Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual download

Straight, practical guide for replacing an output-shaft (axle) seal on a Kia Carnival / Sedona for a beginner mechanic. Includes theory, every component you will touch, step-by-step procedure, tips, what can go wrong and safety notes. Read fully before you start.

Summary / theory (why this repair is needed)
- The output-shaft/axle seal (often called the transmission or transaxle output seal or axle seal) sits where the rotating half‑shaft (CV axle) exits the transmission/transaxle. Its job is to keep transmission/transaxle fluid inside while letting the shaft rotate.
- Think of it like the rubber washer in a faucet: the shaft is the faucet stem and the seal is the washer. If the washer hardens/cracks, water leaks and pressure/flow suffer; similarly a bad seal lets gear oil leak out, causing low fluid, overheating, poor lubrication and eventual transmission damage.
- Seals wear from heat, age, contaminated fluid, torn CV boots (contamination travels) or from installation damage. Replace the seal before fluid loss causes internal damage.

Major components — what each one is and what it does
- Wheel and wheel studs: wheel is removed to access brakes/hub.
- Brake caliper and pads: clamp onto rotor. Must be removed or moved aside.
- Brake rotor (disc): mounts to hub.
- Wheel hub / knuckle assembly: holds wheel bearing and hub studs; axle passes through hub.
- Wheel bearing: supports hub; spacing/torque matters when reinstalling.
- CV axle / halfshaft: transmits torque from transaxle to wheel. Has outer and inner CV joints and splines that engage the transaxle or differential.
- Axle nut (and retainer/cotter pin if present): Secures axle to hub.
- Outer CV joint boot / inner CV boot: keep grease in CV joints; if torn, contamination can accelerate wear and seal failure.
- Axle snap ring / circlip (on some designs): small ring at inner shaft that locks the axle into the transaxle bore when inserted.
- Transaxle/transmission output housing: where the seal sits; contains fluid and rotating gearsets.
- Output-shaft (axle) seal: rubber/metal ring pressed into the transaxle housing; inner lip rides on the axle to hold fluid.
- ABS tone ring and wheel-speed sensor (possibly nearby): watch these when removing hub components.
- Seals, bolts, dust shields, and retaining clips are small but important.

Tools, parts & consumables (minimum)
- Service manual or OEM torque specs and fluid type (must consult for exact torques/fluid).
- Jack & sturdy jack stands (not just a jack).
- Wheel chocks, wheel brace.
- Socket set (including large socket for axle nut — size varies by model), breaker bar, torque wrench.
- Hex/Allen/torx bits, wrenches, pliers.
- Pry bar, flat screwdriver, seal puller, pick set.
- Hammer, rubber mallet, punch.
- Seal driver or appropriately sized socket (to drive new seal flush).
- Axle puller/slide hammer or hub puller (if axle stuck).
- Drain pan, rags, brake cleaner.
- New output shaft seal (OEM or high-quality aftermarket), possibly new axle nut, new cotter pin if used.
- Transmission/transaxle fluid of correct type and amount (check manual).
- Anti-seize, grease for splines, thread locker if manual specifies.
- Safety gloves, eye protection.

Preparation & safety (non-negotiable)
- Work on level ground, chock opposite wheels, engage parking brake.
- Use jack stands under solid lift points — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Have a fire extinguisher and absorbent for spills.
- Clean work area to avoid losing small parts.

Step-by-step procedure (general; adapt for your year/model)
Important: exact bolt locations, removal sequences and torque specs differ by year and configuration. Use the factory manual for those specifics.

1) Preliminary: loosen axle nut on the ground
- Slightly loosen (not remove) the axle nut while vehicle is on the ground so the wheel can’t spin. This often requires a strong breaker bar and correct large socket.

2) Lift vehicle and remove wheel
- Raise vehicle, safely secure on jack stands, remove wheel.

3) Remove brake caliper and rotor
- Unbolt caliper slide bolts and hang caliper with wire or bungee; do NOT let it hang by the brake hose.
- Remove rotor. If stuck, tap with rubber mallet.

4) Remove hub/axle retaining hardware
- Remove any dust cap, cotter pin, and retaining cap from axle nut assembly if present.
- Fully remove axle nut.
- On some models you remove the hub bearing assembly bolts to access/withdraw the axle; on others you can pull the axle out through the hub without removing the bearing. Follow the vehicle’s layout.

