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Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual download
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on PDF can be viewed using free PDF reader like adobe , or foxit or nitro . It is compressed as a zip file which you can extract with 7zip File size 101 Mb Searchable PDF document with bookmarks.
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Tools & consumables
- New oil filter (cartridge or spin‑on depending on year/model) — OEM or high‑quality aftermarket.
- New filter housing O‑ring(s) (cartridge type) and/or new oil filter gasket if spin‑on. Replace crush/drain washer if required.
- Engine oil (correct grade & capacity per owner’s manual).
- Oil drain pan.
- 1/2" drive ratchet + appropriate extension.
- Oil filter cap socket (commonly 64 mm, 14‑flute on many Kia/Huyndai cartridge housings) or adjustable oil‑filter cap wrench. If vehicle has a spin‑on filter use an adjustable strap or cup style filter wrench sized to the filter.
- Torque wrench (to final torque for filter cap / drain plug).
- Socket set for drain plug (usually 17 mm or 19 mm; verify).
- Jack and jack stands or ramps; wheel chocks.
- Disposable gloves, rags, funnel.
- Safety glasses, drip trays, absorbent pads.
- Optional: breaker bar (if stuck), gasket pick or small screwdriver to remove old O‑ring.
Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface. Engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- If the engine is hot, let it cool ~15–30 minutes to avoid scalding; oil drains quicker when warm but not scalding hot.
- Use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear gloves and eye protection; hot oil can cause severe burns.
- Dispose of used oil and filter at a recycling center.
Which filter type?
- Older Sedona/Carnival models often use a spin‑on oil filter under the engine.
- Most recent models use a top‑mounted cartridge filter inside a plastic housing with a removable cap (cap socket commonly 64 mm/14‑flute). Confirm by looking at the engine: cartridge = plastic cap on top/side of engine; spin‑on = cylinder screwed into block.
Step‑by‑step — cartridge (top) style
1. Prepare: Warm engine ~5–10 min (not scalding). Park, chock wheels, open hood.
2. Locate housing: plastic cap with 6–12 flats or 14‑flute ring. Place drain pan under engine.
3. Remove oil filler cap to speed drain/venting.
4. Drain oil: jack car and support on stands if needed to access drain plug. Remove drain plug and drain into pan. Replace drain plug and torque to spec when draining complete. (If you prefer to remove filter first, you can; but always drain most oil out first.)
5. Position pan under filter housing to catch residual oil.
6. Fit oil‑filter cap socket/strap wrench to filter cap. Break loose counterclockwise with ratchet/breaker bar. Remove cap carefully — expect oil to spill from housing.
7. Pull old cartridge out; remove and discard old large O‑ring on the cap and any small O‑ring(s) on the housing. Inspect housing for debris.
8. Install new O‑ring(s): lightly coat each new O‑ring with fresh engine oil and seat in groove(s) on cap/housing. Lubrication prevents pinching and ensures seal.
9. Insert new cartridge into housing (correct orientation). Reinstall cap by hand until seated; then tighten with torque wrench to manufacturer spec. If you don’t have spec, snug by hand then final torque ~20–30 Nm (15–22 ft‑lb) is common — check service manual.
10. Refill engine with correct amount and grade of oil via filler neck. Use funnel to avoid spills.
11. Start engine, run ~30–60 seconds, check for leaks around filter cap and drain plug. Stop engine, wait a few minutes, check oil level and top to center on dipstick.
12. Reset oil life indicator if present. Dispose used oil/filter properly.
Step‑by‑step — spin‑on filter
1. Warm engine slightly, park on level surface, chock wheels, jack/stand if needed.
2. Place drain pan under filter area. Remove oil filler cap.
3. Break loose drain plug, drain oil, reinstall and torque when nearly drained.
4. Remove spin‑on filter: use strap or cup wrench, turn counterclockwise. Expect oil to spill; keep pan under.
5. Clean mounting surface; remove old gasket if stuck.
6. Lightly oil the new filter gasket with fresh oil. Thread new filter by hand until gasket contacts, then tighten additional 3/4–1 full turn (or torque to spec if available).
