Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Below is a beginner-friendly, practical guide to the cooling-fan system on a Holden Colorado / Rodeo-type vehicle. It explains what every component does (with simple analogies), why fans fail, how the whole system works, and step-by-step diagnostics and repair options for the two common fan types used on these models (electric fan assemblies and belt-driven viscous/clutch fans). Read safety notes first and follow them.

SAFETY FIRST
- Let the engine cool completely before touching hoses, radiator, or fans. Hot coolant and steam can cause severe burns.
- The electric cooling fan can turn on with the ignition off or while you’re working if A/C is on or the ECU commands it — always disconnect the negative battery cable before doing electrical work.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Keep fingers and tools away from spinning fans.
- If you test a fan with direct battery power, use a fused jumper (20–30 A fuse) to protect wiring and the battery.
- If you’re unsure, have a qualified mechanic handle it.

What the cooling-fan system does (simple theory)
- Purpose: keep airflow through the radiator so the engine’s coolant can dump heat into the air. The fan makes airflow when the vehicle is stopped or moving slowly.
- Analogy: think of the radiator like a radiator in a house and the fan like a box fan that blows air through the radiator fins when the room gets too hot.
- The cooling system circulates coolant (water + antifreeze) with the water pump; the thermostat controls coolant flow to the radiator; radiator and condenser exchange heat; fans increase airflow when needed. Fans can be controlled by mechanical viscous coupling or electrically (motor + relays + sensors).

Key components — detailed descriptions (and analogies)
- Radiator: aluminum core that transfers heat from hot coolant to air. Fins increase surface area like the slatted fins of a heater.
- Radiator cap / overflow bottle: keeps system pressurized to raise boiling point; overflow collects excess coolant when hot.
- Water pump: belt-driven or electric pump that circulates coolant through engine and radiator — like a heart pumping blood.
- Thermostat: a valve that stays closed until engine reaches operating temperature, then opens to allow coolant to flow to the radiator. Like a temperature-triggered gate.
- Fan(s): either electric fans (one or two fans driven by electric motors) or a mechanical (belt-driven) fan with a viscous clutch. Fans pull or push air through the radiator.
- Fan shroud: a plastic housing that focuses airflow through the radiator, improving fan efficiency — like a funnel for air.
- Electric fan motor(s): DC motors that spin the fan blades; controlled by relays/PWM and the engine control unit (ECU).
- Fan relay(s): heavy-duty switches controlled by ECU or a thermal switch; they allow a low-current control circuit to switch high current to the fan motor.
- Fan fuse / circuit breaker: protects the fan circuit from short or overload.
- Fan control module / fan resistor / PWM driver: some vehicles use a module to vary fan speed; controlled by ECU or dedicated module.
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor / thermostat sensor: measures coolant temp and sends a signal to ECU; the ECU uses this to decide when to run the fan.
- A/C pressure switch & A/C request signal: when the A/C is on, the system typically forces the fan on to help condense refrigerant — the ECU or a dedicated relay sees this and runs the fan as needed.
- Wiring harness and connectors: supply power and ground and carry control signals. Corrosion or damaged wires will prevent operation.
- Viscous (visco) fan clutch: on older models the fan is bolted to a visco clutch mounted to the water pump. The clutch contains silicone fluid that heats and either locks the fan to the shaft or allows slippage. Acts like an automatic coupling: at low speeds or high temp it locks-up; at cruise it slips to save fuel/noise.
- ECU/PCM: the vehicle’s brain that reads temp and A/C signals and commands fan relays or PWM output.

How the system works (stepwise)
- Cold start: thermostat closed; coolant stays in engine to warm fast; fans are usually off.
- Warm-up: thermostat opens at operating temp (~85–95°C typical) letting coolant flow to the radiator; ECU monitors ECT.
- Demand: if coolant temperature rises above threshold or A/C is on, the ECU energizes fan relay(s) (or a dedicated thermal switch does it) to apply battery power to fan motor(s). Some systems use two-stage relays: low stage (single fan or low speed) and high stage (both fans or high speed).
- Cooling: fans force air through radiator; heat transfers from coolant to air and coolant temp drops.
- Shutdown: when temp falls below threshold, ECU de-energizes relays, fans stop.

Common failure modes and symptoms
- Fan won’t run at all: dead fan motor, bad fuse, bad relay, open circuit, bad ground, ECU not commanding, bad temp sensor.
Symptoms: engine overheats in traffic but cools when moving; A/C performance poor when idling.
- Fan runs all the time: stuck relay, shorted control circuit, faulty temp sensor, stuck-on A/C request. Symptoms: fan noise constantly, battery drain at long idle, lower fuel economy, noisy operation.
- Intermittent operation: wiring corrosion, loose connector, failing relay, intermittent motor brushes.
- Weak airflow or slow spin: worn fan motor brushes, failing bearings, damaged blades, low voltage supply, high resistance in wiring.
- Visco clutch problems: seized clutch (fan always engaged — noisy and drops fuel economy), worn clutch (fan not engaging — overheats at idle), leaking fluid. Symptoms: overheating at idle, driveability issues, noticeable fan noise or flutter.
- Shroud damage: reduced cooling efficiency; possible fan-blade contact causing noise/damage.

Tools & materials you’ll need (basic)
- Basic hand tools: sockets and ratchet set (including 8–14 mm), screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (recommended for reassembly).
- Multimeter (volts/ohms) for electrical checks.
- Test light or fused jumper wire (20–30 A fuse) to power fan for testing.
- Scan tool (optional but very helpful) to read engine temperature, see fan command, or activate fan output.
- Replacement parts (fan assembly or fan motor, relays, fuses, connectors, viscous fan/clutch, shroud if required).
- Penetrating oil for frozen bolts, safety gloves, eye protection.
- Service manual for torque specs, wiring diagrams and location of relays/fuses.

Diagnosis — logical step-by-step (start simple)
1. Visual inspection
- Check fan blades for damage, shroud cracks, and clearance.
- Inspect wiring and connector(s) to fan(s) for corrosion, melted insulation, or loose pins.
- Check fuses related to fan circuits and A/C. Replace if blown and note if it blows again.
- If vehicle has a viscous fan, check fan free play and that clutch isn’t obviously leaking oil.

2. Check operation by condition
- Start engine and let it reach operating temperature (radiator fan may not run until warm). Turn A/C on full — that usually forces fans on. If fans run with A/C on but not when hot without A/C, it suggests a temp-sensing/control issue rather than motor failure.
- If unsafe to run engine in the engine bay, use a scan tool to command the fan on (if supported).

3. Direct test of electric fan motor (bench test)
- With battery disconnected, unplug fan connector. Using a fused jumper (20–30 A fuse in line), apply 12 V battery positive to the fan power terminal and ground to chassis. The fan should spin at full speed. If it does, motor is good — problem is in control circuit (relay/sensor/wiring). If it doesn’t spin, motor is bad.

4. Relay/fuse test
- Locate fan relay(s) in under-hood fuse/relay box. Swap with another identical relay (headlight or horn relay) to see if fan runs. Use a multimeter to confirm voltage at relay output when relay is energized. Check relay control pin getting 12 V when ECU should switch it on (or ground, depends on circuit).
- Check fuse continuity and power supply to relay with multimeter.

5. ECT sensor / control signal test
- Use scan tool or measure ECT sensor resistance/voltage to confirm sensor is reading accurately as engine warms. If ECU doesn’t see the temp rise, it won’t command fans.
- Some vehicles have a separate thermal switch near the radiator — check for correct operation (continuity when hot).

6. Wiring and ground checks
- Check continuity from fan connector to relay/fuse box. Check grounds for fan motor (clean, tight chassis ground).
- Wiggle harness while testing to find intermittent faults.

7. Viscous fan clutch tests
- With engine off and cool, try to spin the fan by hand: it should resist moderately. At high rpm (engine rev), a good clutch will lock up more. If it spins freely with no resistance or is seized, replace clutch.
- Listen for grinding or rattling, and look for oil leakage at clutch hub.

Repair / replacement — electric fan assembly (common on later models)
Note: steps are general. Small differences exist between model years — consult a manual for exact bolt sizes and torques.

A. Preparation
- Let engine cool.
- Disconnect negative battery cable.
- Remove any intake or intercooler ducting blocking access to the fan shroud.
- Unplug electrical connector to fan motor(s).

B. Remove fan/shroud assembly
- Support the fan shroud from below with a rag or have an assistant hold it (it’s awkward to remove).
- Remove mounting bolts/nuts that secure shroud to radiator or frame (top and bottom). Keep track of hardware.
- Carefully lift assembly out of engine bay (some assemblies come out top; others bottom-first). Be mindful of condenser lines and A/C piping clearance.

C. Replace fan or motor (if removable)
- Some fan assemblies allow you to remove the motor from the shroud (several small bolts); others are integrated, and the whole assembly is replaced.
- Transfer any required clips, spacers, or trim pieces to new assembly.