5) Free the axle from the hub
- With the axle nut removed, you may need to separate the axle from the hub. Use a hub puller, or strike the hub (not the axle) to shock it loose. Do NOT hammer the CV joint directly.
- If the axle is splined into the hub and stuck, use a slide hammer or disconnect lower ball joint/strut to allow the knuckle to move and free the shaft.

6) Disconnect inner CV from transaxle
- Pry the inner CV shaft out of the transaxle carefully using a pry bar between the transaxle casing and the inner CV joint housing. Expect some fluid to leak — have a drain pan.
- On designs with a snap ring/circlip, the axle will unclip and come out once you pull it past the retainer. Support the transaxle slightly if you need to move or avoid stressing mounts.

7) Inspect removed axle and components
- Check inner and outer CV boots for tears or grease loss. Replace axle if CV joints are worn or boots torn.
- Inspect splines for wear, rust, or nicks.

8) Remove old output shaft seal
- Clean area around seal. Use a seal puller or small pry tool to remove the old seal. Work evenly; take care not to scratch or gouge the metal bore/edge.
- Note orientation — the lip faces the fluid (i.e., the open mouth faces the fluid inside the transaxle).

9) Clean and inspect bore and shaft
- Clean the bore thoroughly, remove sludge, metal flakes. Inspect shaft surface where seal lip rides — it must be smooth. If shaft is deeply scored, seal may fail again; shaft repair or replacement required.

10) Install new output shaft seal
- Lightly lubricate the new seal lip with the correct transmission fluid (not grease). This prevents dry start-up wear.
- Align the seal square to the bore and drive it evenly using a seal driver or a socket whose face matches the outer ring. Drive until the seal is flush (or to specified depth). Don’t cock or tilt the seal.
- Verify correct orientation: sealing lip toward fluid; spring (if present) faces outward or inward as per new seal design (flip if unsure — check packaging/instructions).

11) Reinstall axle into transaxle
- If there is a circlip, push the axle into the transaxle until you hear/feel it engage. Some resistance is normal. Make sure it seats fully.
- You may need to rotate the inner CV joint slightly to align splines.

12) Re-engage axle into hub and reassemble
- Slide axle back into hub; reinstall rotor, caliper, and any hub nut retainer.
- Torque axle nut to manufacturer’s specification — this is critical. If you overtighten, you can damage wheel bearings; undertighten can cause play and premature wear. If the hub used a cotter pin, insert a new one.

13) Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
- Torque lug nuts to spec.

14) Refill/check transaxle fluid
- Because some fluid leaked when you pulled the axle, you must top up to the correct level and type. With vehicle level and warm (if required by procedure), fill via dipstick/fill hole to proper level per service manual.
- Some transaxles require checking level at operating temperature — follow manual.

15) Test & check for leaks
- Start engine, rev lightly, check for leaks at new seal and around axle.
- Short low-speed test drive; recheck fluid level and for leaks again.

Helpful tips, do’s and don’ts
- Do NOT install the seal backwards. The lip side always faces the fluid.
- Do lubricate the seal lip with the proper fluid before installation.
- Don’t use RTV or gasket sealers here — they’re not needed and can gum up the lip.
- Don’t bend or notch the bore edge when removing old seal — a nick will rip the new seal.
- If the axle’s shaft surface is rusty or scored, polish lightly with very fine emery or replace the axle — a rough surface will cut the seal lip.
- Always replace any cotter pin, and consider replacing the axle nut if damaged.
- If boot(s) are torn, replace CV boot or whole axle; a new seal will fail quickly if contaminated.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Installing the seal backward → immediate leak. Avoid by confirming seal orientation before driving.
- Damaging the bore or shaft during removal → new seal will leak; use proper tools and clean work.
- Not seating seal flush / cocking the seal → partial contact causes leak and rapid wear.
- Overtightening axle nut → bearing preload out of spec → noisy/worn bearing. Use torque wrench and correct spec.
- Forgetting to refill fluid → low fluid causes overheating and transmission damage. Always top up and check level after.
- Not replacing torn CV boots / worn axle → contaminates seal and causes repeated failure.
- Dangling brake hose damage or over-stressing tie-rod/ball joint when separating hub → support components and do controlled disassembly.
- Safety: failing to use jack stands can kill — always use stands.

Troubleshooting after replacement
- If leak persists: ensure seal installed correct orientation and fully seated; inspect shaft for scoring; check that the seal matches part number/size; check for cracks or cast burrs on the housing.
- If a grinding noise after reassembly: check wheel bearing preload/axle nut torque; ensure rotor is seated; check caliper slides.
- If fluid level drops again quickly: internal gearbox damage or incorrect seal — inspect internal output flange and surrounding for damage.

