Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

- Quick overview
- You want to find, test and if needed replace a relay on a Holden Colorado / Isuzu Rodeo (same basic platform). Relays are small electromechanical switches that control higher current circuits (fuel pump, starter, fans, horns, lights). Procedure below assumes a 12 V system and that you are a beginner with basic tools.

- Safety first
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before pulling relays or working on wiring to avoid shorts and accidental engine cranking.
- Work on a flat, stable surface, engine off and cool, parking brake on.
- Wear eye protection and gloves if available.

- Tools you probably already have (detailed use)
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Use to remove small plastic trim clips and pry fuse box covers. Keep blade size matched to screw/clip to avoid damage.
- Use gentle leverage; use a panel clip tool if plastic trim is brittle.
- Phillips-head screwdriver
- Use for any screws securing dash panels or fuse/relay box covers.
- Socket wrench with common sockets (8mm, 10mm usually)
- Use to remove battery terminal clamp (usually 10 mm) and any bolts holding fuse/relay boxes or mounting brackets.
- Fit the correct socket fully on the nut to avoid stripping. Turn counterclockwise to loosen.
- Needle-nose pliers
- Use to grip and pull small connectors or to gently lever relays out of their sockets.
- Avoid twisting wiring; pull on the plastic connector body, not the wires.
- Adjustable wrench
- Backup to the socket wrench for battery terminal nuts or odd-sized bolts.
- Work light or flashlight
- Use to see under dash and in engine bay fuse/relay boxes. Position so you can see relay pin markings.
- Small rag and contact cleaner (electrical parts cleaner)
- Use to clean dirty relay sockets and relay pins before testing and fitting replacements.
- Gloves (optional)
- Protect hands from grime and sharp edges.

- Recommended extra tools (why they help)
- Multimeter (digital)
- Why required: essential for testing coil continuity, checking for 12 V at the relay socket, and measuring switched output. Cheaper but capable models are fine.
- How to use: set to DC voltage to check for battery/ignition 12 V at relay coil terminal; set to ohms/continuity to check coil resistance or relay switch continuity. Probe sockets carefully.
- Relay puller or small plastic pry tool
- Why required: removes relays without bending pins or breaking plastic. Metal pliers can damage relay bodies.
- Jumper wires with insulated clips (or a fused 12 V test lead)
- Why required: quick bench or in-socket tests and to temporarily energize a relay coil for a functional test. Always fuse the test lead to avoid shorts.
- Test light (optional)
- Why helpful: quick check for presence of 12 V at socket pins if you don’t have a multimeter.
- Replacement relay (same part number / specifications)
- Why required: buses sometimes have identical relays you can swap; if a relay is bad it must be replaced with a unit with the same coil voltage, pin layout and amp rating.
- Relay socket/pigtail repair kit (if socket is corroded)
- Why required: a burned or melted socket must be replaced. Kits include wires and a new connector.

- Locate the relay
- Check the fuse/relay boxes in the engine bay (primary location) and under the dash (secondary). The main engine bay box often has a plastic cover with a fuse/relay diagram.
- Look at the underside of the fuse box cover or the owner’s manual for a diagram showing which relay controls what (fuel pump, fan, starter, etc.).
- Identify the specific relay by function or part number printed on the relay. If unsure, find the relay box diagram and match positions.

- Visual inspection before testing
- With battery connected or after noting you’ll disconnect: inspect relay for cracks, melted plastic or burn marks.
- Inspect relay socket for corrosion, blackening or melted plastic—this can mean a poor contact or high resistance that needs socket replacement.
- Check related fuses for the circuit; a blown fuse indicates a problem that may not be the relay alone.

- Basic swap test (fastest beginner method)
- Locate another identical relay in the same box (same part number and same pin count).
- With ignition off, pull the suspect relay straight out (use relay puller or plastic pry) and swap it with the identical relay.
- Reconnect battery and test the circuit. If the problem moves with the relay, the relay is faulty; if it stays in the same circuit, the fault is elsewhere (wiring, fuse, load).
- After testing, re-seat the relays and restore everything.