D. Reinstall
- Place shroud/fan back into position, secure bolts to proper torque.
- Reconnect fan electrical connector(s).
- Reinstall intake ducting.
- Reconnect negative battery.
- Start engine and test fan operation (use A/C on or induce temp trigger). If fan does not run, test as described above (relay/fuse/control).

Repair / replacement — viscous (clutched) fan (older models)
A. Preparation
- Let engine cool completely.
- Disconnect negative battery.
- Remove upper fan shroud or intake ducting to access fan.
- Loosen and remove the accessory drive belt (note belt routing).
- Support the fan assembly; remove the bolts that hold the fan clutch to the water-pump pulley flange (usually 6 bolts). Some are reverse-thread on some engines — check service manual.
- Remove clutch + fan as one assembly.

B. Replace clutch or whole fan
- If replacing only clutch, separate fan blade from clutch (careful for cracks) and transfer to new clutch.
- If the clutch seized to the water pump or bolts are stuck, use penetrating oil and appropriate tools. If bolts are corroded, heat may be required (take to a shop if unsure).

C. Reinstall
- Mount clutch to water pump flange and torque bolts to spec (consult manual). Too loose and it could come off; too tight may damage parts.
- Refit belt and adjust/verify tension.
- Reinstall shroud and any ducting.
- Reconnect battery and test fan action by starting engine and warming up; check engagement at idle and RPM.

Electrical troubleshooting tips (practical)
- If fan works when directly connected to battery but not when commanded: suspect relay, fuse, wiring, or control signal.
- If fan works only with A/C on: ECU or A/C request wiring is working, but temp-sensor path may be bad.
- If multiple fans are present and only one works: motor is bad or wiring/connector issue to that fan.
- Intermittent operation often caused by poor ground or corroded connector pins. Clean contacts with electrical contact cleaner and a small brush; use dielectric grease on reassembly.

Common nuts-and-bolts fixes
- Clean and tighten ground strap(s).
- Replace corroded fan connector; male/female pins often corrode and cause high resistance.
- Replace relay(s) and fuses as necessary.
- Replace fan motor or entire assembly if motor fails or bearing seized.
- Replace viscous clutch if slipping or seized.
- Replace faulty ECT sensor or thermal switch if it reads incorrectly.
- Repair/replace damaged wiring harness sections; solder and heat-shrink or use quality crimp connectors, then protect with loom.

Testing after repair
- With everything reassembled, start the engine and warm to operating temp. Verify fan(s) engage at expected temp or when A/C is on.
- Use scan tool if available to monitor coolant temperature and fan command for precise verification.
- Road-test in slow urban conditions to confirm no overheating at idle traffic.

Troubleshooting quick-reference table
- Overheats in traffic but OK at speed: fan not running (motor, relay, fuse, wiring, ECT).
- Fan runs constantly: stuck relay, ECU constantly commanding, temp sensor stuck high, wiring short to positive.
- Fan runs only with A/C on: temp-control circuit issue; check temp sensor/ECU input.
- Fan noisy / wobbling: broken blades, loose mounting, bent shroud or bad motor bearings.
- Viscous fan spins freely by hand: bad clutch (replace).

Maintenance tips to avoid future problems
- Inspect radiator fins and keep them clean from debris.
- Check fan connector for corrosion at regular intervals.
- Replace old relays and fuses proactively if they’re getting intermittent.
- Replace belts and keep proper tension; mis-tension can affect visco fan operation.
- Keep coolant fresh and system flushed per service schedule so temps remain within design range.

When to replace vs. repair
- If motor brushes or bearings are failing and the motor is serviceable, motor replacement might be possible. Often it’s easier and safer to replace the entire fan assembly.
- Viscous clutches are usually replaced as a unit (clutch + fan or clutch only depending on availability).
- If wiring or relay is the problem, repair/replace wiring and relays rather than fan motor.

If you need starter-level parts guidance: common replacements are complete electric fan assemblies, fan motors, fan relays, fan fuses/circuit breakers, viscous fan clutches. For exact part numbers and torque specs, consult the vehicle’s factory service manual or parts catalog for your exact model year and engine.

That covers the purpose, how it works, every main component, what goes wrong, and how to diagnose and replace either an electric fan assembly or a viscous fan clutch for a Holden Colorado / Rodeo. Follow the safety notes and consult a service manual for vehicle-specific torque numbers and diagrams.
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