Final checks
- After a few miles, re-torque wheel and axle nut if manual suggests checking after heat cycle.
- Check fluid level after warm-up and short drive.
- Reinspect for leaks after first few drives.

Notes about model specifics
- Exact axle-nut size, bolt patterns, torque specs, transaxle fluid type and fill procedure vary by year and engine/transmission code on Kia Carnival/Sedona. Always cross-check OEM service manual or reliable online repair database for your vehicle’s model year before final torques and fluid choices. Typical axle nut torques for many FWD cars are high (often 150–250 ft-lbs), but do not use a generic number — confirm for your vehicle.

Quick checklist before you start
- New seal (right part), correct fluid, adequate tools, service manual info, jack stands, drain pan, clean rags.

That’s the full practical walkthrough. Follow the safety steps, confirm model-specific torques and fluid, and replace any obviously damaged components (CV boots/axle) while you’re in there.
rteeqp73

Kia Sedona aka Kia Carnival 2006 to 2014 Frequent and common problems, defects and complaints Kia Sedona aka Kia Carnival 2006 to 2014 Frequent and common problems, defects and complaints. About Us ...

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- Safety first
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before you start to avoid electrical shorts and accidental cranking.
- Work with a completely cool engine to avoid burns.
- Wear nitrile or mechanic’s gloves, eye protection, and avoid inhaling cleaners (work in a well-ventilated area).
- Keep fire extinguisher nearby if you’ll be using flammable cleaners.

- What the job means (short)
- “EGR valve” = Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve; it recirculates a portion of exhaust gases into the intake to reduce NOx and emissions.
- Typical tasks: locate the EGR, remove it, inspect/clean the valve and passages, test operation, and replace the valve or gasket if defective.

- Tools you need (basic toolkit + detailed use of each)
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm sockets recommended)
- Use with the ratchet to remove bolts holding the EGR and any brackets. Choose the correct socket size to avoid rounding bolts.
- Use extensions to reach recessed bolts; a wobble socket helps for slightly off-angle bolts.
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- Provides leverage to remove and tighten bolts. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Useful where a socket won’t fit. Use the box end for better grip on stubborn bolts.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Remove hose clamps, electrical connectors that use clips, and any small screws. Use correct tip to avoid camming out.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- Disconnect vacuum lines, hose clamps, and electrical clips. Needle-nose helps with tight connectors.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 5–50 Nm range recommended)
- Use to tighten EGR bolts/gasket to manufacturer torque spec to avoid leaks or stripped bolts. If you don’t have one, tighten snugly and then by a small fraction of a turn—using a torque wrench is safer.
- Wire brush (brass or stainless)
- Scrape carbon from the EGR valve seat and passages. Brass is less likely to damage mating surfaces.
- Gasket scraper or plastic scraper
- Remove old gasket material without gouging surfaces. Plastic reduces risk of damage.
- EGR / throttle-body cleaner (spray can)
- Breaks down carbon deposits. Spray into valve and passages; let soak and brush. Use only cleaners labeled for EGR/throttle parts (avoid chlorinated brake cleaners on certain materials).
- Clean shop rags and disposable paper towels
- Wipe carbon and cleaner residues; keep area clean.
- Replacement gasket(s)
- EGR valve usually seals with a thin paper/metal gasket—replace rather than reusing.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40 or PB Blaster)
- Soak rusty or seized bolts to prevent rounding or snapping when removing.
- Small vacuum pump with gauge (recommended; manual hand pump ~–)
- If the EGR valve is vacuum-operated, use this to apply vacuum and watch valve movement to test for sticking and hold.
- Multimeter (recommended)
- Used to test electrical EGR solenoids or position sensors: check power, ground, and resistance per spec.
- Safety chocks and jack stands (if required for access)
- If you need to raise the vehicle for access, use quality jack stands on solid ground; never work only on a jack.

- Extra/recommended tools and why
- Torque wrench: prevents over- or under-tightening which can cause leaks or snapped bolts.
- Vacuum pump: directly tests vacuum-actuated EGRs to confirm valve movement under load.
- Multimeter: checks continuity/resistance/voltage of solenoids or sensors; differentiates electrical faults from a mechanical one.
- Small mirror and flashlight: helps inspect hard-to-see carbon buildup in passages.

