Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Hino N04C Engine Workshop Manual download

- Safety first (read this before doing anything)
- Work on a flat, level surface with good lighting; never crawl under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe footwear; keep hands and loose clothing away from pinch points.
- Disconnect the battery if you will be working where tools can short electrical parts.
- Consult the Hino N04C service manual for vehicle-specific jacking points, torque specs, and suspension layout before starting.

- Tools and what each is, with how to use them (basic tools first)
- Hydraulic trolley jack
- Description: low-profile jack used to lift the truck at the jacking point.
- How to use: position under manufacturer jacking point, pump handle to raise; lift just enough to fit jack stands.
- Why: provides controlled lifting; never used as sole support.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: adjustable, locking stands that hold the vehicle safely.
- How to use: place under recommended support points, lower the vehicle onto stands; check stability.
- Why: mandatory backup support; safer than relying on the jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedges (rubber or plastic) placed behind wheels.
- How to use: chock wheels on opposite end of vehicle to prevent roll.
- Why: prevents movement while jacked.
- Socket set (metric), ratchet, and deep sockets
- Description: assortment of sockets (10–24 mm typical for light trucks), ratchet handle.
- How to use: select correct socket size, attach to ratchet, turn to remove nuts/bolts; use deep sockets for long studs.
- Why: primary fastener removal tool.
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Description: open-end/box-end wrenches for holding nuts or bolts.
- How to use: hold the mating side while turning the other with a socket or to access tight spaces.
- Why: sometimes necessary where sockets won’t fit.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long non-ratcheting bar for extra leverage.
- How to use: fit socket on breaker bar, use steady force to break loose tight or rusted nuts.
- Why: frees stubborn fasteners without damaging ratchet.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range)
- Description: wrench that tightens to a set torque (Nm).
- How to use: set required torque, tighten until a click; tighten fasteners to manufacturer specs.
- Why: ensures safe clamping force; prevents over/under-torquing.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Description: chemical to loosen rusted threads.
- How to use: spray on stuck bolts, wait 10–20 minutes, maybe repeat; tap with hammer to help penetration.
- Why: reduces chance of rounding nuts or breaking studs.
- Pry bar / large flat screwdriver
- Description: robust bar to lever components apart.
- How to use: use gentle leverage to persuade stuck parts to move; protect surfaces with scrap wood.
- Why: frees old mounts or shock from seized positions.
- Rubber mallet / hammer
- Description: soft-headed mallet to tap parts free without damaging them.
- How to use: strike with controlled, firm blows to loosen stuck components.
- Why: loosens mount or shock without deforming metal.
- Wire brush
- Description: stiff-bristle brush for cleaning rust and debris.
- How to use: clean mating surfaces and threads before reinstalling new parts.
- Why: improves fit and prevents premature corrosion.
- Screwdrivers / pliers
- Description: assorted screwdrivers and pliers for clips, brackets, cotter pins.
- How to use: remove small retainers, pull cotter pins, manipulate clips.
- Why: remove ancillary fastenings that hold the shock or mount cover.

- Extra / sometimes-required tools, why they may be needed, and how to use them
- Impact wrench (12V/air)
- Why required: speeds removal of heavily torqued fasteners and buses with seized bolts.
- How to use: fit correct socket, squeeze trigger briefly to break bolt free; follow up with manual tools for controlled removal.
- Spring compressor (coil spring compressor)
- Why required: if shock and coil spring are part of a strut assembly where the mount retains spring preload.
- How to use: compress spring evenly on both sides, secure, then disassemble strut; follow compressor instructions exactly.
- Safety note: only use rated compressors and avoid improvised methods; springs store a lot of energy.
- Hydraulic press or bench vise with appropriate adapters
- Why required: to press out and press in seized rubber bushings or bearing cups on the mount.
- How to use: use correct sized adapters to press part straight; do not hammer bushings into place.
- Cold chisel or bolt extractor kit
- Why required: to remove rounded or broken studs/bolts.
- How to use: follow extractor kit instructions; use carefully to avoid damaging surrounding threads.
- Heat source (propane torch)
- Why required: to expand and free severely rusted studs/nuts.
- How to use: heat nut/stud briefly to help release; protect rubber parts and connectors from heat. Use sparingly and safely.
- New replacement bolts/nuts (grade-marked)
- Why required: if bolts are corroded, stretched, or specified as single-use.
- How to use: replace like-for-like with correct grade and thread size; torque to spec.

