Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Basic metric socket set (8–19 mm), 3/8" ratchet, 1/2" breaker bar, extensions and universal joint.
- Combination wrenches (8–19 mm), including 14 mm or 15 mm depending on model.
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm range).
- Serpentine belt tool or long 15–17 mm breaker bar/ratchet to rotate the tensioner.
- Pliers (needle-nose), small flat screwdriver for clips.
- Multimeter (for testing battery/alternator).
- Penetrating oil (WD‑40), wire brush.
- Dielectric grease.
- Replacement alternator (correct part number / amperage for your engine), new alternator mounting bolt(s) if damaged, and (recommended) new serpentine belt and tensioner if worn.
- Safety gear: eye protection, gloves.
- Rags, container for small parts.

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work on level ground, engine cold. Allow radiator/fan to cool. Chock wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before doing electrical work (and keep it disconnected until reassembly).
- Remove jewelry. Use eye protection — alternator springs and bolts can flick.
- Support components if you remove mounts or brackets. Don’t let wiring hang under sharp edges.
- If you must run engine briefly for testing, keep hands/tools clear of moving parts and fan.

Preparation & diagnosis (quick)
1. Verify alternator fault with multimeter: key off battery V ≈12.6 V (12.2–12.8). Engine running should be about 13.5–14.8 V. If <13.2 V or >15 V, alternator likely bad.
2. Visually inspect belt, connectors, and ground. If belt glazed/cracked, replace it when replacing alternator.

Removal (step-by-step)
1. Park, disconnect battery
- Put vehicle in Park/neutral, handbrake on. Remove negative battery cable first using the appropriate wrench (usually 10–12 mm).
- Secure cable away so it can’t contact the battery post.

2. Gain access
- Remove engine cover, air inlet hose or intake resonator if they block access. Use 8–10 mm sockets and pliers for clips.
- On some models you may need to remove or loosen the battery and tray (12–13 mm) or fan shroud for room. Keep track of retaining bolts.

3. Note belt routing
- Draw or photograph belt routing before removing. If no diagram, trace it carefully.

4. Release belt tension and remove belt
- Locate the serpentine belt tensioner. Fit a belt tool, appropriate socket, or long wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt.
- Rotate tensioner to relieve tension (typically clockwise) and slip belt off alternator pulley. Slowly release tensioner back.
- If tensioner is frozen or rusty, penetrating oil and force may be required; consider replacement if it’s stiff.

5. Disconnect electrical connections from alternator
- Remove the main positive cable on the alternator output stud: use the correct socket/wrench to remove the nut (often 10–12 mm). Keep terminal and insulating cap.
- Unplug the small multi‑pin connector (press tab and pull). If stuck, use a small screwdriver to depress locking tab — be careful not to break the plastic.

6. Remove mounting bolts
- Identify pivot and adjust/upper bolts. Usually there are two or three bolts: lower pivot (larger), upper/adjuster (smaller).
- Support the alternator with one hand. Remove the adjuster/upper bolt first (often 12 mm). Then break the pivot bolt free with breaker bar and remove.
- Remove alternator from engine bay. If stuck, gently pry on the body using a pry bar at the designated bosses — avoid prying on the pulley.

Installation (step-by-step)
1. Prepare new alternator
- Compare new unit to old. Transfer any brackets, heat shields, or isolators. Clean old electrical lug and apply a small amount of dielectric grease; replace crush washers or nuts if supplied.
- If the pulley or belt size is different, do not install — get correct part.

2. Fit alternator
- Position alternator on lower pivot and align upper mounting hole.
- Insert lower (pivot) bolt finger tight to hold alternator. Insert upper/adjuster bolt.

3. Torque mounting bolts
- Snug bolts, then torque to factory spec. Typical ranges: M10 bolts 40–60 Nm, M8 bolts 20–30 Nm — consult service manual for exact numbers and torque the output stud nut appropriately (some are 20–30 Nm). Use torque wrench.

4. Reconnect electricals
- Reattach main output cable to the alternator stud and torque nut (clean threads first). Reconnect the small multi‑pin plug until it clicks.
- Ensure wiring harness is routed without tension, and insulated cap is in place.

5. Install belt
- Route belt according to the diagram/photo. Rotate tensioner with tool, feed belt over alternator pulley, then slowly release tensioner so it takes up slack.
- Check belt sits fully in all pulley grooves. If new belt, align rib-side to pulleys.

6. Reinstall removed parts
- Refit battery tray, airbox, intake hoses, engine covers, fan shroud, etc. Reconnect any sensors disconnected earlier.

7. Reconnect battery
- Clean battery posts if corroded. Reconnect negative terminal and tighten securely.

Testing & final checks
1. Start engine and observe. Listen for unusual noises (bearing whine, rubbing).
2. Test charging voltage with multimeter at battery: expect 13.5–14.8 V at idle. Turn on headlights and blower — voltage should remain above ≈13.0 V.
3. Check dash charging light is off. Inspect wiring for heat, secure clamps, and no rubbing.
4. Road test briefly and re-check bolts and belt after 10–20 km.

How the tools are used (concise)
- Socket & ratchet: removing nuts/bolts quickly; use extensions or universal joint to reach tight spots.
- Breaker bar: apply more torque to free seized bolts without risking ratchet slipping.
- Torque wrench: apply correct final torque to mounting bolts and electrical nut to avoid over/under tightening.
- Belt tensioner tool/long wrench: provides leverage to rotate tensioner to remove/install belt.
- Multimeter: measure battery voltage (engine off and running) to confirm alternator output.
- Penetrating oil: free rusted bolts; apply and let soak before attempting removal.

Replacement parts & consumables commonly required
- Alternator (correct amperage and mounting for your engine).
- Serpentine belt (recommended when replacing alternator).
- Tensioner or idler pulley if worn/noisy.
- Mounting bolts or nuts if corroded/damaged (inspect and replace).
- Electrical insulating cap or terminal if brittle.
- Dielectric grease for connectors.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not disconnecting battery: risk of shorting — always disconnect negative first.
- Losing or damaging small insulating caps and nuts — keep parts in a tray.
- Incorrect belt routing or twisted belt — photograph before removal; check routing diagram.
- Reusing a worn belt or tensioner — a new alternator with an old belt can cause premature failure.
- Over/under-torquing the output stud or mounting bolts — use torque wrench and service specs.
- Forcing electrical plugs — depress locking tab first; broken plastic means a hard-to-replace harness.
- Allowing dirt into alternator connector: clean and apply dielectric grease.
- Installing wrong amperage alternator — match OEM rating for charging capacity and ECU compatibility.
- Not testing charging under load — check voltage with lights/heater on to confirm performance.
- Forgetting to clear codes or reset battery-related systems if required by vehicle (some models may set codes that clear after a drive or battery disconnect).

If the alternator is heavy/hard to position, use a jack with a block to support and align it while inserting bolts. Always consult the vehicle’s service manual for model-year specific notes, torque specs and any ECM/charging-system relearn procedures.
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HOLDEN COLORADO 3.6 ENGINE 163445 KMS P2066

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