- Parts you may need and why
- EGR valve assembly (OE or equivalent aftermarket)
- Replace if valve is cracked, stuck closed/open, diaphragm or solenoid is failed, or electrical tests out of spec. Symptoms: rough idle, reduced fuel economy, check-engine light (P0401/P0402/P0405 etc).
- EGR gasket(s)
- Always replace when you remove the valve to ensure proper sealing and prevent exhaust leaks.
- Mounting bolts (if corroded or stripped)
- Replace any rounded or rusted bolts—cheaper and safer than risking a snapped bolt.
- EGR cooler (if equipped) or associated hoses
- On some diesel models, the cooler can clog or leak and may need replacement.
- EGR solenoid or position sensor
- If electrical tests fail, replace the faulty component.

- General notes about parts to buy
- Buy the correct part for your exact year and engine (Carnival / Sedona engines vary). Use VIN or exact model year when ordering.
- OEM parts are usually more reliable for emissions components; aftermarket units vary in quality.

- Step-by-step procedure (general, for a beginner; follow each safety step)
- Prepare: park on level ground, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery, let engine cool fully.
- Locate: find the EGR valve on the engine—usually mounted on the intake manifold or near the throttle body; diesel models may have additional piping and cooler.
- Clear working area: remove any intake ducting, engine cover, or obstructions using screwdrivers and sockets so you can see the EGR flange and connectors.
- Document connectors/hoses: take photos or note where vacuum hoses and electrical plugs go so you can reattach correctly.
- Disconnect electrical connector(s) and vacuum lines: use needle-nose pliers to gently free hose clamps; press release tabs on connectors—never yank wires.
- Loosen and remove mounting bolts: spray penetrating oil if bolts appear corroded, let soak, then use correct socket or wrench. Keep bolts and new gasket together.
- Remove EGR valve: pull straight off the flange; some carbon adhesion is normal—gently pry with a plastic scraper if needed.
- Inspect valve and passages: look for heavy carbon build-up, broken parts, or a stuck pintle/diaphragm.
- Clean valve and passages (if you plan to reuse valve)
- Spray EGR cleaner into the valve cavity and intake/exhaust passages. Let soak per product instructions.
- Use brass wire brush and rags to remove carbon until mating surfaces are clean. Do not push large chunks down into intake—catch with rags.
- For vacuum valves: operate the valve manually or with vacuum pump while cleaning to free stuck movement.
- Avoid damaging valve seats and sealing surfaces—scrape gently.
- Test valve operation
- Vacuum-actuated: attach hand vacuum pump, apply vacuum and watch valve open/hold; if it doesn’t hold or move smoothly, replace valve.
- Electronic: use multimeter to check solenoid resistance and wiring for proper voltage when the car is commanded (refer to service manual values). If unresponsive, replacement likely.
- Replace gasket and reinstall
- Fit new gasket on flange, position valve, start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern; use a torque wrench to manufacturer spec if available.
- Reconnect vacuum hoses and electrical connectors.
- Reassemble removed components: reinstall intake ducts and engine cover.
- Reconnect battery and start engine: check for leaks, rough idle, or check-engine light.
- Test drive and monitor: clear codes (if you have a scanner) and drive to see if fault returns; recheck for vacuum/electrical faults if problems persist.

- How to tell if cleaning is enough versus replacement
- Replace the EGR valve if any of these are true:
- Valve does not move with vacuum/guided electrical command or does not hold vacuum.
- Electrical tests show open/shorted solenoid or bad sensor readings out of spec.
- Valve body is cracked, heavily corroded, or seat surfaces are damaged.
- Recurring failures shortly after cleaning or check engine light returns immediately.
- Cleaning can help if valve sticks due to carbon but otherwise tests OK mechanically and electrically.

- Common pitfalls and tips
- Don’t force stuck bolts—apply penetrating oil and let it soak; use proper socket size and leverage.
- Avoid pushing carbon into the intake; place rags to catch debris.
- Replace gaskets every time you remove the valve to avoid exhaust leaks.
- If a bolt snaps, do not apply excessive heat without knowing adjacent components; a snapped bolt may require extraction tools or professional help.
- If you lack a torque wrench or vacuum pump, you can still do the job but testing/reliable tightening is harder—recommended to borrow or buy the tools.

- Final checks
- Verify no vacuum leaks, secure connectors, and that the engine runs smoothly.
- Use an OBD-II scanner to read/clear codes and confirm EGR-related codes are gone.

- Quick parts buy checklist for ordering before you start
- EGR valve (match year/engine) or cleaning-only supplies if you plan to reuse.
- EGR gasket(s).
- Penetrating oil and EGR cleaner.
- Replacement bolts if any look corroded.

No extra questions.
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