Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools and supplies
- Basic hand tools: 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets, sockets (metric), extensions, combination wrenches, screwdriver set, pliers.
- Impact gun (optional) and breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 200 Nm).
- Transmission jack or low-profile floor jack with adapter and good blocks.
- Engine support bar or hoist (if you aren’t removing the engine).
- Snap-ring/circlip pliers (internal & external).
- Clutch spring compressor (or bench press and suitable adapters) for pack assembly.
- Press or arbor press and bearing/ seal drivers.
- Seal puller, pick set, gasket scraper, cleaning brushes.
- Calipers or micrometer (measure plate thickness).
- Clean parts trays, lint-free rags, solvent/degreaser.
- New transmission filter and pan gasket, new clutch friction plates and steel plates (clutch pack kit), pistons seals and O‑rings, any worn bearings/bushings, valve body gaskets/seals if disturbed.
- Correct automatic transmission fluid (ATF) for your model (check service manual; many Colorado/Rodeo require Dexron-type or specified ATF).
- Thread locker and RTV gasket maker (if required by manual).
- Safety: jack stands, wheel chocks, gloves, eye protection, shop manual with torque specs and component diagrams.

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels and disconnect the battery negative.
- Use a transmission jack and jack stands rated for the weight. Never support the vehicle only by a jack.
- Support engine with engine hoist/brace if transmission removal may shift engine.
- Clean, well-lit workspace. Keep solvents/ATF away from ignition sources.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points during lowering/lifting. Use gloves and eye protection.

Notes before starting
- “Automatic clutch” in an automatic transmission refers to the clutch packs (multi-plate friction and steel plates) and piston/seal assemblies. This procedure covers removal of the transmission, disassembly, replacement/inspection of clutch packs and seals, and reassembly.
- Always use the factory service manual for your model year Colorado/Rodeo for exact procedures, exploded views, torque values, and fluid type.
- Replace all friction plates in a pack as a set; replace seals and O-rings whenever the transmission is opened. Replace bearings/bushings if worn.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
1.1. Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, disconnect the negative battery terminal.
1.2. Raise vehicle and place on sturdy jack stands. Remove skid plates or splash shields as needed.
1.3. Remove wheels/drive axles as required to access transmission (model-dependent).

2) Drain fluid and remove torque converter/transfer components
2.1. Place drain pan, remove transmission pan bolt(s) to drain fluid (remove slowly to avoid spills). Remove pan, filter, and set aside.
2.2. Remove transmission cooler lines, electrical connectors, shift linkage, speed sensors, and any starter/engine-to-trans bellhousing components.
2.3. Support engine if needed. Use transmission jack under the trans and remove crossmember(s) and mount bolts.
2.4. Unbolt torque converter housing bellhousing bolts to engine (while the converter is supported by the trans). Carefully pry trans back a few millimeters until converter is clear of flywheel, then lower transmission with jack. NOTE: be ready to support converter - it may hang on input shaft.

How tool is used: The transmission jack supports weight and allows controlled lowering. Use a strap to secure the transmission to the jack tray. Remove the bellhousing bolts in a star pattern and slowly slide the trans rearward.

3) Separate case and strip valve body (if required)
3.1. Clean exterior of transmission to avoid contamination. Mark orientation and take photos for reassembly.
3.2. If your model requires gearbox splitting to access clutch packs, place trans on a clean bench on jack or stands.
3.3. Remove valve body bolts and drop the valve body (keep fasteners and make note of ball/valve locations). Remove valve body carefully — many small parts/springs exist. Place components on an organized parts tray.

Common tool use: Snap-ring pliers remove circlips that retain clutch drums or pistons. Use a torque wrench to correctly torque valve body bolts on reassembly.

4) Access clutch packs
4.1. Remove servo covers, retaining rings, pistons, and apply compressed air (briefly, carefully) to push out apply pistons if necessary — use caution and a plug to catch pistons.
4.2. Remove retaining snap rings and slide out drum assemblies to expose clutch packs.
4.3. Take photos and lay parts in order for correct reassembly. Measure clutch plates and steels with calipers. Compare to service limit in manual.

How tool is used: Snap-ring pliers compress the ring to remove it from its groove. A piston/compression tool can push pistons in or out without damaging seals.

