Safety first (read and follow before you start)
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and work boots; diesel is an irritant and slippery.
- Work outside or in a well‑ventilated area; avoid open flames or sparks — diesel can ignite.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before doing any fuel-system work to avoid sparks.
- Have a fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids nearby.
- Catch spilled fuel in a proper container and dispose of contaminated rags and fuel per local regulations.

Tools and what each one is, why it’s needed, and how to use it
- Metric socket set (3/8" and 1/2" drive, 8–22 mm common sizes)
- Description: ratchet + sockets of metric sizes.
- Why: used to remove pump mounting bolts, brackets, and hose clamps with hex heads.
- How to use: select correct socket size, attach to ratchet, turn counterclockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten. Use extensions for recessed bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 10–150 Nm or 8–110 ft‑lb range)
- Description: adjustable wrench that clicks at preset torque.
- Why: critical for tightening pump mounting bolts, fuel line fittings and flange bolts to manufacturer torque specs to avoid leaks or damage.
- How to use: set the required torque, tighten until it clicks once, do not exceed.
- Combination wrench set (open and box end, metric)
- Description: fixed-size wrenches.
- Why: access tight places where sockets won’t fit and for holding fittings while loosening nuts.
- How to use: choose correct size, pull rather than push when possible for safety.
- Flare‑nut / line wrenches (metric)
- Description: wrenches that grip more sides of a fuel‑line nut.
- Why: prevents rounding off fuel line fittings on steel or brass flared connections.
- How to use: place the wrench fully over fitting and break it loose; hold opposing fitting with another wrench to avoid twisting lines.
- Screwdriver set (flat and Phillips)
- Description: hand screwdrivers of various sizes.
- Why: for hose clamps, covers, and small screws.
- How to use: match tip size to screw head; press and turn steadily.
- Pliers (slip‑joint, needle‑nose) and hose clamp pliers
- Description: general gripping and clamp removal tools.
- Why: remove retaining clips, pinch clamps and pull hoses.
- How to use: grip firmly and pull; needle‑nose for small clips.
- Drain pan / fuel-safe container
- Description: shallow tray and sealable jugs rated for fuel.
- Why: to catch fuel when you open lines or remove pump.
- How to use: place under removal area, transfer fuel into sealed container.
- Rags and absorbent pads
- Description: shop rags and absorbents.
- Why: clean spills and wipe connections.
- How to use: keep handy to mop spills immediately.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Description: chemical loosener for rusted bolts.
- Why: helps break seized bolts on older trucks.
- How to use: spray, wait 10–15 minutes, then try loosening.
- Replacement gaskets, O‑rings and new fuel-line crush washers
- Description: soft seals and copper washers used between fittings.
- Why: always replace seals to prevent leaks after reassembly.
- How to use: remove old seals, clean surfaces, seat new seals correctly.
- Fuel filter(s) (new)
- Description: new primary/secondary filters for diesel.
- Why: when replacing pump, replace filters to avoid introducing contaminants.
- How to use: change per filter manufacturer instructions.
- Rubber fuel hose (spare) and hose clamps
- Description: diesel‑rated hose.
- Why: old hoses may be swollen or cracked — replace if worn.
- How to use: cut to length and secure with clamps.
- Small hand pump or syringe for priming (manual priming bulb if fitted)
- Description: pump to move fuel by hand.
- Why: used to prime fuel system and remove air before starting.
- How to use: connect to bleed/prime nipple and pump until fuel flows free of air.
- Multimeter (if pump is electric)
- Description: measures voltage, continuity.
- Why: to check power to the pump and test switches/relays.
- How to use: set to DC volts to check battery/power; continuity for fuses or wires.
- Jack and axle stands + wheel chocks (if you need to lift vehicle)
- Description: hydraulic jack and stands to support vehicle safely.
- Why: needed if pump is under vehicle or access requires lifting.
- How to use: chock wheels, lift at manufacturer jack points, place stands under solid frame.
- Special tools (may be required for high‑pressure injection pump removal)
- Injection pump timing tool or crankshaft locking tool
- Why: keeps engine at TDC and pump at correct timing position. Required for high-pressure/injection pump removal/installation.
- Pump removal/puller tool or holding fixture
- Why: some pumps are pressed or have tight splines; tool prevents damage.
- Dial gauge (for precise timing)
- Why: to set injection timing accurately.
- How to use: these are specialized; follow the workshop manual instructions precisely. If you lack these, professional service is strongly recommended.

Which fuel pump could be on your Hino N04C and why that matters
- Low‑pressure feed/lift pump (electric or mechanical)
- Role: moves diesel from tank to primary filter/injection pump; low-pressure side.
- Replacement complexity: moderate; typically bolt-on and can be DIY if you can access lines and prime system.
- High‑pressure injection pump (gear‑driven or timed)
- Role: pressurizes fuel for injectors and sets injection timing.
- Replacement complexity: high; requires timing tools and careful calibration. Mistimed installation can cause severe engine damage or no-start. Consider professional replacement unless you have the required tools and factory manual.

Parts commonly required when replacing the pump (and why)
- New fuel pump assembly
- Why: the failed item — purchase OEM or exact aftermarket equivalent for fit and calibration.
- Gasket kits and O‑rings for the pump flange and lines
- Why: old seals will leak; always replace during service.
- Copper crush washers for banjo bolts or fuel line fittings
- Why: single‑use seals that compress; reuse causes leaks.
- Fuel filters (primary and secondary)
- Why: contaminated filters can cause pump failure; replace to protect new pump.
- Fuel hoses and clamps (if cracked or hardened)
- Why: prevent future leaks.
- Pump mounting bolts (if damaged or corroded) and recommended thread locker
- Why: replace stripped or corroded bolts; use thread locker where specified.
- Injection pump calibration or timing kit (if replacing high‑pressure pump)
- Why: new pump may need to be calibrated or timed to engine; some pumps are bench‑calibrated and must be fitted with correct timing.

