Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves, work in a well‑ventilated, flat area, use jack stands if you raise the vehicle; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing valve cover work to avoid accidental cranking or electrical shorts.
- If you are ever unsure about a step that involves removing the camshaft or springs, stop and seek professional help — incorrect reassembly can cause severe engine damage.

- How to know which valve system your engine has (important)
- Visual check: remove the plastic engine cover (if fitted) and look at the valvetrain under the valve cover.
- Rocker‑arm with an exposed adjustment screw and locknut = screw/locknut (mechanical) adjusters — can be adjusted with feeler gauges.
- Metal “bucket” over the valve stem under the cam lobe = shim‑under‑bucket design — these are adjusted by changing shim thickness (special tools usually required).
- Hydraulic tappets (no clearance to adjust; noisy lifters indicate a problem) = no routine adjustment; tappets or lifters may need replacement.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Feeler gauge set (multi‑leaf thin metal blades)
- Purpose: measure the clearance (valve lash) between cam/rocker and valve stem or shim.
- How to use: insert correct feeler blade between contact surfaces with slight drag; if it doesn’t fit or is too loose, clearance is out of spec.
- Metric socket and ratchet set (including a large socket for the crank pulley bolt)
- Purpose: remove bolts (valve cover, intake components) and to turn the engine to rotate to TDC.
- How to use: use correct size socket, turn clockwise to rotate engine by hand when breaking torque is high use breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, appropriate range)
- Purpose: re‑torque bolts (especially valve cover and crank pulley) to manufacturer spec.
- How to use: set specified torque, tighten until the wrench clicks; do bolts in recommended sequence.
- Combination spanners (open/box end) and small adjustable spanner
- Purpose: for rocker adjuster locknuts or small bolts where socket access is limited.
- How to use: hold the adjuster screw with screwdriver/hex while using spanner to back off locknut, then re‑tighten to lock.
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers
- Purpose: remove clamps, small fittings, and turn some adjuster screws if present.
- Torque screwdriver or small screwdriver with firm tip (for holding adjuster screws)
- Purpose: used during adjustment to hold screw while turning locknut or for precise feel.
- Clean shop rags and solvent (degreaser)
- Purpose: clean around valve cover to stop dirt falling into the head; wipe parts clean.
- Magnetic pick‑up and small container for bolts
- Purpose: prevent loss of small parts and speed reassembly.
- Gasket scraper or plastic seal puller
- Purpose: remove old valve cover gasket material without gouging the mating surface.
- Valve spring compressor (only if shim‑under‑bucket)
- Purpose: compress springs to remove the valve buckets and change shims.
- Why required: shims sit under the bucket and cannot be changed without compressing the spring and removing the bucket.
- Shim kit (various thickness shims) and magnet tray
- Purpose: replacement shims for shim‑under‑bucket engines; you’ll need a range to get within spec.
- Camshaft holding/locking tool (if required by engine)
- Purpose: keeps camshafts from turning while you work — required on some engines to maintain timing.
- Valve cover gasket replacement (recommended)
- Purpose: fresh gasket ensures a good seal after removal; old gasket often leaks after reassembly.
- Penetrating oil and anti‑seize or assembly lube
- Purpose: frees stuck bolts; lube protects tappets/shims on initial startup.
- Service manual (paper or online) — essential
- Purpose: gives engine‑specific specs (cold/warm lash spec, torque values, cylinder order, adjustment sequence, TDC identification).
- Why required: valve lash and torque specs vary by engine and are critical to follow.

- Preliminary preparation steps (what to do before adjusting)
- Consult the service manual for your exact Holden Colorado/Rodeo engine model (diesel vs petrol, year) and note valve clearance specs and whether measurements are done cold or warm.
- Gather tools and replacement parts (valve cover gasket; shims if you have shim buckets).
- Warm the engine only if the manual specifies warm measurement; otherwise use a cold engine (many manufacturers specify cold).
- Disconnect battery negative terminal and remove any obstructing components (air intake tubing, intercooler pipes if needed) to access the valve cover.

- Removing the valve cover (safe, clean method)
- Clean the top of the valve cover vigorously so grit won’t fall into the head when you remove the cover.
- Remove bolts in a crisscross pattern gradually, keeping bolts in order so you can reassemble correctly.
- Lift off the valve cover; if stuck, tap gently with a rubber mallet — do not pry aggressively.