7. Refill engine with correct oil, start and check for leaks, verify level after a few minutes and top if needed.
How the tools are used (details)
- Oil‑filter cap socket: slips over the cap and engages flats/flutes. Use a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension to break loose/tighten. Use a torque wrench for final torque.
- Strap/chain wrench: wraps around the filter; pull handle to rotate filter counterclockwise. Good when clearance prevents cap sockets.
- Cup filter wrench: fits over end of spin‑on filter; use ratchet drive to remove.
- Torque wrench: set to specified Nm or ft‑lb for oil filter cap and drain plug to avoid over‑tightening and damage.
- Funnel: use when refilling to avoid spills; keep funnel clean.
Replacement parts required
- New oil filter (cartridge or spin‑on).
- New O‑ring(s) for cartridge filter cap (always replace).
- New drain plug crush washer if applicable.
- Correct amount & grade of engine oil.
- Optionally: new drain plug if threads damaged, new filter housing cap if cracked.
Common pitfalls / what to avoid
- Not replacing O‑ring(s) — leads to leaks. Always use new, lubricated O‑rings.
- Over‑tightening the cap or spin‑on filter — plastic housings strip and metal threads can be damaged. Use torque wrench to spec.
- Cross‑threading the filter or cap — start by hand and ensure correct alignment.
- Forgetting to reinstall drain plug or tightening it incorrectly — causes leaks or stripped threads.
- Not cleaning the sealing surface — old gasket residue prevents seal.
- Using wrong filter or wrong oil — may not fit or meet specs.
- Failing to check for leaks after start-up — small leaks can become big problems.
- Rushing while oil is hot — risk of burns.
Final checks
- After refill and start, check under car for leaks for several minutes.
- Recheck oil level after engine has run and settled (~5 minutes).
- Record oil change date, mileage, and reset oil change indicator per owner’s manual.
That’s it — follow owner’s manual torque, oil grade and capacity for your specific Carnival/Sedona year and engine.
rteeqp73
- New oil filter (cartridge or spin‑on depending on year/model) — OEM or high‑quality aftermarket.
- New filter housing O‑ring(s) (cartridge type) and/or new oil filter gasket if spin‑on. Replace crush/drain washer if required.
- Engine oil (correct grade & capacity per owner’s manual).
- Oil drain pan.
- 1/2" drive ratchet + appropriate extension.
- Oil filter cap socket (commonly 64 mm, 14‑flute on many Kia/Huyndai cartridge housings) or adjustable oil‑filter cap wrench. If vehicle has a spin‑on filter use an adjustable strap or cup style filter wrench sized to the filter.
- Torque wrench (to final torque for filter cap / drain plug).
- Socket set for drain plug (usually 17 mm or 19 mm; verify).
- Jack and jack stands or ramps; wheel chocks.
- Disposable gloves, rags, funnel.
- Safety glasses, drip trays, absorbent pads.
- Optional: breaker bar (if stuck), gasket pick or small screwdriver to remove old O‑ring.
Safety first
- Work on a flat, level surface. Engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- If the engine is hot, let it cool ~15–30 minutes to avoid scalding; oil drains quicker when warm but not scalding hot.
- Use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear gloves and eye protection; hot oil can cause severe burns.
- Dispose of used oil and filter at a recycling center.
Which filter type?
- Older Sedona/Carnival models often use a spin‑on oil filter under the engine.
- Most recent models use a top‑mounted cartridge filter inside a plastic housing with a removable cap (cap socket commonly 64 mm/14‑flute). Confirm by looking at the engine: cartridge = plastic cap on top/side of engine; spin‑on = cylinder screwed into block.
