Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & consumables
- Safety: jack stands (pair), wheel chocks, gloves, safety glasses.
- Hand/impact tools: 1/2" breaker bar, 3/8" ratchet, impact gun (optional), sockets (metric set up to 36mm or 32mm axle nut size depending on year), extensions, combination wrenches.
- Specialty: torque wrench, ball-joint separator (pickle fork or tie-rod end puller), Knipex or pliers, snap-ring pliers (if applicable).
- Pullers/press: hub puller / slide hammer, hydraulic or shop press (with appropriate cups/adaptors) OR bearing driver / seal driver kit.
- Punch, hammer, drift, small pry bar.
- Penetrant (PB Blaster), anti-seize, high-temp wheel bearing grease (if non-sealed bearings), new cotter pins, brake cleaner, rags.
- Replacement parts: either a sealed hub bearing assembly (recommended) or bearing kit (inner/outer races, seals, circlips), new axle nut and cotter pin, new wheel studs if damaged. See factory part numbers for exact fit.

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground. Chock wheels on opposite end. Use rated jack stands under solid lift points — never rely on the jack.
- Wear eye protection. Brake dust may contain asbestos on older vehicles — avoid blowing it; use a damp rag or brake cleaner.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be removing ABS sensor or working near electrical connectors.
- Keep springs/loads supported when separating ball joints; don’t allow suspension to drop uncontrolled.

Procedure (front wheel hub / bearing replacement) — generic for Holden Colorado/Rodeo (4x2 and 4x4)
Note: some model years use a bolt-on sealed hub assembly (replace hub as a unit). Others use pressed tapered/ball bearings. If unsure, inspect hub: if there are retaining bolts behind the knuckle it’s a bolt-on hub; if not, bearings are pressed.

1) Preparation
- Loosen wheel nuts slightly (with vehicle on ground).
- Jack vehicle, support on stands, remove wheel.
- Remove ABS sensor connector and secure out of the way. Remove brake caliper (2 guide bolts). Hang caliper with wire; do NOT let it hang from brake hose.
- Remove brake rotor. If stuck, use penetrating oil and gentle taps around hat.

2) If 4x4 (drive axle through hub)
- Remove cotter pin and axle nut cap, then remove axle nut (large center nut). Use impact or breaker bar. You may need to apply parking brake and place a helper applying brakes to hold the hub.
- Release lower ball joint/tie rod end as required to get steering knuckle free. Use ball-joint separator or tie-rod puller. Support the lower control arm so the CV axle isn’t bearing full weight.
- Withdraw CV axle from hub: either it will slide out with some force, or you may need a slide hammer or hub puller. Be careful not to damage the axle seal; support the axle so splines aren’t scraped.

3) Hub assembly (bolt-on sealed hub) removal
- Locate the hub-to-knuckle bolts on the back of the knuckle (usually 3 or 4). Remove them. You may need penetrating oil and a long socket.
- Use a hub puller or large slide hammer on the hub to separate the hub from the knuckle. Heat to knuckle around hub if corroded. Pull straight to avoid damaging ABS ring.
- Clean mating surfaces. Fit new hub assembly into knuckle, line up ABS tone ring. Torque hub bolts to factory spec (consult manual). Refit axle nut (if applicable) and torque to spec; fit new cotter pin if required.

4) Pressed bearing removal (if not sealed unit)
- Remove any retaining snap ring behind the bearing in the knuckle (use snap-ring pliers).
- Use a hydraulic press: support knuckle on press bed so bearing inner or outer race lines up under press ram. Use driver/adaptors so force presses on the bearing inner race (or outer race depending on removal method) and drives bearing out of the knuckle toward the open side. If you press on wrong surface you’ll damage the knuckle or bearing.
- To install new bearing, make sure the knuckle bore is clean and free of corrosion. Use driver cups sized to press only on the new bearing’s outer race (or inner race as manufacturer directs) so force is transmitted through the race to seat the bearing squarely. Press until bearing lip bottoms and is flush. Install new snap ring and seal.
- If installing new hub/wheel studs into pressed bearing hub, press studs in with a press and driver.

How to use the main tools (brief)
- Hub puller/slide hammer: attach to hub via studs or bolting holes; give progressive pulls until hub separates. Use penetrating oil and heat if stuck. Keep puller centered; uneven pull will bind.
- Hydraulic/shop press: place knuckle on V-blocks or press plates so bearing to be pressed out is accessible. Use a driver that contacts only the race you intend to move. Pump pressure slowly while watching alignment. Release slowly when done.
- Ball joint separator: wedge between ball joint and taper, strike or use puller to pop taper loose. Support suspension so control arm doesn’t drop.

Reassembly
- Clean and lightly coat mating surfaces with anti-seize where appropriate (not on bearing race surfaces).
- If using serviceable bearings, pack bearings with appropriate grease and install seals last.
- Reinstall rotor, caliper, ABS sensor. Torque all fasteners to factory specs with torque wrench. Replace axle nut and torque to spec — some axle nuts are single-use and must be replaced.
- If original used a castellated nut/cotter pin, always fit a new cotter pin and bend properly.
- Refit wheel, lower vehicle and torque wheel nuts to correct spec.
- Test drive gently, listen for noise/vibration; recheck torque after 50–100 km.

Common pitfalls / mistakes to avoid
- Not supporting the vehicle/suspension properly — leads to injury or damage.
- Trying to hammer a seized hub with impact excessively — can damage ABS ring or CV splines.
- Using press on the wrong race (will damage bearing or knuckle). Always transmit force to the bearing race specified by the bearing manufacturer.
- Reusing old axle nut/cotter pin or not replacing seals — leads to failure or grease contamination.
- Over/under-torquing hub/axle nut — destroys bearing life or allows hub to run hot.
- Contaminating new bearings with dirt or brake cleaner (if packed bearings are used, do not use solvent on grease-packed bearings).
- Ignoring ABS tone ring/wiring — bent or damaged tone ring causes ABS faults.

Final checks
- Confirm no ABS codes; check wheel for play with vehicle on ground (jack removed) by rocking wheel at 12/6 and 3/9 o’clock and listening for noise.
- Road test to ensure no vibration, grinding or ABS faults. Re-torque fasteners as needed per shop manual interval.

Parts to replace (recommended)
- Sealed hub assembly (preferred) OR bearing kit (inner/outer, seals, snap rings), axle nut (single-use), cotter pin, possibly wheel studs, hub bolts if damaged, new grease if needed.

Consultation note (do not skip): Always cross-check the exact procedure and torque values with the factory service manual for the specific year/engine/drive configuration of your Colorado/Rodeo before starting.
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