Below is a clear, practical beginner‑level workshop guide for diagnosing, removing, inspecting, repairing/replacing, and reinstalling the air intake tube (the duct between the air cleaner and the turbo/compressor inlet) on a Hino FG17 / FG19 class truck. It includes a detailed description of every component you’ll touch, the theory behind the repair, common failures, and step‑by‑step procedures and checks. Follow safety cautions — engines, turbos and clamps can hurt you.

Safety first
- Work on a cooled engine whenever possible. If hot, allow to cool or use protective gloves and eye protection.
- Disconnect battery negative if you will be unplugging sensors or doing extended electrical work.
- Support the vehicle and components; don’t rely on jacks only.
- Keep foreign objects out of the turbo/compressor inlet — cover openings immediately when disconnected.
- Use correct tools; don’t use excessive force that can break brittle plastic or crush hoses.

What the intake system does (simple theory)
- The intake system brings clean ambient air to the engine’s compressor/turbo. In turbocharged diesels (like Hino FG series) the air flows: air cleaner (filter) → intake tube/duct → turbo compressor inlet → compressor → intercooler → engine intake manifold.
- The engine’s fuel delivery is matched to the mass of air; leaks or restriction change the air mass, causing poor combustion, reduced power, black smoke, higher fuel consumption, and sensor faults.
Analogy: the intake tube is like a straw to your lungs — a hole or big kink means you can’t draw as well; a blocked straw makes sucking much harder.

Components you will see and what each does
- Air cleaner housing (air box): contains primary and secondary filter elements, seals off the intake from dirt. Holds the intake tube.
- Air filter element(s): paper/oiled media that removes dust. Replace on schedule.
- Pre-cleaner (if fitted): centrifugal or cyclonic device that ejects large dust.
- Intake tube / duct (the part you’re repairing): rubber/silicone or molded plastic elbow/straight tube that links air box to turbo compressor inlet. May contain a resonator or flexible section.
- Turbocharger inlet flange or hose connection: where the tube connects to the turbo compressor. Usually a flange or hose stub with clamp.
- Hose clamps (worm-drive, T-bolt, V-band): secure tube ends. T‑bolt or V‑band clamps are common at turbo side for high clamping force.
- Resonator (if present): smooths intake noise and may be part of the tube.
- Sensor ports (if fitted): MAF or intake air temp (IAT) sensor or MAP connections — may be on airbox or tube. Diesel systems often use intake air temp sensor before turbo or after. Treat connectors carefully.
- Vacuum/bleeder hoses and breather lines: may attach to the tube for PCV or accessory vacuum. Clamp and routing points matter.
- Mounting brackets and supports: keeps the tube from vibrating or rubbing.

Why the repair is needed (what fails and why)
- Tears, cracks, or split seals in the tube allow unmetered air to enter (or allow leaks), causing poor driveability, limp mode, black smoke, and turbo inefficiency.
- Hardened or collapsed silicone or rubber from heat/age restricts airflow.
- Loose or broken clamps cause leaks or the tube to separate under boost.
- Debris or oil accumulation inside can reduce flow and cause sensor errors.
- Improper installation can let debris into the turbo, damaging compressor blades — expensive.

Tools & materials you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: ratchet and metric sockets (8–19 mm commonly), wrenches, screwdrivers.
- Pliers for clamp springs if present.
- Torque wrench (for clamp bolts or flange bolts if specified).
- New intake tube (OEM or quality silicone tube), new clamps (T-bolt or OEM style recommended), new gaskets/O‑rings if flangeed.
- Clean rags, rubber gloves, safety glasses.
- Spray light parts cleaner, but avoid strong solvents on silicone.
- Masking tape/plug to block turbo inlet while tube removed.
- Optional: smoke tester or boost gauge for testing leaks.

General notes on clamp torque and tightening
- For worm‑drive clamps: tighten until snug then 1/4–1/2 turn; avoid crushing the hose.
- For T‑bolt clamps: tighten to the torque specified by the clamp maker or until the clamp sits evenly and firmly. If you don’t have spec, tighten incrementally and check for crush or deformation.
- For turbo flange bolts: consult service manual for torque. If manual unavailable, tighten in a cross pattern to a moderate, even feel; do not overtighten. When in doubt, get the manual for exact Nm values.

