Goal: Give you a clear, beginner‑friendly workshop guide to suspension geometry adjustment for a Hino truck that uses the N04C engine (medium‑duty Hino chassis). This covers what every component is and does, why alignment is needed, how the system works, how to measure and adjust, common failure modes, and safety. I do not ask questions — follow workshop manual values for exact specs and torques.

Quick analogy to start
- Toe is like whether the front of two skateboards point slightly toward/away from each other — it controls straight‑line tracking and tire scrub.
- Caster is like the caster wheel on a shopping cart — tilted steering axis makes the wheel self‑center.
- Camber is like tilting a picture frame inwards/outwards — it changes how the tire contacts the road.

1) Major components (what they are, where they are, what they do)
- Front axle beam (solid axle): the heavy cross member that carries the wheels. It mounts to the leaf springs or spring hangers and supports the steering knuckles.
- Leaf springs (multi‑leaf or mono‑leaf): rods stacked together that support vehicle weight and set ride height. Front springs locate the axle fore/aft and allow small adjustments for caster/camber via shims or eccentric bushings.
- Spring shackles and spring eyes: the ends of the leaf spring that bolt to frame hangers or shackles. Bushings in the eyes let the spring pivot; worn bushings cause play.
- U‑bolts and axle seats/pads: clamp the spring to the axle. Loose or damaged U‑bolts change alignment and ride height.
- Steering knuckle / spindle: the upright that carries the wheel hub and rotates for steering. The steering axis goes through the knuckle (kingpin or ball joint area).
- Kingpin / kingpin bushings or ball joints: pivot points in the knuckle; wear here causes excessive play and alignment drift.
- Tie rod (track rod): links the two steering knuckles. It’s adjustable and is the primary toe adjustment. Outer and inner tie‑rod ends have locknuts.
- Drag link: connects the pitman arm (from steering gearbox) to one steering knuckle. It transmits steering input.
- Pitman arm and steering gearbox: convert steering wheel rotation to drag link movement.
- Idler arm (if present) and center link: support the steering linkage opposite the pitman arm on some chassis.
- Wheel bearings/hub assembly: allow wheel rotation; excessive play affects toe/camber readings.
- Steering stops, bump stops, brake components: physical limits and loads can affect measurement if contacting during testing.

2) Theory — what each geometry term means and why it matters
- Toe (in/out): angle of the tire pointing left/right relative to vehicle centerline when viewed from above.
- Toe‑in (front edges closer) generally improves straight stability; toe‑out reduces stability.
- Incorrect toe = rapid, feathered tire wear and wandering steering.
- Caster: tilt of steering axis fore/aft when viewed from the side (positive caster = top of steering axis tilted rearward).
- Positive caster gives self‑centering and straight tracking; too much increases steering effort and loads bearings.
- Camber: tilt of wheel from vertical when viewed from front (negative = top inwards).
- Camber affects corner contact patch and evenness of wear.
- Steering Axis Inclination (SAI): geometric tilt of the steering axis; ties with camber/caster for returnability and steering feel.
- Thrust angle: the direction the rear axle points relative to vehicle centerline. If wrong, the vehicle tracks crooked even with front wheels set correctly.
- Relationship: caster, camber and SAI interact — changing one can nudge others. Toe is the easiest to change and the most common adjustment.

3) Why and when you must adjust geometry
- Symptoms: vehicle pulls left/right, steering wheel off‑center at straight ahead, uneven tire wear (inner/outer edges), wandering/high steering effort, after collision or after replacing suspension/steering parts, after changing ride height, or new springs/axles installed.
- After repairs: replacing tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm, spring hangers, U‑bolts, or hitting a curb — always re‑check alignment.

4) Tools & equipment (minimum)
- Hino workshop manual (essential for exact specs, shim locations and torque values).
- Wheel chocks, jack(s) and axle stands or lift.
- Torque wrench and metric/socket set.
- Alignment rack or turn plates and a reliable toe/camber gauge (or stringline and tape if no rack).
- Camber/caster gauge or digital inclinometer, toe plates, tape measure.
- Tie rod spanner, adjustable wrench, penetrating oil.
- Dial indicator (for wheel runout), feeler gauges, shop chalk/marker.
- Hammer and drift for shims, pry bars, shim pack kit.
- Replacement shims, bushings, locknuts, and safety gear (gloves, eye protection).

5) Pre‑alignment checks (do not skip)
- Check and record tire size and pressures; inflate to OEM spec.
- Check wheel bearings for play and correct preload.
- Measure wheel runout and correct or note for compensation.
- Inspect and replace worn steering components: tie rod ends, drag link, kingpin/ball joints, idler arm, pitman arm, steering gear play. Any play will move during alignment and ruin results.
- Inspect spring eyes and shackles; replace worn bushings; check U‑bolt tightness and axle seating.
- Repair any bent parts (axle, knuckle) — measuring and adjusting won't fix bends.
- Check ride height and load: align with vehicle at normal operating load or as manual prescribes.
- Center the steering wheel (loosen steering column clamp and center gear if necessary) and mark steering wheel position.

6) Measurement basics (how to measure each angle)
- Camber: use camber gauge against wheel face or hub — read directly. Alternatively use an inclinometer on rotor/hub.
- Caster (solid axle): with caster gauge that references steering axis, or method using turning angles: lock wheels straight, measure camber; turn wheels 20° left and right and use difference to calculate caster (manufacturer method). Caster is trickier on solid axles — follow manual’s recommended tool/method.
- Toe: with an alignment rack or stringline — measure distance between front and rear of rims at hub height; difference = total toe. Alternatively use toe plates and tape measures across the rim flange or wheel edge.
- Thrust angle: centerline of rear axle measured vs centerline of chassis; measure distances and calculate offset.
- Record initial readings before doing anything.

