- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, cut-resistant gloves and long sleeves to prevent glass cuts.
- Work on a flat, stable surface in a dry, well-ventilated area; keep bystanders clear.
- Disconnect battery if any electrical connectors or camera/sensor cables attached to the windshield.
- Do not drive the vehicle until the adhesive has cured to the urethane manufacturer’s specified time.

- Basic overview — when to repair vs replace
- Repair (chip repair) is appropriate when damage is a single stone chip or bullseye less than ~25 mm (1") and not in the driver’s direct line of sight, not a long crack, and not touching the edge of the glass.
- Replace when cracks exceed ~300 mm (12"), damage reaches the edge, multiple cracks or long star breaks exist, or the damage obstructs the driver’s view or affects structural integrity.
- Replace if the windshield has sensor/camera mounts that require recalibration or the glass molding/pins are damaged beyond repair.

- Tools you likely already have (basic tools) — what they are and how to use them
- Safety glasses and cut-resistant gloves
- Protect eyes and hands from glass shards and chemical contact. Always wear them when cutting adhesive or handling glass.
- Utility knife / carpet knife
- Use to cut away interior trim, tape, and loosen the rubber molding. Keep blade sharp; pull blade away from yourself and use controlled strokes.
- Flat plastic trim/panel tools (nylon)
- Use to pry interior trim without scratching paint or bending metal. Insert gently and lever trim clips out.
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat)
- Remove trim screws and fasteners. Use correct size to avoid stripping heads.
- Socket set or metric wrench set
- Remove fasteners, mirror mounts, or bracket bolts. Securely hold the ratchet and use steady torque.
- Shop vacuum or broom/brush
- Clean up glass fragments from pinch weld and interior. Vacuum thoroughly to avoid glass shards left under seats.
- Clean rags and isopropyl alcohol (90%+)
- Clean pinch weld and new glass bonding area. Use lint-free rags; dry surface fully.

- Additional recommended tools (why required, how to use)
- Windshield removal cutting tool / cold knife or utility cut-out tool
- Why: Cuts through factory urethane quickly and safely without damaging the pinch weld. Using a handheld cold knife, keep blade parallel to glass and pull steadily. A powered cut-out (rotary or reciprocating) speeds removal but must be used carefully to avoid cutting sheet metal.
- Urethane remover / wire or piano wire (windshield removal wire)
- Why: Alternative to cutting tools for separating glass from adhesive. Work with two people: feed wire behind glass, use sawing motion to slice adhesive while pulling glass out.
- Suction cup glass lifter(s)
- Why: Allows safe handling and placement of heavy windshield. Attach to clean glass, pump or secure the cups, and lift with even pressure. Use at least two cups for truck windshields.
- Urethane adhesive (automotive-grade windshield urethane) and caulking gun
- Why: Bond strength and proper sealing require automotive-grade urethane. Load cartridge into pneumatic or manual caulking gun and apply continuous bead to pinch weld per manufacturer bead profile.
- Primer for glass and metal (glass primer and pinch-weld primer)
- Why: Promotes proper adhesion between urethane and surfaces. Apply thin coat to cleaned glass edge and pinch weld; allow flash-off as per instructions.
- Glass setting blocks / shims
- Why: Position and support the windshield evenly while adhesive cures. Place blocks on lower pinch weld to achieve correct height and tilt.
- Painter’s tape / masking tape
- Why: Hold windshield in place after setting and protect trim/paint while working.
- Razor blades and adhesive scrapers
- Why: Remove old urethane and residue. Use razor carefully on metal — avoid gouging pinch weld. A metal scraper can be used with caution.
- Heat gun (optional)
- Why: Softens rubber molding for easier removal and installation in cold weather. Keep temperature moderate to avoid cracking glass or burning rubber.
- Torque wrench (if any bolts require specific torque)
- Why: Reinstall brackets/mirrors to specified torque. Use correct torque settings to avoid overtightening.

