Tools & consumables needed
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, breaker bar, torque wrench (wide range).
- Impact wrench (optional).
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (0.01 mm resolution).
- Bearing race driver / press and arbor set.
- Bearing puller / slide hammer.
- Pinion depth gauge (or depth micrometer and reference mandrel) OR Hino pinion depth tool.
- Micrometer/feeler gauges.
- Shim spreader or pry bar and scale.
- Gear marking compound (Prussian blue or commercial gear paint).
- Seal driver, drift set, punch set.
- Hub/axle puller (if required).
- Shop press (or hydraulic press) for bearings.
- Clean solvent, rags, assembly lube, hypoid gear oil.
- New ring & pinion set (if changing ratio), bearings, races, pinion crush sleeve or pinion shims as required, carrier shims, oil seals, carrier bolts (often single‑use), locktight.
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, jack stands, wheel chocks.

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels, set parking brake. Support the vehicle securely on jack stands rated for the vehicle — never rely on a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear of springy components.
- Clean work area to avoid contamination of gears and bearings.
- Use correct lifting methods for heavy components (ring gear/carrier/pinion can be heavy).
- Dispose of used oil and parts per local regulations.

Overview of procedure
This covers setting up ring & pinion gear mesh/backlash and pinion bearing preload when assembling/adjusting a differential (typical when installing a different gear ratio or rebuilding a final drive). Exact torque, backlash, and pinion depth specs vary by model — always confirm Hino workshop manual values for the N04C chassis/axle. The steps below explain how to use the tools and what to watch for.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation and removal
- Drain differential oil.
- Remove drive flange, axle shafts or half shafts, hub assemblies as required to access the carrier.
- Remove carrier cover and set aside gasket/clean mating surfaces.
- Mark relative positions of carrier, bearing caps (if used) and locking tabs for reassembly orientation.
- Remove carrier assembly (ring gear and carrier) and pinion assembly. Note and keep track of shims and side abutments. Clean all parts.

2) Inspect parts / replace consumables
- Inspect ring & pinion for wear or damage. If changing ratio, fit the new ring & pinion set (always replace the matched set).
- Replace pinion and carrier bearings and races if worn. Replace pinion crush sleeve (if used) or pinion shim kit per service manual. Replace carrier shims if damaged. Replace oil seals and carrier bolts if single‑use.

3) Fit ring gear to carrier
- If installing new ring gear onto the carrier, clean and use proper bolts and torque sequence. Apply Loctite if specified. Torque bolts to Hino spec.

4) Set pinion depth (critical)
- Install the pinion with the inner bearing and race. Use the pinion depth gauge or the Hino special tool to set pinion depth relative to the ring gear. If using shims, select the shim thickness that achieves the specified pinion depth.
- How the tool is used: the pinion depth gauge references the pinion flange and measures distance to a reference point on the ring gear mounting face. The measured depth is compared to spec; adjust with shims under pinion bearing or use crush sleeve technique as specified by Hino.
- Tighten pinion nut/temporary nut to hold assembly but do not final‑torque until preload is set.
- Install outer pinion bearing and race as needed.

5) Set pinion bearing preload
- For crush sleeve designs: tighten the pinion nut to compress the crush sleeve until specified rotational preload is achieved (measured as the torque to rotate the pinion using a beam or electronic torque wrench attached to the pinion flange). The Hino manual gives the target rotational torque (measure after seating and cooling as instructed).
- For shimmed pinion bearings: adjust shim thickness under the inner race until the correct preload (axial endplay) is achieved, then secure the pinion nut/retainer per manual.
- How the tool is used: use a low‑range torque wrench or dial on the pinion flange to measure the breakaway torque (rotation torque). Adjust shim/crush sleeve until the measured rotational torque matches OEM spec.

6) Install carrier with ring gear (initial set)
- Install bearings on carrier if removed. Place carrier in housing with initial carrier shims chosen to approximate centerline (refer to removed shim sizes; start with same total shim thickness or OEM starting value).
- Temporarily install bearing caps and torque to spec (or snug enough for dialing). Install a dial indicator with its tip on a tooth of the ring gear to measure backlash. The indicator’s base should be rigidly attached to the housing.

7) Measure backlash and adjust
- Rotate pinion slowly and observe the dial indicator while rotating through one or two revolutions. Backlash is the maximum movement measured.
- Adjust carrier shims to move the carrier laterally: adding shim to the side toward the ring gear moves the ring away; removing shim moves it closer. Typical method: change shim thickness on the side you want to move. Make incremental changes (0.05 mm steps) and remeasure until you achieve the specified backlash.
- Example: target backlash for many medium duty differentials is around 0.10–0.20 mm; but confirm Hino spec for exact value.

8) Check gear tooth contact pattern
- With backlash set, apply a thin layer of gear marking compound on several teeth of the ring gear.
- Rotate the pinion several full turns in the drive direction to create a contact pattern.
- Inspect pattern: it should be centered on the tooth surface (not too close to the toe, heel, root, or face). If the pattern is too deep toward toe/heel or face/root:
- Move pinion deeper (increase pinion depth) to move contact toward face.
- Move pinion out (reduce depth) to move toward root.
- Move carrier laterally (change shim) to move pattern toe/heel.
- Make small adjustments (shim changes, pinion shim/adjustment) and repeat marking until pattern is correct.