7) Adjustment procedures — step‑by‑step (typical workflow)
Note: Hino trucks normally adjust toe with the tie rod; caster/camber adjustments are achieved by shims or eccentric bushings where the spring or axle mounts to the chassis. The exact shim locations and direction are model specific — consult Hino workshop manual for true step‑by‑step and shim orientation.

A. Safety & setup
1. Park on level surface or lift. Chock rear wheels. Lift front so wheels can turn freely if using turn plates; otherwise use alignment rack. Support chassis with stands.
2. Confirm tires: size and pressure equalized. Remove wheel covers if they obstruct measurement.

B. Center steering wheel
1. With wheels straight and vehicle on ground, adjust steering gearbox centering so steering wheel is straight (or adjust tie rods equally later while watching wheel).
2. Lock steering wheel position with steering column clamp or note wheel marks.

C. Measure & record initial readings (toe, camber, caster, ride height, thrust angle).

D. Toe adjustment (most common, first to set)
1. Loosen tie‑rod locknuts (both sides if front center link or adjusting sleeve).
2. Turn the tie‑rod sleeve to lengthen/shorten until total toe is within spec. Turn both ends equally if you need to keep steering wheel centered: when you lengthen one side and shorten the other, you change steering wheel centering.
3. Recheck toe after each small change; keep adjustments small and remeasure both sides.
4. Torque the locknuts to spec and re‑check toe.

E. Caster & camber adjustment (if adjustable on your chassis)
1. Determine adjustment method per manual:
- Spring pad shims: add/remove shims between axle pad and spring seat to tilt axle fore/aft (alters caster).
- Eccentric spring eyes/bushings: rotate eccentric to change caster.
- Axle shims or knuckle shims: some models use shims at knuckle mounting.
2. To increase positive caster (top moves rearward): follow OEM direction (often adding shim to front pad or removing at rear) — exact side matters; consult manual.
3. Make small changes (one shim at a time), then torque clamp bolts to spec and recheck camber/caster.
4. If shimming changes toe, re‑set toe after caster/camber are finalized.

F. Thrust angle / rear alignment
1. Check rear axle alignment and adjust rear axle locating bolts/shims if required.
2. Thrust wrong = vehicle tracks crooked even with front aligned.

G. Final checks
1. Torque all steering and suspension fasteners to spec.
2. Recheck and record final toe, camber, caster, thrust angle.
3. Road test at low speed: check straight driving, steering returnability and wheel center. Re‑check after 50–100 km and retorque U‑bolts and fasteners.

8) Specifics beginners must watch for / common things that go wrong
- Worn parts causing rework: adjust geometry with new components only. If tie rods or ball joints have free play, readings will be meaningless.
- Not using correct ride height/load: alignment on a jacked vehicle or with incorrect load gives wrong results.
- Steering wheel off‑center: if you adjust only one tie rod, the wheel can end up off‑center — adjust both ends equally or use the steering gearbox centering method.
- Over‑tightening bushings: some shims/bushings are preloaded; overtightening can bind the spring and change geometry during road use. Torque to spec.
- Missing bent parts: straightening vs replacing — a bent axle or knuckle will not align correctly.
- Incorrect shim orientation: shims must go in correct position to change caster the intended way — wrong placement can make things worse.
- Measuring errors: not accounting for wheel runout, tire wear, different tires/wheels, or using non‑parallel measuring surfaces.
- Ignoring wheel bearing play: play will change geometry as soon as wheel is under load.
- Neglecting safety: loose U‑bolts can let the axle shift; always torque to spec.

9) Troubleshooting common scenarios
- Vehicle pulls right, steering wheel centered: check rear thrust and rear axle alignment. Check tire pressure and front toe.
- Steering wheel off‑center but vehicle tracks straight: toe set but steering wheel not centered — adjust tie‑rod ends equally (not only one side).
- Inner shoulder wear on both front tires: too much toe‑in or incorrect camber. Check toe first.
- Rapid feathering/edge wear only on one front tire: camber or bearing/worn knuckle at that wheel.
- Heavy steering or poor return: insufficient positive caster, worn kingpins/ball joints, or enlarged steering stops.

10) Final notes and safe practice
- Always follow the Hino workshop manual for exact alignment target values, shim kit part numbers, and torque specs. The manual includes illustrations of where to put shims for caster/camber changes.
- Make one change at a time and record results.
- Replace worn parts; you cannot align a vehicle reliably with worn components.
- After any alignment, perform a careful road test and recheck crucial fasteners.

Typical example target ranges (examples only — use OEM values)
- Total toe: often near 0 to slight toe‑in (e.g., 0–6 mm total) for medium‑duty trucks, but check Hino spec.
- Caster: positive caster is typical; exact degrees vary.
- Camber: close to 0°, small negative/positive allowed depending on model.

Summary checklist before leaving the workshop
- Tires correct and equal pressure
- No play in steering or wheel bearings
- Steering wheel centered
- Toe set to spec
- Caster/camber set per manual
- All fasteners torqued to spec
- Road test and recheck after short run

You asked for a how‑to and all component descriptions — this gives you the theory, the parts, the typical process, common faults and safety. For exact shim positions, direction (which shim goes front vs rear to change caster) and torque values, use the Hino N‑series workshop manual for your specific model year and axle configuration.
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