- Specialized tools you might need and why (recommended if you want a reliable job)
- Windshield removal power tool (reciprocating saw with specialized blade or pneumatic cut-out)
- Why: Faster and reduces labor; recommended for professional-level removal on heavy truck glass.
- Glass lifter with vacuum pump and handles (professional-grade)
- Why: Safer single-person handling for large truck windshields.
- Windshield repair bridge kit (for chip repair)
- Why: For injecting resin into chips; consists of a bridge, injector, resin, curing strips, and UV light or sunlight curing instructions.
- ADAS calibration tools or professional calibration service
- Why: If the vehicle has forward-facing cameras, sensors, or driver-assist systems, the camera often gets repositioned during replacement and requires calibration to factory specifications. This typically requires a dealer-level or specialty shop calibration rig.

- Replacement parts that might be required (what and why)
- Replacement windshield glass (OEM or aftermarket)
- Why: If repair is not possible, you need a new windshield that matches the vehicle’s curvature, sensor mounts, black frit pattern, and attachment points.
- Molding and rubber seals
- Why: Old moldings often deform or tear during removal and must be replaced to ensure proper sealing and fit.
- Clips, retainers, and mounting brackets
- Why: Broken or corroded clips that hold trim/molding should be replaced to secure the glass and trim correctly.
- Adhesive/urethane and primers
- Why: Adhesive loses properties if old; fresh urethane is required for structural bonding.
- Mirror bracket or sensor housings (if damaged)
- Why: Mirror or sensor attachments may be glued to the glass; replacement may be needed if damaged during removal.
- ADAS camera module (rarely) or recalibration service
- Why: If the camera was damaged or cannot be re-mounted accurately, replacement or recalibration is necessary to maintain safety features.

- Chip repair procedure (basic, beginners)
- Clean area around chip with glass cleaner and dry.
- Assemble a windshield repair kit (bridge, injector, resin).
- Attach bridge centered over the chip following kit instructions.
- Inject resin into the chip, use vacuum step if provided, then press resin in and allow it to fill the void.
- Apply curing strip and cure under UV light or sunlight per resin instructions.
- Remove excess resin with razor blade and polish with glass cleaner.
- Inspect result; if the damage is reduced and structurally sound, done. If not, plan for replacement.

- Full windshield replacement procedure (high-level, beginner-friendly)
- Remove wipers, exterior trim, mirror, and interior moldings carefully with trim tools and screwdrivers.
- Cut through old urethane using a cold knife, removal wire, or cut-out tool. Have a helper hold the glass or use suction cups.
- Lift out the old windshield using suction cups and set aside on a protected surface.
- Clean pinch weld thoroughly: remove all old urethane with scrapers, wire wheels, and solvent; vacuum glass fragments.
- Prime pinch weld and the new windshield bonding area per primer instructions; let flash-off.
- Apply continuous bead of windshield urethane to pinch weld with caulking gun; maintain correct bead profile (consult adhesive instructions).
- With helpers and suction lifters, set the new windshield into place, resting on setting blocks, aligning gap and molding.
- Press evenly around the perimeter to seat the glass into the urethane; tape in position with painter’s tape to prevent movement.
- Reinstall trim, mirror, wipers, and other components. Replace any damaged moldings/clips.
- Allow adhesive to cure for specified minimum drive-away time (often 1–2 hours for short moves, but full cure up to 24 hours depending on urethane and temperature).
- Check for leaks after cure using water test (hose) and inspect interior for any adhesive squeeze-out; clean with solvent if necessary.

- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Rushing adhesive cure — do not drive too soon.
- Incomplete removal of old urethane — prevents proper bonding.
- Not using primer — reduces adhesive effectiveness and risks leaks.
- Damaging pinch weld or paint with power tools — go slow and protect surfaces.
- Not using suction cups — risk of dropping or cracking glass.
- Neglecting ADAS — failure to recalibrate cameras/sensors can affect safety systems.

- Final notes and recommendations
- For a Hino truck (heavy glass, large windshield), use at least two people and professional-grade suction lifters.
- If the windshield has camera/sensor mounts or driver-assist systems, plan for professional calibration after replacement.
- If uncertain at any step, or if windshield is structural or large/heavy, professional replacement is recommended for safety and warranty reasons.
- Use OEM or trusted aftermarket glass and automotive-grade urethane and primers for best results.


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