9) Final torque & assembly
- Once pattern and backlash are correct, tighten carrier bearing caps to final torque in the correct sequence. Use new bolts if required. Use thread locker if specified.
- Recheck backlash and contact pattern after final torquing — re‑adjust if necessary.
- Install seals, drive flange, axle shafts, and any removed components. Refill differential with correct grade and quantity of hypoid gear oil.

10) Break‑in and recheck
- After reassembly, run vehicle under light load for a short period and then recheck carrier bolt torque, pinion preload, and backlash after initial run‑in per Hino instructions (many manufacturers require rechecking after a few hundred km).
- Check for leaks and noisy operation.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing bearings/races that are worn — always replace when in doubt. Worn races change measurement accuracy.
- Skipping pinion depth setup — leads to wrong contact pattern and premature wear. Use the proper pinion depth tool; do not guess.
- Over‑tightening pinion nut (crush sleeve) — can over‑preload bearings and cause failure. Measure rotation torque carefully and stop at spec.
- Incorrect backlash — too tight causes noise and heat; too loose causes chattering and broken teeth. Make incremental shim changes and measure after each change.
- Not using gear marking compound or misreading pattern — interpret patterns in both drive and coast directions if specified. Only small, centered patterns are acceptable.
- Reusing single‑use fasteners — replace as required.
- Contaminated gears/bearings — keep everything clean and lubricated with assembly lube when dry assembling.
- Forgetting to recheck after final torque and initial run‑in.

Replacement parts usually required when changing gear ratio or rebuilding
- Matched ring & pinion gear set (must be matched)
- New pinion and carrier bearings and races
- Pinion crush sleeve or pinion shims (as used)
- Carrier shims (as needed)
- Oil seals and gaskets
- Carrier bolts (if single‑use)
- Gear oil

Final notes
- Exact specifications (pinion depth, backlash, pinion preload, torques) for the Hino N04C vehicle axle must be taken from the Hino service manual for the vehicle/axle model — follow those specs exactly.
- If you do not have the special Hino pinion depth tool or torque/preload targets, do not guess — wrong setup will destroy the gearset quickly. Use a reputable shop manual or OEM data.

Done.
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N04C Engine being started on Bench for a customer. plenty of Engines 0771250250

How To Get A Hino Out Of Limp Mode Do not duplicate anything seen in this video, if you decide to do so, it's at your own risk”

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Tools & consumables needed
- Heavy‑duty truck wheel balancer (truck/medium‑duty wheel balancer with appropriate adapters: cones, spacers, mandrel, quick nut). If available, a road‑force balancer is preferred for trucks.
- Wheel lift or vehicle hoist (drive‑on lift or floor jack rated for axle load) and properly rated jack stands.
- Wheel chocks.
- Impact wrench and breaker bar / lug wrench; torque wrench capable of required wheel nut torque.
- Tire machine and bead breaker (if removing tires from rim).
- Air compressor, tire inflator, and accurate pressure gauge.
- Valve core tool and replacement valve stems/cores.
- Wire brush / cleaner and rags / brake cleaner for hub and rim faces.
- Wheel weights (appropriate heavy‑duty clip‑on and/or adhesive weights for truck rims), safety glasses and gloves.
- Dial caliper or tape measure (rim width, diameter) or use balancer measuring bar.
- Hammer, pry bar (for clip weights), pick or scraper (to remove old adhesive weights).
- Replacement parts as required: wheel weights, valve stems, wheel studs/nuts, possibly replacement rim or tire if damaged.
- Balancer calibration tools (if required by machine).

Safety precautions
- Work on level surface. Chock remaining wheels. Use rated jack/stands or lift. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep hands clear of rotating parts.
- Disconnect vehicle power if required when using lifts or balancer in workshop with live vehicle components nearby.
- Secure the wheel to the balancer spindle per machine instructions. Do not exceed balancer max rpm.
- Follow machine lockout/maintenance and manufacturer's calibration intervals.
- When using impact tools, avoid over‑torqueing—finish critical torque with a calibrated torque wrench.
- Do not lubricate studs/nuts unless manufacturer prescribes it—lubrication changes torque values.
- Dispose of lead weights and tire waste per local regulations.

Step‑by‑step procedure (off‑vehicle wheel balance — preferred)
1. Prepare vehicle and wheel
- Park on level surface, chock wheels, lift axle with rated jack or hoist, support with stands.
- Remove wheel nuts and wheel. Inspect tire and rim for damage (bubbles, separations, bent lips, cracks).
- Deflate tire slightly if needed to move it off; mark valve stem location relative to tire heavy spot if doing match‑mounting.

2. Inspect and clean
- Clean hub pilot surface and rim mounting face with wire brush / cleaner. Dirt/corrosion causes runout and false imbalance readings.
- Check wheel studs for damage or tension irregularities; replace any damaged studs/nuts.
- Inspect valve stem — replace if cracked or leaking.

3. Remove tire from rim if required (recommended for accurate balance / if weights cannot be applied)
- Use tire machine and bead breaker following machine instructions.
- Inspect tire carcass and bead for separations or damage. Replace tire if damaged.

4. Mount wheel on balancer
- Select appropriate adapter/cone for the wheel bore (hub‑centric fit preferred). For hub‑piloted wheels, use cone that centers on hub bore. For lug‑piloted, use adapter that clamps on the hub face per balancer manual.
- Slide wheel onto balancer shaft, place correct spacer if required, and secure with quick nut/locking piece. Ensure wheel is fully seated and centered before tightening.
- Enter wheel parameters into balancer: rim diameter, rim width, and offset (or use measuring bar). Use the exact dimensions; incorrect inputs produce wrong weight placement.

5. Spin and read imbalance
- Start balancer spin cycle. Let it stop and read static/dynamic imbalance values.
- Balancer will indicate amount of weight and position (inside/outside, or clock positions).
- If using road‑force, follow its prompts for load measurement and recommended correction.

6. Apply correction weights
- Clean rim flange surface where weights will attach. For clip‑on weights, clip onto rim flange at indicated position (opposite heavy spot). For adhesive internal weights, use correct adhesive pads and apply inside rim at indicated location; ensure surface is dry and clean.
- Use correct weight material/size to avoid overhang or interference with dual wheel clearances.

7. Re‑spin and verify
- Re‑spin. If within allowable spec (typically small grams/ounces per wheel), proceed. If still out, re‑clean mounting surfaces, check for bent rim, tire defect, or incorrect dimension entry.
- For dual rear wheels, balance both wheels individually and then balance the inner/outer set on the axle as a pair if required.

8. Reinstall wheel on vehicle
- Clean hub and wheel face again. Mount wheel to hub, hand‑start nuts.
- Torque lug nuts in manufacturer recommended sequence to Hino wheel nut torque spec (consult Hino Workshop Manual for exact value). Use torque wrench to final torque.
- Lower vehicle and re‑check torque after first road miles per manual.

On‑vehicle (static) balancing — when off‑vehicle is not possible
- Only use a calibrated on‑vehicle balancer device or spin the wheel on the hub (some shops use mobile balancers). Follow device instructions carefully. On‑vehicle methods are less accurate if hub runout or bearings are worn.

How the balancer/tool is used — practical notes
- Cones/adapters center the wheel on the balancer spindle to replicate hub centering. Wrong cone means off‑center reading.
- The quick nut pulls the wheel tight against the adapter; tighten until wheel is firmly seated but do not damage the rim.
- Balancer sensors measure imbalance by comparing acceleration/centrifugal forces during spin; the unit converts readings to weight amount and location.
- Enter exact rim width and diameter — a 0.5" error shifts weight placement a lot.
- For single plane (static) imbalance only one weight position is used (usually for small passenger wheels). Truck wheels require dynamic balancing (inside and outside or dual‑plane) to control both radial and lateral imbalance.

Common pitfalls and troubleshooting
- Dirty or corroded hub or wheel mating surfaces — causes erroneous imbalance readings and reoccurring vibration. Clean thoroughly.
- Bent rim or deformed flange — cannot be corrected by balancing; replace rim.
- Tire internal separation or belt damage — balancing will not cure vibration; replace tire.
- Incorrect adapter/cone selection — produces false readings.
- Wrong wheel dimension inputs — causes misplacement of weights.
- Using wrong weight type (clip vs adhesive) or improperly installed weights — weights can fall off or interfere with dual wheels.
- Over‑torquing or lubricating studs changes torque behavior — follow Hino manual: some OEMs require dry threads.
- Worn wheel bearings, hub runout, suspension/steering defects — these cause vibrations indistinguishable from imbalance. Diagnose bearings and suspension first if imbalance persists after correct balancing.
- Failing to replace valve stems or leaking cores can show as periodic imbalance or slow air loss.
- For dual wheels: mixing different sized or mismatched tires on the same axle increases vibration.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Wheel weights (clip‑on and/or adhesive pads).
- Valve stems and cores (replace when tires removed).
- Wheel studs and lug nuts if damaged or stretched.
- Rims or tires if bent, cracked, or internally damaged.
- Balancer adapters/cones/spacers if worn or missing.

Acceptable imbalance tolerance and verification
- Follow the vehicle or tire manufacturer’s allowable vibration/tolerance limits; truck tolerances are larger than passenger cars but still critical for driver comfort and component life.
- After balancing and reinstallation, road test at various speeds to confirm vibration cured. Re‑check wheel nut torque after 50–100 km.

Final notes (concise)
- Always replicate hub centering on the balancer. Clean mounting surfaces and inspect for damage before balancing. Balance each wheel properly (dynamic/dual plane for truck wheels). Replace any damaged studs/valves and use correct weights. If vibration persists after correct balancing, inspect bearings, hubs, and driveline components.
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