Isuzu D-Max 2007-2012 factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Computerised wheel balancer (static/dynamic) with appropriate shaft, cones, and adapters
- Tyre changer (if removing/mounting tyres)
- Torque wrench (capable to ~200 Nm) and correct sockets/wheel lock key
- Impact wrench (optional) and breaker bar
- Floor jack and rated jack stands, wheel chocks
- Wire brush / scouring pad and isopropyl or brake cleaner
- Valve core tool, tyre pressure gauge, air compressor
- Wheel weight pliers/crimper, hammer, scraper for old weights
- Adhesive weight primer & stick-on weights (for alloy rims) and clip-on weights (for steel rims)
- Dial indicator (for runout check) or road-force balancer (optional)
- Gloves, safety glasses
- Replacement parts on-hand: wheel weights, valve stems/cores, TPMS parts (if damaged), tyres/rims if needed

Safety first
- Park on level surface, chock opposite wheels, block transmission (P gear or handbrake).
- Use jack stands on rated points; do not rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves when spinning wheels on the balancer.
- Deflate tyres only when mounting/demounting; release pressure carefully and avoid bead damage.
- Disconnect/observe TPMS sensor handling precautions — avoid hitting sensors.

Step-by-step wheel balancing (bench balancer method)
1. Remove wheel
- Loosen lug nuts slightly before jacking.
- Jack vehicle, secure on jack stands, remove wheel. Keep wheel nuts in safe place; keep wheel lock key handy.

2. Inspect tyre & rim
- Visually inspect tyre for bulges, separations, nails, uneven wear, or tread damage. If severe, replace tyre.
- Check rim for bends, cracks, corrosion at bead seat. Replace or repair if bent/cracked.
- Check TPMS sensor condition and valve stem; replace if leaking or damaged.

3. Clean mounting surfaces
- Remove old adhesive or clip weights. Clean rim bead seat and mating surface with wire brush and solvent. Dirt/corrosion will cause mis-centering and false imbalance readings.

4. Mount on balancer properly
- Place wheel on balancer shaft using correct cones/adapters. Use hub-centric mounting where possible—center the wheel on the machine’s shaft with the cone snug against the hub mounting face.
- Tighten using the balancer’s nut or quick-release, ensuring the assembly is tight and centered. Improper centering is the most common fault.

5. Enter rim/tyre dimensions
- Input rim diameter, rim width, and offset position into balancer. If using automatic measurement, verify correctness. Wrong dimensions give incorrect weight placement.

6. Spin & read
- Close safety hood and start machine. The balancer will spin and calculate static and dynamic imbalance and display required weights and positions (e.g., outer 35 g at 2 o’clock, inner 15 g at 8 o’clock).

7. Apply weights
- For steel rims: use clip-on weights on the rim flange. Use the correct size clip, hammer them fully seats, then crimp if required.
- For alloy rims: use adhesive weights. Clean with primer, remove backing, press adhesive weights firmly into the inner ledge location indicated by the balancer. Hold pressure several seconds or use roller to ensure bonding. Use manufacturer-specified adhesive primer if recommended.
- For two-plane dynamic corrections place weights on inner and outer as indicated.
- If centering ring or offset requires, use inside/outside positions exactly as the balancer shows.

8. Re-spin to verify
- Re-spin to confirm balance. Aim for residual imbalance below the balancer’s tolerance (commonly <4–6 g static and <6–8 g dynamic). If not met, check centering and repeat.

9. Special checks if rebalancing repeatedly fails
- Check tyre runout with dial indicator or use road-force balancer. High radial/lateral runout or “pull” from tyre or bent rim may require tyre replacement or rim repair.
- Try match-mounting: align tyre’s low spot to wheel heavy spot (mark valve/spot) to reduce required weights.

10. Reinstall wheel on vehicle
- Clean hub mating surface on vehicle and wheel.
- Mount wheel, hand-start lug nuts, lower vehicle until tyre contacts ground (or torque on stands per manufacturer procedure).
- Torque lug nuts to Isuzu D-Max spec (typical factory range: ~110–140 Nm / 81–103 ft·lb — confirm with vehicle manual) in a criss-cross/star pattern.
- If using thread-lock or anti-seize, follow service manual guidance.

11. Final check
- Inflate tyre to recommended pressure.
- Road test to confirm vibration gone. If vibrations persist at certain speeds, recheck balance and inspect suspension/wheel bearings/drive components.

