if seized; let soak to avoid thread damage.
7. Remove electrical connector from first glow plug.
8. Use deep socket and extension to loosen and remove glow plug. Remove carefully to avoid breaking the plug in the head. If a plug is tight/bind, use steady penetrating action and consider specialty extractor tools rather than brute force.
9. Inspect removed plug: look for carbon, oil, melted tip, broken insulator, or discoloration. These tell you if the fault is plug-related or symptomatic of other engine issues (e.g., oil-fouled = valve stem seals, melted tip = overheating/incorrect heat range).
10. Prepare new plug: check thread condition and gasket/seal if fitted; do not add anti-seize unless manufacturer specifies (many modern plugs are coated). Set gap not applicable (glow plugs have no spark gap) — just confirm physical match.
11. Fit new plug: hand-start threads carefully to avoid cross-threading. Tighten to the engine-manual torque spec. If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten finger-tight then give a small controlled additional turn as a last resort — avoid over-torquing (risk of head/thread damage).
12. Reconnect the electrical connector; use dielectric grease on the boot connector to exclude moisture if appropriate. Repeat steps 7–12 for each plug.
13. Reconnect harness and battery negative. Clear any stored fault codes with scan tool if present, then perform a crank/run test.
14. Functional test: cold-start the engine and observe start behavior and smoke/idle. A good glow plug restores quick starts and reduces white smoke during warm-up.
15. Re-check for codes/diagnostics and tidy up.

What to inspect if replacement does not fix the symptom
- Persistent white smoke after replacement: check injectors, injector timing, compression, or cylinder oil contamination.
- Carboned/oily glow plugs point to oil control or injector leaks — these are deeper faults.
- Intermittent heating: inspect wiring harness, relay, and glow plug control module/ECU outputs.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Fault: non‑heating, open, shorted, or carbon‑fouled glow plug → insufficient combustion-chamber heating during cold start → hard starts, white smoke, rough idle on cold start.
- Action: replacing an electrically faulty or physically degraded glow plug restores the required pre-combustion heat in that cylinder so the injected diesel vaporizes and ignites promptly during cranking. This equalizes combustion across cylinders during warm-up, eliminating misfires/white smoke that were caused by the cold, underheated cylinder(s).
- Also: replacing plugs plus restoring good electrical connections ensures correct current draw and timing from the glow control system, which prevents uneven heating and intermittent faults.

Quick inspection guide to interpret removed plug condition
- Light tan/soot: normal combustion.
- Heavy black dry soot: rich combustion or weak compression.
- Oily deposits: oil entering combustion chamber (valve seals, guides).
- White/ash deposits: burnt oil or fuel additives, may indicate overheating or incorrect fuel additives.
- Melted tip/ceramic damage: plug ran too hot or wrong heat-range/overvoltage.

End—follow the OEM manual for torque values and service limits.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions