Holden Colorado/Rodeo 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Short version first: this applies to petrol (gasoline) Holden Colorado / Isuzu Rodeo engines (4‑cyl or V6). If your vehicle is diesel it has NO spark plugs (diesels use glow plugs) — do not try this on a diesel. Read the whole thing once before you start.

1) Why this repair is needed — the simple theory
- Purpose: spark plugs produce the spark that ignites the air‑fuel mixture in each cylinder. Without a good, correctly‑timed spark you get misfires, rough idle, poor fuel economy, hard starts and possible catalytic converter damage.
- How it works (analogy): imagine each cylinder is a stove burner with a pilot light. The spark plug is the pilot — a tiny gap where a high‑voltage “spark” jumps and lights the fuel. The ignition coil is like a transformer/booster that takes the 12 V battery and steps it up to tens of thousands of volts so the spark can jump the gap. The wire or coil boot is the insulated hose that carries that high voltage to the plug.
- What goes wrong: plugs wear (electrodes round off), electrodes and porcelain foul with carbon or oil, gaps change, insulators crack, boots leak or coil fail. Result: weak or no spark and misfires.

2) Main components you’ll encounter (detailed)
- Spark plug: threaded metal shell, hex for a socket, porcelain insulator and center electrode + ground electrode. Types: copper, platinum, iridium. Modern engines usually use long‑life platinum/iridium plugs.
- Spark plug well / cylinder head: plug threads into the cylinder head.
- Ignition coil (coil‑on‑plug, COP) or ignition leads/wires & coil pack:
- Coil‑on‑plug: one coil mounted directly over each plug. Coil contains primary and secondary windings and a high‑voltage output terminal that mates directly to the plug boot.
- Coil pack + leads: a central coil or coils send high voltage through thick insulated leads to each plug.
- Coil boot / spark plug boot: rubber/insulating sleeve that seals and connects coil/lead to plug.
- Retaining bolts: hold coils down.
- Spark plug socket: deep socket (usually 5/8" or 13/16" or 16mm depending on plug) with rubber insert to grip plug.
- Torque wrench: sets correct thread torque on plug.
- Gap gauge/feeler: measures plug gap if plugs require gapping.
- Dielectric grease: small dab on inside of boot to prevent moisture/corrosion and ease removal.
- Anti‑seize (optional/wary): compound for threads—many modern plugs have plated threads and manufacturers recommend NOT using anti‑seize; check service manual.

3) Tools & supplies checklist
- Correct replacement spark plugs (match OEM part & heat range). Check manual for the gap spec and electrode type.
- Spark plug socket with rubber insert (correct size).
- 3/8" drive ratchet, extension (6–12"), swivel if needed.
- Torque wrench capable of the plug torque.
- Feeler gauge (if you must gap the plugs).
- Dielectric grease.
- Compressed air or a clean brush and shop vacuum.
- Small pick or flat screwdriver (to help release boots carefully).
- Safety glasses and gloves.
- Rag and container for old plugs.
- Optional: thread chaser if head threads damaged, anti‑seize only if manual allows.

4) Preparations and safety
- Work with the engine cool — hot heads can strip threads and burn you.
- Park on level ground, key out, ignition OFF. For safety you may disconnect negative battery terminal if you like (not mandatory for plug change but prevents accidental cranking).
- Keep small parts and tools organized.
- Read the service manual or owner’s manual for the correct plug type and torque spec.

5) Step‑by‑step procedure (beginner‑friendly)
A. Access
1. Remove the engine cover if present (usually plastic cover held by bolts or push clips).
2. Locate the ignition coils or plug wires. On COP systems you’ll see a coil sitting over each plug; on older systems you’ll see thick wires running to the plugs.

B. Clean
3. Blow compressed air and/or brush around each plug well so dirt won’t fall into the cylinder when you remove the plug. This is critical — debris falling into a cylinder can cause major problems.

