Tools & consumables
- Correct brake fluid (check Hino FG17/FG19 plate/service manual — typically DOT 3 or DOT 4). Do NOT use DOT 5 silicone.
- Brake fluid pressure bleeder (recommended) or hand vacuum bleeder + clear plastic hose and catch bottle, or a one‑man pedal pump kit.
- Wrenches for bleed nipples (usually 8–11 mm). Box or flare nut wrenches preferred.
- Jack and axle stands or heavy-duty transmission hoist (truck rated). Wheel chocks.
- Torque wrench (for wheel nuts and any disconnected lines).
- Clean funnel, shop rags, small wire brush, brake cleaner.
- Safety gear: nitrile gloves, safety glasses, protective cover for painted surfaces.
- Clear plastic tubing (fits over bleed nipple), container for old fluid.
- Hino diagnostic scanner capable of cycling ABS pump/valves (if vehicle has ABS). If unavailable, follow ABS notes below.
- Replacement parts to have on hand: bleed nipples (if corroded), master cylinder reservoir cap O‑ring/filter if degraded, new rubber brake hoses if cracked, and new master cylinder if leaking or contaminated.

Safety & preparation
- Verify system type: confirm the vehicle actually uses hydraulic brake fluid (consult the shop manual). If it’s an air or full-air system, do not attempt a fluid flush.
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake. Blocked wheels where appropriate.
- Never let paint contact brake fluid — it will strip paint. Protect painted surfaces.
- Do not mix DOT fluid types. Avoid introducing dirt into reservoir.
- Depressurize pressure bleeder before removing it. Avoid overpressurizing — set to 10–20 psi (0.7–1.4 bar) for most systems.
- If ABS is fitted, bleeding without cycling ABS valves can trap air in the ABS modulator. Use a diagnostic tool to exercise the ABS pump/valves during bleeding, or follow manufacturer ABS bleed procedure.

Step‑by‑step brake fluid flush
1. Position vehicle and remove wheels (optional but gives better access). Chock and support on rated stands.
2. Clean master cylinder reservoir cap area thoroughly with brake cleaner and a rag to prevent contamination.
3. Remove reservoir cap and top up with specified fresh fluid. Inspect fluid color — dark or contaminated fluid indicates a full flush is required. Check reservoir filter/screen and replace if deteriorated.
4. If you’re replacing the master cylinder or it has been bench‑repaired: bench‑bleed before installation (use a bench‑bleeding kit and clear tubing returning to the reservoir until bubble‑free).
5. Attach the pressure bleeder to the reservoir (or keep the reservoir topped and use a vacuum/hand bleeder at each wheel). If using a pressure bleeder, set pressure to 10–20 psi (0.7–1.4 bar). Do not exceed manufacturer recommended pressure.
6. Identify the bleed sequence: use manufacturer sequence if available. If not, bleed starting from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest (common order: furthest rear → next rear → front passenger → front driver). For many left‑hand vehicles that is right rear → left rear → right front → left front — but confirm master cylinder location and follow “furthest first.”
7. Place clear tubing on the bleed nipple and route into a catch bottle partially filled with some fresh fluid to prevent air intake.
8. Open the bleed nipple ~1/4 turn. If using a pressure bleeder, fluid will begin to flow; allow it to run until clear, bubble‑free fluid appears. Keep the reservoir topped at all times.
- If using a vacuum pump: pull until flow is steady and clear.
- If using pedal‑pump one‑man method: have an assistant press the pedal 3–4 times and hold; open nipple to let fluid/air out; close nipple before pedal released. Repeat until clear fluid. Never let the master reservoir run dry.
9. Once the wheel is clear, tighten the bleed screw snugly (follow manufacturer torque if known; typically small bleed screws are lightly tightened — avoid overtightening). Wipe area clean.
10. Repeat steps 7–9 for each wheel in the correct sequence until every circuit is flowing clean fluid.
11. If ABS is present: after the four wheels are bled, connect the Hino diagnostic tool/scanner and follow the ABS bleeding routine — this will command the ABS pump and valves to cycle and purge trapped air. While the ABS pump/valves are cycling, keep each wheel bleed nipple open one at a time (or follow the workshop manual valve sequence) until no air is present from each valve port. Repeat until clear fluid.
- If no scanner is available, perform multiple full system bleeds and a careful road test with short controlled stops to activate ABS (preferable to use an authorised facility or dealer tool).
12. After bleeding and ABS cycling, re‑check reservoir level and top to the “MAX” mark. Secure the reservoir cap.
13. Press the brake pedal with the engine running (if vehicle has vacuum booster) to check pedal travel and firmness. Pump the pedal to confirm consistent pressure. If pedal is spongy, repeat bleeding — do not drive until pedal is firm.
14. Inspect all connections, hoses, calipers and wheel cylinders for leaks. Tighten fittings if needed. Replace any leaking components.
15. Refit wheels, torque wheel nuts to manufacturer spec. Lower vehicle.
16. Dispose of used brake fluid according to local hazardous waste regulations. Clean any spillage from paint immediately with water/appropriate cleaner.