How the balancer/tool is used (practical notes)
- Cones/shaft: wheel must be perfectly centered on the balancer shaft. Use correct cone size; hub-centric seating beats lug-nut centering.
- Data entry: accurate rim width/diameter and offset choice (inner/outer) is critical. Many errors come from wrong width input.
- Weight placement: balancer displays degrees/clock positions and grams/ounces. Apply where indicated. For dynamic balancing there will be inner and outer values.
- Adhesive weights: need clean surface + primer for long-term hold; press/roller to ensure full contact. Don’t put adhesive weights on very sharp spokes or washout areas.
- Clip weights: pick correct profile for rim flange thickness. Clip improperly and weight will pop off.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not cleaning mating surfaces → wheel not centered → false imbalance. Clean every wheel.
- Using wrong cones / not centering wheel → repeat failures. Verify cone fit and shaft clamping torque.
- Wrong rim width/diameter input → wrong weight positions. Measure if unsure.
- Applying adhesive weights to dirty or curved surfaces → weights fall off. Use primer and proper application.
- Rebalancing damaged tyres/rims repeatedly. If required correction weight > ~60–80 g on one plane or road-force reading high, consider tyre or rim replacement.
- Ignoring TPMS sensors — hitting/removing sensor can damage it. Replace valve cores or sensors as needed.
- Over/under-torquing lug nuts. Always use torque wrench and correct pattern.
- Mounting wheel with hub-centric ring on balancer but not on vehicle (or vice versa) → mismatch centering and imbalance. Use same centering method on balancer as on vehicle.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Wheel weights (clip-on and adhesive)
- Valve cores and rubber valve stems (or TPMS valve assemblies)
- TPMS sensor or grommets (if damaged)
- Tyre(s) if tread separation, extreme wear, or excessive runout
- Rim repair or replacement if bent/cracked

When to escalate
- Persistent vibration after good balance: inspect suspension, wheel bearings, driveshaft, brake rotor runout, and alignment.
- Road-force variation or radial runout beyond spec: replace tyre or wheel.
- TPMS failure or leaks: replace sensor/valve.

Do it right: center, clean, correct data, and use correct weight type. That removes most balance problems.
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Below is a practical, technician-style procedure for wheel bearing replacement on an Isuzu D‑Max. I cover the two common scenarios: (A) sealed hub assembly replacement (most modern D‑Maxes/front hubs) and (B) pressed‑in bearing service (older/knuckle assemblies). Read safety and torque notes — always verify final torque numbers in the factory service manual for your year/model.

Tools & PPE
- Floor jack and heavy-duty jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or impact wrench (for removing wheel)
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 350 Nm)
- Socket set (metric), deep sockets including large axle nut socket (size varies by model/year)
- Ratchet and extensions
- Pry bar
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers
- Hammer and brass or plastic drift
- Punch
- Cotter pin pliers (if applicable)
- Snap ring pliers
- Hub puller / three‑jaw puller (or rotor/hub puller specific)
- Slide hammer with hub puller attachment (if hub is stuck)
- Bearing puller or hydraulic/pneumatic press and bearing driver set (for pressed bearings)
- Bearing race driver or seal driver kit
- Torque angle gauge (if needed)
- Brake caliper hanger or wire (to suspend caliper)
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner
- Clean rags
- Anti‑seize compound
- Thread locker (blue medium-strength)
- Grease (for serviceable bearings) and bearing packer (if required)
- New parts: wheel bearing/hub assembly (preferred OEM or OEM-equivalent), new axle/hub nut, new cotter pin (if applicable), new hub studs/bolts if damaged, new seals (if replacing bearings), grease

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Park on level ground, chock opposite wheels, set parking brake.
- Support vehicle on rated jack stands under manufacturer-specified lift points. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Use hearing protection if using impact tools.
- Disconnect battery if working near ABS wiring or sensors to avoid accidental damage.
- Support brake caliper to avoid hanging by brake hose.
- Keep hands away from pinch points when using presses/pullers.

General notes before starting
- Identify if the hub is a sealed hub assembly (complete hub/hub bearing unit bolted to knuckle) or a pressed-in bearing (bearing & races pressed into knuckle). Sealed units are replaced as a unit — much faster and simpler.
- Verify wheel orientation, ABS tone ring, and sensor location. Don’t damage the ABS ring or sensor.
- Check factory service manual for exact torque specs and any special procedures (e.g., preload or bearing endplay adjustment).

A. Sealed hub assembly replacement (common procedure)
1. Preparation
- Chock rear wheels, loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while vehicle on ground.
- Lift vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove wheel.

2. Remove brake caliper & rotor
- Remove caliper bolts, hang caliper with wire to avoid stress on hose.
- Remove brake rotor; if stuck, use penetrating oil and light hammer/drift on rotor face or use hub puller through rotor screw holes.