C. Remove coil or wire
4. For coil‑on‑plug: remove the small retaining bolt(s), unplug the electrical connector (press tab), then pull the coil straight up. Wiggle gently — don’t yank the wiring. If the coil is stubborn, a rocker or gentle twisting while pulling helps.
5. For plug wires: grasp the boot (not the wire) and pull straight out with a twisting motion.

D. Remove the plug
6. Use the spark plug socket + extension + ratchet. Turn counterclockwise to break the plug free, then continue to unscrew until you can lift the socket (with plug held by rubber insert) out of the well.
7. Inspect the old plug and set it aside.

E. Inspect old plug (learn to read it)
- Light tan/gray insulator: healthy.
- Black, dry sooty plug: running rich or weak ignition.
- Wet/oily plug: oil entering the combustion chamber (worn rings/valves).
- White or blistered porcelain: lean condition or overheating.
- Rounded electrodes or large gap: plug is worn and needs replacement.

F. Prepare the new plug
8. Confirm the gap (if required). Many modern iridium plugs come pre‑gapped, but always check the spec in your manual. Use a feeler gauge and gently bend the ground electrode if adjustment is needed. Do NOT use pliers hard — avoid cracking the insulator.
9. Lubrication: check the shop manual. If it allows, a very light smear of anti‑seize on threads or a drop of engine oil can help (for aluminium heads, consult the manual). If plugs come with a coated thread, do NOT add anti‑seize. Overuse of anti‑seize will change torque results.
10. Put a small dab of dielectric grease into the coil boot (inside) to aid sealing and future removal.

G. Install the new plug
11. Carefully start the new plug by hand with the socket to avoid cross‑threading. If it doesn’t spin in easily, back out and start again.
12. Tighten by hand until seated. Then use a torque wrench to final torque — find the exact torque in the vehicle manual. Typical spark plug torque values for passenger engines are in the 14–28 ft‑lb (19–38 N·m) range depending on head material. If you do NOT have a torque wrench, a common safe rule:
- New plug into new threads: tighten by hand then 1/2 turn.
- New plug into used threads: tighten by hand then 1/4–1/3 turn.
(These are guidelines only — better to use a torque wrench.)
13. Reinstall the coil and bolt it down, reconnect the electrical connector. If using wires, push the boot firmly until you hear/feel it seat.

H. Repeat for every plug
14. Always change them one at a time so you don’t mix up leads or coil positions.

I. Final checks
15. Reconnect battery negative if you disconnected it. Start the engine. It should idle smoothly. If you get a rough idle or check engine light, double‑check coil connectors, ensure boots are fully seated, and check for any stored misfire codes with an OBD‑II scanner.

6) Common errors and what can go wrong
- Cross‑threading or stripping the head threads: happens if you start the plug crooked or use the ratchet instead of hand‑threading. Consequence: expensive cylinder head repair. Avoid by hand‑threading first.
- Over‑torque: breaks the plug, strips threads, or snaps the ceramic — use torque wrench and manual spec.
- Under‑torque: plug can loosen, leak compression, or overheat.
- Dropping debris into cylinder: clean the well thoroughly first.
- Dropping the plug into the combustion chamber: if it falls in, do NOT run the engine — remove it with a magnet or retrieve through the spark plug hole (you may need to remove head components).
- Damaging coil boots or wiring: pull on the boot only and be gentle.
- Using wrong plug type/gap: causes misfire, pre‑ignition or poor performance.
- Using anti‑seize when not recommended: changes torque reading and can over‑tighten.

7) Diagnostics after replacement
- If misfire persists on same cylinder: suspect a bad coil, wiring, poor compression, injector issue or valve problem. Swap the coil to a different cylinder and see if the misfire follows the coil.
- Use OBD‑II codes: P030X indicates a misfire in cylinder X.
- If new plugs foul quickly: check fuel injectors, compression, PCV, and oil control.

8) Practical tips
- Replace coils or wires that are cracked, brittle, or corroded at the same time.
- Replace plugs according to interval recommended (many iridium plugs run 60k–100k km, older copper plugs much less).
- Keep used plugs for future troubleshooting (color teaches a lot).
- Work methodically, one plug at a time.
- If in doubt about torque or thread treatment, consult the Holden/Isuzu service manual or a dealer.

