Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & parts
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), deep sockets
- 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets + breaker bar (long-handled)
- Serpentine belt tool (slim 3/8" or 1/2" drive "tensioner" bar) or large Allen/hex bar if tensioner has hex/square drive
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm)
- Combination wrenches (10–17 mm)
- Pry bar / long screwdriver (light use only)
- Penetrating oil (if bolts seized)
- New tensioner assembly (recommended), new idler pulley if worn, new serpentine belt (inspect & replace if worn)
- Replacement mounting bolts if damaged / torque-to-yield
- Gloves, safety glasses, wheel chocks, jack stands

Safety first
1. Park on level ground, parking brake set, chock rear wheels.
2. Engine cold. Remove rings, jewelry; wear gloves and eye protection.
3. If you must run or crank the engine during work, disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent accidental start. For simple belt/tensioner change you can leave battery connected but ensure key out.
4. Support vehicle with jack stands if raised. Never rely on a jack only.

Step-by-step: remove & replace tensioner pulley (typical Isuzu D-Max procedure)
Note: exact access varies by model/year (engine cover, splash shield, air intake may need removal). Follow belt routing diagram or photograph before removal.

1. Locate tensioner and belt
- Find serpentine belt routing diagram (sticker under hood or draw one). Identify the automatic tensioner (spring-loaded pulley).

2. Gain working space
- Remove engine cover, air intake duct, or splash shields as needed to access tensioner. On some D-Max models you must remove the right front wheel and inner guard to get a good angle.

3. Relieve belt tension
- Use the serpentine belt tool or a long 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet/breaker bar engaged on the tensioner’s square recess or bolt head. Most Isuzu tensioners have a square 3/8" or 1/2" drive hole or a hex/14–15 mm bolt head.
- Rotate the tensioner in the direction that relieves tension (usually clockwise on most D-Max engines). Hold it over and slip the belt off the easiest pulley (often the alternator).
- Important: keep control of the tensioner while it’s compressed — it’s spring-loaded and will snap back if released.

4. Remove the belt
- Remove the belt from the rest of the pulleys, noting the routing.

5. Remove tensioner assembly
- With belt off, remove the tensioner mounting bolt(s) using the appropriate socket. If bolt is seized, apply penetrating oil and let soak.
- Pull out the tensioner. Inspect mounting boss and bracket for damage.

6. Inspect pulleys and belt
- Check all pulleys (idler, alternator, water pump, AC) for play, glazing, or misalignment. Replace any worn pulley or the belt.

7. Install new tensioner
- Position new tensioner in place. If replacing only the pulley, mount the new pulley on the tensioner body per part instructions.
- Install mounting bolt(s) and tighten by hand to seat. Torque to OEM specification. Typical torque range for accessory tensioner bolts is roughly 35–60 Nm (26–44 lb-ft) depending on model — verify with the service manual for your D-Max year/engine and use specified torque. If you do not have the manual, torque to a conservative value (~40 Nm) but confirm later.

8. Refit belt
- Route the belt according to the diagram, leaving the easiest pulley free.
- Use the belt tool/breaker bar to rotate the tensioner to allow the belt onto the last pulley. Make sure the belt seats fully in all pulley grooves.

9. Double-check alignment & tension
- Inspect belt run and alignment across all pulleys. Ensure belt is seated in grooves and not twisted.
- If the tensioner has an alignment or indicator mark, confirm it’s in the correct range.

10. Reassemble & test
- Reinstall any removed covers, intake parts, wheel/inner guard.
- Reconnect battery if disconnected.
- Start engine and observe belt and tensioner operation for a few minutes. Listen for noise and recheck belt alignment.

How the tools are used (practical tips)
- Serpentine belt tool / breaker bar: insert into the tensioner’s square drive or place on the tensioner bolt head; apply steady force to compress the spring. The long handle reduces required force and gives better control; do not use sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench: use to tighten tensioner mounting bolt to spec. Set to correct Nm and tighten smoothly.
- Deep sockets: necessary for some tensioner bolts recessed into bracket. Use extension if space limited.
- Pry bar: only used for final seating if necessary; avoid levering on the tensioner body itself as you can damage the housing.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Pitfall: losing belt routing — take a photo or draw diagram before removal.
- Pitfall: releasing tensioner suddenly — control the tensioner with the tool to avoid injury and damage.
- Pitfall: incorrect torque — under-tightening leads to movement; over-tightening can strip threads or damage the tensioner. Use torque wrench and proper spec.
- Pitfall: reusing worn belt or pulleys — always inspect; replace belt when replacing tensioner (recommended) because a new tensioner on an old belt shortens service life.
- Pitfall: seized bolts — don’t round bolt heads. Use correct sockets, impact driver if needed, heat/penetrant as last resort.
- Pitfall: misaligned pulleys — check bearings and alignment; a new tensioner won’t cure a bad idler/alternator pulley.

Replacement parts recommended
- Complete tensioner assembly (preferred) or at minimum the tensioner pulley if carriage is good.
- Serpentine belt if more than ~3–5 years old or shows wear.
- Idler pulley(s) if noisy, rough, or has play.
- Replace mounting bolts only if damaged, or if OEM specifies one-time-use bolts.

Final check
- After test run, re-check bolt torque and belt seating after a short drive (10–15 minutes). Retorque if necessary.

Done.
rteeqp73

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