- Parts you will likely inspect and/or replace (what and why)
- Shock absorber (recommended replacement if any of the following)
- Signs: oil leak, excessive bounce, broken rod seal, damaged body, poor damping.
- Why replace: worn shocks cause poor ride, instability, and accelerate mount wear.
- Recommendation: replace both left/right on the same axle as a pair for balanced handling.
- Shock mount/top mount (rubber insulator / bearing)
- Signs: torn rubber, excessive play, grinding or clunk over bumps, visible cracks.
- Why replace: worn mounts transmit noise/vibration and allow misalignment of shock; typically replaced with new mount or mount kit.
- Upper mounting studs/nuts and lower mounting bolts
- Signs: rusted, rounded, bent, or corroded threads.
- Why replace: safety-critical fasteners; replace if damaged or if manufacturer specifies single-use.
- Bushings (rubber/urethane)
- Signs: deformation, cracking, missing material.
- Why replace: bushings cushion and locate shock; replace worn bushings with new to restore correct geometry.
- Mount bearings (if strut-type)
- Signs: rough rotation, noise when steering or suspension moves.
- Why replace: failing bearings cause noise and steering feedback issues.
- Washers and locking hardware
- Why replace: ensure secure attachment and correct preload.

- Step-by-step procedure (bulleted actions — general workflow for a typical Hino front/rear shock mount replacement)
- Park vehicle on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while truck is on the ground (if wheel removal is required).
- Using the service manual, identify safe jacking points; raise vehicle with hydraulic jack and place jack stands under recommended support points; verify stable support.
- Remove wheel to access shock and mount area (if applicable).
- Inspect shock assembly and surrounding components; note any rusted fasteners, seized parts, or missing components.
- Spray penetrating oil on upper and lower shock fasteners; let soak 10–20 minutes (repeat if needed).
- Support the lower control arm or axle with a small jack or stand so it won’t drop suddenly when the shock is removed.
- Remove lower shock bolt(s)
- Use a socket or wrench on the nut/bolt head; if very tight, use a breaker bar or impact wrench to break it free.
- Hold the opposite side with a wrench if needed.
- Remove the bolt and carefully withdraw the shock lower eye from its mount.
- Remove upper mount nuts/studs
- Access top of shock mount in engine bay or wheel arch; use deep sockets if studs protrude.
- Remove nuts; keep any spacers or washers in order for reference.
- If studs are seized, apply more penetrating oil, gently tap with a hammer, or use heat carefully.
- Remove the shock and top mount assembly from the vehicle
- If the mount and shock are separate pieces, slide off the worn mount.
- If spring is retained by the mount (strut assembly), use a proper spring compressor before disassembly.
- Inspect removed parts
- Check shock for oil leaks and damage.
- Check mount rubber for cracks and bearing for wear.
- Check studs/bolts for thread damage or bending.
- Decide replacement scope
- If shock is leaking or performance-poor: replace shock absorber.
- If rubber mount/bearing is degraded or noisy: replace mount kit (mount + bearings + bushings).
- If bolts/studs corroded or stretched: replace with correct grade fasteners.
- Prepare new parts
- Clean mating surfaces with wire brush.
- Fit new mount components to the shock per kit instructions; use anti-seize on threads if recommended by manufacturer (avoid on torque-critical surfaces that require threadlocker).
- Install upper mount and loosely fit nuts by hand to hold assembly.
- Align lower eye and insert lower bolt; fit new washers/nuts if supplied.
- Tighten fasteners gradually, then torque to manufacturer specs
- Use a torque wrench and the Hino workshop manual torque values.
- If exact spec is not at hand, do not guess; obtain correct specs before final tightening (over/under torque is a safety risk).
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle onto ground, and torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Test ride and recheck
- Drive slowly over bumps to listen for new noises.
- Re-torque shock mount fasteners and wheel lug nuts after a short test drive if the manual advises re-torque.

- Common problems and how to address them
- Seized upper studs or broken studs
- Solution: apply penetrating oil, use heat, or use stud extractor; if stud breaks, drill and extract or replace the entire knuckle/stud assembly if necessary.
- Compressed/extended spring tension on strut assemblies
- Solution: always use a rated spring compressor and follow safety steps; if uncomfortable, have a shop do this.
- Corroded or damaged threads on chassis
- Solution: thread chase with proper tap, or install helicoil/insert per repair manual; if structural damage, consult a professional.
- Unequal ride after replacement
- Solution: replace shock on opposite side to match; check wheel alignment if needed.

- Final checks and recommendations
- Replace shocks in axle pairs for consistent handling.
- Replace fasteners that are visibly corroded, bent, or specified single-use.
- Always torque to factory specs — get the Hino N04C workshop manual or torque chart before final tightening.
- If you are ever unsure or run into seized/broken studs, large corrosion, or spring-preloaded assemblies, have a professional complete the job.

- Quick list of commonly needed replacement parts (buy as a kit where possible)
- Shock absorber (left/right as appropriate)
- Shock mount kit (rubber insulator, bearing, top mount plate)
- Upper stud nuts, lower mounting bolt and nut (new grade-matched fasteners)
- Bushings and washers included in mount kit
- Anti-seize compound and thread locker if specified

- Final safety note
- If you are a complete beginner and encounter compressed springs, heavily corroded structural components, broken studs, or anything beyond simple bolt removal and swap, stop and have the job done by a professional. Incorrectly repaired suspension components are a major safety hazard.


rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions