Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & consumables
- Full metric hand tool set (sockets 8–24mm, extensions, ratchet), breaker bar.
- 1/2" & 3/8" torque wrench (0–200 Nm / 0–300 ft·lb range).
- Impact gun (use carefully), breaker bar.
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack + wide wood cribbing and straps.
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if needed to support engine).
- Jack stands & wheel chocks; scissor jack for subframe support.
- Drain pan, fluid pump/funnel, brake-cleaner or solvent.
- Snap‑ring / circlip pliers, pick set.
- Seal driver / reducer set, brass drift, slide hammer (if removing bearings/seals).
- Clutch piston compressor (special tool for compressing multi‑plate piston) or large C‑clamp with wood blocks.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for end‑play), feeler gauges, vernier calipers/micrometer.
- Press (shop press) for bearing work (if required).
- Torque converter alignment tool (if required by procedure).
- Clean rags, nitrile gloves, safety glasses.
- New ATF (correct type), transmission filter, pan gasket, thread locker, RTV as specified.
- Replacement parts: clutch friction plates (full set), steel plates, piston seals/rings, apply oring kit, snap rings, pump seal, front/rear output seals as needed, bearings/sleeves if worn, torque converter (or rebuild kit) if damaged.

Safety precautions (do them)
- Work on level ground; wheel chock opposite end; use rated jackstands (never rely on jack alone).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support engine/transaxle before unbolting mounts.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; avoid loose clothing.
- Keep a clean work area; label parts and fasteners.
- If using compressed springs or pressurized pistons, use proper piston compressor tool and safety shields.

Overview (what you’re doing)
Automatic clutch repair = removing the transmission, disassembling the gear/planetary/valve body area to access clutch packs and pistons, replacing friction plates, steels, seals, and reassembling to specified clearances. Work methodically and take photos/notes of each step and orientation.

Step‑by‑step procedure (generic Holden Colorado / Rodeo automatic transmission)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, raise vehicle, remove wheels if necessary.
- Disconnect negative battery lead.
- Drain transmission fluid into pan (remove pan last? — you will drop pan later when valve body is removed; draining first reduces mess).
- Remove undertray/engine splash shields as needed.

2. Remove driveline & electrical
- Remove propshaft/drive shafts (mark orientation for reinstallation).
- Remove exhaust components blocking access (heat shields, mid pipe) as needed.
- Disconnect transmission electrical connectors, shift linkage, speedo sensors, neutral safety switch.
- Remove starter motor if it blocks bellhousing bolts.

3. Support engine & remove mounts
- Support engine with an engine support bar or jack under oil pan with wide wood block.
- Place transmission jack under transmission; strap it.
- Remove transmission crossmember and mount(s).
- Remove transfer case (if 4x4) or separate transfer case from output flange.

4. Separate transmission from engine
- Rotate torque converter to access torque converter-to-flexplate bolts through inspection cover or starter hole.
- Remove torque converter bolts (while transmission is supported). If bolts are seized, use hand tools/impact carefully. Note: some models have torque converter accessible only after sliding transmission back slightly.
- Remove bellhousing bolts in a star pattern. Carefully slide transmission straight back off dowel pins — the torque converter must stay engaged in the pump until you pull the trans back far enough; catch the converter on the pump lip with trans jack.
- Lower transmission onto jack and move to bench.

5. Remove torque converter & front pump
- After transmission on bench, remove torque converter from input shaft. Inspect for metal/contamination. If severe wear, replace or rebuild.
- Remove front pump if required to access the clutch packs (often the pump comes off with the trans case cover).
- Replace pump seal if damaged when removing torque converter (common failure point).

6. Disassemble planetary/clutch stack
- Note and photograph orientation/order of all parts.
- Remove valve body & oil strainer/pickup (label check balls/valves and take pics—do not mix).
- Remove snap rings and retaining rings that hold drums and clutch packs.
- Remove each clutch drum and slide out friction plates and steels.
- Inspect friction discs for glazing, burnt smell, or contamination; steels for heat discoloration; drums for scoring or worn splines.
- Inspect piston bores for seal grooves and corrosion.

7. Replace wear parts
- Replace all friction plates and steel plates in all packs as an assembly (mixing old and new will cause premature failure).
- Replace piston seals, O‑rings, snap rings, and any hard parts showing wear.
- Replace pump seal and front seal(s). Replace filter and pan gasket.
- If bearings or bushings are worn (measure clearances), press in new bearings or sleeves. Use shop press and drivers to avoid damaging parts.

8. Measure & set clearances
- Use feeler gauges/dial indicator to measure piston-to‑drum clearance and endplay. Refer to service manual spec; typical target clearances vary by pack.
- If clearance exceeds spec, add/remove piston shim or replace worn drum bearing/bush as required.
- Use piston spring and check piston snap ring seating and spring preload as per manual.

9. Reassemble clutch packs & valve body
- Before assembling, lubricate friction plates with new ATF and coat seals with transmission assembly lube.
- Compress piston using piston compressor tool, install snap ring securely into groove. If using large C‑clamp, protect piston face with wood blocks and compress slowly.
- Reassemble drums, snap rings, and planetary components in original order.
- Reinstall valve body carefully: torque bolts in proper sequence and torque spec; ensure check balls and screen are in place. Replace any RTV or gaskets recommended.

10. Reinstall torque converter & transmission
- Clean mating surfaces on engine, flexplate and torque converter.
- Fill torque converter roughly 1/3–1/2 full with ATF (to lube pump at initial startup) per manual guidance.
- Carefully slide transmission toward engine; ensure torque converter fully seats into pump. There are usually three distinct engagements: first into pump, then into crank pilot, then bolt holes line up. Rotate converter slowly while pushing to let splines/torque converter hub align; measure/feel it seating—often you will need to push it in until converter is flush with bellhousing lip and 3–6 clicks of engagement at pump.
- Do not install bellhousing bolts until converter is fully seated and bolt holes align. Once lined up install one or two top bolts to hold it, then torque to spec (refer to manual).
- Reinstall torque converter-to-flexplate bolts through access holes and torque to spec with thread locker if specified.

11. Reinstall driveshafts, mount & fill
- Reattach transmission mounts, crossmember, driveshafts, starter, electrical plugs, linkage, exhaust etc.
- Refill transmission with correct type and amount of ATF—do not overfill. Use fluid pump and check dipstick method. Initial fill amount has a specific procedure for many automatics; consult manual for fill level with engine running/gear selected.
- With vehicle on level ground and engine idling, shift through all gears to circulate fluid and seat clutches. Recheck fluid level after warm-up and road test.

How to use key tools (brief)
- Transmission jack: position square under trans, strap trans so it cannot shift; raise/lower in small increments while guiding bellhousing. Use wood blocks to protect case.
- Piston compressor tool: place over drum, compress piston slowly until snap‑ring groove exposed; insert new snap ring with pliers. Never rely on hand compression without tool — piston can snap back with force.
- Snap‑ring pliers: use correct size to avoid deforming ring; rotate tips into ring holes and expand/compress smoothly.
- Dial indicator: mount magnetic base to case, contact drum or plate shoulder, zero then measure axial endplay by moving drum; compare to spec.
- Seal driver / press: use correct diameter driver to seat seals squarely; press straight without tilting.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the engine properly: results in dropped/transmission misalignment. Use proper engine support.
- Removing bellhousing with torque converter not supported: converter will fall off input shaft. Always support converter with hand/bench jack.
- Failing to fully seat torque converter into pump: leads to pump seal damage and catastrophic leak at startup. Ensure full engagement before bolting.
- Reusing old clutch plates or seals: do not. Replace full set of friction/steel plates and seals.
- Losing valve body parts/check balls: keep organized and take photos; wrong placement will cause hydraulic failure.
- Installing snap rings incorrectly or not fully seated: will allow piston to move and pack to come free—use feel and visual check to ensure ring sits in groove.
- Not measuring clearances: exceeding max clearance or insufficient clearance causes slipping or harsh engagement. Measure and correct with shims or replace worn drums/bearings.
- Contamination: keep work area and parts clean; don’t use gasoline, use ATF/appropriate solvent and lint‑free rags.
- Incorrect fluid type or level: always use manufacturer‑specified ATF; incorrect fluid affects friction material and valve body operation.

Replacement parts most often required
- Full clutch/friction plate kit (all clutch packs).
- Steel reaction plates.
- Piston seals & O‑ring kit for pistons and valves.
- Pump seal & input shaft seal.
- Transmission filter and pan gasket.
- Snap rings & springs (replace if deformed).
- Torque converter (or rebuild kit) if contaminated with metal or if bearings/seal worn.
- Bearings/bushings if excessive wear or endplay out of spec.

Final checks & break‑in
- After road test, recheck fluid level and look for leaks.
- Perform a controlled break‑in: avoid heavy loads and towing for the first 200–400 km; avoid wide open throttle starts; shift through all gears periodically to help seating.
- Recheck endplay and linkage adjustments after initial run.

Notes & references
- This is a generic procedural guide; exact bolt locations, torque values, ATF type and clearance specs vary by transmission model/year. Always follow the Holden/Isuzu service manual for your specific Colorado/Rodeo model for torque figures, fluid type, and exact measurements.

End.
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