3. Remove dust cap & axle nut (if applicable)
- Remove dust cap with screwdriver or drift.
- Remove cotter pin/split pin and castle nut if present, or remove axle nut using large socket. Use breaker bar or impact (careful: don't use impact to torque final spec).

4. Disconnect ABS sensor / hub electrical connectors
- Unplug ABS sensor and unclip sensor wiring from knuckle.

5. Remove hub-to-knuckle bolts
- From back of knuckle, remove 3–4 hub assembly retaining bolts. These bolt heads may be captive or require holding with hex key. Use penetrating oil and impact or breaker as needed.

6. Extract hub assembly
- Use hub puller or slide hammer on hub. Strike evenly and pull hub straight out; avoid prying on tone ring. If stuck, heat around knuckle contact area (propane torch) to break corrosion — be careful with ABS wiring, seals, and paint.
- Remove old hub, inspect tone ring/ABS sensor for damage.

7. Clean & prep
- Clean knuckle bore of rust and debris. Remove old gasket/adhesive if any. Lightly file high spots and apply anti‑seize to hub mounting face (not to splines).
- If hub studs are removable and damaged, replace before installing new hub.

8. Install new hub assembly
- Fit new hub straight into knuckle, ensuring ABS tone ring seats correctly and sensor gap is correct.
- Install hub-to-knuckle bolts with thread locker if specified. Tighten hand-tight.

9. Torque bolts & axle nut
- Torque hub bolts to factory specification (check manual). Tighten in a star pattern if multiple bolts.
- Reinstall axle nut and torque to factory spec. If cotter pin style, torque, then align castellations by backing off or tightening slightly as required to insert new cotter pin. Replace dust cap.
- Note: Typical hub bolt torque ranges widely by model — verify exact numbers. DO NOT rely on approximate torque for final value.

10. Reinstall rotor & caliper
- Refit rotor, caliper, and torque caliper bolts to spec. Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle.
- Torque wheel lug nuts to spec in star pattern.

11. Final checks
- Spin wheel; check for smooth rotation and no binding. Test drive at low speed, listen for noise. Re-torque axle nut/hub bolts after short break-in if manufacturer recommends.

B. Pressed-in bearing replacement (knuckle contains bearing/race)
1. Disassembly up to hub removal
- Follow steps 1–4 above; remove hub/stub, leaving knuckle on vehicle or remove knuckle from vehicle for easier press work.

2. Remove bearing races & bearings
- Use snap ring pliers to remove retaining ring (if present). Use press and driver to press out inner race and bearing. If no press, use a bearing splitter and puller / slide hammer but risk damage. Clean knuckle bore thoroughly.

3. Install new races & bearings
- Heat knuckle (lightly) or cool bearings if required to aid fit. Use hydraulic press and proper bearing driver to press the bearing squarely into the knuckle to full depth; do not press on the rolling elements — press on outer race only.
- Install new inner race on axle/hub (driver set) and install new seals. Apply correct grease and pack bearings if serviceable (follow manual for grease type and quantity).
- Install new retaining ring/circlip.

4. Reassemble hub/stub & set preload
- Reinstall hub and set bearing preload or endplay per factory spec: typically tighten nut to seat bearings, then back off and set to specified torque/preload or use torque-to-yield procedure. Exact method depends on design — follow manual.
- Use new axle nut and cotter pin as required.

5. Reinstall rotor, caliper, wheel, and final torque checks as in A.

Tool use details & tips
- Hub puller: Bolts into rotor or on hub flange; tighten center bolt to push hub off shaft. Use evenly and avoid angled pull which can damage tone ring.
- Slide hammer: Attach to hub or threaded insert; deliver measured impacts to break corrosion. Protect surrounding parts.
- Hydraulic/bench press: Align hub/bearing squarely on press plates. Use correct OD driver on outer race; press slowly and evenly. Do not press on balls/rollers.
- Bearing driver set: Matches bearing outer race diameter to prevent deformation. Tap evenly with hammer while holding driver concentric.
- Bearing splitter: Use when press not available; position splitter behind race and use puller to extract. Risky and can damage knuckle if used incorrectly.
- Torque wrench: Use for final torques only; don’t use impact gun to finish torque-critical fasteners. If factory requires torque + angle, use torque angle gauge.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not checking torque specs — under/over-torque causes bearing failure or hub damage.
- Using impact wrench to final torque on axle nut or hub bolts.
- Damaging ABS tone ring or sensor; small nicks cause wheel speed errors.
- Reusing axle/hub nut or cotter pin — always replace cotter pins and consider new nuts if torque-to-yield or damaged.
- Not cleaning mating surfaces (knuckle/hub face) — leads to misalignment and noise.
- Pressing on wrong part of bearing (pressing on rollers instead of race) — destroys bearings.
- Not setting bearing preload/endplay correctly — causes overheating and early failure.
- Not replacing seals or contaminating bearings with dirt or brake fluid/solvent.
- Not supporting caliper — stress to hose can cause leaks.
- Not checking CV axle splines — corroded splines may make hub installation difficult.