Step‑by‑step — cartridge (top) style
1. Prepare: Warm engine ~5–10 min (not scalding). Park, chock wheels, open hood.
2. Locate housing: plastic cap with 6–12 flats or 14‑flute ring. Place drain pan under engine.
3. Remove oil filler cap to speed drain/venting.
4. Drain oil: jack car and support on stands if needed to access drain plug. Remove drain plug and drain into pan. Replace drain plug and torque to spec when draining complete. (If you prefer to remove filter first, you can; but always drain most oil out first.)
5. Position pan under filter housing to catch residual oil.
6. Fit oil‑filter cap socket/strap wrench to filter cap. Break loose counterclockwise with ratchet/breaker bar. Remove cap carefully — expect oil to spill from housing.
7. Pull old cartridge out; remove and discard old large O‑ring on the cap and any small O‑ring(s) on the housing. Inspect housing for debris.
8. Install new O‑ring(s): lightly coat each new O‑ring with fresh engine oil and seat in groove(s) on cap/housing. Lubrication prevents pinching and ensures seal.
9. Insert new cartridge into housing (correct orientation). Reinstall cap by hand until seated; then tighten with torque wrench to manufacturer spec. If you don’t have spec, snug by hand then final torque ~20–30 Nm (15–22 ft‑lb) is common — check service manual.
10. Refill engine with correct amount and grade of oil via filler neck. Use funnel to avoid spills.
11. Start engine, run ~30–60 seconds, check for leaks around filter cap and drain plug. Stop engine, wait a few minutes, check oil level and top to center on dipstick.
12. Reset oil life indicator if present. Dispose used oil/filter properly.
Step‑by‑step — spin‑on filter
1. Warm engine slightly, park on level surface, chock wheels, jack/stand if needed.
2. Place drain pan under filter area. Remove oil filler cap.
3. Break loose drain plug, drain oil, reinstall and torque when nearly drained.
4. Remove spin‑on filter: use strap or cup wrench, turn counterclockwise. Expect oil to spill; keep pan under.
5. Clean mounting surface; remove old gasket if stuck.
6. Lightly oil the new filter gasket with fresh oil. Thread new filter by hand until gasket contacts, then tighten additional 3/4–1 full turn (or torque to spec if available).
7. Refill engine with correct oil, start and check for leaks, verify level after a few minutes and top if needed.
How the tools are used (details)
- Oil‑filter cap socket: slips over the cap and engages flats/flutes. Use a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension to break loose/tighten. Use a torque wrench for final torque.
- Strap/chain wrench: wraps around the filter; pull handle to rotate filter counterclockwise. Good when clearance prevents cap sockets.
- Cup filter wrench: fits over end of spin‑on filter; use ratchet drive to remove.
- Torque wrench: set to specified Nm or ft‑lb for oil filter cap and drain plug to avoid over‑tightening and damage.
- Funnel: use when refilling to avoid spills; keep funnel clean.
Replacement parts required
- New oil filter (cartridge or spin‑on).
- New O‑ring(s) for cartridge filter cap (always replace).
- New drain plug crush washer if applicable.
- Correct amount & grade of engine oil.
- Optionally: new drain plug if threads damaged, new filter housing cap if cracked.
Common pitfalls / what to avoid
- Not replacing O‑ring(s) — leads to leaks. Always use new, lubricated O‑rings.
- Over‑tightening the cap or spin‑on filter — plastic housings strip and metal threads can be damaged. Use torque wrench to spec.
- Cross‑threading the filter or cap — start by hand and ensure correct alignment.
- Forgetting to reinstall drain plug or tightening it incorrectly — causes leaks or stripped threads.
- Not cleaning the sealing surface — old gasket residue prevents seal.
- Using wrong filter or wrong oil — may not fit or meet specs.
- Failing to check for leaks after start-up — small leaks can become big problems.
- Rushing while oil is hot — risk of burns.
Final checks
- After refill and start, check under car for leaks for several minutes.
- Recheck oil level after engine has run and settled (~5 minutes).
- Record oil change date, mileage, and reset oil change indicator per owner’s manual.
That’s it — follow owner’s manual torque, oil grade and capacity for your specific Carnival/Sedona year and engine.
rteeqp73
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