5) Replace clutch plates, steels, seals, and pistons
5.1. Inspect drums, hub splines, piston surfaces for scoring, heat spots, or groove wear. Replace damaged drums or have them resurfaced/replaced.
5.2. Remove worn friction plates and steels. Clean grooves and splines of any varnish/debris.
5.3. Soak new friction plates in correct ATF for at least 30 minutes (some recommend overnight).
5.4. Replace piston seals and O‑rings with new parts from kit. Use assembly lube or fresh ATF to ease installation.
5.5. Assemble clutch pack in the exact order and orientation (friction-then-steel as required) onto the drum. Use a clutch spring compressor or arbor press to compress pack so the snap ring groove is reachable.
5.6. Install snap ring to retain the pack. Verify snap ring fully seated.

Tool notes: A clutch spring compressor is used to compress the pack so you can install the snap ring – compress slowly and evenly. Use a press only with proper adapters to avoid bending drums/pistons.

6) Replace bushings/bearings & seals
6.1. Inspect bushings for wear and replace as necessary. Use a seal driver to press new seals flush.
6.2. If installing new torque converter or reusing, inspect the pump drive splines and converter hub for wear. Fill torque converter with ATF before installing to avoid dry-start damage.

7) Reassembly of valve body & case
7.1. Clean mating surfaces. Replace pan gasket and filter. Install valve body with correct clearance and torque according to manual. Replace any dislodged check balls/valves correctly (very important).
7.2. Reinstall case bolts to spec and in correct sequence.

Torque use: Use torque wrench on bellhousing and pan bolts to factory values. Tighten valve body bolts in the sequence specified by the manual to avoid warping.

8) Install transmission, torque converter, and reattach
8.1. Lift trans with transmission jack and align input shaft to torque converter/housing. Rotate torque converter to line up splines and fully engage. You should feel it engage the pump; measure the engagement depth per manual (count bolt holes alignment or push until it seats).
8.2. Reinstall bellhousing bolts to engine, torque to spec. Reinstall crossmember and mount assembly.
8.3. Reconnect cooler lines, electrical connectors, shift linkage, speed sensors, and drive axles.

How to use torque converter fill technique: Pre-fill torque converter with ATF using a funnel; after bolting trans to engine leave dipstick tube off and add ATF until levels are near spec before starting.

9) Refill fluid, bleed/initialization, and test
9.1. Add correct type and quantity of ATF per manual. With engine cold/warm as instructed, cycle selector through all gears to distribute fluid and seating clutches. Some models require a scan tool to initialize transmission adaptive values or solenoid relearn — follow manual.
9.2. Check for leaks with engine idling and transmission in Park. Check fluid level and top to correct hot/cold level per spec.
9.3. Road test: take normal drives and verify proper shift points, no slipping, no noises. Recheck fluid level after first heat cycles.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Contamination: Dirt or solvent in clutch pack causes slipping/early failure. Keep everything clean and use lint-free rags.
- Wrong plate orientation/order: Always document and reassemble in the same order — take photos/label parts.
- Not replacing seals/pistons: Old seals leak or distort apply pressure → slipping. Replace seals when opened.
- Improper snap ring seating: If not fully seated, pack can shift and fail. Verify ring sits fully in groove with feeler or visual check.
- Incorrect torque on valve body or bellhousing bolts: causes warping or leaks — always use torque wrench and correct sequence.
- Not filling torque converter before install: causes the transmission pump to run dry on first start → damage. Pre-fill converter.
- Using the wrong ATF: causes improper friction characteristics and shift quality. Confirm fluid spec for your exact model.
- Ignoring worn drums/splines: installing new clutches into worn drums leads to rapid re-failure. Inspect and replace worn hardware.

Replacement parts generally required
- Clutch friction plates and steel plates (clutch pack rebuild kit).
- Piston seals, O‑rings, small seals in the valve body area.
- Transmission filter and pan gasket.
- Possibly drums, pistons, bushings, bearings, snap rings, torque converter (if damaged).
- Any solenoids/valves found faulty during diagnosis.

Final checks
- Double-check all electrical connectors and line connections before starting.
- Confirm no DTCs and perform transmission relearn if required.
- Recheck fluid level hot and cold per service manual after road test (fluid expands with temp).

That covers the full clutch-pack repair/replace flow for a Holden Colorado/Rodeo automatic transmission. Follow the factory service manual for your year/model for exact torque values, fluid type, and any model-specific procedures.
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