Step‑by‑step removal and inspection (beginner friendly)
1. Prepare and ensure safety: cool engine, parking brake on, battery negative disconnected if you will unplug sensors. Open hood and locate the airbox and intake tube from airbox to turbo.
2. Cover turbo inlet: place a rag or tape over compressor inlet to prevent debris ingress. Never leave it open.
3. Loosen clamps at both ends of the intake tube: airbox side and turbo side (usually one or two clamps). Use appropriate tool: 8–10 mm socket or screwdriver for worm clamps; ratchet for T‑bolt. If clamp is rusted, apply penetrating oil and let soak.
4. Disconnect sensors or vacuum lines attached to the tube: mark them or note routing. Gently depress locking tabs on electrical connectors. Remove small breather hoses with pliers if they clamp on.
5. Remove mounting bracket bolts or rubber isolator if the tube is supported.
6. Remove the intake tube: twist and pull straight off the airbox and turbo. If stuck, gentle twisting while pulling helps. Avoid jerking.
7. Inspect tube externally: look for cuts, cracks, oil saturation, hardening or soft spots, crush marks, or collapsed inner supports (if corrugated).
8. Inspect tube internally: use a flashlight. Look for oil pooling, debris or bird nests. Scraping or cleaning is possible if the tube is otherwise undamaged.
9. Inspect mating faces: airbox outlet and turbo inlet for damage, missing gasket material, or dirt. Clean both sides thoroughly. If flange gaskets are used, replace them. Inspect clamp grooves for damage.

Decision: repair or replace
- Replace the tube if you find any cuts, stiffening, collapsed sections, major oil saturation, or if it’s brittle. Small superficial cracks may be patched temporarily with silicone or duct tape in a pinch, but replace properly as soon as possible.
- Replace clamps if rusted or deformed — clamps are cheap and critical.

Installation (step‑by‑step)
1. Prepare new tube and clamps: slide clamps over tube ends before fitting tube in place. Ensure tubing orientation and any resonance chambers face the correct way. Lubricate tube ends lightly with a thin film of clean engine oil or soapy water to ease fit (don’t use solvents).
2. Fit tube onto airbox outlet first, push fully so tube seats on the lip. Ensure the tube is fully seated and not cocked.
3. Fit the turbo inlet end, ensuring proper alignment without twisting or tension. If there’s a flange, fit gasket and seat evenly. Hand‑tighten any flange bolts in a star/cross pattern to center it.
4. Tighten clamps evenly: snug up airbox clamp first, then turbo side. For T‑bolts, gradually tighten in sequence so clamp compresses evenly. Do not overtighten — clamp until the tube is secure and won’t shift under hand force.
5. Reconnect any sensors, vacuum lines, and secure mounting brackets. Ensure wires aren’t strained and hoses are routed away from hot surfaces.
6. Remove turbo inlet cover and ensure no tools/cloths remain. Reconnect battery if previously disconnected.

Testing and validation
1. Start engine and let idle. Listen for hissing or whistling leaks around clamps — if you hear them, shut down and tighten or re-seat.
2. Test under load: take the truck through a normal acceleration run (safely) and watch for poor response, turbo lag or black smoke. If symptoms remain, further diagnostics required.
3. Use a smoke tester or spray a light soapy water solution around clamps running at idle while somebody slightly revs engine — watch for bubbles indicating leaks. (Do this safely and in a ventilated area.)
4. Scan ECU for fault codes if check engine light was present. Clear codes if appropriate and see if they return.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Forgetting to block turbo inlet during work: debris enters turbo and damages blades — avoid by covering inlet.
- Over‑tightening clamps: can cut or deform tube, causing failure; tighten evenly and moderately.
- Under‑tightening: tube can blow off under boost → sudden loss of power, possible engine damage. Use good clamps and proper torque.
- Not replacing degraded clamps or gaskets: leads to recurrent leaks. Replace hardware when in doubt.
- Damaging sensors/connectors: be gentle with plastic tabs. Broken connectors can cause sensor errors.
- Incorrect routing causing chafing or contact with hot exhaust — leads to premature failure. Re-route away from hot parts and secure with clips.
- Using wrong replacement tube: incorrect diameter or length causes fit issues and leaks. Use OEM or quality aftermarket designed for Hino FG17/FG19.

Troubleshooting after replacement
- Persistent poor power or black smoke: check for other intake leaks, intercooler piping leaks (post‑turbo), EGR faults, fuel system issues or turbo faults.
- Whistling/leak sounds persist: perform a smoke test to precisely locate leaks.
- Check engine light returns: read codes and inspect associated sensors (IAT, MAP, boost sensor). Recheck electrical connections removed earlier.
- Oil in intake: may indicate turbo seal wear or crankcase ventilation issues; inspect PCV and turbo for leaks.

Maintenance tips to extend life
- Check intake tube condition during every air filter change.
- Replace clamps and couplers on a schedule if the vehicle is in harsh service (salt, heat, dirt).
- Use an intake pre‑cleaner if operating in very dusty conditions.
- Keep airbox sealed and filter changed to reduce stress and oil build‑up in tube.

Short checklist to finish
- New tube installed, clamps tight, sensors reconnected.
- Turbo inlet clear. No tools left in engine bay.
- No audible intake leaks at idle and during moderate load.
- Drive test completed; no smoke or lack of power.
- Scan for and clear codes if needed.

Final advice
- If you’re unsure about the turbo flange bolts or exact torque values, consult the Hino service manual for FG17/FG19 or get a workshop manual — critical fastening specs can differ between engines.
- When in doubt replace the tube and clamps — they’re inexpensive compared to turbo or engine repairs.

End of guide.
rteeqp73

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

From the Archives: Hino FG Series Old footage of the Hino FG Series truck.

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