If you follow the cleaning, hand‑start threading, correct gapping, and torque advice, this is a straightforward maintenance job that most beginners can do safely.
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How to remove a Holden Colorado / Rodeo radio This will show you how to remove a radio from a Holden Rodeo and Colorado. I created this video with the YouTube Video Editor ...

Holden/ Chevrolet Colorado| Transmission Replacement

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Tools & consumables
- Basic: 10, 12, 13, 14, 17 mm sockets, deep 19/21 mm if needed, ratchet, extensions, breaker bar, swivel/universal joint.
- Torque wrench (0–150 Nm).
- Combination wrenches 10–19 mm.
- Long flat & Phillips screwdrivers, small punch set, drift.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or equivalent).
- Wire brush, emery cloth (400–600 grit), contact cleaner.
- Multimeter (DC volts/ohms).
- Jumper leads or bench 12 V supply for bench testing.
- Centre punch / snap‑ring pliers (if starter has circlips).
- Small bench vise with soft jaws or protective padding.
- Soldering iron, small drill and bits (if brushes are riveted), small files.
- Bench grease (high‑temp lithium) for pinion splines; light anti‑seize for bolts.
- Replacement parts: starter rebuild kit (brushes, springs, bushings/bearings, O‑rings), solenoid (if faulty) or full replacement starter. New mounting bolts if damaged/corroded.
- Safety: eye protection, gloves, wheel chocks, jack stands, battery terminal puller optional.

Safety precautions (do these first)
1. Park on level ground, chock wheels, engage park/handbrake.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal first and isolate battery (remove positive terminal second if you prefer extra safety); tape terminal away to prevent accidental contact.
3. If lifting vehicle, use a hydraulic jack and support on jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
4. Avoid shorting battery terminals to chassis. Remove jewellery.
5. Work with good ventilation and no naked flames near battery or cleaners.

Removal — step by step
1. Prepare: apply penetrating oil to visible starter bolts/heat shield seams and let soak 10–15 minutes.
2. Locate starter: typically mounted to the bellhousing at the rear/side of the engine. Remove any engine covers or heat shields blocking access (12–14 mm bolts).
3. Label wiring: mark or photograph the battery cable, solenoid feed(s), and small ignition switch wire(s). There are usually: large battery feed (thick cable), solenoid output to starter, and thin ignition/starter signal wire.
4. Disconnect wires: remove the small lug/plug first, then undo the heavy battery cable nut and move cable clear (tape it back to prevent contact).
5. Support starter by hand, then remove the lower and upper mounting bolts (often 2 bolts). Use a breaker bar if seized. Keep the starter supported; it may be heavy or awkward.
6. Remove starter assembly from engine. Inspect bellhousing, flywheel teeth (exposed) for damage while starter is out.
7. If bolts or threads are seized/damaged: use penetrating oil, heat (carefully) or extract bolts; avoid snapping bolts — if they break, you will need bolt extraction which is more advanced.

Bench testing before teardown
1. Visually inspect for corrosion, burnt smells, oil contamination.
2. Multimeter: check solenoid coil resistance (compare to spec if available) and check for continuity between battery terminal and starter body (should be open when solenoid not engaged).
3. Bench test: clamp starter in vise (soft jaws / wood to protect housing). Connect negative to starter body, connect +12 V to solenoid battery post — and briefly jump the small control terminal to +12 V. The pinion should extend and the armature spin smoothly. Do not run more than a few seconds without load. If nothing happens, solenoid or internal motor fault likely.

