Tools & supplies
- Metric socket/ratchet set (8–17 mm), open-end wrenches
- Screwdrivers (flat & Phillips)
- Pliers (needle-nose, locking)
- Feeler gauge (metric) or ruler/vernier for pedal free play
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster)
- Light machine oil or white lithium grease
- Wire brush
- Replacement throttle cable (OEM or exact-fit), clevis pin & split pin/retaining clip, new return spring, pivot bushings if worn
- Small punch and hammer (for pins)
- Zip ties, rubber grommets, anti-chafe sleeve
- Torque wrench (for final fasteners)
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection

Safety first
- Park on level ground, block wheels, set parking brake, place transmission in neutral.
- Work with engine OFF and key removed. If you must run engine for final checks, keep hands, tools and clothing clear of belts, fans and pulleys.
- Allow engine to cool before working around manifolds or turbocharger.
- If working near fuel lines or injection pump, avoid sparks; keep a fire extinguisher handy.
- Do not disable or alter governor springs or stops in a way that could allow engine overspeed.

Overview of procedure
1) Visual inspection
- Trace cable from pedal to injection pump throttle lever. Look for kinks, frayed strands, corrosion, heat damage, or worn outer casing. Inspect pedal pivot and return spring for free movement and wear.
- Check linkage pivots at firewall and pump for play or worn bushings.

2) Measure pedal free play (baseline)
- With engine off, sit in driver seat, slowly lift pedal with fingertips until movement is felt at the throttle lever (or cable inner). Measure travel at pedal pad — acceptable free play for many mechanical diesel throttle linkages is small: about 2–5 mm (0.08–0.20 in). If excessive, adjustment or cable replacement required.

3) Remove obstructions for access
- Remove air cleaner intake ducting or covers as required to access pump throttle lever and cable routing. Keep removed bolts/parts organized.

4) Loosen cable end at pump
- Locate cable adjuster/clevis at injection pump throttle lever. Hold lever and loosen the locknut on the adjuster (usually 10–14 mm). If cable secured with a clevis pin and clip, use pliers/punch to remove pin/clip.
- If clips are corroded, apply penetrating oil and let soak before removing.

5) Free cable from pedal (if replacing)
- Under dash, locate pedal end of cable. Remove retaining clip or nut and disconnect from pedal arm. Note routing and any grommets through firewall.

6) Replace cable (if required) or prepare for adjustment
- If cable is frayed, sticky, or binding, replace it. Route new cable exactly as old one: avoid sharp bends, hot surfaces (turbo/exhaust), and pinch points. Use rubber grommets and anti-chafe sleeves where it passes through the firewall.
- Lubricate new cable lightly with cable lubricant or light machine oil before installation.

7) Set preliminary adjustment (cable slack)
- With cable connected but locknut loose, set the cable so that pedal free play is in the 2–5 mm range. At the pump, position the throttle lever at its idle position (idle stop screw on pump should be making contact with lever when at idle) — tighten adjuster locknut finger-tight to hold position.
- If pump has a throttle stop screw, ensure it is seated at intended idle position; do not force lever against stop.

8) Verify return spring and operation
- Make sure return spring is in good condition and returns lever/pedal quickly and fully. Replace spring if weak or stretched.
- Cycle the pedal several times, checking for smooth, full travel without binding. Ensure inner cable moves freely and outer housing does not compress under load.

9) Fine adjustment & idle check (engine running)
- Start engine and let warm up to operating temperature. Confirm parking brake engaged and vehicle secure.
- With engine running, adjust the cable adjuster or pump idle screw so idle RPM matches spec for your vehicle (if you don’t have the exact spec, set to a stable smooth idle ~650–850 RPM typical for diesel). Turn adjuster in small increments and listen for RPM changes.
- Ensure the pedal returns to idle with no creeping RPM. If engine creeps above desired idle when pedal released, shorten cable (increase slack at adjuster) until idle stable, or adjust pump idle stop.

10) Full travel & safety stop
- Press pedal to full travel and confirm pump lever reaches full throttle travel without binding or exceeding designed travel. There should be a mechanical full-throttle stop on the pump or throttle bracket — do not force beyond it.
- Adjust or set a full-throttle stop screw (if present) so the pump is not over-traveled (prevents damage and overspeed).

11) Final checks & secure
- With adjustments made, tighten locknuts to spec (snug; avoid deforming cable). Replace any split pins, clips and secure grommets.
- Check routing again for heat contact and secure with zip ties at safe distances.
- Repeat pedal free play measurement and confirm within target range.
- Road test carefully. Watch for poor throttle response, hesitation, or any abnormal noises.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing a damaged cable: frayed or corroded inner cables can break; replace rather than adjust.
- Over-tightening cable (no free play): leads to binding at idle and possible stalling or inability to return to idle. Always keep small free play.
- Misrouting cable near exhaust/turbo: causes heat damage and premature failure — reroute with heat shield/grommet.
- Ignoring return spring: a weak spring allows throttle to hang open — replace spring if questionable.
- Not setting throttle stop: without a proper stop you can over-travel the injection pump lever and damage governor or increase fuel delivery risk of overspeed.
- Forcing seized pivot pins: use penetrating oil and gentle heat if needed; avoid hammering pump levers.
- Altering governor springs or internals without expertise: can cause runaway overspeed and catastrophic engine damage. Don’t cut or remove governor springs.

Replacement parts typically required
- Throttle/accelerator cable (OEM or correct-length aftermarket)
- Clevis pin and retaining clip, pedal end fastener
- Return spring
- Pivot bushings or nylon sleeves (if worn)
- Rubber grommets and anti-chafe sleeve
- Throttle lever bracket or replacement lever if visibly worn or bent

How specific tools are used
- Feeler gauge/ruler: measure pedal free play at pad to ensure correct slack before final locknut tightening.
- Wrenches/socket: loosen/tighten locknuts on adjuster and fasteners; torque to manufacturer spec where applicable.
- Pliers/punch: remove/fit clevis pins and retaining clips.
- Penetrating oil & wire brush: free seized pivot points and clean contact surfaces before reassembly.
- Grease/lube: apply to pivot points and cable inner to ensure smooth operation.

Final warnings
- Do not run the engine with cables disconnected near moving parts.
- If you are not certain about pump governor behavior or full-throttle settings, consult service manual or a diesel injection specialist — incorrect adjustments can damage the injection pump or cause dangerous overspeed.
- After any work, test under controlled conditions and recheck all fasteners.

Done.
rteeqp73

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