- How to safely remove a relay
- Disconnect negative battery terminal first.
- Gently rock the relay back and forth while pulling straight up. Use needle-nose pliers on the relay body if needed, protecting plastic with cloth.
- Note orientation and numbering on relay; take a photo if uncertain.

- Bench testing a relay with a multimeter (detailed)
- Identify coil pins and switch pins from relay diagram printed on the relay (usually 85/86 are coil, 30/87 are switched contacts).
- Coil test:
- Set multimeter to ohms/continuity.
- Measure resistance across coil pins (85/86). Typical values for 12 V automotive relays are ~50–200 ohms; very high or infinite means open coil (bad).
- Energize test (bench):
- Using a fused 12 V source or battery and jumper leads, briefly apply 12 V to coil pins (positive to 86, negative to 85).
- Listen for an audible "click"—this indicates the coil pulls the switch.
- While energized, measure continuity (or low resistance) across the switched pins (30 to 87). With coil de-energized the switch should be open (no continuity) for a normally-open relay.
- Do not leave coil energized long without proper current limiting; bench tests should be brief.

- In-socket testing with multimeter (how to)
- Reconnect battery if disconnected for this test and be careful of shorting terminals.
- Backprobe the relay socket (corner of connector) to measure coil supply lines. Set multimeter to DC volts.
- With ignition on or circuit activated, check for 12 V on the coil feed pin. If coil feed is present but coil doesn’t energize, relay may be bad.
- If coil energizes but switched output pin doesn’t show battery voltage when relay is energized, the internal contacts are bad or socket/wiring is faulty.

- Replacing the relay (step summary)
- Buy identical relay: match part number, coil voltage (12 V), pin configuration and current rating. OEM part numbers from the fuse box cover or existing relay are best; aftermarket equivalents are usually fine if specs match.
- Install new relay in same orientation and press fully into socket.
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Test the circuit to confirm proper operation.

- When replacement part is required and what to buy
- Replace relay when:
- Relay fails bench test (no coil continuity, no click, no switched continuity when energized).
- Swap test shows fault moves with the relay.
- Relay shows physical damage (melted/charred).
- What to buy:
- Exact match relay by OEM part number. If part number not available, buy a 12 V automotive relay with same pin layout (usually 4 or 5 pins), same or higher amperage rating, and the correct normally-open/normally-closed configuration.
- Replace accompanying blown fuses with identical amp rating.
- Replace damaged relay sockets/pigtails—buy a compatible socket and short pigtail harness for the relay type.

- Socket/wiring repair (when needed)
- If socket is melted or pins corroded, replacing the relay alone will not fix connection problems. Replace the socket/pigtail:
- Cut out the old connector, crimp or solder the new pigtail, insulate with heat-shrink, and reconnect to the original wiring.
- If you are not confident soldering/crimping, get a simple pre-made pigtail harness specific to the relay type.
- Ensure correct pin mapping when installing new socket.

- Final checks and test
- Verify related fuses are good and reinstalled.
- Start vehicle or activate the circuit and confirm correct operation.
- Recheck for heat or burning smell after a few minutes of operation indicating poor contact or incorrect part.
- If the new relay fails or fuses blow repeatedly, stop — issue may be downstream (shorted motor, bad wiring) and needs further diagnosis.

- Troubleshooting tips
- If relay clicks but load doesn’t operate, check fuse and wiring to the load.
- If no click and no 12 V at coil when circuit should be active, check the control side (ignition switch, ECU, switches).
- Swap with same-part relay from non-critical circuit to narrow down relay vs wiring fault.

- Quick parts list to have available
- Replacement relay (OEM or matching specs)
- Spare fuse(s) of correct amp rating
- Relay socket/pigtail repair kit (if socket damaged)
- Contact cleaner and dielectric grease (small amount on relay pins to prevent corrosion)
- Multimeter and a set of jumper leads (fused for safety)

- Final safety reminder
- Never bridge terminals on fuses or use un-fused jumper wires across battery without protection. Shorting battery causes sparks, burns and possible fire.
- If wiring or sockets are badly burnt, consider professional help.

That covers locating, testing and replacing relays on a Holden Colorado/Rodeo with beginner-level tools and what parts you might need.
rteeqp73

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