Step‑by‑step procedure for replacing a low‑pressure lift pump (generalized, for a beginner)
- Prepare workspace and safety gear, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Relieve fuel pressure and prepare to catch fuel
- Open drain on primary filter (if present) or loosen a downstream fuel line fitting slowly with a drain pan under it to relieve pressure.
- If vehicle has a manual priming bulb, squeeze to release pressure.
- Identify pump location
- Usually mounted on engine block, frame rail or near fuel tank. Consult engine diagram or manual.
- Label and photograph hoses and electrical connectors
- Use tape and marker so you can reconnect exactly as removed.
- Remove electrical connector and fuel lines
- Use flare‑nut wrench on fittings to avoid rounding. Cap lines or plug ports immediately to limit contamination and spills.
- Catch fuel in the drain pan.
- Unbolt pump and remove
- Spray penetrating oil on bolts and allow soak time if rusty. Use socket/wrench to remove mounting bolts.
- Remove pump carefully; note any spacer or gasket orientation.
- Inspect mounting surface and clean
- Remove old gasket material with gasket scraper, wipe clean with rags.
- Install new pump with new gasket/O‑rings
- Fit new seals, align pump and hand‑start bolts. Tighten to manufacturer torque spec with torque wrench (if you don’t have manual torque specs, tighten snugly then check shop manual — avoid over‑tightening).
- Reconnect fuel lines with new crush washers/O‑rings
- Tighten flare‑nuts hand‑tight then with wrench; do not overtighten.
- Reconnect electrical connector
- Ensure clean, dry connections; use dielectric grease if you have it.
- Replace fuel filter(s) now while system is open
- Install new filters and prime per filter instructions.
- Prime the fuel system
- Use manual priming pump or turn ignition to ON for 10–15 second cycles to allow electric pump to move fuel; repeat until fuel runs clear at bleed points and no air is present.
- If manual priming screw exists on the filter housing, open it until fuel flows solid, then close.
- Start engine and check for leaks
- Run engine at idle; inspect all fittings with flashlight. Tighten any fitting with a slight drip.
- Road test and final check
- After a short drive, recheck mounts and fittings for looseness or leaks.

Bleeding tips for diesel systems (common approaches)
- Use manual primer (if fitted) until steady fuel flow without bubbles.
- Use the key cycle method (turn key ON but don’t start, hold for 10–15 s, OFF for 5 s, repeat) so electric pump can work and bleeds the circuit.
- Open bleed screw at filter/injection pump inlet while priming until only fuel (no bubbles) appears.
- Crank the engine if it won’t start, but avoid long continuous cranking — allow rest to prevent starter damage.

High‑pressure injection pump replacement (overview and cautions)
- This is advanced work requiring timing/locking tools, possible bench calibration, and precise torque and timing procedures.
- If your Hino has a distribution or common‑rail high‑pressure pump tied to cam/crank timing:
- Lock the crank at TDC, lock camshaft (if required), and use the injection pump timing pin/tool to hold pump position.
- Mark and photograph gear positions before removal.
- Remove drive gear/belt and pump, install new pump aligning timing marks exactly.
- Replace all seals and crush washers.
- Re-torque to exact specs from factory manual.
- Bleed system and perform cranking/priming per manual.
- If you do not have the correct timing tools and factory torque/timing specs, do not attempt this — a mistimed pump can cause catastrophic engine damage. Seek a qualified technician.

Common problems and what else to replace while you’re at it
- Replace fuel filters (primary and secondary) to protect the new pump.
- Replace rubber hoses and clamps if they are hardened or cracked.
- Replace electrical connectors or relays that show corrosion; check fuse and pump relay operation with multimeter.
- Replace any bent or damaged banjo bolts and all crushed copper washers.
- If air ingress was present, check tank venting and lift pump suction lines for cracks.

How to test after installation
- Visual leak check while engine is idling.
- Run engine to operating temperature and monitor for smoke, rough running, or leaks.
- Check fuel pressure at test port (if available) with a fuel pressure gauge to ensure pump is providing correct pressure.
- Road test under light load, re‑inspect for leaks and mounting integrity.

When to call a professional
- If the pump to be replaced is the high‑pressure injection pump and you don’t have timing/locking tools and the workshop manual.
- If after replacement the engine runs poorly, oil pressure drops, or unusual noises occur.
- If you cannot eliminate air in the fuel system or there are persistent leaks.

Quick parts checklist to buy before starting
- Correct replacement fuel pump (OEM or exact fit)
- Pump gasket/O‑ring kit
- Fuel filters (primary and secondary)
- Copper crush washers for all banjo/line fittings
- Diesel‑rated hoses and clamps (if needed)
- Thread locker and anti‑seize (if called for by manual)
- Personal protective equipment and fuel catch containers

Final notes
- Never reuse crush washers or damaged O‑rings.
- Always consult the Hino N04C factory workshop manual for exact torque values, timing procedures, and pump part numbers; follow those specs over any general guide.
- If any step is unclear or if the pump is the high‑pressure injection unit, have the job inspected or done by a Hino diesel technician.

No extra questions — follow these steps and consult the factory manual for torque and timing specifications.
rteeqp73

Hino 300 Engine Overhauling, Hino N04C Engine, Hino Crankshaft Institutions Hino Engine Overhauling, Crankshaft Installation.

Hino N04C Euro4 Engine View Enjoy :D.

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