- Identifying TDC and working cylinders
- Rotate the engine by turning the crankshaft bolt clockwise using a socket and ratchet until cylinder 1 is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke.
- How to confirm compression stroke: remove the spark plug or injector for cylinder 1 and feel for compression pressure by hand or watch timing marks; service manual will describe exact marks.
- Use the manual’s firing order and TDC sequence to position cam lobes for the cylinder pairs you are checking.

- Adjustment method — screw/locknut rocker system (simpler, common on some older petrol engines)
- Procedure:
- With the cam lobe on the base circle (valve closed), insert the specified feeler gauge between rocker and valve stem or adjuster.
- If gauge is too tight or loose, back off the locknut, turn the adjuster screw until you get the correct slight drag on the feeler, then hold the adjuster and tighten the locknut while checking the feeler still fits.
- Re‑check after tightening because locknuts can shift the setting; repeat until stable.
- Reassembly: clean sealing surface, replace valve cover gasket, torque valve cover bolts to spec.
- Replacement parts that may be required: adjuster screws or locking nuts if stripped, valve cover gasket, maybe rocker arm(s) if worn.

- Adjustment method — shim‑under‑bucket (common on modern DOHC and many diesels)
- Notes: this is more complex and typically requires removing camshaft(s) or using a valve spring compressor to access the buckets.
- Procedure overview:
- Identify clearance with the cam lobe on the base circle, measure with feeler gauge between bucket and cam lobe (or bucket top if specified).
- If out of spec, remove bucket and measure the existing shim thickness (or special gauge); calculate the new shim thickness to achieve the target clearance (shim thickness = old shim + measured clearance − target clearance).
- Install the correct shim, reassemble, and recheck clearance.
- Tools required: valve spring compressor (or cam removal tools), shim kits in 0.05 mm increments, magnet to remove shims, micrometer or shim gauge helps.
- Why special tools: shims are small, light, and under strong springs; removing the bucket without compressing the spring isn’t possible; camshaft removal or locking may be needed for access.
- Replacement parts: shims (various thicknesses), valve cover gasket, and possibly valve stem seals if leaking.

- Hydraulic lifters (if present)
- If engine uses hydraulic lifters (no clearance to set), you should not attempt lash adjustments.
- If noisy or excessive clearance is suspected, lifters/tappets may be worn or collapsed — replacement of tappets or a rebuild may be required.

- Common replacement parts and why they might be needed
- Valve cover gasket
- Why: mandatory when removing cover — old gasket often doesn’t reseal.
- Shims (shim‑under‑bucket engines)
- Why: to bring lash back into spec when original shim wear or incorrect size causes out‑of‑tolerance clearance.
- Rocker adjuster screws/locknuts (screw type)
- Why: threads or locking feature can wear or strip.
- Valve stem seals
- Why: if you see oil consumption or smoking after adjustment, seals may be leaking and need replacement.
- Tappets/hydraulic lifters
- Why: if lifters are noisy or not maintaining proper preload they must be replaced.
- Camshaft/rocker arms (rare)
- Why: severely worn lobes or rockers cause inconsistent lash and require replacement.

- Reassembly, testing and final checks
- Clean mating surfaces thoroughly, fit a new valve cover gasket and torque bolts to spec in the recommended sequence.
- Reinstall any removed intake parts and reconnect battery.
- Start engine and let idle; listen for excessive valve noise or knocking.
- After a short run, re‑inspect for oil leaks around the valve cover, and re‑check valve clearances if the manufacturer recommends a follow‑up check (some engines require recheck after warm‑up).
- If unusual noises persist or engine runs poorly, shut down and re‑inspect; do not continue to drive.

- When to call a professional / red flags
- You find buckets, shims, or tappets damaged or seized.
- Cam lobes or rocker pads show deep scoring or metal loss.
- You must remove camshafts and do not have the cam locking tool or confidence to maintain timing — incorrect timing can destroy the engine.
- You can’t get the lash within spec after changing shims/adjusters.

- Final notes (no nonsense)
- Follow the service manual for exact clearance values, cold/warm condition, torque specs, TDC identification and adjustment sequence — those numbers are critical and vary by engine/year.
- If your engine uses shim‑under‑bucket or requires cam removal/locking tools and you’re a complete beginner, consider having a workshop do the job — mistakes can be expensive.
- Keep used shims organized and note their original positions until replacements are confirmed.

End.
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