- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe shoes.
- Work on level ground with engine off, parking brake set, and wheel chocks on rear wheels.
- Use a hydraulic jack and rated jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Keep hands and tools clear of springs, belts, and pinch points.

- Preparation before aligning
- Inflate all tires to the recommended pressures and check for uneven wear or damage.
- Remove heavy payloads so the truck sits at normal ride height for alignment (operator + typical cargo).
- Check and top-up suspension fluids if any; loosen any seized lock nuts with penetrating oil before trying adjustments.
- Obtain the Hino alignment specification sheet (toe, camber, caster, thrust angle) for the exact model/year — you will need these target numbers.

- Tools (each tool described and how to use it)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: Pump jack with lifting arm capacity rated for the truck’s weight.
- Use: Lift the front axle or wheel enough to remove wheel if needed; always place jack stands under solid axle points after lifting.
- Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
- Description: Adjustable support stands to hold vehicle after lifting.
- Use: Place on firm point on frame or axle; lower vehicle onto stands securely.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Heavy rubber or metal blocks to prevent rolling.
- Use: Place behind rear wheels on both sides before lifting front.
- Torque wrench (suitable range e.g., 50–300 Nm or more depending on nuts)
- Description: Click-type or beam wrench for accurate torque.
- Use: Torque wheel nuts and any suspension fasteners to factory values.
- Socket and spanner set (including long sockets and breaker bar)
- Description: Metric and SAE sockets, open-end and box spanners.
- Use: Remove wheels, loosen/tighten lock nuts and adjustment sleeves.
- Tie-rod adjusting wrench or large open-end spanner
- Description: Long-handled wrench sized for tie-rod lock nuts; sometimes a specialized sleeve wrench.
- Use: Hold adjustment sleeve and back off lock nuts to turn tie rod ends for toe adjustments.
- Measuring tape (2–5 m / 6–16 ft) and straightedge (or long string)
- Description: Steel or cloth tape, straightedge or a long plank.
- Use: Measure track widths and toe dimensions; used in the string alignment method.
- Chalk, marker, or paint stick
- Description: For marking steering center and reference points on wheel/tire.
- Use: Mark centerline of tire tread and mark reference points for repeat checks.
- Plumb bob or laser level
- Description: Weight on string to create vertical reference, or small laser level for precision.
- Use: To set vehicle centerline relative to wheels when using string method.
- Digital inclinometer / angle gauge or camber/caster gauge
- Description: Hand-held angle device that reads degrees; some are phone apps with magnetic mounts.
- Use: Measure camber and caster angles at wheel hub or brake rotor face.
- Toe plates or simple wooden blocks that sit against wheel face (optional)
- Description: Flat plates with a reference edge and a scale.
- Use: Quick toe measurement tool to simplify measuring parallelism of wheels.
- Wheel turntables or low-friction pads (helpful)
- Description: Turntables under front wheels to let wheels steer easily during checking.
- Use: Place under front wheels so the wheels can be easily turned to center steering wheel without resistance.
- Straightedge across hub faces or rim (steel ruler)
- Description: Long rigid bar.
- Use: Help check camber and to align string height.
- Dial indicator (optional for very accurate toe/caster checks)
- Description: Precision measurement tool.
- Use: Measure wheel runout or kingpin/caster changes when steering is turned.
- Penetrating oil, hammer, punch, and punch set
- Description: For freeing corroded nuts and removing cotter pins.
- Use: Free seized components and drive out taper pins if replacing parts.
- Replacement & specialty tools (if you decide to do more than simple toe)
- Ball joint press, puller, tie-rod puller
- Description: Tools to remove pressed-in joints safely.
- Why required: If ball joints or tie rod ends are seized/corroded or need replacement, normal wrenches will not remove them.
- Steering gearbox holding tools or pitman arm puller
- Description: Useful if replacing pitman arm or adjusting gearbox.
- Why required: Pitman arm removal needs mechanical puller to avoid damage.
- Professional wheel alignment machine or 4-wheel laser alignment
- Description: Computerized shop machine that measures all alignment angles to manufacturer specs.
- Why required: For accurate camber/caster/thrust adjustments, minimal downtime and guaranteed results; recommended if anything beyond toe is out of spec.

- How to check for worn parts (what to look for and why replacement may be required)
- Check tie-rod ends
- How: With the wheel off the ground, push/pull the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock; feel for play at the tie-rod. Visually inspect rubber boots for tears and grease leakage.
- Why replace: Play in tie-rod ends causes unstable steering and makes adjustments impossible to hold.
- Replacement part: Outer/inner tie-rod ends (replace both sides if worn).
- Check drag link, pitman arm, idler arm and steering gearbox
- How: Inspect for looseness or play when steering wheel moved; look for worn bushings.
- Why replace: Excessive play shifts toe and steering center; unsafe.
- Replacement part: Drag link, pitman arm, idler arm, or gearbox repairs.
- Check ball joints and kingpins (if present)
- How: Jack wheel, grab at top/bottom and wiggle to detect vertical play; inspect dust boots.
- Why replace: Worn ball joints change camber and caster under load and are safety-critical.
- Replacement part: Ball joints or kingpin rebuild kit/sleeves.
- Check wheel bearings and hub
- How: Rotate wheel and listen/feel for roughness; check axial play.
- Why replace: Wheel runout or looseness affects measurements and causes vibration and uneven wear.
- Replacement part: Wheel bearings, seals, hub assembly.
- Check suspension bushings and springs
- How: Visual inspection for cracks, sag, or movement during load.
- Why replace: Worn bushings allow uncontrolled geometry change under load.
- Replacement part: Control arm bushings, spring mounts, shackles.
- If any wear is found, replace the worn parts before attempting final alignment — alignment cannot be accurate or will not hold if steering/suspension components are loose or damaged.

