Below is a direct, step-by-step shop-style procedure for replacing the anti‑roll (stabilizer/sway) bar on a Hino (N04C application). Includes tools, safety, how each tool is used, parts commonly replaced, and common pitfalls to avoid. Follow factory torque specs from the Hino workshop manual for final tightening — I do not supply exact torque numbers here because they must match your vehicle’s model/year specification.

Tools & consumables
- Full metric socket set (deep & shallow) 8–32 mm, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
- Combination/box wrenches (matching socket sizes)
- Torque wrench (range to cover all required torques)
- Breaker bar (for seized bolts)
- Impact wrench (optional; speeds removal)
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Rubber/nylon mallet and/or small hammer
- Pry bar(s)
- Floor jack (rated for vehicle) and heavy-duty jack stands or two-post lift
- Wheel chocks
- Large pry/panel tool or flat screwdriver
- Wire brush and cleaning rags
- Grease (silicone or moly grease recommended for bushings)
- Threadlocker (medium strength) and anti-seize compound
- Replacement parts: new anti‑roll bar bushings, bushing brackets (if worn), end‑link kits (recommended), nuts/bolts/washers (replace if corroded)
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, steel-toe boots

Safety & setup
1. Park on level hard surface. Engage parking brake and chock rear wheels.
2. If possible use a lift. If using a jack, raise vehicle at manufacturer lift points and support with rated jack stands under the frame. Never work supported only by a jack.
3. Wear PPE. Keep hands clear of pinch points. Keep bystanders clear.
4. Before beginning, note orientation of bar and links. Take photos for reassembly reference.

Procedure
1. Prep and access
- Remove any belly pans, splash shields or components blocking access to the anti‑roll bar.
- If replacing front anti‑roll bar, remove the front wheels for better access.

2. Support axle/control arm
- Place a jack (or jack stand) under the axle or lower control arm to support the suspension droop when end links are disconnected. This prevents the suspension from dropping and/or putting twist on the bar during removal.

3. Apply penetrating oil
- Spray penetrating oil onto end‑link studs, bracket bolts, and nuts. Let soak several minutes to ease removal.

4. Disconnect end links
- Remove nut(s) on stabilizer end links where they connect to control arm/links. Hold the stud with an Allen or hex (if fitted) or use a wrench on the stud head while removing the nut.
- If studs are seized, use a breaker bar or impact, or separate with a ball‑joint separator/pickle fork as necessary.
- Remove the link from the control arm and from the anti‑roll bar. If using link‑to‑bar bushings, remove those components.

How the tools are used:
- Impact wrench speeds nut removal; breaker bar provides controlled leverage for stubborn fasteners.
- Use pry bar to relieve tension while removing nut or pushing link out.

5. Unbolt bushing brackets
- Loosen and remove the bushing bracket mounting bolts (these secure the bushings to the frame). There are usually two brackets (left & right).
- Keep the brackets and bolts as reference; replace if corroded or distorted.

6. Remove anti‑roll bar
- With end links and brackets removed, maneuver the bar free of its mounts. You may need to rotate the bar and drop the axle slightly (supported by jack) to clear control arms/cross members.
- Use a pry bar to assist removing the bar from tight clearance points—protect paint and rubber components while prying.

7. Inspect related components
- Check control arms, ball joints, bushings, link studs for wear or play. Replace worn suspension components while you have access.

8. Prep new bar & bushings
- Install new bushings on the bar (if replacing). Grease the bushing inside surface liberally with recommended grease to prevent squeaks and bind — do not use petroleum grease on rubber if incompatible; use silicone/moly where specified.
- Position bracket halves over bushings (if separate).

9. Fit new bar into position
- Maneuver the new bar into the same orientation as removed. Use jack to align the suspension so the end link holes align with bar mounts.
- Fit bushings/brackets loosely on the frame and hand-tighten bolts to hold the bar.

10. Reconnect end links
- Install new or inspected end links between bar and control arms. Install washers and nuts.
- Hand-tighten initially to ensure alignment. Use pry bar to align holes if needed.

11. Final tightening
- Once everything is aligned and the vehicle is at normal ride height (this is important for bushing preload), torque all fasteners to factory specifications in the proper sequence:
- Torque bracket bolts to spec.
- Torque end‑link nuts to spec.
- Use medium threadlocker on bolts where specified by the manual and anti-seize on exposed threads if recommended.

How the tools are used:
- Torque wrench: set to vehicle spec and tighten in stages to achieve accurate torque.
- Breaker bar: for initial loosening/tightening of larger fasteners if needed.
- Pry bar: to align holes during installation.

12. Reassembly & test
- Reinstall splash shields/wheels. Lower vehicle to ground slowly.
- Tighten wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Perform a test drive checking for abnormal noises, clunks, or handling issues. Re-check torque after 100–200 km or after first few hard cycles.

Replacement parts & common recommended parts
- Anti‑roll bar bushings (replace: rubber or polyurethane)
- Bushing brackets/bolts (inspect; replace if stretched/corroded)
- End‑link kit (links, studs, nuts/ball joints if OE links are worn)
- Bolts/nuts/washers (replace corroded or stretched fasteners)
- If bar is bent or cracked, replace the whole stabilizer bar

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Working with unsupported suspension: Always support axle/control arm. If you let the suspension drop uncontrolled, you can damage other components and make re‑installation difficult.
- Reusing worn bushings or end links: They commonly cause noise/poor handling; replace them when replacing the bar.
- Incorrect bushing lubrication: Use the correct grease (silicone or factory-recommended) to avoid bushing swelling or deterioration.
- Over/under torqueing: Use a calibrated torque wrench and factory specs. Over-torque can crush bushings or strip threads; under-torque can cause loosening and noise.
- Failing to install bar at ride height: Tightening brackets with wheel off the ground or suspension fully drooped preloads bushings incorrectly — tighten at normal ride height where specified.
- Damaging studs during removal: Apply penetrating oil and avoid excessive hammering; use proper separators or heat if necessary to free seized studs.
- Ignoring related wear: Sway bar replacement is a good time to inspect control arms, ball joints, and shocks. Failing to replace other worn parts will lead to repeat complaints.

Notes on difficult removals
- Corroded bracket bolts or seized end‑link studs: use penetrating oil, heat on the nut (careful around rubber components), or cut and replace bolts if inseparable. Always replace any bolt you have to cut.
- Frozen bushings on the old bar: If you need to remove old rubber bushings pressed on the bar, a bench vise and appropriate puller or cutting and cleanup may be required.

Wrap-up
- Use factory Hino workshop manual for exact torque values and any model-specific steps (some chassis have anti‑freeze shields, routing clips, or additional brackets).
- Replace bushings and links as a set for best results.
- Re-check fasteners after initial road testing.

Done.
rteeqp73

Hino 300 series valve adjustment /(In30-45Ex)

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