Parts required (typical)
- Front: sealed hub bearing assembly OR inner/outer bearings, races, seals, circlips (model-dependent)
- Axle/hub nut (replace), cotter pin (replace)
- Hub bolts/studs (if worn or damaged)
- ABS sensor (if damaged)
- Grease (specified type), thread locker, anti-seize

Final verification
- After reassembly, torque wheels to spec. Road test with progressive speeds and recheck for noise, play, and re-torque critical fasteners after 50–100 km if recommended.

Bottom line: if the hub is a sealed unit, replace the unit (simpler, more reliable). If bearings are pressed, use a press and correct drivers, and follow factory preload procedures exactly. Always confirm all torque numbers and preload methods from the Isuzu D‑Max factory service manual for your exact year and axle.
rteeqp73

Ordered, theory-focused explanation of timing-belt replacement on an Isuzu D‑Max (general diesel/petrol engines). Steps are written in order; after each step I state the engineering reason (theory) and how that part of the repair fixes the fault.

1) Safety & preparation
- What you do: Disconnect battery, secure vehicle on level ground, chock wheels, raise car if needed and support on stands, gather tools, shop manual, replacement parts (belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump if driven by belt).
- Theory / why: Prevents accidental cranking or electrical faults and provides stable, safe working conditions. Having the correct parts avoids repeating the job and ensures components with matched wear/resistance are installed.
- How this fixes the fault: Prevents electrical damage and ensures you’re using parts that restore correct geometry and tension so timing is reliably re-established.

2) Remove obstructing components to expose timing cover
- What you do: Remove engine covers, accessory belts, crank pulley/harmonic balancer, and timing cover(s) to access belt and sprockets.
- Theory / why: The timing belt and sprockets are hidden behind components; removal gives visual access to alignment marks and replacement clearance.
- How this fixes the fault: Allows correct inspection and access so the belt can be replaced and timing set precisely.

3) Set engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) on cylinder 1 and document timing marks
- What you do: Rotate the crank to TDC on the compression stroke (use crank bolt/pulley marks); verify cam sprocket/camshaft marks align to their reference marks; make paint/marker alignment marks on cam and crank if needed.
- Theory / why: The belt synchronizes crankshaft rotation (piston position) with camshaft rotation (valve timing). TDC on #1 compression stroke is the reference point for correct valve/piston phasing.
- How this fixes the fault: Ensures the new belt is fitted with the cam and crank in correct relative positions so valves open/close at the correct piston positions—restores correct valve timing and combustion timing, correcting misfires, rough idle, loss of power.

4) Lock cams/crank (if required) and relieve belt tension
- What you do: Use locking tools or hold the cam/crank positions; release or loosen the tensioner to remove belt tension.
- Theory / why: Locks prevent sprockets from drifting while you remove the belt; the tensioner keeps the belt tight during operation and must be relaxed for belt removal.
- How this fixes the fault: Prevents accidental rotor/cam movement that would change timing and potentially cause piston/valve contact; controlled tension release avoids damage to components.

5) Remove and inspect the belt and auxiliary components
- What you do: Remove the timing belt and inspect belt teeth, backing, tensioner, idler bearings, water pump, seals, cam/crank sprockets for wear/contamination.
- Theory / why: Belt wear (cracked teeth, glazing, oil contamination), worn tensioner or idlers, or a corroded water pump will undermine belt function. The belt transmits positive tooth engagement; idlers maintain alignment and tensioner gives preload/damping.
- How this fixes the fault: Identifying and replacing failing auxiliary parts prevents repeat failure—if only the belt is replaced but the tensioner or pump is bad, the problem will recur. New components restore geometry, smooth operation, and correct preload.

6) Replace tensioner, idlers, and water pump as required
- What you do: Install new tensioner, idler pulleys, and water pump (if it’s belt-driven or old).
- Theory / why: Tensioners use a spring/damper to apply the right belt tension and accommodate thermal/elastic variation; idlers keep belt tracking and correct wrap angles; a failing water pump can seize or leak oil/coolant onto the belt.
- How this fixes the fault: New parts restore designed tension, damping and alignment; replacing the pump prevents contaminant leaks or seizure that would ruin the new belt.