- Beginner alignment method (string method) — useful for toe adjustment
- Set the vehicle up
- Place jack stands under axle so truck sits level on the ground with normal ride height.
- Center the steering wheel and lock it in place with tape or mark its center position.
- Put front wheels pointing straight ahead.
- Establish vehicle centerline with string or laser
- Run a string along each side of the vehicle parallel to the centerline — use plumb bob at the front and rear center points to align the strings equidistant from centerline and the vehicle frame.
- Use the plumb bob to drop a vertical reference from a center point on the front bumper or grille to align strings equally left/right.
- Measure toe
- Mark the wheel at hub height on both front and rear of each tire with chalk.
- Place the string so it just touches both front and rear marks on each wheel’s tread (or use toe plates).
- Measure from the string to the rim or a fixed point on the wheel at the front and rear of each tire and record measurements.
- Toe is difference between front and rear measurements; positive toe means wheels point inwards.
- Adjust toe via tie-rod
- Loosen the locknuts on the tie-rod adjusting sleeves.
- Turn the tie-rod sleeve equally on both sides to bring the front and rear measurements to target (factory spec).
- Re-tighten locknuts to proper torque while holding the adjustment sleeve to prevent twisting.
- Re-check measurements and steering center; readjust if necessary.
- Recheck and road-test
- Lower vehicle if raised, torque wheels to spec.
- Drive slowly and center the steering wheel; check for pull or wanders.
- Recheck toe after a short drive.

- How to measure camber and caster with basic tools and limits for DIY
- Camber measurement
- Use a digital inclinometer or camber gauge held against the wheel rim or brake rotor face; compare left and right values to spec.
- Small camber adjustments are often made by using adjustable ball joints, shims or repositioning strut mounts — many Hino trucks use shims or eccentric bolts. If camber is adjustable and you have the appropriate eccentric bolts/shims, adjust per manual.
- If camber is out of spec and cannot be corrected with available adjusters, worn suspension parts or bent components are likely — replace parts or consult a shop.
- Caster measurement
- Use an inclinometer or caster gauge; measure with wheels straight and then turned specified degrees per the tool instructions to calculate caster.
- Caster adjustments usually require adjustable control arms or shims on the suspension or eccentric washers at the spring perches. Many heavy trucks need special tools or gearbox adjustments to change caster; often best done at a shop.
- Realistic DIY limit
- Beginners with basic tools can reliably set toe using the string method.
- Camber and caster measurements can be checked, but many corrections require special parts or a shop’s alignment machine and should be handled professionally if out of spec.

- Typical replacement parts needed for alignment problems and why
- Tie-rod ends (inner/outer)
- Cause: Worn joints cause free play and can’t hold toe.
- Replace: If any play is found or boots are damaged.
- Drag link / pitman arm / idler arm
- Cause: Wear causes steering center drift and instability.
- Replace: If there’s play or excessive wear.
- Ball joints / kingpins / control arm bushings
- Cause: Affect camber/caster and lead to irregular tire wear.
- Replace: If any vertical or lateral play exists.
- Wheel bearings / hub assemblies
- Cause: Runout and looseness distort measurements.
- Replace: If roughness or axial play found.
- Steering gearbox seals or rebuild kits
- Cause: Internal wear produces steering lash.
- Replace/repair: If there’s excessive steering play originating from box.
- Alignment-specific hardware (eccentric bolts, shims)
- Cause: Needed to correct camber/caster or thrust angle.
- Replace/fit: If the vehicle lacks adjustability or current hardware is corroded/damaged.

- Final checks and notes
- Always re-torque locknuts and wheel nuts to manufacturer torque after adjustment.
- After any part replacement, re-check alignment from zero — parts change geometry.
- Drive 10–20 km and re-check toe and steering centering.
- If steering wheel cannot be centered or alignment moves out quickly, or if camber/caster are out of spec and not adjustable, take the truck to a professional alignment shop with a 4-wheel alignment rack.
- Keep records of settings and part replacements for future reference.

- When a professional is required (save time and ensure safety)
- Camber or caster out of spec and requires shims, eccentric bolts, or control arm replacement.
- Bent frame, damaged suspension components, or worn steering gearbox.
- Need of a tow-in guarantee or exact factory tolerances — use a shop with a computerized alignment machine.

- Quick checklist summary (do these in order)
- Check tire pressures and wear.
- Inspect steering/suspension for play and replace worn parts.
- Center steering wheel.
- Level vehicle at normal ride height.
- Use string/toe plates to measure and set toe; tighten lock nuts and torque.
- Check camber and caster with angle gauge; correct or consult shop if out of spec.
- Road test and re-check.

- Final safety reminder
- If you are unsure about removing or installing steering or suspension components, or if the truck is heavily corroded, use a professional. Faulty steering/suspension work can be dangerous.


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