Tool usage details & best practice
- Pressure bleeder: connects to reservoir cap and pressurizes the system so each bleeder nipple can be opened and fluid will flow out continuously. Set low pressure (10–20 psi). Keeps one person operation easy and prevents master cylinder starvation.
- Vacuum bleeder: attaches to each bleed nipple, draws fluid out. Useful for quick single‑wheel bleeds but requires careful reservoir level checks.
- One‑man pedal pump kit: clamps over pedal and uses hand pump to maintain pressure. Works but is slower and still requires attention to reservoir level.
- Clear tubing on nipple: allows visual confirmation of air bubbles; immerse the tubing end in a little fluid in the catch bottle to prevent drawing air back in.
- Hino diagnostic scanner: used to actuate ABS pump and solenoids. Essential for complete ABS purge. Follow scanner prompts or workshop manual.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Letting the reservoir run dry — draws air into the master cylinder. Keep topped at all times.
- Mixing brake fluid types (DOT 3/4 vs DOT 5). Use only the type specified by Hino.
- Not cycling ABS valves — trapped air can remain in ABS module causing spongy pedal even after wheel bleeding.
- Overpressurizing the system with a pressure bleeder — can force seals to leak or damage components. Stay within 10–20 psi unless manual says otherwise.
- Using corroded bleed nipples — they can round off; replace before starting if badly corroded.
- Contaminating painted surfaces — wipe any fluid immediately and protect surfaces beforehand.
- Not checking/bench‑bleeding a new or rebuilt master cylinder — it must be bench‑bled to remove internal air before installation.
- Not disposing of old fluid correctly or leaving reservoir cap off for long periods (moisture absorption).

Replacement parts commonly required
- Brake fluid (full bottle per system; older systems may need multiple liters).
- Bleed nipples (if corroded).
- Reservoir cap O‑ring/strainer (if degraded).
- Rubber brake hoses or lines (if cracked, bulging, or internally collapsed).
- Master cylinder (if leaking or contaminated with water).
- Caliper seals/wheel cylinders if leaking.

Final checks
- Firm, consistent pedal with engine running and vacuum booster active.
- No leaks at any connectors or wheel cylinders/calipers.
- Correct brake fluid level and a securely latched reservoir cap.
- ABS light behavior: if ABS light stayed on during bleeding, scan and clear codes; re‑scan to confirm no stored faults.
- Short controlled road test in a safe area to confirm braking performance.

Follow the Hino FG17/FG19 workshop manual for vehicle‑specific bleed sequences, torque specs, and ABS bleed procedures. If you do not have the diagnostic tool for ABS, take the truck to a Hino dealer or equipped shop to finish the ABS purge.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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