Disassembly (bench)
1. Remove outer fasteners: remove solenoid retaining screws/bolts. Keep parts ordered.
2. Remove end-cap(s) or cover plate(s) — note orientation and any shims.
3. Remove brushes: brushes may be riveted — drill rivets carefully or de‑solder if soldered. Keep springs and holders.
4. Remove armature: pull armature out from the field frame. Inspect commutator for deep grooves or burnt segments.
5. Remove bushings/bearings from the nose and rear. Some are pressed; use a drift or press. Note installed depth and any circlips.
6. Inspect Bendix/pinion gear and overrunning clutch: check teeth, grease, wear on splines and spring engagement.
7. Inspect field windings/coils for burned insulation or open windings (use ohmmeter). Check for carbon contamination.

Common repairs & how to do them
- Brushes replacement: install new brushes (from rebuild kit). If original brushes were riveted, use new brush kit with solderable leads or new rivets. File/trim brushes to seat and allow free movement in holders. Use a small amount of conductive brush grease if specified.
- Bushings/bearings: replace worn bronze sleeves or sealed bearings. Press new bushings into nose and rear. Use light press or vise with sockets sized to bushing OD. Do not hammer the armature journal.
- Commutator cleaning: use very fine emery (400–600 grit) lightly to remove glazing; then clean with contact cleaner. If commutator is scored deeply or out of round, machine/turn on lathe or replace armature.
- Solenoid: if solenoid plunger is stuck or contacts burnt, replace the solenoid or the whole solenoid assembly. Replace contact disc/washer if pitted.
- Bendix/Drive gear: replace if teeth are worn or overrunning clutch is slipping. Use light high‑temp grease on splines only; keep grease away from commutator and brushes.

Reassembly
1. Fit new bushings/bearings and refit armature. Ensure free rotation with minimal lateral play.
2. Reinstall brushes and springs; ensure correct orientation and free movement.
3. Reassemble solenoid and end caps with new O‑rings/seals if included.
4. Clean all external mounting surfaces and apply small amount of anti‑seize to mounting bolt threads.
5. Bench test as above before reinstalling.

Reinstalling starter to vehicle
1. Position starter into bellhousing. Fit and start mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
2. Torque mounting bolts to factory spec — typical range for many 4–6 cylinder starters is 35–60 Nm; verify exact value in the workshop manual for your Holden Colorado/Rodeo model. Torque evenly.
3. Reconnect heavy battery cable to the starter battery terminal and torque nut (typical battery terminal torque 6–10 Nm). Reconnect small ignition wire/plug.
4. Reconnect battery (positive first if you removed both earlier; negative last).
5. Test start engine. Check for unusual noises (grinding indicates misalignment or damaged flywheel teeth).

Testing & diagnostics after install
- Starter should engage smoothly and crank engine at normal speed. Slow cranking could be low battery or internal starter drag.
- If starter clicks but won’t spin: check battery voltage under load, check connections for corrosion/loose, check solenoid.
- If starter spins but doesn’t engage with ring gear: check Bendix assembly and pinion travel, and ensure mounting is flush and bolts torqued.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not disconnecting the battery — risk of short, sparks, or injury.
- Mixing up battery and starter terminals — always mark/photograph before removal.
- Using too much grease on pinion or commutator — causes contamination and shorts.
- Overheating or hammering armature — damages rotor and bearings.
- Reinstalling with bent dip-shims or wrong bushings — causes misalignment and premature wear.
- Over‑torquing starter or battery terminals — strips threads or snaps studs. Under‑torquing causes poor grounding and slow cranking.
- Reusing badly corroded wiring or connectors — leads to voltage drop and intermittent faults.
- Not bench‑testing after rebuild — you may reinstall a defective starter and repeat the job.

When to replace rather than rebuild
- Armature has deep grooves, burned windings, or shorted bars.
- Field coil open or badly damaged.
- Overrunning clutch/Bendix is irreparably damaged.
- Solenoid contact housing melted or pitted severely.
- Cost/time for parts and labor approaches price of a remanufactured/new starter.

Final notes
- Always consult the vehicle’s workshop manual for exact bolt sizes, torques, and model‑specific access notes.
- Use OEM or quality aftermarket rebuild kits and parts. If in doubt, replacing the complete starter is quicker and often more reliable than a marginal rebuild.

Done.
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