7) Fit the new timing belt with correct tooth engagement, following routing and alignment marks
- What you do: Position the belt on the crank sprocket and cam sprockets keeping the marked alignment, ensuring there is no slack on the tensioned side (follow the specific engine’s routing and tensioner pre-load steps).
- Theory / why: The belt’s teeth must sit fully in sprocket grooves so the cam/crank relation is fixed. The “tensioned side” and “slack side” concept ensures the belt carries load properly; incorrect slack causes jump or inaccurate phasing.
- How this fixes the fault: A correctly seated belt transmits torque without skipping teeth, so valve timing remains stable; this eliminates timing-related symptoms like misfires, loss of power, and stalling.

8) Set tension correctly (initial and final) and torque fasteners to spec
- What you do: Adjust the automatic or manual tensioner per the service procedure (specific preload or deflection measurement), then torque pulley and cover bolts to spec.
- Theory / why: Correct belt tension prevents tooth jumping (too loose) and premature wear or bearing load (too tight). Tension also affects belt damping and life. Proper torque prevents bolt loosening that would allow sprocket movement.
- How this fixes the fault: Proper tension and secure fasteners keep phase relationship stable under load and temperature cycles—fixes slipping, uneven wear, and prevents catastrophic timing loss.

9) Rotate engine by hand at least two full revolutions and recheck timing marks/clearance
- What you do: Using a socket on the crank, rotate the engine two full turns, then re-verify that timing marks return to TDC and check valve/piston clearance (especially on interference engines) and belt tension.
- Theory / why: Rotating checks that the cam/crank remain synchronized under load and that there is no interference (valve-to-piston contact). It also seats the belt on sprockets and equalizes tension.
- How this fixes the fault: Confirms installation correctness before starting the engine; detecting misalignment here prevents immediate engine damage if a tooth jumped or a component was misinstalled.

10) Reassemble ancillaries, refill fluids (if drained), reconnect battery, start engine and monitor
- What you do: Reinstall covers, belts, crank pulley; refill coolant/oil if removed; start engine and listen for abnormal noises, check idle, coolant temp, and any diagnostic trouble codes.
- Theory / why: A properly timed engine will run smoothly; abnormal noises (ticking, whine) may indicate tensioner/idler or misalignment issues; checking fluids ensures no leaks were introduced during the job.
- How this fixes the fault: Restores normal fuel/air timing and combustion so performance, economy and emissions return to designed values. Observing operation confirms the underlying cause (belt/tensioner/idler/waterpump) is resolved.

11) Final verification and road test
- What you do: After warm-up, do a controlled road test to check drivability, acceleration, and absence of misfires or hesitation; recheck coolant and oil levels and torque after heat cycles if required by manual.
- Theory / why: Loads and RPM variations reveal timing stability and belt behavior under real conditions.
- How this fixes the fault: Verifies the repair under operational conditions; if intermittent issues persist, further diagnosis (ignition/injection timing, sensors, compression) may be needed.

Why the repair fixes the common timing-belt faults (theory summary)
- Faults: belt tooth wear, belt stretch, oil/coolant contamination, tensioner/idler seizure or wear, water pump failure, skipped teeth.
- Mechanics: The timing belt enforces a fixed angular relationship between crankshaft and camshafts. Worn/contaminated belts or failed tensioners allow slack or slippage; a slipped belt changes valve timing relative to piston position causing misfires, rough running, loss of power, or no-start. On interference engines, a slipped or broken belt lets valves contact pistons causing bent valves, piston damage, or head damage.
- Repair effect: Replacing the belt restores tooth geometry and engagement; replacing tensioner/idlers restores correct preload and damping; replacing water pump removes a common contamination/seizure source. Together they re-establish precise phasing, eliminate slip, and restore normal combustion timing and mechanical clearances.

Key failure modes to avoid and their consequences
- Incorrect timing alignment -> immediate performance loss or catastrophic valve/piston impact.
- Insufficient or excessive tension -> rapid belt wear, noise, skipped teeth, bearing failure.
- Reusing a worn tensioner or water pump -> repeat failure soon after replacement.
- Not rotating and rechecking -> missed misinstallation leading to engine damage on start.

Practical notes (concise)
- Many Isuzu D‑Max engines are interference designs; a broken or skipped timing belt can cause major internal damage—do not skip checks.
- Replace tensioner/idlers and water pump with the belt as a kit where possible.
- Follow the vehicle-specific service manual for exact mark positions, tension procedure and torque specs.
- Observe recommended replacement interval (manufacturer schedule) to avoid failure.

This is the ordered theory and reasoned justification for each step.
rteeqp73