Land Rover Freelander 1997-2006 Workshop Repair Manual

Scope: two sequences — A) small-chip/stone-chip repair, B) full windscreen replacement on a Land Rover Freelander. For each step I give the action (in order) and the theory: why it’s done and how it fixes the fault. Safety: wear eye/hand protection, respirator for adhesives, follow cure times. No extra commentary.

Tools / materials (common): resin repair kit with injector & UV resin, razor blades, compressed air or vacuum, alcohol/isopropyl, glass cleaner, microfibre, suction cups, trim tools, cold-knife/wire or cutting tool for urethane, urethane primer and polyurethane adhesive (OEM-spec), caulking gun, alignment blocks, torque wrench for flange bolts, masking tape, primer for paint/metal, protector for interior, UV lamp (if needed), calibration equipment for ADAS camera if fitted.

A) Stone‑chip repair (small pit or star) — ordered steps with theory
1. Inspect damage and assess suitability.
- Theory: Repairs are only structurally effective when the crack doesn’t reach edge or is small enough; resin restores local compressive strength and optical continuity but won’t reverse edge cracks or long delamination.
2. Clean around chip; remove loose fragments.
- Theory: Contaminants and loose glass prevent resin from wetting and bonding; cleaning exposes fresh glass for capillary action and adhesion.
3. Stabilize crack (if there are tiny radial legs) with clear tape or apply a resin plug to stop stress propagation.
- Theory: Stops moisture and dirt ingress and halts further crack growth by removing cyclic stress concentration at the tip until full injection.
4. Place repair bridge/foot and seal over the chip; attach injector.
- Theory: Creates a sealed chamber and allows controlled vacuum and pressure to force resin into the damage; seals prevent air ingress which would leave voids.
5. Evacuate air from the chip (vacuum) then inject low‑viscosity UV or thermal-curing resin under pressure.
- Theory: Removing trapped air and impurities lets resin fully fill fissures; cured resin restores mechanical continuity, redistributes localized tensile stresses, and bonds to glass walls by adhesion and mechanical interlock.
6. Apply pressure cycles to force resin into hairline fissures; scrape excess resin.
- Theory: Pressure helps resin penetrate micro-cracks that would otherwise remain stress risers; removing excess ensures correct surface contour and optical clarity.
7. Cure resin (UV lamp or natural light) and finish polish.
- Theory: Polymerization converts liquid monomer into solid thermoset, giving mechanical strength and abrasion resistance; polishing restores optical transmission and minimizes stress concentration at the repair edge.
8. Final inspection and documentation.
- Theory: Confirms structural/optical restoration and ensures the repaired area no longer is a crack nucleation site.

B) Full windscreen replacement — ordered steps with theory
1. Disable battery and follow vehicle-specific safety (airbag/sensor precautions).
- Theory: Many modern vehicles have sensors and airbags tied to the windscreen; disconnecting prevents electrical damage and accidental deployment while working.
2. Remove interior trim, rearview mirror, rain/light sensors, and any bonded modules.
- Theory: Clears components that obstruct access and prevents damage; sensors may be bonded to glass and must be transferred/restored for proper function.
3. Protect interior and exterior around the screen; place suction cups on glass.
- Theory: Prevents chip/damage to body trim and provides safe grip to handle the glass.
4. Cut or unseat the old urethane adhesive bead (cold knife, wire) and remove the glass.
- Theory: Windscreens are retained by a continuous polyurethane structural adhesive; cutting it releases the glass. The joint is structural and watertight; removing the glass exposes the bonding flange for prepping.
5. Clean old adhesive from the pinch-weld/painted flange; remove contaminants and surface rust. Mask adjacent paint.
- Theory: Adhesive adheres to a clean, properly prepared metal surface; contaminants or rust prevent molecular adhesion and create leak/weak joints.
6. Apply appropriate primer to the glass perimeter if required and to the vehicle flange where specified.
- Theory: Primers promote chemical bonding by creating a compatible, corrosion-inhibited surface for urethane; they improve wetting and long-term adhesion.
7. Apply OEM-specified polyurethane adhesive in a continuous bead (correct profile and diameter) to the flange or glass per manual.
- Theory: Polyurethane forms a structural, elastic bond that absorbs differential thermal/structural movement, seals against water, and transmits loads (roof crush, airbag deployment forces). A continuous bead prevents point loading and leakage.
8. Set the new windscreen into position, align precisely, and apply inward pressure to seat the glass into the adhesive.
- Theory: Proper seating ensures full wetting of adhesive and avoids air gaps or low spots that would lead to leaks or premature bond failure. Alignment preserves fit with molding and rain sensor geometry.
9. Secure with tape/clamps and allow adhesive to skin/cure per temperature and product specs; do not move vehicle until initial set.
- Theory: Urethane needs time to polymerize (cross-link) to achieve handling and then structural strength; premature loading can shear the bond, cause leaks, or compromise occupant safety in a crash.
10. Reinstall trim, sensors, mirror, and reconnect battery; recalibrate ADAS/rain/light sensors/camera as required.
- Theory: Sensors must be calibrated relative to vehicle axes and glass position; incorrect calibration affects functions like automatic braking, lane assist, rain sensing, and wipers. Reinstall ensures sensor mounts and electrical continuity.
11. Final leak test and visual inspection; road-test if required after full cure.
- Theory: Leak testing verifies continuous seal; road-test checks NVH and sensor operation. Full cure ensures adhesive has reached designed mechanical properties for crash loads.

How each repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Chip repair: Injected resin fills voids, bonds to glass, restores local stiffness and optical continuity, and removes stress risers that would propagate cracks. It is a local structural and cosmetic repair — effective only when damage is limited.
- Full replacement: Removes compromised glass and adhesive and reinstalls a new bonded screen with proper primers and polyurethane adhesive. This re-establishes the designed structural joint, watertight seal, and correct sensor alignment so the vehicle’s crash and sensor systems behave as engineered.

End.
rteeqp73

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